Which Exposure Mode Do You Use and Why?

Modern still photography cameras runneth over with a wide range of exposure modes and customizable buttons that can do just about everything...except take your dog for a walk :)

Among the most commonly asked questions in the DPR forums is, in a nutshell, "What settings do you use with this camera to get this shot?" I'm generalizing to not call attention to any particular brand or model, but I hope you're taking my point. There's a lot of interest in the larger photography community in hearing what settings other photographers use to make the photo they envision.

I'm starting this thread in the interest of creating a space where folks can share which exposure mode(s) and settings they use, and how those settings choices help them come home with "the shot," but without sparking a "this mode is best" flamewar. What I ask of all participants and contributors is that we adopt an attitude that every exposure mode - fully automatic, program, aperture priority, shutter priority, manual with auto ISO, full manual - exists for a reason. The reason is that, depending on an individual photographer's interests, needs, and where they are on this path of visual storytelling, every one of those modes has its place. So, while a particular exposure mode may be a great fit for one person and possibly for others of a similar mindset, that doesn't exclude other modes being a better fit for photographers who take a different approach to the image-making process.

In short, let's share what works for us, as individuals, while allowing room for others to share what works for them. If we do that, folks who come to DPR looking for guidance on how to use these incredibly complex pieces of technology to make a good photo will find an approach that resonates with them. And given that no one approach is going to appeal to all other photographers, let's leave room for others to share different approaches.

OK, with that said, I'm going to attempt to model what I've asked of all of you.

I currently shoot full manual and have been for about four years. When I started doing digital photography, I probably spent at least a few months shooting in full auto with my Nikon D70. I wasn't new to photography - I'd shot film for about a decade before moving to digital - but I think I enjoyed being able to focus solely on composition while relying on the camera to choose the settings.

I did a lot of landscape photography in those early years. I was also an active backpacker and travel photographer. Eventually, the creative voice inside me said, "Hey, rather than let the camera have all the creative fun, let's become more involved in setting selection and have some fun, ourselves."

I experimented with different exposure modes. I know I tried shutter priority and aperture priority. I also did quite a bit of exposure bracketing for a few years when I was into high dynamic range (HDR) photography.

Along the way, I upgraded from the D70 to a Nikon D90. About nine years ago, I upgraded to a full-frame Nikon D600 and, for whatever reason, that move opened a series of doors for me. I started photographing local college football, basketball, volleyball, and soccer. I started doing portrait photography. I was still doing landscape work but the other genres were taking up more of my time.

It was about this time that I started shooting in manual plus auto ISO for the college games and full manual for the flash portrait shoots I was doing. I also started feeling frustrated by having to remember which exposure mode and custom settings I'd been using the day before so that I could reset the camera to a different mode for the photography I wanted to do the next day. I didn't like changing between exposure modes.

About four years ago, I upgraded from my full-frame body to an APS-C Nikon D500 for the wildlife and bird photography I was doing. This was a relatively new interest for me. (I'll spare you the story of how I got into birds & animals.) When I made that equipment upgrade, I also decided to give something a try: shoot full manual for everything. I've not turned back.

To reiterate, this is my journey and I'm under no illusion that everybody would find joy & happiness shooting full manual. It works for me and, if I'm correct in thinking that I'm not so different from others, it may be a good fit for a few others. But I fully understand and respect that other photographers find success using a different workflow. That's the point of this thread, after all: to share exposure modes and settings others may decide to try.

I shoot full manual because it simplifies things for me. I'm often working in low light so I keep the long lens I use (Nikkor 200-500mm f/5.6E) wide open. I do this for two reasons. It allows the maximum amount of light to reach the sensor and it creates a photo having a shallow depth of field. The abundance flight maximizes exposure (and image quality) while the shallow depth of field creates separation between the subject and the background.

I use a default shutter speed of 1/2000 for birds in-flight (to freeze movement) and 1/500 for perched birds or grazing wildlife. But those settings can vary across a wide range.

When out getting set for wildlife before sunrise, my settings are f/5.6, 1/30, ISO 6400 and a white balance setting of 10000K. Yes, I also manually select white balance. I do that, not because it improves image quality, but because it keeps me engaged in the shoot while I'm waiting for critters to arrive on the scene. The fact that shooting full manual requires me to be more mindful of lighting conditions and camera settings gives me something to do between photo ops. It keeps me from getting bored :)

As the morning light brightens, I'm keeping shutter speed at 1/30 while lowering ISO from 6400 to 1600. Simultaneously, I'm adjusting the white balance from 10000 to 7200, to 6200. By lowering ISO first before increasing shutter speed, I'm giving priority to delivering a deeper exposure to the camera sensor. I shoot raw so, truly, there's little benefit to manually adjusting white balance other than it keeps me engaged in the shoot. Staying aware of the environment is a plus for me. It requires me to be more aware of the evolving lighting conditions and the settings adjustments I make keep me ready for the next photo op.

After sunrise, it may take only 15-minutes or so to go from f/5.6, 1/30, ISO 1600, 7000K to f/5.6, 1/100, ISO 400, 5300K. By keeping pace with the changing lighting, I'm aware of any activity in the meadow or forest and am ready for the next animal to show up.

By 7:30 am, I'm packing up my gear to head to a new location; a place where birds may be getting active. Once there, I'm adjusting my settings. I'm still in full manual, still shooting with the lens wide open, but am now at between 1/12000 and 1/1250 in shutter speed. Shutter speed choice depends on how clear or cloudy the sky is. Clouds act as a giant soft box, which makes for a flattering light on a subject, but also knocks down the brightness of the scene. Under clear sky conditions, I can be at f/5.6, 1/2000, ISO 400, 5300K. Depending on the density of the cloud cover, I may be at f/5.6, 1/1250, ISO 1600, 7200K, or something in-between.

While scanning the area for approaching birds, I may notice a patch of clouds obscuring the Sun or a short break in the clouds allowing sunlight to paint the scene. Instinctively, I'll adjust shutter speed and/or ISO to compensate. I don't even have to look at a display. I just count the number of clicks and I know what the new setting is.

As mentioned previously, it's an approach that keeps me engaged in the shoot and requires that I'm paying attention to the environment. And if I'm being honest, I do wildlife and bird photography as much for the experience of being out in nature as for the joy of making a good photo. So, an exposure mode that keeps me engaged with and observing a beautiful natural setting, is a definite plus for me.

Which mode(s) do you use and why? What about your photographic approach brings you joy?
I use my Z 6's Highlight-Weighted matrix mode, all the time in daylight situations. It preserves highlights at the expense of a stop or so of headroom, but the so-called ISO invariance of the Z 6 lets me pull up the shadows nicely in most situations. This bring me so much more joy than the ETTR pet tricks... :D

When the scene is evenly lit I'll fall back to Matrix mode. This is recent, I was using highlight-weighted all the time but figured for family snaps indoors I was having to do too much post-processing...
 
Thank you for sharing your workflow :)
 
I only shoot jpeg so I rely on some automation. If I am shooting something moving, I use shutter preferred, if I am shooting things not moving I use aperture preferred. If the light is variable and the camera allows, I will use auto ISO. If I am using on camera flash I will set the camera to manual so that I can set shutter speed and aperture where I want it and let the flash adjust automatically.

Regards, Paul
Lili's Dad
WSSA Member #450
 
Too much to type. Simple answer; depends on what I'm shooting. Controlled environment; manual. Quickly changing, AV or manual with auto ISO.

What I would tell someone asking about settings is to go out and shoot in all the modes you can come up with and see which is best for you. The way I shoot may be a non starter for someone else.

David
 
It depends what I am doing ..

When I have time I like to shoot M, spot exposure and take my time metering around the scene deciding what exposure I want.

When I am photographing moving vehicles I like to use S mode and often set it to 1/125 to permit some blurring (wheels and background) due to motion. Matrix metering often. Often when I have some keepers in the bag I will slow down my shutter speed even more even knowing that my keeper rate will go down.

When I am shooting portraits I often select A mode and perhaps f2 for a nice background blur, often I will use matrix metering here.

Just walking about taking photos generally, I will often shoot P mode and matrix, this is letting the camera make a lot of the decisions, leaving me to concentrate more on composition.

So those are times when I will use P A S M modes and spot and matrix metering. I don't often use centre weighted metering.

Mark_A
 
There are a few newer peeps around the forms and there are some questions that I never saw. Repeating a question can mean someone else will see it for the first time :)

This is something I have been wondering as I explore the different modes on my camera. With an IR conversion they give surprisingly different results. I haven't used full manual yet, still trying to work out how to get there. I swear the camera is always secretly adjusting something I never thought of.
 
There are a few newer peeps around the forms and there are some questions that I never saw. Repeating a question can mean someone else will see it for the first time :)

This is something I have been wondering as I explore the different modes on my camera. With an IR conversion they give surprisingly different results. I haven't used full manual yet, still trying to work out how to get there. I swear the camera is always secretly adjusting something I never thought of.
Depending on the mode, indeed. Nikon matrix mode is based on training from thousands of photographs to pick a single aperture and shutter speed for an exposure, so what you get scene-to-scene can sometimes be hard to gauge. An IR conversion literally scrapes away some foundational assumptions upon which the algorithm was trained, so IMHO I'd probably put that mode aside for that situation.

Even the more-straightforward modes will be affected by the lack of the three bandpass filters. However, the change in behavior should be more of a solid bias that can eventually be divined with a few well-structured test shots.
 
I also manually select white balance.
Why don't you just shoot Raw and worry about WB in Post? The WB of a scene can change quite a lot from one shot to another, and very difficult to adjust properly on an uncalibrated camera display.
As longggg... as my post was, it's not surprising you - probably most folks - didn't get this far,
I did.
but the reason I manually select WB is it's something that keeps me engaged in the shoot.
I see.
There's a lot of down time in the photograhy I do and taking the full manual approach (including WB selection) helps keep me actively paying attention to the scene.
Thanks for the explanation. I don't have that problem staying engaged.

Also, I'm curious, what's the benefit (to the quality of the photograph, not to your engagement) of adjusting WB when you are shooting? The only reason I can think of is that you shoot exclusively JPGs and don't keep Raws.
 
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Manual most often for max control. Goes along w/manual focus. I chimp, shoot raw and avoid tossing the camera in the lake because I dis agreed with the company engineers' design choices. If I screw something up it's all on me.
 
(If you use certain brands you'll have to use google translate to see what I mean.)

I started photography with a camera with no meter, so I got accustomed to guessing at exposure from the type of light source.

I mostly use aperture preferred and auto-ISO and when I select an aperture I have an idea that ISO and shutter will be reasonable. When photographing birds or some sports with a long lens I want to push the limits of shutter and aperture so I use M. I'm not saying I'm on a different level and using calibrated eyeballs to set exposure, I use auto-ISO for this too.
 
I wish this had been a poll so it would be easy to keep score. I would not have guessed that with the sophistication of today's equipment and metering plus the high level of gear used by most in these forums that more than a very small minority would be still using manual for exposure mode. Just goes to show how little of this modern tech is really needed or used among this group of photography enthusiasts.

I personally really love the accuracy provided by the metering and exposure automation in today's equipment and would not want to go back to the old school manual exposure methods of the past. My success ratio is much higher now than it was in the old days of manual only exposure.
 
Thanks for sharing your approach, Paul.
 
Thanks, David, for adding your approach and sharing some advice.
 
I also manually select white balance.
Why don't you just shoot Raw and worry about WB in Post? The WB of a scene can change quite a lot from one shot to another, and very difficult to adjust properly on an uncalibrated camera display.
As longggg... as my post was, it's not surprising you - probably most folks - didn't get this far,
I did.
but the reason I manually select WB is it's something that keeps me engaged in the shoot.
I see.
There's a lot of down time in the photograhy I do and taking the full manual approach (including WB selection) helps keep me actively paying attention to the scene.
Thanks for the explanation. I don't have that problem staying engaged.

Also, I'm curious, what's the benefit (to the quality of the photograph, not to your engagement) of adjusting WB when you are shooting? The only reason I can think of is that you shoot exclusively JPGs and don't keep Raws.
I shoot and edit raw.
 
Thanks for walking us through your process, Mark :)
 
Thanks for the contribution and I'm glad you've not not lost any kit in the lake ;)
 
Thanks for sharing your workflow.
 
That version indicated 17.7% using manual with most using some form of auto. I thought that this thread seemed to indicate the majority using manual. I may be mistaken, as I did not try to count how many indicated which. Just thought that to be the case. That number is easier to comprehend. As I said, no way would I want to go back to manual, my cameras are way better at judging proper exposure than I ever was. Way back when film slr cameras got to the point of having through the lens metering is when I started accepting that they were better at it than I was. And today's equipment is way better than back then.
 
Dear friend, IMHO Aperture or Shutter Pirority modes are indeed sort of semi auto or semi manual shooting mode.

I was principlally shooting in M mode majority of time in the good old film days, the earliest few years were manual camera only and despite there were A/S modes on later models, still a happy M shooter.

When I moved to digital, starting with a compact (wanted to change from slr), which were primitive mirrorlesses. The Live View caused me to think, when I can do see-to-adjust exposure setting according to the LV and real time histogram, why not tried A or S, let the camera to suggest the corresponding setting for faster start. If the LV will not look good to me, can adjust EC. Easy and simple. It is actually sort of M mode speeding up operation. In case of M, set f/stop, set SS and set ISO until a 0ev metering, I would have to do the same to re-adust the setting if the preview will not look right to me.

Since then, move to A or S a lot more and now, principally using A or S.
 

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