What Exposure Mode Do you use Most of the Time

[Ronnie Gaubert]

Great explanation Vadim. Many seem to think Manual mode is more
complicated than A or S. IMO, it is actually simpler - less things
to fiddle with and less finicky.

If you want to ease your frustration, I recommend you try Manual mode
on the next couple of outings.

Leroy

Hi Leroy,

You are just beating a dead horse with your argument in favor of manual. You say manual is easier, less to fiddle with.
Manual: Shutter & Aperture
Aperture Priority: Aperture & Exposure compensation

Seems like a tie to me.

I shoot mainly nature and aperture works great for me. If my subject moves into a different lighting situation, more light or less light, I don't have to do anything. On manual you will have to adjust either your shutter or aperture to obtain a correct exposure. If you are shooting in an even lighting situation you will probably not have to adjust your exposure between shots in manual but in aperture mode you also won't have to adjust your exposure compensation.

If you are not getting consistant results in aperture priority, then shoot manual. I don't have any problems with aperture priority. I shot manual with film cameras for over 30 years. When I switched to digital, I started shooting aperture priority and I have to say it's much easier than manual.
Ronnie G.
--
http://www.pbase.com/ronnie_14187

It's less about the subject and more about the composition & light- Ronnie Gaubert.

 

[Alani]

Just kidding.

M for portraiture work,
A for every thing else,
S fort motion centric (falls, streams, pikes, etc...).
--
Alan

...
A real artist is the one born to share

 

[lwiley]

Hi Leroy,
You are just beating a dead horse with your argument in favor of
manual. You say manual is easier, less to fiddle with.
Manual: Shutter & Aperture
Aperture Priority: Aperture & Exposure compensation

Seems like a tie to me.

I shoot mainly nature and aperture works great for me. If my subject
moves into a different lighting situation, more light or less light,
I don't have to do anything. On manual you will have to adjust either
your shutter or aperture to obtain a correct exposure. If you are
shooting in an even lighting situation you will probably not have to
adjust your exposure between shots in manual but in aperture mode you
also won't have to adjust your exposure compensation.
If you are not getting consistant results in aperture priority, then
shoot manual. I don't have any problems with aperture priority. I
shot manual with film cameras for over 30 years. When I switched to
digital, I started shooting aperture priority and I have to say it's
much easier than manual.

Ronnie, it's hard to argue with your results. And if Aperture works for you, and it's obvious it does, go for it. Don't change a thing.

What I'm saying is that if you're frustrated with A or S and the constant EV adjustments, like I was, try Manual. Don't be afraid to try it because you've heard it's complicated or hard to learn.

You say the light changes in your shooting. I'm not going to argue with you. In my outings the light usually doesn't change that much. So it's not a matter of "Shutter and Aperture dials" versus "Aperture and EV dials", it's a matter of setting it and forgetting it.

Also, see my post below (subject "Examples") for what I'm talking about as far as the matrix meter making adjustments that are not warranted, IMO. That's the "fighting with the camera" that I'm glad to be rid of.

You're right though, I'm beating a dead horse. I'm not saying that Manual is for everyone, especially those that are very seasoned Aperture mode shooters, but if you're struggling with and frustrated with the constant EV corrections, try Manual for a while. It is not complicated. ;-)

Leroy

 

[Ronnie Gaubert]

Leroy,

I'll agree with that. If you are struggling with with any of the automatic exposure choices, then you might want to give manual a try. After all, I did shoot manual for over 30 years.

Ronnie G.
--
http://www.pbase.com/ronnie_14187

It's less about the subject and more about the composition & light- Ronnie Gaubert.

 

[egrivel]

I wondered what would happen if I took a series of shots of my desk.
One series in M mode, one in A mode. First I determined what is in
my opinion the correct exposure. To just get a little clipping on my
coffee cup warmer that exposure is f/2.8, 1/160 at ISO 3200.

I took 4 shots at f/2.8 and 1/160, then 4 shots in A mode and matrix
metering.

This is a great comparison between matrix and spot metering. It has nothing to do with the debate of manual vs. aperture mode.

Eric
--
http://www.lumenssolutions.com/photography/

 

[Dejan80501]

"A" most of the time. "M" the rest of the time.

When shooting action or sporting activities where the lighting changes, I use "A". I was using Manual settings for sometime, until I was talking to a Pro Photog at one of my bike races earlier this year. After discussing the rational of using "A", such as white balance settings and periodic exposure issues, I made the switch...and am glad I did. I do use Manual, but only when I have more control over lighting or the subject is inanimate.

This is a good post. Thanks for starting this thread!
--
Dejan Smaic

http://dejansmaic.smugmug.com

 

[Suntan]

If you are going to adjust the manual setting to whatever the spot meter says, you can just shoot in aperture and use spot metering. You don’t have to use only Matrix in aperture mode.

-Suntan

 

[lwiley]

I wondered what would happen if I took a series of shots of my desk.
One series in M mode, one in A mode. First I determined what is in
my opinion the correct exposure. To just get a little clipping on my
coffee cup warmer that exposure is f/2.8, 1/160 at ISO 3200.

I took 4 shots at f/2.8 and 1/160, then 4 shots in A mode and matrix
metering.

This is a great comparison between matrix and spot metering. It has
nothing to do with the debate of manual vs. aperture mode.

Eric, what are you talking about? It does not matter what metering mode I used to figure out what the correct exposure was in the room. I adjusted the exposure until I saw the coffee cup warmer had a touch of clipping. I could have done that in any metering mode.

The changes in exposure that I saw in aperture mode would have been even greater in spot or center weighted than in matrix. I just don't get your point.

Elaborate, please.

Leroy

 

[lwiley]

If you are going to adjust the manual setting to whatever the spot
meter says, you can just shoot in aperture and use spot metering. You
don’t have to use only Matrix in aperture mode.

Suntan, I don't adjust the manual setting to whatever the spot meter says. I use the spot meter along with chimping initially to figure out the correct exposure and leave it there. From that point I don't pay attention to the meter in the VF.

I don't have to use matrix in A mode, correct. If I had used spot or center weighted, the results would have been more varied (read worse exposures).

Leroy

 

[Alejandro Daz del Ro Fery]

--
Regards, Alejandro.

 

[Suntan]

Right, well as said already, use whatever works for you.

Don't really see this conversation going much further. Good day.

-Suntan

 

[Astro Landscapes]

=Matt=

--
Chuck Norris round-house kicked Ken Rockwell's D3, and now we have the D700.
Contrary to slanderous claims that the D3 slept with the D300 9 months ago!

 

[egrivel]

I wondered what would happen if I took a series of shots of my desk.
One series in M mode, one in A mode. First I determined what is in
my opinion the correct exposure. To just get a little clipping on my
coffee cup warmer that exposure is f/2.8, 1/160 at ISO 3200.

I took 4 shots at f/2.8 and 1/160, then 4 shots in A mode and matrix
metering.

This is a great comparison between matrix and spot metering. It has
nothing to do with the debate of manual vs. aperture mode.

Eric, what are you talking about? It does not matter what metering
mode I used to figure out what the correct exposure was in the room.
I adjusted the exposure until I saw the coffee cup warmer had a touch
of clipping. I could have done that in any metering mode.

The changes in exposure that I saw in aperture mode would have been
even greater in spot or center weighted than in matrix. I just don't
get your point.

Elaborate, please.

First off, reading my comment again I realize it may have been a bit harsh, and I apologize for that.

The difference between Matrix and Spot metering is how the camera determines the "correct" exposure. Both result in some "correct" exposure value (EV).

Once you know what the camera thinks is the "correct" exposure, the photographer needs to make two decisions: whether to accept this exposure value or not (EV compensation), and then which combination of aperture and shutter speed (and ISO, but let's ignore that for the moment) to use to achieve the desired EV. The differences between M, A, S, and P mode are solely different ways of setting the combination of aperture and shutter speed.

Whether a photo is over, under, or correctly exposed, is a question of "determining the desired EV." This is not related to which method you use to set aperture and shutter speed to get the desired EV.

At least, that's how I understand it. So if you want to discuss the advantages or disadvantages of the M, A, S and P modes, the discussion should be about how much easier or harder it is in any of these modes to reach the combination of aperture and shutter speed that you prefer for the situation.

Now, I can see as an advantage of M mode that you can combine setting the EV compensation with setting the combination of aperture and shutter to achieve the desired EV in one operation. But conceptually, they are still different things; you determine how much to the left or right you want the meter to be, and then turn the knobs to get there.

I hope this explains better what I meant to say?

Eric
--
http://www.lumenssolutions.com/photography/

 

[sean000]

What mode do you shoot primarily in and why? I just don't see myself
using much anything else than A mode, and I'm not skilled enough to
shoot in M. For the most part, I even have auto ISO set.

I often use A for the same reason you stated: It gives you control over depth of field, while still being an automatic exposure mode. This is what I usually use for shooting candids and events in available light where I need to be able to get the shot instantly without taking the time to manually adjust everything. As you mention, Auto ISO can also be very useful in these situations. Auto ISO and Aperture priority mode allows you to focus solely on controlling depth of field while the camera worries about everything else. That can be very nice when you need to concentrate on getting the shots at just the right moments.

As much as I like A, I like M even more... even though it isn't the best choice for all situations. Sometimes A is better (I rarely use S, but can see the value for some types of shooting). I even use M to shoot candids and events when I don't need to quickly shoot in changing light. If the light is consistent then I will set the exposure manually and stick to it... that yields consistent results (as long as the lighting really is consistent). For landscapes, architecture, and general walk-around I find manual to be very useful and fast. I select the aperture I want for the shot and then adjust shutter based on what the meter is telling me. If I can't get the shutter speed I need, then I adjust either aperture or ISO to compensate. After I take the shot I check the histogram to see how the exposure was. If it was a little off I simply adjust a setting and retake.

I don't think of M as requiring more skill to use... in fact I'm more comfortable shooting with M because I feel I get more consistency. Meters can be fooled, and sometimes in A or S mode the exposure will be way off. If I'm shooting in M mode and the meter suddenly tells me I need to make a 3 stop adjustment from my last shot... I know it must be taking a reading from something (major shadow or hotspot) that is fooling it. I think M is also the easiest mode for learning how all of the different exposure settings are related (especially if you use the spot meter to measure different parts of a scene), and it helps you learn to estimate the required exposure without even looking at the meter.

 

[Carl Maiorino]

...I rarely shoot in Auto and never in Program...

--
http://www.carlmphotography.com

'I'd knock on wood for good luck, but it just gives me a headache!!!'

 

[Teddy]

That's why there's auto-ISO.

Well, maybe depends on what type of subject or event people are doing, that's why there's varied answers here ... all valid for their purppose.

--
just me
Teddy

 

[scott_mcleod]

For much the same reasons you state re: DOF control, though it is also good to know where the maximum sharpness of your lens occurs and shoot accordingly when the situation warrants it, for example, landscapes, where I would much rather go for maximum sharpness and let the DOF fall where it may (this is not usually a big problem for these sorts of scenes at the f-stops involved e.g. 5.6-8 especially at short focal lengths). You need to shoot in M for panoramas to ensure the same exposure from shot to shot or sitiching will become a lot more difficult (of course there's also light falloff, WB, etc).

Scott

 

[lwiley]

I wondered what would happen if I took a series of shots of my desk.
One series in M mode, one in A mode. First I determined what is in
my opinion the correct exposure. To just get a little clipping on my
coffee cup warmer that exposure is f/2.8, 1/160 at ISO 3200.

I took 4 shots at f/2.8 and 1/160, then 4 shots in A mode and matrix
metering.

This is a great comparison between matrix and spot metering. It has
nothing to do with the debate of manual vs. aperture mode.

Eric, what are you talking about? It does not matter what metering
mode I used to figure out what the correct exposure was in the room.
I adjusted the exposure until I saw the coffee cup warmer had a touch
of clipping. I could have done that in any metering mode.

The changes in exposure that I saw in aperture mode would have been
even greater in spot or center weighted than in matrix. I just don't
get your point.

Elaborate, please.

First off, reading my comment again I realize it may have been a bit
harsh, and I apologize for that.

The difference between Matrix and Spot metering is how the camera
determines the "correct" exposure. Both result in some "correct"
exposure value (EV).

Once you know what the camera thinks is the "correct" exposure, the
photographer needs to make two decisions: whether to accept this
exposure value or not (EV compensation), and then which combination
of aperture and shutter speed (and ISO, but let's ignore that for the
moment) to use to achieve the desired EV. The differences between M,
A, S, and P mode are solely different ways of setting the combination
of aperture and shutter speed.

That last sentence is not exactly right. M mode will not change anything when you reframe for the next shot. The others might and often do change something resulting in a different exposure.

I appreciate your explanation - it makes more sense now where you're coming from. Where I'm coming from is I believe there is one correct exposure for my desktop. Once I've found that correct exposure, I don't need to change anything (there are exceptions but let me make the overall point). I can reframe at will and not change the exposure settings. The light level does not change from the left side of my desk to the right side. It is the same light, thus the exposure should be the same, IMO.

To get to that "correct exposure" I don't even need a meter (spot, center or matrix). I can simply chimp and adjust until I have the brightest thing on my desk pegged to the right. I do use the spot meter though to get me close initially and then I chimp from there to get the correct exposure.

That's how I use the M mode. I set it and forget it. That's a huge difference from the other modes. In the other modes the camera changes the exposure, nearly every time you reframe (see my "Examples" post). The other modes will nail what I call the "correct exposure" once in a while - they get very close most of the time - sometimes they are way off. With M mode I'm always dead on and NO FUTZING WITH EV, APERTURE OR SHUTTER after the initial setup. Sorry for the caps but sometimes I don't think I'm making the point strongly enough.

Whether a photo is over, under, or correctly exposed, is a question
of "determining the desired EV." This is not related to which method
you use to set aperture and shutter speed to get the desired EV.

At least, that's how I understand it. So if you want to discuss the
advantages or disadvantages of the M, A, S and P modes, the
discussion should be about how much easier or harder it is in any of
these modes to reach the combination of aperture and shutter speed
that you prefer for the situation.

Yes and no. You might see every reframe as a new "situation" and therefore require reaching a new "combination of aperture and shutter speed." I do not. I set it and leave it unless the source light changes - when the source light changes, that is a new "situation" to me. There are exceptions - like zooming in to a dark area of foliage, or zooming in to something off-the-scale bright, etc. - those would be new "situations."

Now, I can see as an advantage of M mode that you can combine setting
the EV compensation with setting the combination of aperture and
shutter to achieve the desired EV in one operation. But conceptually,
they are still different things; you determine how much to the left
or right you want the meter to be, and then turn the knobs to get
there.

I hope this explains better what I meant to say?

Yes, much better. Thanks for taking the time.

Please keep in mind too that I am not asking everyone to switch to Manual. Not at all. If A works for you, go for it and don't change a thing. However, if you're using A or S and are tired of the constant EV changes, give M mode a try for a while. In my opinion it is a lot less frustrating to work with.

Leroy

 

[lwiley]

Right, well as said already, use whatever works for you.

Don't really see this conversation going much further. Good day.

Good enough. Thanks for the discussion.

Leroy

 

[sunflowerflyer]

Manual, with aperture and shutter priority second depending on situations.