Nice pic. I don't think any of my prints would last for more than 2 seconds against that little fellow, heh heh.I'll always put my Pro1 pictures like this up against anything,
anytime:
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Nice pic. I don't think any of my prints would last for more than 2 seconds against that little fellow, heh heh.I'll always put my Pro1 pictures like this up against anything,
anytime:
Totally agree. They know even less about automobiles.I must
admit that although I like the idea of Consumers Reports, in the
areas that I know something about (audio and photography) they have
little credibility.
In the UK you can be confident that Consumer Magazine reports are honest and objective. However, where they sometimes fall down is that they target the uninformed with simplistic testing and summary's.Consumers Reports does have some findings that make me question
their methodology.
In their defense, they're geared towards consumers, not enthusiasts. Enthusiasts are probably better served by a more specialized publication. Their recommendations are probably good overall for casual hobbyists, but if you get much deeper, you're probably beyond CR's recommendations.admit that although I like the idea of Consumers Reports, in the
areas that I know something about (audio and photography) they have
little credibility.
I like the idea of Consumers Reports, in the
areas that I know something about (audio and photography) they have
little credibility.
Bob
Can not be true.My Minolta A200 has a superb lense and produces near-dSLR images at
ISO50 to ISO100.
Well, I have to take that comment back. I was browsing the reviews on http://www.lesnumeriques.com/ , which seems like a fairly critical review site, and they rate the S3IS lower than the S2IS (three stars vs. two) "Il est plus cher que le S2-IS et pas meilleur"--more expensive than the S2IS, but not better. Noise worse than the S2IS.Consumers Reports does have some findings that make me question
their methodology. For example, they rate the S2IS ahead of the
S3IS on picture (print) quality. This contradicts every review in
the specialist magazines. (The S3 may not have significantly
better image quality than the S2, but it's not worse .)
--I was wondering about the Sony F717 and F828 which have 2/3"
sensors. Are there other P&S cameras that have these larger
sensors, or that get closer to DSLR image quality? I note that
someone compared (very casually) the G7 to one of the Canon DSLRs
and the pix didn't look that far off. What other cameras?
Ominous, did you actually look at the pic I posted? That was an off-hand, quick-shot, and that's a straight-out-of-the-camera JPG, full 8megapixel resolution, not reduced for web from my Minolta A200.Pictures down sampled for the web wont give you the whole story,
but some key factors are noise, sharpness, DoF, contrast, and
dynamic range.
The issue of noise is only at higher ISOs on the nice P&S cameras, e.g. Canon Pro1, Minolta A2/A200, Nikon Coolpix 8800. Hence my original post which indicated near-dSLR (not equal, but NEAR) quality at ISO 50 and 100. Yes, you get more noise starting at 200 and up. You really see the difference on 400 and 800 pics. You would NOT mistake an ISO 800 pic from a P&S for a dSLR.Resolution aside, P&S cameras have big problems with noise, DoF
control, and dynamic range. Often their images have too much
contrast, or too much saturation. Often times there is too much of
an image in focus.
Agreed. That's why I'm buying a Canon Rebel XTi, for the high-speed, high ISO situations that I can't do with my Minolta A200. It's too slow and the sensor is too noisy at those high ISO settings.There are some shots you simply can not take with a P&S, or most of
them, due to physical limitations.
Depends on the lense on the camera. I can get some degree of "background blurring" on my A200. Look at the pic I posted above. I can post more examples of that if you like. Indeed, though, it is usually more incidental and not very easy to intentionally replicate, unless I can choose my distance from the subject (and use a bit of telephoto).Bluring the background is VERY hard with a P&S, unless you are VERY
CLOSE to something rather small.
Agreed, hence above statement regarding high ISO. That is, however, only in reference to moving targets. For stationary objects, I can take pictures in near-darkness with my A200 and see detail impossible to see with the naked eye in crystal clarity with low noise (ISO50-100). Just look at the sample images on dcresource.com in the church in very low light. Sharp as a tack and virtually no noise.low light, no flash, is also another area that a P&S has yet to be
able to do well.
You sure about that? I guess you're referring to the pocket cameras, but any good camera has one. I use an external bounce flash on mine.Or if you want to use a flash, and don't want ugly shadows...you
better not use on board flash...but it is sad that most P&S don't
have a hot shoe.
Well, that would work well for lots of things and lots of shots, even landscapes.So yes, you can say daylight shots at 50 ISO look somewhat
comparable to dslr shots...but that is a rare exception. For a
large majority of shots, the difference is very large.
I didn't realize I was replying to you...so no...I did not see your picture.Ominous, did you actually look at the pic I posted? That was anPictures down sampled for the web wont give you the whole story,
but some key factors are noise, sharpness, DoF, contrast, and
dynamic range.
off-hand, quick-shot, and that's a straight-out-of-the-camera JPG,
full 8megapixel resolution, not reduced for web from my Minolta
A200.
ISO 50/100 is rather useless for anything that moves though...which is very little of what most people photograph.The issue of noise is only at higher ISOs on the nice P&S cameras,Resolution aside, P&S cameras have big problems with noise, DoF
control, and dynamic range. Often their images have too much
contrast, or too much saturation. Often times there is too much of
an image in focus.
e.g. Canon Pro1, Minolta A2/A200, Nikon Coolpix 8800. Hence my
original post which indicated near-dSLR (not equal, but NEAR)
quality at ISO 50 and 100. Yes, you get more noise starting at 200
and up. You really see the difference on 400 and 800 pics. You
would NOT mistake an ISO 800 pic from a P&S for a dSLR.
You get what you pay forAs for the DOF issue, that's simply a matter of what lense is on
the camera. I can get pretty good DOF at the right telephoto range
and aperature with my A200, but definitely nothing as good as with
a dSLR and a prime lense, etc. At the same time, with my A200 I
have 28mm-200mm full manual, high quality lense in very small, very
light package. I would need to carry double the weight and size to
get that in a dSLR and to get a lense that is as-good as the A200,
I will have to spend $500-1000 for lense alone, due to the larger
size required for a dSLR.
Why the need for a telephoto lens? I can blur the background with my 24 MM lens if I wanted to....though the distortions would not make for a flattering image if I was taking a picture of a person.Agreed. That's why I'm buying a Canon Rebel XTi, for theThere are some shots you simply can not take with a P&S, or most of
them, due to physical limitations.
high-speed, high ISO situations that I can't do with my Minolta
A200. It's too slow and the sensor is too noisy at those high ISO
settings.
Depends on the lense on the camera. I can get some degree ofBluring the background is VERY hard with a P&S, unless you are VERY
CLOSE to something rather small.
"background blurring" on my A200. Look at the pic I posted above.
I can post more examples of that if you like. Indeed, though, it
is usually more incidental and not very easy to intentionally
replicate, unless I can choose my distance from the subject (and
use a bit of telephoto).
This is true, but most people wont be taking picture like this very often. But this is something a dslr can do also.Agreed, hence above statement regarding high ISO. That is,low light, no flash, is also another area that a P&S has yet to be
able to do well.
however, only in reference to moving targets. For stationary
objects, I can take pictures in near-darkness with my A200 and see
detail impossible to see with the naked eye in crystal clarity with
low noise (ISO50-100). Just look at the sample images on
dcresource.com in the church in very low light. Sharp as a tack
and virtually no noise.
The small ones don't have them, correct. Though the thought of using a large flash on a P&S camera makes me wonder about how to hold the thing. I feel like my external flash on a 400D makes it an offballance mess.You sure about that? I guess you're referring to the pocketOr if you want to use a flash, and don't want ugly shadows...you
better not use on board flash...but it is sad that most P&S don't
have a hot shoe.
cameras, but any good camera has one. I use an external bounce
flash on mine.
Landscapes and still life...but anytime you are taking a picture of people, odds are you can't get away with 50 or 100 ISO.Well, that would work well for lots of things and lots of shots,So yes, you can say daylight shots at 50 ISO look somewhat
comparable to dslr shots...but that is a rare exception. For a
large majority of shots, the difference is very large.
even landscapes.
????I'm going to a dSLR, but there's some incredible shots I've taken
with my A200 as have others with their A2/A200's and similar higher
end P&S cameras. For many shooters, you can get better results
with them than a dSLR in many situations.
People don't move (much) for posed photographs. I've taken many pics with the ISO manually set to 50 to keep it as clear as possible and had no problems doing so.ISO 50/100 is rather useless for anything that moves though...which
is very little of what most people photograph.
I never suggested otherwise. Though, to some extent, if your limit is under $1,000, you get MORE with a high-end P&S. For instance, the new Sony R1, which would cost $1500+ to duplicate in a dSLR body+lense package.You get what you pay for![]()
Telephoto is about the only way to get a blurred background on a P&S. That was what I was saying. It's possible, but you have to back up from the person and zoom in.Why the need for a telephoto lens? I can blur the background with
my 24 MM lens if I wanted to....though the distortions would not
make for a flattering image if I was taking a picture of a person.
On the contrary, I love natural light interior shots of dark spaces. Churches, specifically. I've also taken night-time shots of a friend's historic home and the results are very cool.This is true, but most people wont be taking picture like this veryAgreed, hence above statement regarding high ISO. That is,
however, only in reference to moving targets. For stationary
objects, I can take pictures in near-darkness with my A200 and see
detail impossible to see with the naked eye in crystal clarity with
low noise (ISO50-100). Just look at the sample images on
dcresource.com in the church in very low light. Sharp as a tack
and virtually no noise.
often. But this is something a dslr can do also.
Somewhat, yeah. The flash I have is roughly the same size as the camera itself. With the bounce, it's still well worth it for flattering indoor pics of family/friends.The small ones don't have them, correct. Though the thought of
using a large flash on a P&S camera makes me wonder about how to
hold the thing. I feel like my external flash on a 400D makes it
an offballance mess.
Indoors, no. Outdoors, all the time.Landscapes and still life...but anytime you are taking a picture of
people, odds are you can't get away with 50 or 100 ISO.
Other than size, weight, and having an all-purpose high quality wide-> telephoto lense built right into it, the main additional benefits I've found are related to the "swivel" LCD and the live preview. When I make adjustments to shutter and aperture, it gives a "preview" of what those changes will do the picture right on the screen (e.g. darkens or lightens based on what changes you make). Further, the "swivel" feature means I can take properly framed candids without anyone knowing I'm snapping pics, I can take pics around a corner, with the camera flat down on the ground, with the camera extended up as far over my head as I can hold it, etc, all perfectly framed pics. For instance, when visiting the zoo, I hold the camera way up over my head on my tip-toes and shoot without having a fence in my way. At a crowded venue, I hold the camera way up over my head and shoot properly framed pictures without people's heads/seats/hats in my way! This was the #1 reason I ruled out a bunch of other high-end P&S cameras back in '04... I wanted that swivel screen and it has been very useful. Even a non-swivel live preview would allow for taking pics off a tri-pod without having to put your head up to the viewfinder, which would be very convenient for taking pics at an event without having to sit in a weird position to get your face up there.What situations?I'm going to a dSLR, but there's some incredible shots I've taken
with my A200 as have others with their A2/A200's and similar higher
end P&S cameras. For many shooters, you can get better results
with them than a dSLR in many situations.
????
Have you looked at Ricoh cameras?However, an image stabilized camera with a
wide angle built in lens (28mm) and image quality as good as the
a620 would be an unbeatable Euro vacation camera.