What setting to use rear screen and also evf at same time ?

[DBenz01]

Hi,

Auto 1 requires screen closed to use evf.

Auto 2 turns off screen when evf detects eye.

I am using both screen and evf during a many shots few secs apart image capture, for photogrammetry, holding R6 Mk II (latest firmware the hire company tell me) at eye, walk round subject, then at arms length high aiming down, then at ground level (knee or below) aiming up, and sometimes a 4th lap at waist level.

the screen goes black when at knee or floor, a few inches from trousers is enough to do so.

I am in a confined space, with a wall behind me and need to move camera back as much as poss, to get the subject in, even then its 2 or 3 shots per position, taking up a lot more time than norrmal, but it denies me that as screen goes black.

I need a screen and evf on a 'both on' setting, at least many hundreds of times cursing as screen goes black on me.

Where is the both screens on option as in my 70D for such work ? not being evf the viewfinder was always 'on' and the screen always on when its 'on off' was 'on'. Such being ESSENTIAL for photogrammetry work. I hired the R6 Mk II as I need low light capability.

No time to keep altering menu settings. It really is Fast fast fast. before 'actor' unable to hold pose any longer.

The R6 is just not usable for photogrammetry as such without it, I have managed but with much chagrin ! so how is this set to have both screens on ?

DBenz

 

[Wing2]

I am afraid the option to enable both screen and EVF at the same time would be a very low priority option for Canon to make it available because it will use more power - reducing the battery life by a lot

The best you can do is flip out the LCD and use Auto 1 when you need LCD always on

If you don't flip out the LCD but turn it to facing outward, auto detect between EVF and LCD still works in Auto 1 mode.

 

[Sittatunga]

Hi,

Auto 1 requires screen closed to use evf.

In Auto 1 the eye detect switching still works if you have the screen open but flush with the body. I use this mode to allow me to put the camera right against a wall with the screen in the selfie position.

Auto 2 turns off screen when evf detects eye.

I am using both screen and evf during a many shots few secs apart image capture, for photogrammetry, holding R6 Mk II (latest firmware the hire company tell me) at eye, walk round subject, then at arms length high aiming down, then at ground level (knee or below) aiming up, and sometimes a 4th lap at waist level.

the screen goes black when at knee or floor, a few inches from trousers is enough to do so.

With the R and R8 this is at a distance of about 60mm/2½".

I am in a confined space, with a wall behind me and need to move camera back as much as poss, to get the subject in, even then its 2 or 3 shots per position, taking up a lot more time than norrmal, but it denies me that as screen goes black.

I use Auto 1 with the screen in the selfie position to put the camera right against a wall and still let me frame the picture properly.

I need a screen and evf on a 'both on' setting, at least many hundreds of times cursing as screen goes black on me.

Where is the both screens on option as in my 70D for such work ? not being evf the viewfinder was always 'on' and the screen always on when its 'on off' was 'on'. Such being ESSENTIAL for photogrammetry work. I hired the R6 Mk II as I need low light capability.

But when you put your 70D into Live View, the mirror flips up and the shutter opens so that you can frame the picture on the screen. The mirror blocks the optical viewfinder in Live View so you have to exit Live View to use the OVF.

No time to keep altering menu settings. It really is Fast fast fast. before 'actor' unable to hold pose any longer.

The R6 is just not usable for photogrammetry as such without it, I have managed but with much chagrin ! so how is this set to have both screens on ?

Having both screens on will drain the camera battery more that twice as fast as just using the rest screen. If the rear screen is good enough for three out of four of your shots, why do you need to use the EVF at all? If you do need the EVF for some reason, using Auto 1 and just folding the screen flush (facing either in or out) is, in my experience, slightly quicker than switching a DSLR in and out of Live View.

 

[StrugglingforLight]

I am afraid the option to enable both screen and EVF at the same time would be a very low priority option for Canon to make it available because it will use more power - reducing the battery life by a lot

The best you can do is flip out the LCD and use Auto 1 when you need LCD always on

If you don't flip out the LCD but turn it to facing outward, auto detect between EVF and LCD still works in Auto 1 mode.

Maybe this could be a workaround for him. Have the camera only use the screen. Setup a button to toggle quickly between screen and EVF. That would disable the auto detect turn off of the screen iirc.

 

[Leigh A]

.

The R6 is just not usable for photogrammetry as such without it, I have managed but with much chagrin ! so how is this set to have both screens on ?

DBenz

Can't speak for the R6, but with my R5, in AUTO-2, it switches instantly when my eye nears the EVF, and instantly back to the LCD when I move my eye away.

I have no interest in attempting to view both the EVF and the LCD at the same time, so it works fine for me.

Your recent posts indicate that you're having a great deal of distain overall with the EOS R6-2, so wouldn't it be more beneficial to seek a camera that more satisfactorily fulfills your needs, than endlessly complaining that the one you're using is failing to do so?

 

[William Woodruff]

Hi,

Auto 1 requires screen closed to use evf.

Auto 2 turns off screen when evf detects eye.

I am using both screen and evf during a many shots few secs apart image capture, for photogrammetry, holding R6 Mk II (latest firmware the hire company tell me) at eye, walk round subject, then at arms length high aiming down, then at ground level (knee or below) aiming up, and sometimes a 4th lap at waist level.

the screen goes black when at knee or floor, a few inches from trousers is enough to do so.

I am in a confined space, with a wall behind me and need to move camera back as much as poss, to get the subject in, even then its 2 or 3 shots per position, taking up a lot more time than norrmal, but it denies me that as screen goes black.

I need a screen and evf on a 'both on' setting, at least many hundreds of times cursing as screen goes black on me.

Where is the both screens on option as in my 70D for such work ? not being evf the viewfinder was always 'on' and the screen always on when its 'on off' was 'on'. Such being ESSENTIAL for photogrammetry work. I hired the R6 Mk II as I need low light capability.

No time to keep altering menu settings. It really is Fast fast fast. before 'actor' unable to hold pose any longer.

The R6 is just not usable for photogrammetry as such without it, I have managed but with much chagrin ! so how is this set to have both screens on ?

DBenz

Maybe I'm just confused here. Why don't you just disable the EVF so that the rear display is always on? It seems like that would completely solve your problem. You could use a custom button to go to that mode when you want it, or you could use a C setting if you use it a lot. For the work you are describing, it doesn't sound like you ever need to use the EVF.

 

[R2D2]

I am afraid the option to enable both screen and EVF at the same time would be a very low priority option for Canon to make it available because it will use more power - reducing the battery life by a lot

The best you can do is flip out the LCD and use Auto 1 when you need LCD always on

If you don't flip out the LCD but turn it to facing outward, auto detect between EVF and LCD still works in Auto 1 mode.

Maybe this could be a workaround for him. Have the camera only use the screen. Setup a button to toggle quickly between screen and EVF. That would disable the auto detect turn off of the screen iirc.

+1 I disable Auto switching with all of my cameras. The sensor drives me crazy.

I have the DOF Preview button set for Manual switching. Very fast and easy.

R2

 

[PicPocket]

I need a screen and evf on a 'both on' setting, at least many hundreds of times cursing as screen goes black on me.

You don't need both on, that would be a complete waste of resources for no real benefit. What you really need is better control on which screen you want to use at a given point in time

Where is the both screens on option as in my 70D for such work ? not being evf the viewfinder was always 'on'

Except when you switch on live view, at which point, the mirror blocks the viewfinder turning it 'off'. It's not always on, it's just that the 70D doesn't have any auto switching features

No time to keep altering menu settings. It really is Fast fast fast. before 'actor' unable to hold pose any longer.

The R6 is just not usable for photogrammetry as such without it, I have managed but with much chagrin ! so how is this set to have both screens on ?

If you read the screen and viewfinder display section of the manual, it says this in the note:

You can also switch between viewfinder and screen display by pressing a button you have customized by assigning to switching

Here is the link - https://cam.start.canon/en/C012/manual/html/UG-08_Set-up_0200.html

A button can be customized to change the mode, which is faster than the flick you had to do on 70D, and the lag before the mirror could lock up

If you keep believing that the R6 is less capable that the 70D, you have clearly missed something. While the forum can help you look that up, I just don't understand the judgemental complaining going on here even after so many threads

--
PicPocket

 

[Dareshooter]

I need a screen and evf on a 'both on' setting, at least many hundreds of times cursing as screen goes black on me.

You don't need both on, that would be a complete waste of resources for no real benefit. What you really need is better control on which screen you want to use at a given point in time

Where is the both screens on option as in my 70D for such work ? not being evf the viewfinder was always 'on'

Except when you switch on live view, at which point, the mirror blocks the viewfinder turning it 'off'. It's not always on, it's just that the 70D doesn't have any auto switching features

No time to keep altering menu settings. It really is Fast fast fast. before 'actor' unable to hold pose any longer.

The R6 is just not usable for photogrammetry as such without it, I have managed but with much chagrin ! so how is this set to have both screens on ?

If you read the screen and viewfinder display section of the manual, it says this in the note:

You can also switch between viewfinder and screen display by pressing a button you have customized by assigning to switching

Here is the link - https://cam.start.canon/en/C012/manual/html/UG-08_Set-up_0200.html

A button can be customized to change the mode, which is faster than the flick you had to do on 70D, and the lag before the mirror could lock up

If you keep believing that the R6 is less capable that the 70D, you have clearly missed something. While the forum can help you look that up, I just don't understand the judgemental complaining going on here even after so many threads

Biggest mistake some people make is trying to use a mirrorless like the R6 in the same way as a DSLR which is never a good idea . A different mindset has to be adopted otherwise dissatisfaction and frustration will get in the way of a good user experience.

 

[Leigh A]

How and Why I Shoot With Two Cameras

Shooting with two cameras seems to be a growing trend in the wedding industry. When I first started shooting, I saw people doing this and I just didn’t see the point. I figured I could always change lenses, and then I would be good to go. Once I gave it try I completely fell in love. Here is my...

fstoppers.com

:-D

 

[Digirame]

R2, we had talked about this before. So you gave me an idea. In the menu I changed the Screen/viewfinder display to Auto1 (from Auto2). Then I customized the M-Fn button to switch between VF and the screen. So now when I use the screen, the sensor no longer blacks it out. When I want to switch to using the viewfinder, I push the M-Fn button (which is near the shutter button). If I want to go back the screen I push the M-Fn button again...and so forth.

Did you do something similar to that? I'm going to experiment a little with my Canon R8 and see if that is something I would be comfortable with. Maybe that would be a solution for the OP for his camera too.

 

[DBenz01]

If the rear screen is good enough for three out of four of your shots, why do you need to use the EVF at all?


If poss I use the evf as its a lot quicker and easier to orientate, try doing someones upper arm photographing around it 'normal' to its surface (CAD term, perpendicular in other words), camera gets off angle, time lost trying to work out how to alter camera body angle to get it parallel to arm and centre on arm,

evf much much quicker when chance presents itself.
If you do need the EVF for some reason, using Auto 1 and just folding the screen flush (facing either in or out) is, in my experience, slightly quicker than switching a DSLR in and out of Live View.
need screen out and altering angle as I progress , many changes of angle in one sequence.

you're having a great deal of distain overall with the EOS R6-2, so wouldn't it be more beneficial to seek a camera that more satisfactorily fulfills your needs

I am trying to overcome the problems I am only aware of now I come to use it, having hired the camera for low light capability and an immovable photoshoot . and hours left if that to resolve issues I am coming across.
I was also seeing what an R series camera would be ,like contemplating buying one, as scale model photography would benefit from a few more stops of light and no grain, hand held using existing room light. Some chap was doing so and said no grain, f16 and 6400 iso or may have been 64000, and showed me, but testing the R6 I see grain.

I also travel light and sometimes find the built in flash a godsend for getting light into nooks and crannies on technical items, under the body of a Matador truck, or inside a cab, or the recesses of a Merlin engine, etc. so the R10 would be the choice.

endlessly complaining that the one you're using is failing to do so?
If I have found many issues I need to know how to solve them, not my fault if the R6 throws up such when I have never encountered such in 40 years of photography. and solving them opens the door to being able to consider one.

The child that isnt afraid to stick his hand up in school and ask a question is the child that learns, whilst all those who consider it cool to remain hands down are those that didnt get the passes and are usually now suffering as a result. Just as those that thought cool was no ear defenders and now have hearing issues, (based on a friends case)

Biggest mistake some people make is trying to use a mirrorless like the R6 in the same way as a DSLR which is never a good idea .
I am asking to know whats the solution to enable use of R6 in same fast manner as 70D, or faster still, just wanting to know what the settings are, open to offers etc !

You don't need both on, that would be a complete waste of resources for no real benefit. What you really need is better control on which screen you want to use at a given point in time

keen to know best way to see evf in a blink of an eye, and then shoot with evf on, not having to hold a button in to view evf, but to turn evf on, then revert to screen,.

You can also switch between viewfinder and screen display by pressing a button you have customized by assigning to switching

Here is the link - https://cam.start.canon/en/C012/manual/html/UG-08_Set-up_0200.html

A button can be customized to change the mode, which is faster than the flick you had to do on 70D, and the lag before the mirror could lock up

so thats what is needed, will study it. however camera now returned, however for folk reading this what button did you use for that instant switchover, DOF sounds a good one.

so the problem is solved it seems, probably, as a custom button fix.

DBenz

 

[Leigh A]

so thats what is needed, will study it. however camera now returned, however for folk reading this what button did you use for that instant switchover, DOF sounds a good one.

so the problem is solved it seems, probably, as a custom button fix.

DBenz

Below are the buttons that are available, if convenient, and not used for something else.

 

[Sittatunga]

If the rear screen is good enough for three out of four of your shots, why do you need to use the EVF at all?

If poss I use the evf as its a lot quicker and easier to orientate, try doing someones upper arm photographing around it 'normal' to its surface (CAD term, perpendicular in other words), camera gets off angle, time lost trying to work out how to alter camera body angle to get it parallel to arm and centre on arm,

Actually, I find that using one of the display screen grids (and in addition, simultaneously being able to see the camera's orientation and position relative to the subject) is quicker and easier than lining it up through the viewfinder. However that's just practice, and having the visual imagination that comes from doing technical drawing & using AutoCAD for decades. My dentist recently photographed my mouth for his 3D printed model (more versatile than taking casts of both jaws) using a DSLR very quickly in Live View and obviously couldn't get the vast majority of the images anywhere near square on; he just made sure that there was enough overlap between images for the CAD/CAM software to integrate the model.

...

I also travel light and sometimes find the built in flash a godsend for getting light into nooks and crannies on technical items, under the body of a Matador truck, or inside a cab, or the recesses of a Merlin engine, etc. so the R10 would be the choice.

The 24MPx APS-C R10 will give you slightly better image quality but still in the same class as your 20MPx APS-C 70D and your existing lenses will focus better. A full-frame camera will have 1-1½ stops advantage over an APS-C camera, but perhaps not as much as you thought if you want the same depth of field at the same shutter speed as an APS-C camera, and you need full-frame lenses with it or it will automatically crop to APS-C format with many fewer pixels than a true APS-C camera. A popup flashgun used with a big lens will give you shadows over your closeups. The R10 will be at least as frustrating to use as the R6 II until you stop trying to use it like a DSLR. I find my DSLR quite frustrating to use after my mirrorless cameras, but that's because I've got used to the touchscreen and the flexibility of mirrorless in the dozen years since I bought my first EOS M (no problems there with a viewfinder).

...

Biggest mistake some people make is trying to use a mirrorless like the R6 in the same way as a DSLR which is never a good idea .

I am asking to know what's the solution to enable use of R6 in same fast manner as 70D, or faster still, just wanting to know what the settings are, open to offers etc !

The solution is not to try, they are different beasts with different strengths and weaknesses. Mirrorless will be faster and more flexible than a DSLR if you use its strengths and advanced features. But switching between Live View and the viewfinder is never fast with a DSLR.

...

so thats what is needed, will study it. however camera now returned, however for folk reading this what button did you use for that instant switchover, DOF sounds a good one.

so the problem is solved it seems, probably, as a custom button fix.

I wouldn't use the DoF preview button for that, as the DoF preview is one of the major advantages of mirrorless over the bright but almost untextured screens used in AF SLR cameras. In fact I've re-purposed the red movie buttons on all my mirrorless cameras as DoF preview because I was a cheapskate and bought cameras without that button.

 

[Digirame]

For anyone interested:

I played around with the camera this afternoon with the settings I mentioned previously. I found it only works with the screen pulled out. But I'm good with that, since I like to take pictures with the screen pulled out anyway. I'll see how I like this in the days ahead.

 

[R2D2]

R2, we had talked about this before. So you gave me an idea. In the menu I changed the Screen/viewfinder display to Auto1 (from Auto2). Then I customized the M-Fn button to switch between VF and the screen. So now when I use the screen, the sensor no longer blacks it out. When I want to switch to using the viewfinder, I push the M-Fn button (which is near the shutter button). If I want to go back the screen I push the M-Fn button again...and so forth.

Did you do something similar to that? I'm going to experiment a little with my Canon R8 and see if that is something I would be comfortable with. Maybe that would be a solution for the OP for his camera too.

Yes, the eye sensor does not respond at all, and the display only switches when I push the button. Works great!

R2

 

[Digirame]

Thanks. I did play around with this setting yesterday afternoon on the Canon R8 and I loved it. So now I have three customized buttons. I have one to center the focus, another to change the exposure compensation and this third one to manually switch from the screen to the EVF and visa versa...instead of the auto switching. I change the shutter speed and the aperture with the dials. So everything is quite fast that way.

 

[Digirame]

DBenz, thank you for bring this to our attention. For me after using DSLR cameras for years, it was about three months long of being frustrated with mirrorless cameras, when I first started using the Canon M50 Mark II cameras (I have two of them). But with workarounds, I went to not liking them to find they were enjoyable. Then I got a Canon RP and two Canon R8 cameras. I liked them better than the M series cameras I had...for one they just felt better in the hands and not too tiny.

Even though I have used these mirrorless cameras for quite some time now, your thread gave me an idea to customize another button to avoid the auto switching. See what I wrote above when discussing this with R2D2. I'm sure there will be something new later that I (and we) will learn in the future. So again...thank you.

So yes, the problem is solved with a "custom button fix". If you do decide to purchase a R series camera, please give it time. There is a learning curve and it does take patience after using a DSLR camera for years. I think you'll like the R series a lot. So jump in with the rest of us and have fun. That was smart to hire (rent) a camera to help you decide if it's something you want to do. For me (and I assume for others), I (we) just jumped in with both feet and fortunately survived to liking these R series cameras.

 

[StrugglingforLight]

Thanks. I did play around with this setting yesterday afternoon on the Canon R8 and I loved it. So now I have three customized buttons. I have one to center the focus, another to change the exposure compensation and this third one to manually switch from the screen to the EVF and visa versa...instead of the auto switching. I change the shutter speed and the aperture with the dials. So everything is quite fast that way.

Doesn't the trash icon button do that by default?

 

[Digirame]

Yes, that works for the Canon RP but not the Canon R8. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but that's what I remember...or if there's a better way to do it. There's always something....

Edit: OK, you made me check. The trash can centers the focus on the Canon RP. It does not center the focus on the Canon R8.