When is shallow DOF too shallow to be useful?

DavidMillier

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I've been playing around with my Samyang 85mm f/1.4 lens converted from Sony E to GF using a 3D printed adaptor.

The lens covers the 44x33 beautifully wide open. In 35mm terms, on a GFX body this gives you the field of view of a 70mm lens and a depth of field of f/1.0.

I went for a walk around the block where I live and took some snaps wide open. Here's 3 examples:



c84f107b0b104f309c017cdb56cdac69.jpg



6bcf10758f6640fdb340a471e4e30063.jpg







976a360b1a9f41e1bb8461cf0411c966.jpg

The depth of field on here is tiny, just a sliver. Frankly, what use is this narrow depth of field - 99% of each image is out of focus? Is there something this could be useful for?

Answers on a postcard...



--
2024: Awarded Royal Photographic Society LRPS Distinction
Photo of the day: https://www.whisperingcat.co.uk/wp/photo-of-the-day-2025/
Website: https://www.whisperingcat.co.uk/wp/
DPReview gallery: https://www.dpreview.com/galleries/0286305481
Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidmillier/ (very old!)
 
You get background blur for larger subjects you usually don't get that much.
 
There's a lot of toneh in your photos... I just learned that term from this video and I'm still laughing:
 
The depth of field on here is tiny, just a sliver. Frankly, what use is this narrow depth of field - 99% of each image is out of focus? Is there something this could be useful for?

Answers on a postcard...
Maybe the answer is a postcard. Nice and flat.
 
I've been playing around with my Samyang 85mm f/1.4 lens converted from Sony E to GF using a 3D printed adaptor.

The lens covers the 44x33 beautifully wide open. In 35mm terms, on a GFX body this gives you the field of view of a 70mm lens and a depth of field of f/1.0.

I went for a walk around the block where I live and took some snaps wide open. Here's 3 examples:

c84f107b0b104f309c017cdb56cdac69.jpg

6bcf10758f6640fdb340a471e4e30063.jpg

976a360b1a9f41e1bb8461cf0411c966.jpg

The depth of field on here is tiny, just a sliver. Frankly, what use is this narrow depth of field - 99% of each image is out of focus? Is there something this could be useful for?

Answers on a postcard...
As Duke Ellington said, regarding the "jazz music" he and fellow musicians were inventing, violating all the "rules" of classic music harmony and taste, "If it sounds good it is good."

But it took opening one's perceptions and being willing to hear the magic back then.

What do you think?

Do you like any of these images?

I think the red one is delicious!

A lens/camera combo for just any kind of shooting? Well, no.

But a gem under the right circumstances? If you've got the eye, you betcha!

--
Rich
"That's like, just your opinion, man." ;-)
 
5bfcfca3110d4665abb08066461cbbcc.jpg

Freshly-installed (raw wood) cedar fence in the rain the following day.

Nikkor 50mm 1.4, wide open on GFX 100S. I would have used that 85/1.4 if I had it in a heartbeat.

--
Rich
"That's like, just your opinion, man." ;-)
 
I've been playing around with my Samyang 85mm f/1.4 lens converted from Sony E to GF using a 3D printed adaptor.
Why do you adapt an e-mount lens to GFX, when this cheap lens is available in Canon EF Mount and you can use a dumb EF to GFX Adapter?
 
I've been playing around with my Samyang 85mm f/1.4 lens converted from Sony E to GF using a 3D printed adaptor.
Why do you adapt an e-mount lens to GFX, when this cheap lens is available in Canon EF Mount and you can use a dumb EF to GFX Adapter?
Simple.

I bought the AF version to replace it on my Sony, so I had a spare lens. Initially I thought that it would be simple to swap out the mounts, but when I removed the E mount tube it was a shock to see the complicated lumpy back end of the internal lens. Then my brother in law stepped in. He'd just bought a job lot of six broken 3d printers and managed to fix 5 of them and was itching for a project. I don't know how he does these things but somehow he managed to figure out all the innie and outie bits on the interior of the mount and designed a replacement tube that could accept any mount ring. So basically it was a reusable resource for me, and a project for my genius amateur engineer BiL.
 
5bfcfca3110d4665abb08066461cbbcc.jpg

Freshly-installed (raw wood) cedar fence in the rain the following day.

Nikkor 50mm 1.4, wide open on GFX 100S. I would have used that 85/1.4 if I had it in a heartbeat.
Well, in that spirit some bokelicious wheelie bins with 0.1% in focus :-)



5f638516619f4b468a3f7ab1d4942af8.jpg



--
2024: Awarded Royal Photographic Society LRPS Distinction
Photo of the day: https://www.whisperingcat.co.uk/wp/photo-of-the-day-2025/
Website: https://www.whisperingcat.co.uk/wp/
DPReview gallery: https://www.dpreview.com/galleries/0286305481
Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidmillier/ (very old!)
 
5bfcfca3110d4665abb08066461cbbcc.jpg

Freshly-installed (raw wood) cedar fence in the rain the following day.

Nikkor 50mm 1.4, wide open on GFX 100S. I would have used that 85/1.4 if I had it in a heartbeat.
Well, in that spirit some bokelicious wheelie bins with 0.1% in focus :-)

5f638516619f4b468a3f7ab1d4942af8.jpg
My kinda guy!

This bin was the next shot after the fence . . .



40b177ee4da0412d986ddfa33066f075.jpg

--
Rich
"That's like, just your opinion, man." ;-)
 
5bfcfca3110d4665abb08066461cbbcc.jpg

Freshly-installed (raw wood) cedar fence in the rain the following day.

Nikkor 50mm 1.4, wide open on GFX 100S. I would have used that 85/1.4 if I had it in a heartbeat.
Well, in that spirit some bokelicious wheelie bins with 0.1% in focus :-)

5f638516619f4b468a3f7ab1d4942af8.jpg
My kinda guy!

This bin was the next shot after the fence . . .

40b177ee4da0412d986ddfa33066f075.jpg
This one has about 1/4" of the fence in focus!



1933c0b71a6549afb0898358fb348689.jpg



--
2024: Awarded Royal Photographic Society LRPS Distinction
Photo of the day: https://www.whisperingcat.co.uk/wp/photo-of-the-day-2025/
Website: https://www.whisperingcat.co.uk/wp/
DPReview gallery: https://www.dpreview.com/galleries/0286305481
Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidmillier/ (very old!)
 
When is shallow DOF too shallow to be useful?

When "creatives" decide it is the look they have pined for and demand it on EVERY shot. Their clients won't employ them for long.

My guess is most of us have bought some really expensive ultra bright prime lens and gone out to shoot WIDE-OPEN - as an exercise too see what the results can be and FUN that that can be; don't take this to any commercial shoot, or shoot where clients have paid a fortune for a set or venue/location.

Listen to the real pros: the goal of shooting with a shallow depth of field is most often "subject separation" that enhances the subject without entirely isolating them from the environment they are in. A shallow depth of field should really include the word "appropriately" shallow DOF. Not ever eyelash thin, unless they eyelash was the aim.

Hurley - Mr f/5.6 on an 85mm from 3m/9ft for upper body portraits (DOF 18") using full frame or f/8 from closer in 5' for headshots (DOF ~5"). Whereas my f/1.2 85mm would provide a <3" DOF at 9' and 2/3" at 5' -- completely useless except to show how cleaver one is trying to be.

Others using small medium format - X2D/X1D/GFX-100 -- 120mm lens f/8 when model is at 9 feet provides upper body coverage and 11" DOF (f/14 at 5' gives DOF of 5" perfect for headshot). Whereas if I shoot my 120mm wide open f/3.5 at 5' the DOF is 1 1/4" and 5" at 9'.

For me bright glass is about optical quality first and the ability to shoot in much lower light. Take the 1.9/80 (which is equivalent to a 1.5/63 in 35mm speak) on my X2D - Glorious portrait lens - but never use it wide open - DOF ~6" at 9' (for an "american portrait shot - knees to top of the head); 1 2/3" at 5' for an upper body; and 3' for a head shot with a DOF of 2/3". In each case at these distances the "useable" aperture is f/8(9'), f/13 (5'), f/14 (3') - of course one does not stand the subject close to a backdrop/scene unless one also wants the scene to be more in focus.

Sadly the XCD 1.9/80 is too old and heavy to benefit from the X2Dii's continuous autofocus so shooting wide open is entirely unrealistic for hand held or most human subjects. We are in AF-Single land and that means zone focusing and closing down to allow for some movement.

Personally I prefer a slightly shorter focal length on a medium format for more DOF and full coverage portraits within an environment - than to seek to totally isolate subject from environment.

--
areallygrumpyoldsod
Nikon and Hasselblad shooter -- wildlife and and --
https://www.andymillerphoto.co.uk/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/ajm057/
I do not respond to PMs or messages via my website
 
Last edited:
5bfcfca3110d4665abb08066461cbbcc.jpg

Freshly-installed (raw wood) cedar fence in the rain the following day.

Nikkor 50mm 1.4, wide open on GFX 100S. I would have used that 85/1.4 if I had it in a heartbeat.
Well, in that spirit some bokelicious wheelie bins with 0.1% in focus :-)

5f638516619f4b468a3f7ab1d4942af8.jpg
My kinda guy!

This bin was the next shot after the fence . . .

40b177ee4da0412d986ddfa33066f075.jpg
This one has about 1/4" of the fence in focus!

1933c0b71a6549afb0898358fb348689.jpg


53e43153c47b461da65c3e42c02c0b38.jpg



--
Rich
"That's like, just your opinion, man." ;-)
 
Shooting a fence or so at close range just provides a 'slice'.

But shooting wide open at some distance works for me fine.

| GFX-100 II | Leica Summmilux-R 1.4/80mm | @1.4 |
| GFX-100 II | Leica Summmilux-R 1.4/80mm | @1.4 |

..............................................................................................................................
Bart
 
Shooting a fence or so at close range just provides a 'slice'.

But shooting wide open at some distance works for me fine.

| GFX-100 II | Leica Summmilux-R 1.4/80mm | @1.4 |
| GFX-100 II | Leica Summmilux-R 1.4/80mm | @1.4 |

..............................................................................................................................
Bart
Effective!

--
2024: Awarded Royal Photographic Society LRPS Distinction
Photo of the day: https://www.whisperingcat.co.uk/wp/photo-of-the-day-2025/
Website: https://www.whisperingcat.co.uk/wp/
DPReview gallery: https://www.dpreview.com/galleries/0286305481
Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidmillier/ (very old!)
 
Shooting a fence or so at close range just provides a 'slice'.

But shooting wide open at some distance works for me fine.

| GFX-100 II | Leica Summmilux-R 1.4/80mm | @1.4 |
| GFX-100 II | Leica Summmilux-R 1.4/80mm | @1.4 |

..............................................................................................................................
Bart
Great!

--
 
I've been playing around with my Samyang 85mm f/1.4 lens converted from Sony E to GF using a 3D printed adaptor.

The lens covers the 44x33 beautifully wide open. In 35mm terms, on a GFX body this gives you the field of view of a 70mm lens and a depth of field of f/1.0.
Can't resist jumping in

How blurred something a given distance away from the focus point is in the image depends on focal length squared over aperture (as f/ number). That sets how close to the focus point you need to be to still appear in focus with a given set of viewing conditions (a.k.a. depth of field).

TLDR as focal length increases, the typical reduction in maximum aperture doesn't cancel out the blurring effect of longer focal length.

Worked example. I have a 50mm f/1.4 for my DLSR and an 85 f/1.4 and I used to have a 135mm f/2.5

50² / 8 is 312 remember the old adage "f/8 and be there", to get the depth of a 50 at f/8 my 85 needs to be set to f/24, and the 135 to f/58

50² / 1.4 is 1785, the 85mm gets that at f/4; wide open 85² / 1.4 is 5160 to get that the 50mm would need be set to f/0.5.

The 135 at f/3.5 matches a wide open 85 f/1.4; when it is wide open 135² / 2.5 is 7290 - to get that the 85 would need be an f/1 and the 50 would need be something like f/0.3

If the lens is focused at ∞ the size of a circle a point at distance d makes is given by

c = f²/da ; if we are limited by the circle size that still appears in focus that distance (the hyper focal distance) is given by h = f²/ca

Traditionally focus tables use 0.03mm for 36x24; 0.02mm for APS-C and 0.04mm for 33x44 , if the test is viewing a 10x8 print at arms length the greater magnification for the smaller sensor means a small circle becomes the limit.

So 85 f/1.4 has more apparent d.o.f on a bigger sensor than a smaller one. It's like being set to f/1.8 on 35mm. Of course it has he view of about a 68mm lens and for a 68mm lens to have he d.o.f of and 85 at f/1.8 it would need to be about f/1.1

We'll struggle to find a lens with that angle of view and that shallow a d.o.f.



The answer to a question like "Is the d.o.f at 85 f/1.4 to shallow to be useful"... well I don't see people shunning say 200mm f/2.8 lenses ... Of course the combination of one wide open and minimum focusing distance on such a lens might be useful only very, very rarely.
I went for a walk around the block where I live and took some snaps wide open. Here's 3 examples:

c84f107b0b104f309c017cdb56cdac69.jpg
Here, if the fence were sharp the picture wouldn't work nearly as well. The slight blur on the K and the N don't detract from the picture. This illustrates "find a way to make a small part of the frame stand out from the rest" composition using d.o.f to do it
D.o.F this shallow was definitely useful, shallower still would have worked.
Same again we have all of the post box sharp enough, the background going even further out of focus would have been better.
976a360b1a9f41e1bb8461cf0411c966.jpg

The depth of field on here is tiny, just a sliver. Frankly, what use is this narrow depth of field - 99% of each image is out of focus? Is there something this could be useful for?
This is where I quibble "with out of focus." Some of the post box in 3 isn't perfectly focused that's what you have to live with to isolate it from the background shooting from the distance you have Same with the branch in the last one, you can't isolate as you have and get every one of the berries sharp. But the impression rather than close examination is the pillar box was sharp, the berries were sharp, even a parts are not perfectly in focus. in / out of focus not a binary thing.
 

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