Which IS mode to use with OMS

[Bobapingu]

I mostly use an OM-1 + 300/4 with sync IS. The OM-1 offers:
S-IS Auto - supposedly automatically determines the pan direction an applies the appropriate IS
S-IS 1 - all directions shake IS - ignores panning and just applies overall IS
S-IS 2 - vertical shake IS - for horizontal panning
S-IS 3 - horizontal shake IS - for vertical panning

I'm thinking of roosting birds in trees and wondering which is best, S-IS Auto or S-IS 1. I've tried both and see no noticeable difference. I'm using S-IS 1 now for no other reason than that it sounds like to most logical for the purpose.

Just wondering what experiences other have had with choice of IS settings.

 

[lunic]

I mostly use an OM-1 + 300/4 with sync IS. The OM-1 offers:
S-IS Auto - supposedly automatically determines the pan direction an applies the appropriate IS
S-IS 1 - all directions shake IS - ignores panning and just applies overall IS
S-IS 2 - vertical shake IS - for horizontal panning
S-IS 3 - horizontal shake IS - for vertical panning

I'm thinking of roosting birds in trees and wondering which is best, S-IS Auto or S-IS 1. I've tried both and see no noticeable difference. I'm using S-IS 1 now for no other reason than that it sounds like to most logical for the purpose.

Just wondering what experiences other have had with choice of IS settings.

Out of habit, I’ve always used IS 1, but if IS Auto can properly detect panning as intended, I don’t see any reason not to use Auto.

 

[jjbinx]

hello Bob,

with my E-M1III I use the Auto setting for all normal stills and video situations where I’m holding the camera.

if the camera is on a tripod or my Astro EQ mount I set it to OFF.

I don’t use the E-M1III for wildlife however I would expect Auto to be the best setting in situations where your static subject - animal or perched bird - suddenly took off and you started to pan to keep it in frame

 

[Will Rose]

When using long focal lengths (like 300mm) I've found IS1 somewhat improves the percentage of sharp images (perhaps 20-30% more) in circumstances like you describe.

Assuming you are in continuous shooting mode, what I’ve found makes a bigger difference with those focal lengths is setting Image Stabilizer to IS Priority instead of FPS Priority, although you pay a huge penalty in fps. The setting has no effect in single shot mode.

When shooting at those focal lengths, I will often shoot a burst, even at a stationary target like you describe, to maximize chances of getting a sharp image.

Generally the IS-Auto mode is very good at detecting panning and doing the right thing, but IS1 locks it down just a bit tighter.

I hope this helps…

 

[Sam Bennett]

Assuming you are in continuous shooting mode, what I’ve found makes a bigger difference with those focal lengths is setting Image Stabilizer to IS Priority instead of FPS Priority, although you pay a huge penalty in fps. The setting has no effect in single shot mode.

I've recently become a user of this setting. It's a good way for the camera to kinda "call out" that you're beyond it's limits of compensation. Releasing from half-press and re-engaging quickly usually gets things back on track. Coupling this with "Handheld Assist" can help you get out ahead of those problems as well.

 

[Bobapingu]

When using long focal lengths (like 300mm) I've found IS1 somewhat improves the percentage of sharp images (perhaps 20-30% more) in circumstances like you describe.

Assuming you are in continuous shooting mode, what I’ve found makes a bigger difference with those focal lengths is setting Image Stabilizer to IS Priority instead of FPS Priority, although you pay a huge penalty in fps. The setting has no effect in single shot mode.

When shooting at those focal lengths, I will often shoot a burst, even at a stationary target like you describe, to maximize chances of getting a sharp image.

Generally the IS-Auto mode is very good at detecting panning and doing the right thing, but IS1 locks it down just a bit tighter.

I hope this helps…

It certainly does. Thanks.

I shoot in C-AF where I can but where I live, the AF is often distracted by foliage so I default to S-AF-MF and small or single point. Gotta remember not to hold the focus ring until the AF is close