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Tips from pros in the field?

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Funny how a few people started off saying take loads of photos and then we settled down into take a few but think about what you're taking. I'm cosntantly amazed by how many photos people take.

Like an earlier poster said, if you just rattle them off then you never really think what you're trying to portray, it just becomes a straight documentary of what's in front of the camera.

To go back to the garbage can idea, I think it's brilliant. A documentary of a garbage can is pretty boring but if you can portray it in an itneresting way it becomes a keeper I think.

For me, the interesting photos are not the straight documentary types (birds, flowers etc) but the "captures". I'm finding more and more (I'm jst an interested amateur) that I need to think what I'm trying to achieve and that means thinking about what PSCS can do for the image as well.

GC
Colorofthewind999 said:
Thanks for this golden idea!

Grace

http://www.pbase.com/colorofthewind
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Personally I think there is merit in the LOTS of photos technique. There are certain subjects, such as children, that you have to be lucky to get a good shot. Then there are subjects such as landscapes where a change of angle or different light can make a world of difference. Technically, you have to be able to capture the moment but the moving, telling, emotionally charged moment is the rare event and for that there is no substitute for try and try again.

--
Shoot First Edit Later
 
Count me in the "less is more" group. One of the things that I enjoy about shooting medium format is that you get twelve images per roll. You need to think to get a good batting average.

When I have a student, I generally give her a manual rangefinder camera without a meter. I teach her the 'sunny f/16' rule and hand her a roll of Tri-X and send her on her way. I started doing this when my own Minolta flash meter failed on me (costing several rolls of film-an entire job). I no longer use a meter, because I don't need one. I trust my judgement more.

Shoot in manual mode. Always. You'll learn more, and become more creative. Less is more.
 
RATPhoto said:
I really like that first mist shot despite the tree getting cutoff.
The 3rd I like as well.
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Yeah, the first is in an undeveloped lot near my old work, right behind it was a road and a bunch of warehouses. I figured I'd chop the tree off. :)

I like the third one too, it really has a 3D feel - the layers of trees in the mist.
 
timjenner said:
So, could any pros or advanced amateurs let us in on your tips for
success? Anything from basics like how you hold your camera (e.g.
left hand cupped under lens, palm supporting body) to get the most
stable shots to handy things you've learned in the field.
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I'm just an beginner, these may not apply to you, but are what I found important since getting the 300D. My tips would be.

1. Try to attend a photography class to learn the basics - such as the general rules for shooting ( rule of thirds, sunny 16, golden hours etc. ), holding the camera, and the technical details of aperture, depth of field, etc. as they relate to your camera.

2. Understand light. That's been my greatest lesson from viewing the images here and from lessons at classes. I get up early to catch the effect of the morning golden hour sunlight on places that I normally only see near midday.

3. Review every image you take to identify how to make it better next time.

Bruce Hamilton
 
Reminds me of the cliche - 'Every squirrel gets a nut sooner or later'. While cliche, luck is a factor. I was at a family graduation and photographed my sister as she crossed the stage to get here diploma (docterate degree). Very elaborate cermonial stuff. They had to walk a certain path, greet this person, shake hands here, get diploma there, walk there, bow here, kneel there, and then get that shah thing put around their neck.

I had 300D firing away as fast as it could. 30 pictures in about 30 second period. The best one - a shot while she waiting to go up on stage. Very natural, you see a bit tension/nervousness, etc. The other pictures captured the event and looked like the stereo-typical photo's you'd expect to see, but the one of her waiting caught the "moment". Didn't even think twice about the pic when I took it. Definitely falls into the category of "dumb luck".
 
Great advice.

I'll just add that I always use fishing bags to cary my equipment. They're full of pockets, sturdy, waterproof, cheap, and they don't stand out like a sore thumb. Just try and get one with a zip under the flap, or better still, add some velcro - a pickpocket's worst nightmare.
s k u l p t said:
1) For handholding low light shots, try and brace yourself against
something. A tree, rock, bench, car, ice scupture.... ; ) Stay
relaxed, and get into a nice relaxed breathing pattern. Sounds
stupid but it works.

2) For hiking and tripod work, I keep the camera on the tripod and
fold the legs inward, but keep the legs partially extended. I can
grab the leg end of the tripod and balance everything nicely on my
shoulder that way. This keeps everything easy access.

3) Traveling and not being a target for theft---- People seem so
stuck on spending a lot of money on camera bags. This can be fine,
but it also puts a label on your head that you have some really
nice gear. I've modded some lunch pack insolator bags quite nicely
to fit some of my gear in. I backpacked a month in the tropics this
way, and never really got people staring at me this way. Not only
that, but these bags keeps you gear cool, which is essential in hot
weather.

4) You can use an inverted 50mm bright lens on another lens to make
a quick cheap macro

5) You can use paper on the end of your camera for a quick on board
flash diffuser. : )

6) If you think you've nailed a shot, take at least another because
you might have missed it

7) Take loads of shots, and don't gimp out on storage

8) Shoot in RAW all the time if you have the time. If you don't
want to shoot all the time, consider shooting RAW in difficult
lighting situations, when your subject could blow highlights easily
(like a swan in the sun), or for purposefully underexposing to gain
shutterspeed.

9) Don't be afraid to get nailed with critiques. If you are too
thin skinned, you won't learn some important lessons and
techniques. Far too many people go on these forums for the sake of
having their egos stroked. If an issue is raised or they suggest
something, go with it.

10) Read books and learn from others. You can always do better.
I've got such a long ways to go before I'll be happy, and even then
I'll need some work.

I could go on, but I'll shuddap for now.

Brian
timjenner said:
I'm sure that others, like me, admire and aspire to achieve the
quality of photos that professionals manage and to the inspiring
images we see so often posted here. Much of the quality is, of
course, having a photographic eye - but much of it also stems from
well honed and practiced technique. I'm not talking photographic
technique here (exposure compensation, focusing etc) which are
covered elsewhere, but more practical things.

So, could any pros or advanced amateurs let us in on your tips for
success? Anything from basics like how you hold your camera (e.g.
left hand cupped under lens, palm supporting body) to get the most
stable shots to handy things you've learned in the field.

To kick things off, a problem I always find when walking around is
how to carry the camera. If I'm not shooting, I put the strap over
my right shoulder with the front of the camera facing my body and
the lens resting against the base of my back. This is fine, but it
means taking the strap off my shoulder to get the camera to my eye
for a shot - not good for that quick candid! Any better ways? If
I just have the strap around my neck and the camera on my front it
bumps off my beer belly when I walk! :)

Cheers,
Tim.
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Graphic Design Directory: http://www.adigitaldreamer.com
My Portfolio: http://skulpt.com
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--
http://www.pbase.com/philipsmith
 
Here's a great little tip I remember reading - can't remember where. If you've got a larger bodied model, get them to stand quarterways on with their leading foot forward (so they're kind of leaning back a bit with their top half), it really slims them down, apparently.
Doc Tonic said:
I shoot mostly indoors in a videography studio with good lighting,
I am not as good at shooting outdoors, sunsets, night shots,
landscapes etc. I would love to learn how some pros set their
camera for things like:

1. Sunsets: aperature, exposure, iso, where to meter at?
2. Night shots of cities on tripod, again, what camera settings?
3. landscape shots, what type of DOF? Do you focus the traditional
2/3rds the way out?

Now for my contribution:

Here is my tip for full body portraits shot in a studio type of
setting. One of the most important tip nowadays is planning ahead
of time to use photoshop. For example, when shooting an individual
that is a little heavier or a woman who wants a little off the hips
or more on other areas, shoot on a solid surface backdrop and have
her at least 5 feet away from it. This way when you take the image
to photoshop, you can easily apply the liquify filter and using
subtle nudges with the push tool you can easily do some soft body
sculpting. One of the best portrait lenses is the 50mm 1.8 and is
only $100 bucks. The 100mm 2.8 and the 85 1.8 are also great for
portraits. My last little portrait tip is to always try and use a
hair light. Most people forget about this and you lose detail in
the hair and it ends up looking unprofessional. If you don't have
access to a boom light, just have someone hold a small flashlight
and shine it on the person's hair, you'll be surprised at how much
better the photo turns out. Light reflecting into the subjects face
also can do wonders for a portrait. Reflectors can be bought for
$10 and can make a world of a difference in your photography.
Click to expand...
--
http://www.pbase.com/philipsmith
 
timjenner said:
I'm sure that others, like me, admire and aspire to achieve the
quality of photos that professionals manage and to the inspiring
images we see so often posted here. Much of the quality is, of
course, having a photographic eye - but much of it also stems from
well honed and practiced technique. I'm not talking photographic
technique here (exposure compensation, focusing etc) which are
covered elsewhere, but more practical things.

So, could any pros or advanced amateurs let us in on your tips for
success? Anything from basics like how you hold your camera (e.g.
left hand cupped under lens, palm supporting body) to get the most
stable shots to handy things you've learned in the field.

To kick things off, a problem I always find when walking around is
how to carry the camera. If I'm not shooting, I put the strap over
my right shoulder with the front of the camera facing my body and
the lens resting against the base of my back. This is fine, but it
means taking the strap off my shoulder to get the camera to my eye
for a shot - not good for that quick candid! Any better ways? If
I just have the strap around my neck and the camera on my front it
bumps off my beer belly when I walk! :)

Cheers,
Tim.
Click to expand...
--
Pixelitus Maximus
 
put the kitlens on the camera. take the 50mm in your hand, turn it the wrong way around and put it infront of the kit lens, so that there is no crack between them. see thru the viewfinder and gasp.

DOF is very thin thou. try it at 18mm on the kit. i shoot a 3 mm part of a coin and it's now all over my 19" monitor.

you can get rings to attach the 50mm to other lenses reversed.
mf said:
s k u l p t said:
4) You can use an inverted 50mm bright lens on another lens to make
a quick cheap macro
Click to expand...
--
Photography - The Poetry of Light
Nikon D70 - My Pen
http://forbesweb.typepad.com/photoblog/ - D70 PhotoBlog
http://forbesweb.typepad.com/photos/nikon_d70_/
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I think for most times (and depending on what you're trying to shoot too) a great shot must be simple in terms of objects and color. Not too many objects and not too many colors. Objects shouldn't be "lonely" and have kind of a world of their own in the same photo. Everyting should compliment everything else. Try to picture a shot as a wireframe first, to see what kind of geometrical objects you are getting. From there you can move them around by finding a better composition.

Usually 2-3 colors work well. That's why many people enjoy black and white. This adds simplicity to the picture - which is a good thing. A photo where you don't know where to put your eye, is usually a bad one.

I think a garbage can idea is a great idea. A good way to learn. To learn you have to think...that's why taking thousands of shots with no thinking does very little good. Yes, you'll get great shots, but then, even a monkey with so many shots could have done that. If the guys at National Geographic take 30000 shots, then this is probably because they photograph animals, which are kind of not very responsive to your posing directions.
 
Odessa said:
I think for most times (and depending on what you're trying to
shoot too) a great shot must be simple in terms of objects and
color. Not too many objects and not too many colors. Objects
shouldn't be "lonely" and have kind of a world of their own in the
same photo. Everyting should compliment everything else. Try to
picture a shot as a wireframe first, to see what kind of
geometrical objects you are getting. From there you can move them
around by finding a better composition.
Click to expand...
One other thing to do is try to see what "rules" like the rule of thirds are really trying to accomplish.

It's not that a subject can't look good at the center of the picture, it's that if you cram the subject into the center (and fill the frame with it) you don't get any context and you've just got yet another tree. Capture it sitting in a wild-flower filled field, or next to a garbage dump, depending on the desired context, and you've got a more interesting photo.

Don't think of it with weird artsy terms like negative space or anything. Everything, if useful, can be explained in plain terms. There's often something useful to the rules, but you might have to look a bit to find it and really understand it. And once you understand it, you know when to not use it.
 
William Night said:
It's not that a subject can't look good at the center of the
picture, it's that if you cram the subject into the center (and
fill the frame with it) you don't get any context and you've just
got yet another tree. Capture it sitting in a wild-flower filled
field, or next to a garbage dump, depending on the desired context,
and you've got a more interesting photo.
Click to expand...
Well...portraits are interesting. So I will disagree with you. I see nothing wrong with filling the whole pic with a subject. This is what I'm talking about:

http://www.imagestation.com/mypictures/inbox/view.html?id=4171247572&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.imagestation.com%2Fpicture%2Fsraid117%2Fp4b318a1fdc838a8efb25e35ef6d17b40%2Ff8a02fd4.jpg&caption=Alexei%26Natasha23
 
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