Upgrade to OM-1 or stick with E-M1.2 for allround-use?

[Cornflake7]

the cat/dog tracking mode on OM-1 works on all the mammals my friend and I've encountered. Be it ferret, bear, dear and squirrels. I think that's one of the biggest Pro for upgrading if you do shoot those.

Can OM-1 recognize horses? I would like more animals to be recognized in the future. This should be a priority, IMO.

 

[NorCal Jim]

Good topic!

I am very happy with my E-M1 Mk2 that I keep paired with the 12-40mm f/2.8 lens. Despite the extra weight compared with my Pen cameras and tiny primes, I really like the way it fits in my hand, the external controls, the ruggedness and the amazing IBIS. Thanks to the firmware upgrade, it now has reliable autofocus.

I had been targeting the E-M1 Mk3 but couldn't resist a wonderful deal on a scarcely used Mk2. For my modest use, there is no need to upgrade either to the Mk3 or OM1 but it is interesting to read about the differences from those who use these cameras.

Jim

 

[ursamajorRO]

However the OM1 has new features that for me make it indispensable.

The hand held focus bracketing and if needed Stacking, is terrific and very fast.

With a good lens the handheld hi-resolution feature is also fabulous - and also especially useful for 'slow motion' water effect of streams, waterfalls and shorelines. The built in ND filter can also be used to create a similar effect.

Using modified firmware on EM1.2 you can do focus stacking with ALL AF lenses. After long hesitations, I installed v. 3.6 hacked version and it works like a charm with all my AF lenses. Lol, the install was ridiculously easy and w/o issues.

See here: https://www.mu-43.com/threads/modified-firmware-looking-for-users.99804/page-27#post-1689899

EM1.2 also have HR, but only on tripod.

Some pics taken with EM1.2 and Panny 100-300II: https://www.dpreview.com/galleries/1801641203/albums/e-m1-2-panny-100-300mm-ii#page=1

 

[ereira25]

I have upgraded from the EM1mk2 when the OM-1 came out.

The best think about the OM-1 is the new menu layout. I personally like it very much as it makes using the camera say easier, however if you don’t do bird photography I would say keep the EM1mk2.

There is not much difference in IQ to justify the investment.

 

[OlyInKanab]

I shot with the E-M1.2 for several years, still have it though it doesn't get much use now. I upgraded to the OM-1 a couple of years ago and it's a significant upgrade. EVF is now bigger, brighter and OLED, which means you can use it with polarized sunglasses. The speed of the camera, operationally and shooting, is impressive. The focusing, even on C-AF, is significantly better, both speed and accuracy. I would say the ISO performance is a stop better. The menu system is superb. Battery capacity is improved. It's just a better overall camera, top to bottom. It is geared towards wildlife/adventure photographers but it's a great all around camera, the differences over the E-M1.2 are significant IMO.

 

[chrishurley]

When you folks say the noise and DR is better- is that in raw or JPEG?

I've seen examples of the AI noise reduction in the JPEGS but it appears that the raw files are really pretty similar to the old EM1.2/3 sensors

 

[Adrian Harris]

When you folks say the noise and DR is better- is that in raw or JPEG?
I've seen examples of the AI noise reduction in the JPEGS but it appears that the raw files are really pretty similar to the old EM1.2/3 sensors

I agree. In fact I find raw noise slightly easier to deal with on the em1-mk2 at iso 400-800. But my pc won't run any of the superb new noise reduction software.

 

[Skeeterbytes]

When you folks say the noise and DR is better- is that in raw or JPEG?
I've seen examples of the AI noise reduction in the JPEGS but it appears that the raw files are really pretty similar to the old EM1.2/3 sensors

I agree. In fact I find raw noise slightly easier to deal with on the em1-mk2 at iso 400-800. But my pc won't run any of the superb new noise reduction software.

Was shut out of the OM Workspace AI NR and then, as if by some dire magic, that PC went on a serious, permanent strike and needed replacing.

New box has an AI NR-compliant graphics card; also bought DxO Photolab. It's a whole new world with these tools and yes, shoot ORFs. Always, since they no longer slow down the camera.

Worth adding that revisiting noisy treasured old images is worth the bother to access these tools.

All IMHO.

Rick

 

[OlyInKanab]

"When you folks say the noise and DR is better- is that in raw or JPEG?"

I shoot RAW and have been using DXO PureRaw or Topaz DeNoise AI since those tools became available. To my eye, and this stuff tends to be very subjective, I generally wasn't happy with ISO 6400 images from the E-M1.2, even after running them through software. From the OM-1 I generally am satisfied with ISO 6400 and even sometimes ISO 12800 if there was enough light and the ISO was being driven up by the need for more shutter speed. Again, that's just what I'm happy with, others may disagree.

 

[chrishurley]

"When you folks say the noise and DR is better- is that in raw or JPEG?"

I shoot RAW and have been using DXO PureRaw or Topaz DeNoise AI since those tools became available. To my eye, and this stuff tends to be very subjective, I generally wasn't happy with ISO 6400 images from the E-M1.2, even after running them through software. From the OM-1 I generally am satisfied with ISO 6400 and even sometimes ISO 12800 if there was enough light and the ISO was being driven up by the need for more shutter speed. Again, that's just what I'm happy with, others may disagree.

Good to hear. I guess the static test images in reviews would be hard pressed to represent all the possible usage situations.

 

[Arek Halusko]

correct. I bought a Pen F with the 20Mpx sensor and noticed NO improvement over the 16 Mpx. I keep using the EM1 Mk1, in combination with a Canon FF. And people usually do not notice difference between pictures from the latter two

I see a lot of difference between the 16MP EM-1 I and the 20MP EM-1 II and EM-1 X. Not so much resolution, but colors are better, no need for saturation, and far better handling of difficult dynamic range issues such as shooting a scene with a snowy peak and closer-in vegetation. The EM-1 I sensor could not handle that situation if it was sunny.

That said, the 20MP EM-1 II produces excellent images; I would doubt I would find significant differences with the OM-1 or with FF. At least not differences worth getting excited about.

Personally for me from MK1 to Mk2 was a noticeable difference in some details like in buildings, could get far away buildings much more sharper and maybe 15% more detail when processed with Darktable.

I'm back to the Mk1 as all my stuff was stolen a while ago and being a post COVID peasant had to go settle for Mk1. On overcast days and especially with snow the sky can't handle much editing before blowing out. Mk2 had much more leeway.

I do shoot quite a bit Bracket/HDR so for most part I'm ok but like today where it was cold AF where I just wanted to shoot single frames and even exposing for the sky a bit more the I can blow out the sky highlights pretty easily.

I could push the Mk2 files a bit further than mk1 with less noise but not that much less.

 

[EZGritz]

When you win the lottery you can buy an OM1 MKII so you can use the software graduated filters. Or go old school with an inexpensive glass filter system that worked for me. Great way to adjust to bright skies sunrises, and sunsets.

Glad you had a good backup camera.