What are some targeted camera exercises / homework for better technique?

[IDontSpeakMonkey]

What are some targeted camera exercises / homework for better technique?

Most of the advice I read is "practice more". Fine, I agree with that.

But to me that is sort of like "exercise more". It does not give me specific advice. Should I be running, or doing push ups, or crunches?

The answer is, "It depends on your goals"? Fine, I agree with that as well.

I've read (well skimmed really) some photography books and watched some online courses. Most of the books talk about composure, which of course is very important for memorable shots. Many of the training videos are very generalized and are usually more about the instructor telling you how smart and published he is and to buy his/her books on this amazon link below. They are OK as a primer, what is A/P/S/M etc.

But if I don't know how to take a steady shot, or focus properly, or expose properly, it does not matter how well composed the scene is, ..... yet.

On the technical side, I'm more of a "learn by doing" guy. I have done my best to read the 900 page camera manual, but after a while it all blurs together. 20 pages on which memory chip supports which speed / format of movies is not that interesting or relevant.

Especially in my case, I have problems with camera shake (either my age, caffeine intake, impatience or technique I don't know). I am generally holding the camera correctly based upon what I read / viewed. I have a wrist strap / grip that locks the camera to my hand. Maybe that is a problem? IDK.

Is there something I can concentrate on that would help refine my overall technical skills?

If I can master "flower photography" or "insects" or "moving waves" then that skill would carry over into the rest of my photography.

Sort of a "Wax on / Wax off" type of question from the original Karate Kid movie.

• Show me "focus on bee"
• Show me "moving butterfly"
• now combine the two and you have "birds in flight".

Should I turn off Auto Focus and only use Manual focus. Like learning to drive on a manual transmission instead of automatic? My MF's seem to better than my AF's. I think partly because it forces me to slow down and concentrate on Focus instead of pointing at a subject, pushing a button and walking away.

I can't / don't want to carry around a tripod and remote control for every situation. I've tried bean bags on safari and that was great for that use case. I want to be able to be out on the pontoon when an eagle flies over (circling) , grab my camera and get a decent shot. But, the pontoon is moving, the bird is moving, I am moving.

What are some tips or practice topic / homework that you can think of to achieve a particular goal and help build that muscle memory?

I'm looking for something like....

• Take 100 pictures per day of X under conditions 1 until you can achieve this goal.
• Do is again, this time condition 2 (harder, lower light, whatever)
• This time, condition 3 (standing on your head making rocks float)

I really don't care what the subject is I want to work on technique / skills / muscle memory. I live by a lake, I have 2 active dogs, we have lots of trails nearby. But I would be fine with a bowl of fruit as well.

I have plenty of gear to experiment with.

G9M2

• 12 mm f1.4
• 25 mm f1.4
• 12-40mm f2.8 (plan to sell it)
• 10-35mm f1.7 (plan to sell it)
• 35-100 f2.8
• 100-400 f4-6.3
• Several MF lenses and vintage converted 50mm f1.4, 85mm f1.4, 135mm f2.5

Thanks in advance.

 

[AshleyMC]

You don’t mention light.

…

I have a small OM System Flash that I really love for fill flash it is small and portable. But I don't see myself ever carrying a big clunky flash for travel.

Olympus FL-LM3 Flash

I had to mod it a little to fit on the G9M2, but it works great and I love it

Atho mentioned light and you replied in terms of gear.

Guess I don't understand the question then?

You don’t.

Look closely at the beautiful photographs Andrew shared, in the two posts right above, and appreciate how he made best use of the quality and direction of light in each one.

There was no flash involved.

I shoot almost entirely in natural light but we should be clear that flash, light modifiers, shades and reflectors are part of the craft of high skill photographers. Far too much kit for someone interested in travel.

Fully understood.

But equating “light” to “owning a flash” is not helpful.













No flash.

 

[IDontSpeakMonkey]

You don’t mention light.

…

I have a small OM System Flash that I really love for fill flash it is small and portable. But I don't see myself ever carrying a big clunky flash for travel.

Olympus FL-LM3 Flash

I had to mod it a little to fit on the G9M2, but it works great and I love it

Atho mentioned light and you replied in terms of gear.

Guess I don't understand the question then?

Outdoors look for a photographer’s sky and find something to shoot beneath it!

A

Go it. Those are amazing. A good tip

 

[IDontSpeakMonkey]

You don’t mention light.

…

I have a small OM System Flash that I really love for fill flash it is small and portable. But I don't see myself ever carrying a big clunky flash for travel.

Olympus FL-LM3 Flash

I had to mod it a little to fit on the G9M2, but it works great and I love it

Atho mentioned light and you replied in terms of gear.

Guess I don't understand the question then?

You don’t.

Look closely at the beautiful photographs Andrew shared, in the two posts right above, and appreciate how he made best use of the quality and direction of light in each one.

There was no flash involved.

I shoot almost entirely in natural light but we should be clear that flash, light modifiers, shades and reflectors are part of the craft of high skill photographers. Far too much kit for someone interested in travel.

Fully understood.

But equating “light” to “owning a flash” is not helpful.







No flash.

All good.

There was just no context to original phrase "what about light"

I already planned to shot in a variety of lighting conditions, but was not thinking about creative use of light to enhance photography. I was thinking more aperture and ISO and shutter speed.

The pics are great and make for very interesting compositions.

Using "light" as the inspiration vs a measurement was not on my radar, now it is. Thanks

 

[ahaslett]

You don’t mention light.

…

I have a small OM System Flash that I really love for fill flash it is small and portable. But I don't see myself ever carrying a big clunky flash for travel.

Olympus FL-LM3 Flash

I had to mod it a little to fit on the G9M2, but it works great and I love it

Atho mentioned light and you replied in terms of gear.

Guess I don't understand the question then?

Outdoors look for a photographer’s sky and find something to shoot beneath it!

A

Go it. Those are amazing. A good tip

I should pass on a tip from my tutor that sun shining through cloud is an excellent light. It’s called crepuscular rays. Unfortunately it tends to appear and disappear like fairy gold at the end of the rainbow, but sometimes-













So, if you see crepuscular rays, shoot something. Make sure you carry a camera!

A

--
Infinite are the arguments of mages. Truth is a jewel with many facets. Ursula K LeGuin
Please feel free to edit any images that I post

 

[ahaslett]

You don’t mention light.

…

I have a small OM System Flash that I really love for fill flash it is small and portable. But I don't see myself ever carrying a big clunky flash for travel.

Olympus FL-LM3 Flash

I had to mod it a little to fit on the G9M2, but it works great and I love it

Atho mentioned light and you replied in terms of gear.

Guess I don't understand the question then?

You don’t.

Look closely at the beautiful photographs Andrew shared, in the two posts right above, and appreciate how he made best use of the quality and direction of light in each one.

There was no flash involved.

I shoot almost entirely in natural light but we should be clear that flash, light modifiers, shades and reflectors are part of the craft of high skill photographers. Far too much kit for someone interested in travel.

Fully understood.

But equating “light” to “owning a flash” is not helpful.







No flash.

We should mention shadows, like your example in the middle. I envy some shadow shots posted here, maybe one day…

This one amused me - the man walked into my field of view despite me standing there with a tripod (as one does with a Foveon sensor).





Looking for shadows can be fun but also frustrating.





A

--
Infinite are the arguments of mages. Truth is a jewel with many facets. Ursula K LeGuin
Please feel free to edit any images that I post

 

[Jens_ac]

My goal for this day: An image of a hornet catching a butterfly. Tool: 100-400 on the G9m2 with SH60pre 0.5s. Variation: AF fields / Tracking. Got some sharp images already but not that beautiful - thus I go out again. It depends from where it atacs - very difficult to predict. Thus practicing is learning how the hornet does its job - and it is its work since it does not eat its pray, the meat is all for the queen and her kids.

Have fun!

For me that is the advanced course. My skill are more at the level of try to get an inanimate object in focus, and properly exposed. Then, try to get a turtle in focus etc.....

Here are my slow moving or almost static butterflies from last week

OK, you got the butterfly on the chip. Next training: Try to get a beautiful image.

1 get the eyes sharp. It is a portrait!

2. orientate chip parallel to wings so that all is in depth of focus.

3. Get a nice background- some natural colorful flowers/plants blurred.

4 whatever you want in addition.

5. Try other positions and experiment.

6. wait for a hornet to catch it

 

[Gato Amarillo]

Having only skimmed the previous replies:

Practice at the kinds of things you want to shoot, or at the areas you see need improvement.

If you're having trouble with autofocus, work on autofocus. You say manual focus makes you slow down, so train yourself to slow down when using autofocus. Take time to think about just where you place the focus zone and to be sure focus is really locked in. Try the various options your camera offers such as lock vs. continuous to see what works best for you in your common shooting situations. Then work on doing it faster

As Wyatt Earp said to gunfighters, learn to take your time in a hurry.

If you need work on composition you might work on making abstract photos. A few years back I decided I was weak on color composition. I made it a point to go out at least three times a week and look for color abstracts. As I got stronger with color I began looking for photos that worked for both content and abstract color.

Other things: You might work on hand-holding technique with your longest lens. Start with static subjects with strong patterns where you can really judge sharpness. And can assess whether weaknesses are from camera motion, focus, or a combination. The work up to subjects moving across the frame, then to subjects moving toward you. You dogs may help you out here.

And so on. Think about what you want to do or where you are deficient, then devise ways to work on it.

And coming back to Wyatt Earp: "Practice, practice, practice."

Gato

 

[nzmacro]

• now combine the two and you have "birds in flight".

Should I turn off Auto Focus and only use Manual focus. Like learning to drive on a manual transmission instead of automatic? My MF's seem to better than my AF's. I think partly because it forces me to slow down and concentrate on Focus instead of pointing at a subject, pushing a button and walking away.

I'll just quote that section.

Personally that is the best exercise I can think of. It takes time and dedication, you really do get to know your settings and when you nail birds in flight or action shots, you then feel a larger part of the end result itself. No it's not easy going full manual including focus with BIFs or action shots, but it sure is rewarding and a great challenge. You start off with birds on the ground, branches, stumps, etc and when you nail those which is pretty easy, very easy, move onto BIFs. Plenty of missed shots, but after awhile you get to know which way to turn the focus ring and that becomes automatic, then you start to nail shots in flight. It's a time thing and practice makes it easier.

So if you want a challenge, exercise, homework, learn all the controls and settings, there it is IMO.

All the best.

Danny.

 

[JamieTux]

You have a camera that meters well, it can also adjust the shutter speed to make sure you don’t get camera shake and it can change the sensitivity to make sure it’s the right…

focus on composition then when you bump up against a problem come back to see how to overcome it… “I want motion in the sea” - use a slower shutter speed… “I want the sea to look calm” - use an even slower shutter speed!

Separately on the technical side focus on one aspect and shoot the same shot with that one thing changed so you at yourself some reference images (I’d recommend something interesting and close for aperture so you can get a feel for depth of field and something like a metronome or guitar string to start with for shutter speed). Whatever you choose only change that one setting and let the camera do the rest.

There are some rules of thumb for meeting but before cameras had auto meters you still used a light meter and / or shot Polaroid first for critical shots.

Main point is have fun!!

I used to run day courses for beginners and I got everyone taking a medium format shot at the end of the day, I’ll see if I can dig out my materials in case there’s anything useful.

 

[IDontSpeakMonkey]

My goal for this day: An image of a hornet catching a butterfly. Tool: 100-400 on the G9m2 with SH60pre 0.5s. Variation: AF fields / Tracking. Got some sharp images already but not that beautiful - thus I go out again. It depends from where it atacs - very difficult to predict. Thus practicing is learning how the hornet does its job - and it is its work since it does not eat its pray, the meat is all for the queen and her kids.

Have fun!

For me that is the advanced course. My skill are more at the level of try to get an inanimate object in focus, and properly exposed. Then, try to get a turtle in focus etc.....

Here are my slow moving or almost static butterflies from last week

OK, you got the butterfly on the chip. Next training: Try to get a beautiful image.

1 get the eyes sharp. It is a portrait!

2. orientate chip parallel to wings so that all is in depth of focus.

3. Get a nice background- some natural colorful flowers/plants blurred.

4 whatever you want in addition.

5. Try other positions and experiment.

6. wait for a hornet to catch it

BUT WHYYYYY do you hate the butterflies ??????

The butterfly was my auto focus eye focus fail because it focused on the "false" eye on the wing, and I was not careful enough to notice. I should have used a smaller aperture for DOF but I was worried about indoor light so I used 2.8.

I agree on the background. He (it) was not cooperating and was always parallel to the sidewalk.

 

[IDontSpeakMonkey]

• now combine the two and you have "birds in flight".

Should I turn off Auto Focus and only use Manual focus. Like learning to drive on a manual transmission instead of automatic? My MF's seem to better than my AF's. I think partly because it forces me to slow down and concentrate on Focus instead of pointing at a subject, pushing a button and walking away.

I'll just quote that section.

Personally that is the best exercise I can think of. It takes time and dedication, you really do get to know your settings and when you nail birds in flight or action shots, you then feel a larger part of the end result itself. No it's not easy going full manual including focus with BIFs or action shots, but it sure is rewarding and a great challenge. You start off with birds on the ground, branches, stumps, etc and when you nail those which is pretty easy, very easy, move onto BIFs. Plenty of missed shots, but after awhile you get to know which way to turn the focus ring and that becomes automatic, then you start to nail shots in flight. It's a time thing and practice makes it easier.

So if you want a challenge, exercise, homework, learn all the controls and settings, there it is IMO.

All the best.

Danny.

Here is today's MF samples. About 20% keepers.

Flowers and Bees - Strong Wind Manual Focus 50mm

 

[IDontSpeakMonkey]

You have a camera that meters well, it can also adjust the shutter speed to make sure you don’t get camera shake and it can change the sensitivity to make sure it’s the right…

focus on composition then when you bump up against a problem come back to see how to overcome it… “I want motion in the sea” - use a slower shutter speed… “I want the sea to look calm” - use an even slower shutter speed!

Separately on the technical side focus on one aspect and shoot the same shot with that one thing changed so you at yourself some reference images (I’d recommend something interesting and close for aperture so you can get a feel for depth of field and something like a metronome or guitar string to start with for shutter speed). Whatever you choose only change that one setting and let the camera do the rest.

There are some rules of thumb for meeting but before cameras had auto meters you still used a light meter and / or shot Polaroid first for critical shots.

Main point is have fun!!

I used to run day courses for beginners and I got everyone taking a medium format shot at the end of the day, I’ll see if I can dig out my materials in case there’s anything useful.

I like the guitar string idea.

Here is today's Manual Focus Prime Samples. Mostly working on Focus and Handheld in moderate wind instead of composition. One thing at a time for simple minds.

Flowers and Bees - Strong Wind Manual Focus 50mm

 

[IDontSpeakMonkey]

 

[IDontSpeakMonkey]

 

[Jens_ac]

My goal for this day: An image of a hornet catching a butterfly. Tool: 100-400 on the G9m2 with SH60pre 0.5s. Variation: AF fields / Tracking. Got some sharp images already but not that beautiful - thus I go out again. It depends from where it atacs - very difficult to predict. Thus practicing is learning how the hornet does its job - and it is its work since it does not eat its pray, the meat is all for the queen and her kids.

Have fun!

For me that is the advanced course. My skill are more at the level of try to get an inanimate object in focus, and properly exposed. Then, try to get a turtle in focus etc.....

Here are my slow moving or almost static butterflies from last week

OK, you got the butterfly on the chip. Next training: Try to get a beautiful image.

1 get the eyes sharp. It is a portrait!

2. orientate chip parallel to wings so that all is in depth of focus.

3. Get a nice background- some natural colorful flowers/plants blurred.

4 whatever you want in addition.

5. Try other positions and experiment.

6. wait for a hornet to catch it

BUT WHYYYYY do you hate the butterflies ??????

The butterfly was my auto focus eye focus fail because it focused on the "false" eye on the wing, and I was not careful enough to notice. I should have used a smaller aperture for DOF but I was worried about indoor light so I used 2.8.

I agree on the background. He (it) was not cooperating and was always parallel to the sidewalk.

No worries, hornets have a suprisingly low success rate - or butterfly have the perfect answers - flattering. But it is very interesting to watch in slow motion.

 

[JamieTux]

Thanks for sharing! I really like the last one, the triangle of thistles leads you around the frame well!

Another one for shutter speed is taking photos of moving water, it really brings the differences to life, and try some extremely fast and slow. You’d need a tripod but you can even using long shutter speeds to remove people from your shot at times if they are moving quickly enough.

Slower shutter speeds give you more movement (if flash or strobes are used as the main light source they act like a really quick shutter speed). I think that this is still my favourite slow shutter speed shot I’ve taken, it was 2s handheld with the original EM5. The guys on the floor were a video crew recording a showreel for a potential new show and I was covering the stills side.

https://flic.kr/p/edG9i7

Anyway, however you want to do control just one element and let the camera sort out the rest until you’ve got a proper understanding then move onto another.

Don’t be afraid to use P or auto modes too and see what decisions the camera made then work out how to tweak them to get the image you wanted.

 

[IDontSpeakMonkey]

Thanks for sharing! I really like the last one, the triangle of thistles leads you around the frame well!

Another one for shutter speed is taking photos of moving water, it really brings the differences to life, and try some extremely fast and slow. You’d need a tripod but you can even using long shutter speeds to remove people from your shot at times if they are moving quickly enough.

Slower shutter speeds give you more movement (if flash or strobes are used as the main light source they act like a really quick shutter speed). I think that this is still my favourite slow shutter speed shot I’ve taken, it was 2s handheld with the original EM5. The guys on the floor were a video crew recording a showreel for a potential new show and I was covering the stills side.

https://flic.kr/p/edG9i7

Anyway, however you want to do control just one element and let the camera sort out the rest until you’ve got a proper understanding then move onto another.

Don’t be afraid to use P or auto modes too and see what decisions the camera made then work out how to tweak them to get the image you wanted.

I like the last tip a good idea.

I've not tried P or Auto on the G9M2. On my prior body it seemed the solution from the camera was always push the ISO beyond what is acceptable, so I stopped using it.

 

[CBR1100XX]

If you want to push yourself what about taking those flower and bee photos with the 100-400? Crank up the shutter speed and then slowly bring it down to see what works best for you and that'll help give you an idea of what you need. Plus 400mm can just be fun especially with the working distance it gives you. These are with the PL 50-200 + 2x TC:





In terms of composition I like going to the same place multiple times and trying to get unique images. Also when you see something try to capture it from a different angle or switch something up on the technical end. A lot of the time it won't pay off but when it does you have a good image and a foundation to build off of for new ones.

 

[IDontSpeakMonkey]

If you want to push yourself what about taking those flower and bee photos with the 100-400? Crank up the shutter speed and then slowly bring it down to see what works best for you and that'll help give you an idea of what you need. Plus 400mm can just be fun especially with the working distance it gives you. These are with the PL 50-200 + 2x TC:





In terms of composition I like going to the same place multiple times and trying to get unique images. Also when you see something try to capture it from a different angle or switch something up on the technical end. A lot of the time it won't pay off but when it does you have a good image and a foundation to build off of for new ones.

Those are great

 

[Bobapingu]

On the technical side, I'm more of a "learn by doing" guy. I have done my best to read the 900 page camera manual, but after a while it all blurs together. 20 pages on which memory chip supports which speed / format of movies is not that interesting or relevant.

Amen to that. The Jinglish terminology and contextual style makes it all the more difficult. The contents page and index are woeful. For example, in the table of contents for the OM-1, there is item 2 "Shooting", item 4 "Shooting Settings", item 7 "Setting up the Camera", ???