Which focus points do you use? (Or, do you focus and recompose?)

[Alleg1]

I mainly use the centre point, though I agree it's not foolproof in some circumstances, because it seems simpler than selecting a specific point..then perhaps forgetting to alter it again.

As far as leaving it on automatic,(or dynamic ) I find there are occasions where the wrong point is used if the camera is left to its own devices.

 

[JulesJ]

Centre point only.

 

[Dave Lively]

I have also found letting the camera pick the focus point results in a lot of OOF shots.

When I used a SLR I almost always used the center point and recomposed. After switching to a mirrorless camera that has changed some. I still use the center point and recompose as the default choice. But it is so easy to select the focus point I want by touching the screen I do that much more often than when I used a SLR. Mirrorless cameras also allow the use of face detection. While many enthusiasts tend to look down their noses at those of us that use this feature letting the camera find and focus on people is a lot quicker than trying to do so manually.

 

[mosswings]

jonathanj wrote:

Interesting, not sure what cameras everyone is using, but on mine there is an AEL button that can be set to: AE lock, AF lock, AF+AE lock, or AE hold. (I use the last one, for ensuring every shot in a stitched panorama is equally exposed.)

When I focus and recompose normally, I do so by half-pressing the shutter and holding it half-pressed while I recompose. This is very quick, but as pointed out means the exposure is locked to the initial composition. I hadn't really paid much attention to this before...

I tested and if I set the AEL button to AF lock, then half press the shutter on the subject, press AF lock, recompose, then the exposure correctly changes. This is a few more steps, but still a bit faster than moving the AF point (still less than a second, I think).

Interesting...and you confirmed that the exposure changed to the same value as when you physically moved the focus point in the frame?

Different manufacturers implement different preferred control schema and metering complexities. On my Nikon, for example, the evaluative metering system uses a 420 segment color-sensitive metering sensor that is tied to the distance readout from the AF system. More recent generations use upwards of 2000 segments. The AE/AF lock button has all the functions you mention for yours, plus one more that's part of the Nikon pro ergonomy: AF-on. In the pro models this function is considered so important as to be given its own separate button. In the lower models this button is often never used.

(AF-on is used in conjunction with setting the camera to continuous-AF and release-priority. It decouples AF initiation from the shutter half-press and permits moving between focus-and-reframe {still with the exposure-coupling problem, though}, focus-lock, and manual focus without switching AF-modes explicitly, something that sports shooters like)

In my camera, if I were to do what you tried in yours, I would not get the desired result, because the focus point did not stay on the subject. There IS an AF mode that simplifies matters on Nikons and directly addresses the problem of the focus-and-composer - 3D tracking. This mode locks focus starting on the focus point you chose, then memorizes the color patterns of the subject under the focus point and in the focus points around the initial one, then maintains that relationship as you recompose or if the subject moves. This guarantees that the focus point and exposure evaluations are always synchronized. It also requires a dense AF array and a fast AF processor to work well. On my camera with only 11 focus points, it's not that great. On the current generation of cameras with 39 and with the pro models' 51, it works very well.

 

[ShotFromTheSidewalk]

Dave Lively wrote:

I have also found letting the camera pick the focus point results in a lot of OOF shots.

When I used a SLR I almost always used the center point and recomposed. After switching to a mirrorless camera that has changed some. I still use the center point and recompose as the default choice. But it is so easy to select the focus point I want by touching the screen I do that much more often than when I used a SLR. Mirrorless cameras also allow the use of face detection. While many enthusiasts tend to look down their noses at those of us that use this feature letting the camera find and focus on people is a lot quicker than trying to do so manually.

face detection is not a feature specific to mirrorless cameras. when i use my mirrorless, i seldom use the center area (there is no "point" there anyway). If I know where my subject is coming from or will be, i'll move the focus point over to that side ahead of time (i.e.: i try to set up by default for rulle of thirds). if i don't, i'll use the center area and recompose or crop later.


enthusiasts don't look down their nose at people using face detect just because it's a noob habit. dslrs in general have poor live view so face detect doesn't work well for moving subjects and it doesn't really apply when usiing normal PDAF (sony is special in this regard).

mirrorless have their pros and cons. focussing using CDAF is very different from PDAF. the "touch to focus" concept is a great example.

 

[jonathanj]

mosswings wrote:

jonathanj wrote:

Interesting, not sure what cameras everyone is using, but on mine there is an AEL button that can be set to: AE lock, AF lock, AF+AE lock, or AE hold. (I use the last one, for ensuring every shot in a stitched panorama is equally exposed.)

When I focus and recompose normally, I do so by half-pressing the shutter and holding it half-pressed while I recompose. This is very quick, but as pointed out means the exposure is locked to the initial composition. I hadn't really paid much attention to this before...

I tested and if I set the AEL button to AF lock, then half press the shutter on the subject, press AF lock, recompose, then the exposure correctly changes. This is a few more steps, but still a bit faster than moving the AF point (still less than a second, I think).

Interesting...and you confirmed that the exposure changed to the same value as when you physically moved the focus point in the frame?

Yes, although it wasn't *exactly* the same, because physically moving the camera gave me a different framing and different background from just moving the focus point. I had metering set to center weighted. If I change this to spot, I get the same values. (This is with the metering point and focus point linked. I've just discovered it's possible to decouple the spot metering from the AF point, but I can't move the spot metering point from the center of the fame... although I'm not sure why I'd ever want to focus on one side of the frame and meter from the other...)

Different manufacturers implement different preferred control schema and metering complexities. On my Nikon, for example, the evaluative metering system uses a 420 segment color-sensitive metering sensor that is tied to the distance readout from the AF system. More recent generations use upwards of 2000 segments. The AE/AF lock button has all the functions you mention for yours, plus one more that's part of the Nikon pro ergonomy: AF-on. In the pro models this function is considered so important as to be given its own separate button. In the lower models this button is often never used.

(AF-on is used in conjunction with setting the camera to continuous-AF and release-priority. It decouples AF initiation from the shutter half-press and permits moving between focus-and-reframe {still with the exposure-coupling problem, though}, focus-lock, and manual focus without switching AF-modes explicitly, something that sports shooters like)

Ah, is this the thing some people call back button focusing? Now I think I understand what they were talking about! But I"m surprised this does not allow you to separate exposure from focusing, much as I like my camera, I'd be surprised if Samsung came up with a totally unique feature! I wonder where they "borrowed" it from?

In my camera, if I were to do what you tried in yours, I would not get the desired result, because the focus point did not stay on the subject. There IS an AF mode that simplifies matters on Nikons and directly addresses the problem of the focus-and-composer - 3D tracking. This mode locks focus starting on the focus point you chose, then memorizes the color patterns of the subject under the focus point and in the focus points around the initial one, then maintains that relationship as you recompose or if the subject moves. This guarantees that the focus point and exposure evaluations are always synchronized. It also requires a dense AF array and a fast AF processor to work well. On my camera with only 11 focus points, it's not that great. On the current generation of cameras with 39 and with the pro models' 51, it works very well.

That makes a lot of sense, and I guess I understand more now why pro sports photographers want cameras with 51 focusing points...

 

[Osvaldo Cristo]

It depends of the particular situation I am facing when making my shots. Most of the time I am using all AF points:

• For action shots (including wildlife) I use AFC and all 51 focus points from my Nikon D300S will be used, usually combined with Dynamic AF 9 (or 21) points
• For landscape shots (usually with the camera mounted on my tripod) I use AFS and all points are also used at single point AF mode. Sometimes I went to manual focus for close-ups and macrophotography
• For travel usually I use mostly the central focus point at AFS and single point AF mode for all static or near-static subjects. For non-static subjects I use the same technique for "action shots".

I really miss more AF points, mainly closer to the border region of the frame as all AF points in my camera are very clustered into the central region of the frame.

Regards,

 

[jonrobertp]

If one only uses the centre point, then why not buy a cam that features mostly that...like the 6D. Mostly that. The best Af systems don't hinder you by only putting weak sensors at the sides. Whats the point of having lots of single sensors that don't read well in low contrast or low light...when they are very unreliable ? Seems that ppl are hooked into buying them...and I know it did a bit of a # on me too. (before I found out what they did not do very well).

If I am forced to use only the cross sensor in the center...then it causes one to miss shots...ppl on stage don't stand still ...and focusing on the belly is not good for the face at 2.8.

Next cam...will need to have better top/bottom/side cross sensors....or maybe I've simply been buying cams that were too cheap, and meant for amateurs. Live and learn, as they say.

 

[jonrobertp]

AllMankind wrote:

Mjankor wrote:

Relates to angle of view too.

In my experience, for macro it's critical. For everything else, it's a fairly minimal issue.

Exactly.

I am shooting with a Nikon D800E and all I ever use is the center AF point.

Focus and recompose is far faster than futzing with AF points while trying to capture an image, especially is the subject is in motion.

I have zero issues with OOF images.

I don't shoot marcos, but if I did, I would not use focus and recompose. It is only at quite short distances that focus errors are an issue. Anything beyond about 1 meter, especially if NOT shooting wide open, is NOT an issue.

Zero oofs with only the centre point ? Sorry, I doubt that, unless our shooting subjects is very different. If you have a performer on stage, dim light, and you are at the front side, 45 degrees, and you focus only on the face, then you have tons of empty head space. Focus only on the belt, and your face is out of focus. There is no time to recompose on a moving singer most of the time.

So, what gives ?

 

[Teila Day]

Hank3152 wrote:

With some lenses (mostly fast wide-angles) there's a possible problem from focusing and then re-composing: as you re-compose, what you originally focused on will no longer be on the plane of focus.

With longer lenses, this is rarely much of a problem, if you're shooting with something like a 30/1.4 on full frame, your subject could be quite a ways out of focus by the time you compose the picture.





This makes the biggest difference when there's a fairly large angle between where you focused and where you shoot. The slower the lens, the more depth of field you have to cover the discrepancy.

--
Regards,
Hank
http://www.dpreview.com/galleries/638311471/photos/17792/night-launch

Nice diagram Hank.

I think this is what people should think in their head when they recompose or at least be cognizant of what's going on.

I find it easy to imagine a rod sticking out of the lens nearly touching my subject; there's a flat panel attached to the end of the rod (focus plane). When I move the camera left or right, up or down, the focus plane moves... I imagine what depth of field I need to give me "wiggle room" for composition, but also shallow enough to isolate the subject from horrid backgrounds.

Most of the time I'm able to use a side focus point, mindful of how much "depth" I have to work with.

--
Teila K. Day

Getting Started

 

[Draek]

Center point for most subjects, none for the small few where recomposing would change the focus plane significantly---switching to MF and doing it myself is much faster than dealing with those annoying blinky lights back and forth.

Metering issues? in any situation where recomposing could potentially be a problem, I'll be in Manual mode right from the start.

 

[Dan99A]

I just use the middle focus point or for landscaps used the lower focus points to focus a 1/3rd into the frame.

Loading…

www.danielakininphotography.com

 

[JulesJ]

frank-in-toronto wrote:

Dave Lively wrote:

I have also found letting the camera pick the focus point results in a lot of OOF shots.

When I used a SLR I almost always used the center point and recomposed. After switching to a mirrorless camera that has changed some. I still use the center point and recompose as the default choice. But it is so easy to select the focus point I want by touching the screen I do that much more often than when I used a SLR. Mirrorless cameras also allow the use of face detection. While many enthusiasts tend to look down their noses at those of us that use this feature letting the camera find and focus on people is a lot quicker than trying to do so manually.

face detection is not a feature specific to mirrorless cameras. when i use my mirrorless, i seldom use the center area (there is no "point" there anyway). If I know where my subject is coming from or will be, i'll move the focus point over to that side ahead of time

How lucky you are to be able to do that. It must take ages inbetween each shot. How on earth could you take shots a say a garden party of lots of friends having to reset your focus every shot.

(i.e.: i try to set up by default for rulle of thirds). if i don't, i'll use the center area and recompose or crop later.

enthusiasts don't look down their nose at people using face detect just because it's a noob habit. dslrs in general have poor live view so face detect doesn't work well for moving subjects and it doesn't really apply when usiing normal PDAF (sony is special in this regard).

mirrorless have their pros and cons. focussing using CDAF is very different from PDAF. the "touch to focus" concept is a great example.

 

[Martin.au]

JulesJ wrote:

frank-in-toronto wrote:

Dave Lively wrote:

I have also found letting the camera pick the focus point results in a lot of OOF shots.

When I used a SLR I almost always used the center point and recomposed. After switching to a mirrorless camera that has changed some. I still use the center point and recompose as the default choice. But it is so easy to select the focus point I want by touching the screen I do that much more often than when I used a SLR. Mirrorless cameras also allow the use of face detection. While many enthusiasts tend to look down their noses at those of us that use this feature letting the camera find and focus on people is a lot quicker than trying to do so manually.

face detection is not a feature specific to mirrorless cameras. when i use my mirrorless, i seldom use the center area (there is no "point" there anyway). If I know where my subject is coming from or will be, i'll move the focus point over to that side ahead of time

How lucky you are to be able to do that. It must take ages inbetween each shot. How on earth could you take shots a say a garden party of lots of friends having to reset your focus every shot.

(i.e.: i try to set up by default for rulle of thirds). if i don't, i'll use the center area and recompose or crop later.

enthusiasts don't look down their nose at people using face detect just because it's a noob habit. dslrs in general have poor live view so face detect doesn't work well for moving subjects and it doesn't really apply when usiing normal PDAF (sony is special in this regard).

mirrorless have their pros and cons. focussing using CDAF is very different from PDAF. the "touch to focus" concept is a great example.

I'd turn the touch screen on and use tap to shoot. Also surprisingly useful for macros.

 

[tecnoworld]

I have a nx200, so basically the same camera. If I have time, I move the focus point where I prefer, otherwise I focus in the center and recompose.




Consider also that with 20Mpixel, you have room for cropping in pp.

 

[Mark_A]

I focus and recompose using the centre focus point. [nt]

Mark

 

[JulesJ]

Mjankor wrote:

JulesJ wrote:

frank-in-toronto wrote:

Dave Lively wrote:

I have also found letting the camera pick the focus point results in a lot of OOF shots.

When I used a SLR I almost always used the center point and recomposed. After switching to a mirrorless camera that has changed some. I still use the center point and recompose as the default choice. But it is so easy to select the focus point I want by touching the screen I do that much more often than when I used a SLR. Mirrorless cameras also allow the use of face detection. While many enthusiasts tend to look down their noses at those of us that use this feature letting the camera find and focus on people is a lot quicker than trying to do so manually.

face detection is not a feature specific to mirrorless cameras. when i use my mirrorless, i seldom use the center area (there is no "point" there anyway). If I know where my subject is coming from or will be, i'll move the focus point over to that side ahead of time

How lucky you are to be able to do that. It must take ages inbetween each shot. How on earth could you take shots a say a garden party of lots of friends having to reset your focus every shot.

(i.e.: i try to set up by default for rulle of thirds). if i don't, i'll use the center area and recompose or crop later.

enthusiasts don't look down their nose at people using face detect just because it's a noob habit. dslrs in general have poor live view so face detect doesn't work well for moving subjects and it doesn't really apply when usiing normal PDAF (sony is special in this regard).

mirrorless have their pros and cons. focussing using CDAF is very different from PDAF. the "touch to focus" concept is a great example.

I'd turn the touch screen on and use tap to shoot. Also surprisingly useful for macros.

Ah, my dslr doesn't have that facility. Also it has a viewfinder.

 

[JulesJ]

Osvaldo Cristo wrote:

It depends of the particular situation I am facing when making my shots. Most of the time I am using all AF points:

• For action shots (including wildlife) I use AFC and all 51 focus points from my Nikon D300S will be used, usually combined with Dynamic AF 9 (or 21) points
• For landscape shots (usually with the camera mounted on my tripod) I use AFS and all points are also used at single point AF mode. Sometimes I went to manual focus for close-ups and macrophotography
• .
• For travel usually I use mostly the central focus point at AFS and single point AF mode for all static or near-static subjects. For non-static subjects I use the same technique for "action shots".

I really miss more AF points, mainly closer to the border region of the frame as all AF points in my camera are very clustered into the central region of the frame.

Regards,

 

[JulesJ]

jonrobertp wrote:

If one only uses the centre point, then why not buy a cam that features mostly that...like the 6D. Mostly that. The best Af systems don't hinder you by only putting weak sensors at the sides. Whats the point of having lots of single sensors that don't read well in low contrast or low light...when they are very unreliable ? Seems that ppl are hooked into buying them...and I know it did a bit of a # on me too. (before I found out what they did not do very well).

If I am forced to use only the cross sensor in the center...then it causes one to miss shots...ppl on stage don't stand still ...and focusing on the belly is not good for the face at 2.8.

Next cam...will need to have better top/bottom/side cross sensors....or maybe I've simply been buying cams that were too cheap, and meant for amateurs. Live and learn, as they say.

Why have many sensors at all when there is only ever one optimum plane that you want to focus on in your picture? What am I missing?

 

[JulesJ]

Dan99A wrote:

I just use the middle focus point or for landscaps used the lower focus points to focus a 1/3rd into the frame.

http://www.danielakininphotography.com

Why would you anything but MF for landscapes. You have the camera on a tripod right? you look through the lens , or at your screen and focus for maximum depth of field. Using AF might achieve that, it might not. To me there is no question as what to use.