What could I have done differently?

D7KNewbie

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Please help.

I went hiking this afternoon and took these pics. I took them in Aperture Priority with ISO set at 100 (it was very sunny day).

When I took them, they all looked good on the LCD. But when I came home and check them on the large display, I noticed that all of them were over exposed. It seems like it didn't matter where the sun was (I may be wrong.)

What could I have done differently? Is there a way for me to realize this right away after taking the pictures?

















Thank you.
 
Looking at the photos in NX2 the 1st and 4th photo are exposed perfectly....you maybe wanted to add some contrast but maybe not.........I like them.

The other 2 the subjects had dark clothes on and the camera did a good job on the jackets at the expense of the sky..........overall I think they are good ,I would touch them up a bit in an editor but all and all they look good on my monitor and the histogram in NX2.
--
Gene from Western Pa

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Just trying to learn and it's slow going!
 
Thanks. I didn't even think about changing Metering. I was using Matrix metering which I thought would give me the best result. I'll try different metering.

How about changing Exp. Compensation? Could that have helped? How do I tell what I am doing it right in the field?

Thanks!
 
As Thom Hogan noted, the D7000 needs to be set on center metering in bright light conditions.
 
I really liked your photos - especially the 3rd and 4th. I thought the 3rd was particularly adorable. I guess it depends on what you wanted, but yeah, you might have been happier with center-weighted exposure.
 
Would "Active D-Lighting" help on a day like this?

What are your experience with Active D-Lighting?

Thanks
 
In the field while shooting you check the histogram and the "blinking highlights" to best evaluate how the camera is metering. I hope you aren't judging exposure only by the brightness of the image on the lcd.

On your computer at home you should not trust how the image looks on the screen unless the display has been calibrated. If your home computer is the typical notebook/laptop then the display can never be trusted because viewing angle greatly influences brightness. Sad but true, sorry. :( John
 
"Over-exposed" or "under-exposed" is often relative to what's most important in the shot. Example:





The sky is blown, but, SO WHAT? It was a boring white sky anyway, and it was MUCH more important to expose for my subject!

The only sort of "exception" to remember is that peoples' eyes are drawn toward bright points, so sometimes you still have to be careful.
 
It looks like the camera's metering did an OK job on exposing for the shadowed faces in photos 2 & 3, but overexposed the background as a result.

I would have used fill flash for photos 2 & 3. The idea is to set the ambient exposure (aperture, shutter & ISO) so the background is properly exposed. Then use flash to fill in what would otherwise be deep shadow on the subject's face. Of course this only works for close-in foreground subjects. Fill flash will also add a desirable catch-light to the subject's eyes.

Flash mode iTTL-BL with matrix metering does a decent job on my D70 & D300 in many situations, but sometimes I find that I have to apply compensation to either the ambient exposure or the flash setting to get things to balance to my taste.

If one has the time the best way is to meter for the bright background and then lock in those settings. (I will use manual exposure so the camera doesn't decide to change the exposure when you place the subjects in the frame.) You will have to stay under 1/250s (or 1/320s) if you are using the pop-up flash. If the flash is in iTTL-BL mode and the subjects are near the center of the frame the camera will control the flash output to balance the flash exposure on the faces with the already dialed-in manual ambient exposure.

When doing fill under very bright conditions I avoid aperture priority mode. That's because it's too easy to set the aperture such that the shutter speed has to go above the camera's maximum sync speed which is 1/250 or 1/320s for the D7000. When that happens you might not notice the 'HI' warning in the VF. If I keep the camera in an auto exposure mode while using flash I prefer shutter priority and just set the shutter to the maximum sync speed and turn down the ISO to the base ISO value of the camera. The aperture will follow. If you want a larger aperture (smaller f-stop value) to isolate the subject from the background you'll have to use an ND filter, use a flash that supports high speed FP-sync and/or use a LO ISO setting.

I prefer to use my SB-800 instead of the pop-up for fill since the pop-up's fill range under bright daylight is fairly limited. The SB-800 also allows one to add gels to balance the color temperature of the light as well. For late afternoon sun I find a 1/4 CTO gel reduces the relatively blue cast of the flash.

Steve
 
I was checking the histogram at times, but it is something I need to pay a little more attention while shooting.

Thank you.
 
Great pic. The bird looks very sharp.

When I was reviewing the photos, I felt like the colors were washed out due to the over-exposure...
 
I've read through your thread and you have some good advice...perhaps center metering would have indeed helped. However, I'll add my own take on the images.
Please help.

I went hiking this afternoon and took these pics. I took them in Aperture Priority with ISO set at 100 (it was very sunny day).

When I took them, they all looked good on the LCD. But when I came home and check them on the large display, I noticed that all of them were over exposed. It seems like it didn't matter where the sun was (I may be wrong.)
Sometimes on bright days the LCD will look darker than the actual image. The opposite can be true in a dark environment. You simply can't use the LCD to accurately determine correct exposure. Sometimes the histogram is a more accurate check.
What could I have done differently? Is there a way for me to realize this right away after taking the pictures?
Again, your histogram is often the better tool. Eventually you will learn what the LCD is showing you and how it compares to the actual exposure. You may learn that if an image looks a little underexposed it's probably about right. If you are careful, over time, you should even be able to put a number to how it looks..."I know this shot looks about 2/3 underexposed...it should be OK"
This first shot is a little bit overexposed, not much, just a little. I think what happened is the camera tried to properly expose all that dark hillside to a neutral gray....it raised the exposure because it thought all the dark browns and blacks were underexposed. When it raised the exposure on you, the subjects ended up slightly overexposed, especially the bright sweatshirt. You and I know that that hillside and all those trees are supposed to be dark. You needed to somehow override the camera and tell it that you wanted a darker image....exposure compensation or manual exposure would have given you control.
This second image is suffering from some pretty bad lens flare. Any time you have bright light entering the lens you risk lens flare. It's the lens flare that killed the contrast in this image. Shooting at a different angle and using your lens hood would have helped.
There is very little wrong with this third image. The faces are pretty much properly exposed. The specular highlights might be a little blown out but that is difficult to control in hard sunlight. I think having the faces properly exposed and the sky blown out is a good compromise.

If you are expecting to capture the blue sky as a rich blue it becomes much more difficult. You probably will want to use manual exposure and expose for the sky...right at your maximum sync speed of around 1/250th and whatever ISO and aperture combo gives you your blue sky. If you take that shot then the faces will be underexposed....you can bring up the face exposure using flash or even a reflector. You will want to read up on flash photography, specifically balancing ambient to understand all of this.
I don't think there is anything wrong with this last image either...I'd maybe just set exposure compensation down 2/3 or so for this type of scene.

I think the lesson here is that you can't trust your camera...the little thing is about as smart as a bag of doorknobs. Every shot you take you have to ask yourself if the scene is darker than average and at risk of the camera overexposing or is it brighter than average and at risk of the camera underexposing. And then you need to determine by how much. You have to take control and tell the camera what a good exposure is.

--
eddyshoots
 
Great pic. The bird looks very sharp.
Thank you!
When I was reviewing the photos, I felt like the colors were washed out due to the over-exposure...
Sometimes that will happen with certain lenses, when the light is strong and at certain angles, creates a sort of general "flare" and you lose contrast. Some lenses are MUCH more prone to it than others. Not much you can do except shield the end of the lens with your hand or a lens hood (preferred, because using a hand to do that will leave you a bad grip).
 
You are right. I did try to use the flash when I was facing the sun. The photo came out all white.. I figured aperture was too big to use it with flash. Thank you for the tip. I'll try it next time.
 
ADL (High) under very bright days and shoot raw.

Users usually complaint about slight overexposure, however, it has been well documented that exposing to the right is better then dealing with underexposed shots.

Good Luck
 
Thank you. This helps a lot.

If you could, can you comment on this one, too? I reduce the exposure little bit. Should I have reduced more? Or increase the shuttle speed? Or change the metering method? Thank you.



 
Not only "should I" but you must to adjust exposure compensation.
Every time you take picture of some weard lighting you need to do that.

In this case was picture against incoming light, so compensation was needed to avoid overexposure, as well on some ocasions you need to add extra flash. Just do some practice shots.

Get your subjects in place then take pictures with different compensation from + to 0 to - few stops, add flash and do the same and next time you will remember which setup provided best results. Do same with the snow, bright beach, white/black skeen etc.
 
Good suggestions in this thread. Of course the best is to get everything rightwhen taking the shot but never underestimate post processing. Specially when shooting RAW, there is room for some major adjusting, not least in the white balance area.

A quick edit of your shot, hope you don't mind.



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Harri - My blog: flatulated.blogspot.com
 

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