Using a sturdy Tripod

"a good quality tripod is you r silent friend"

I give thanks that they've yet to put microprocessors in tripods! Oops, maybe I shouldn't give them any ideas.
 
An excellent body/lens combination will give you 7-8 stops or more of stabilization these days.
I don't know about many others, but at 50mm with a 1 second exposure, I'm certainly not achieving consistent results that I'd be happy to leave up to chance.
From memory the CIPA test assumes just 10% of a group of testers achieve the full rated claim - implying 90% are unlikely to get the 8 stops possible potential.

To some extent claims are lens dependent - being based on using the 24-120 Z for the Z6 III.

Individual "safe" hand holding ability can easily vary by 3 stops (sometimes more) among a group of photographers.

My advice is each photographer should do their own testing having regard to a majority using a wide range of lenses unlikely to achieve the maximum theoretically possible most of the time - if ever ;-)
 
An excellent body/lens combination will give you 7-8 stops or more of stabilization these days.
I don't know about many others, but at 50mm with a 1 second exposure, I'm certainly not achieving consistent results that I'd be happy to leave up to chance.
From memory the CIPA test assumes just 10% of a group of testers achieve the full rated claim - implying 90% are unlikely to get the 8 stops possible potential.

To some extent claims are lens dependent - being based on using the 24-120 Z for the Z6 III.

Individual "safe" hand holding ability can easily vary by 3 stops (sometimes more) among a group of photographers.

My advice is each photographer should do their own testing having regard to a majority using a wide range of lenses unlikely to achieve the maximum theoretically possible most of the time - if ever ;-)
Quite a few Sony users were only getting 1-2 stops, despite the claims of 5.5 stops.
 
The price of a top flight tripod and head is long forgotten over time.

I got my Gitzo 5 series and RRS BH-55 ballhead in 2006, and it's still going strong, and it's been through hell. It was in many ways my first "buy once, you're done" purchases.
Gitzo are not perfect and l don't know any amateurs who use them. Just read one review on Gitzo and Benro, he had to have 2 legs replaced, on his Gitzo within 10 years, because of cf breakdown. He changed to Benro, which he found just as good but a lot cheaper.

l bought a Benro about 8 years, l got an demo one, half price. It has stood up well so far, plenty of use on beaches and in the sea. All my tripods have last many years, Manfrotto, Giotto and Benro. Manfrotto was Al, too heavy and not good enough damping.

When l bought the Benro, not many others had them, now they seem one of the most popular brands, in the UK.
Well, I'm an amateur and bought a new Gitzo 5 Series, do I count?

Had I known I was overpaying for the same quality, I could have just gotten a Benro for a fraction of the price. Silly me... Live and learn, I guess.
Hi!

When it come to tripods, I believe in buying high quality at the onset (see my prior posts)

You're not "overpaying" if it's something that you're happy with, can afford, and will last a life times .

(I'm also an "amateur" but don't use Gitzo...)

I opted for the RRS (RRS is about as much of a "bargain" as Gitzo :-) )

Best Regards

RB
 
The price of a top flight tripod and head is long forgotten over time.

I got my Gitzo 5 series and RRS BH-55 ballhead in 2006, and it's still going strong, and it's been through hell. It was in many ways my first "buy once, you're done" purchases.
Gitzo are not perfect and l don't know any amateurs who use them. Just read one review on Gitzo and Benro, he had to have 2 legs replaced, on his Gitzo within 10 years, because of cf breakdown. He changed to Benro, which he found just as good but a lot cheaper.

l bought a Benro about 8 years, l got an demo one, half price. It has stood up well so far, plenty of use on beaches and in the sea. All my tripods have last many years, Manfrotto, Giotto and Benro. Manfrotto was Al, too heavy and not good enough damping.

When l bought the Benro, not many others had them, now they seem one of the most popular brands, in the UK.
Well, I'm an amateur and bought a new Gitzo 5 Series, do I count?

Had I known I was overpaying for the same quality, I could have just gotten a Benro for a fraction of the price. Silly me... Live and learn, I guess.
Hi!

When it come to tripods, I believe in buying high quality at the onset (see my prior posts)

You're not "overpaying" if it's something that you're happy with, can afford, and will last a life times .

(I'm also an "amateur" but don't use Gitzo...)

I opted for the RRS (RRS is about as much of a "bargain" as Gitzo :-) )

Best Regards

RB
That maybe ok in the USA, but RRS were not readily available here, in the UK and they are very expensive. I use mine a lot in the sea, not sure l would want to be using a £1,000 tripod in those conditions. My Benro still works fine, need to strip it down sometimes. I had Manfrotto AL before, not that keen on them, heavy and vibrate more than my CF. I know a few people who had problems with Manfrotto.

It depends where you live, some brands are a lot better value, than others.
 
My advice is each photographer should do their own testing having regard to a majority using a wide range of lenses unlikely to achieve the maximum theoretically possible most of the time - if ever ;-)
Quite a few Sony users were only getting 1-2 stops, despite the claims of 5.5 stops.
With around 5 stop claimed in-lens VR lenses and 5 stop claimed IBIS Nikon equipment I usually get dramatically more than this :-)

Older generation in-lens VR for any system has much less capability than recent equipment.

An claimed advantage of the Nikon system is that the lens is centred on the optical axis with first pressure on the shutter so that a claimed five stopped potential movement is available - all the time.

With other systems when the shutter is pressed and the in-lens system is the equivalent of two stops off centre then only three stops are available in that direction.

Another advantage with Nikon is that a separate switch does not have to be operated when panning.

Some leading you-tube posters using the 3 main systems say Nikon in-lens VR is superior. As I use only the Nikon system, I cannot confirm this.
 
My advice is each photographer should do their own testing having regard to a majority using a wide range of lenses unlikely to achieve the maximum theoretically possible most of the time - if ever ;-)
Quite a few Sony users were only getting 1-2 stops, despite the claims of 5.5 stops.
With around 5 stop claimed in-lens VR lenses and 5 stop claimed IBIS Nikon equipment I usually get dramatically more than this :-)

Older generation in-lens VR for any system has much less capability than recent equipment.

An claimed advantage of the Nikon system is that the lens is centred on the optical axis with first pressure on the shutter so that a claimed five stopped potential movement is available - all the time.

With other systems when the shutter is pressed and the in-lens system is the equivalent of two stops off centre then only three stops are available in that direction.

Another advantage with Nikon is that a separate switch does not have to be operated when panning.

Some leading you-tube posters using the 3 main systems say Nikon in-lens VR is superior. As I use only the Nikon system, I cannot confirm this.
Yes but quite a few Sony new lenses don't have IS, such as 20-70, also some Tamrons don't either. These are quite recent lenses. I'm only getting about 2 stops with IBIS, on my A7Rlll.

Others report even less.
 
Yes but quite a few Sony new lenses don't have IS, such as 20-70, also some Tamrons don't either. These are quite recent lenses. I'm only getting about 2 stops with IBIS, on my A7Rlll.
Some recent lenses from Nikon (eg 24-70 II) and from Canon do not have in lens VR, partly because more than the latest IBIS tends to be needed only with longer focal length lenses.
Others report even less.
I cannot explain the poor results you report.

The Nikon 24-120 Z that does not have in-lens VR works very well with the Z6 III up to 8 stops IBIS rated with this lens at at 120mm.

If you visit a camera store you may be able to try out the Z6 III and 24–120 to see if in your hands it performs better than your results using Sony.

--
Leonard Shepherd
In lots of ways good photography is similar to learning to play a piano - it takes practice to develop skill in either activity.
 
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Yes but quite a few Sony new lenses don't have IS, such as 20-70, also some Tamrons don't either. These are quite recent lenses. I'm only getting about 2 stops with IBIS, on my A7Rlll.
Some recent lenses from Nikon (eg 24-70 II) and from Canon do not have in lens VR, partly because more than the latest IBIS tends to be needed only with longer focal length lenses.
Others report even less.
I cannot explain the poor results you report.

The Nikon 24-120 Z that does not have in-lens VR works very well with the Z6 III up to 8 stops IBIS rated with this lens at at 120mm.

If you visit a camera store you may be able to try out the Z6 III and 24–120 to see if in your hands it performs better than your results using Sony.
But not everyone is using the latest cameras though, some of which cost over £3,000, such as the Sony A7RV, £3,500, there was a recent thread on disappointing IBIS on the Sony A7Rlll, quite a few were only getting 1-2 stops improvement, it is not just me.

I disagree lenses don't need IS, l use the 20-70, it definitely could do with some. I think the Sony A7RIV has same IBIS as the A7Rlll, that is a current camera. Yes the A7RV has improved IBIS.
 
You may just be seeing the problem with lighter smaller cameras.

Bigger cameras tend to be more stable when hand held. It takes more to jiggle a big camera.

Some of this can be technique. You'll see plenty of people handholding in weird ways. Arms out front looking at the screen for example. Not exactly great for a slow SS.

If you're lucky you can take advantage of your surroundings . I've rested cameras on stone walls. I've leaned against walls or poles. Just test first because some poles aren't that sturdy.
 
But not everyone is using the latest cameras though, some of which cost over £3,000,
Agreed - though with the Nikon system most of the latest "bells and whistles" are now available at lower prices - though not in a "professional" body.

Even AF or metering is not essential in a camera body - though almost everybody uses these features almost all the time.
such as the Sony A7RV, £3,500, there was a recent thread on disappointing IBIS on the Sony A7Rlll, quite a few were only getting 1-2 stops improvement, it is not just me.
As I do not use Sony as I said before I cannot comment hands on.

Whether a significant percentage of Sony users might have below average hand holding ability, or Sony might not be following the CIPA standard intended to provide a reasonable IBIS performance comparison between brands is something I do not know - though I doubt either ;-)
I disagree lenses don't need IS, l use the 20-70, it definitely could do with some. I think the Sony A7RIV has same IBIS as the A7Rlll, that is a current camera. Yes the A7RV has improved IBIS.
What would you gain with IS at 20mm?

IBIS has been providing up to 5 stops at 50mm for some time and one latest version provides up to 8 stops at 120mm.

In lens VR/IS works best with telephoto lenses and is generally less than 6 stops, implying with current technology IBIS is the better shorter focal length camera shake reducer.

If you could benefit from using a sturdy tripod at as short a focal length as 20mm - only you can decide if you could or should use one more often.

--
Leonard Shepherd
In lots of ways good photography is similar to learning to play a piano - it takes practice to develop skill in either activity.
 
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You may just be seeing the problem with lighter smaller cameras.

Bigger cameras tend to be more stable when hand held. It takes more to jiggle a big camera.

Some of this can be technique. You'll see plenty of people handholding in weird ways. Arms out front looking at the screen for example. Not exactly great for a slow SS.

If you're lucky you can take advantage of your surroundings . I've rested cameras on stone walls. I've leaned against walls or poles. Just test first because some poles aren't that sturdy.
I never use the screen when taking an image, the camera is against my face or on a tripod.. I'm used to heavier cameras just come from Canon 5DSR. Nothing to rest on in parks and in the street. You often don't get time anyway. I did not realise the light was so low otherwise l would have bumped the ISO up.
 
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