The Convenience Factor: Faster Glass and Adding Flash

Kasuobes

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Note: there is no substitute for using larger apertures when it comes to shallow DoF and bokeh, or if using a flash isn’t appropriate.


Note 2: the fastest glass in the world wouldn’t help if the lighting is so poor that even high ISO and slow shutter speeds can’t produce good exposure.



I purchased my OM-3 with the 12-45/4 about a month ago in my quest for a lightweight but capable, weather-sealed setup for shooting in the rain. My 12-45/4 is tack sharp as expected from all its glowing reviews, but I still had reservations about its relatively slow F4 aperture. Yes I have my fast tiny primes, but what good will they be if I cannot use them in the rain?


My other options for weather-sealed zooms were the hefty Pana F1.7 twins (anti-micro 4/3rds), other F2.8 zooms which were still significantly less portable than the 12-45/4, and slower zooms like the 12-60mm and 14-150mm. My (perhaps unfounded) opinion is that if F4 is too slow for a particular situation, one more stop at F2.8 wouldn’t make much of a difference and I would much rather use my fast primes.


Good lighting make good photos. I quickly realised while I can rely on fast glass to compensate for low ambient lighting, there are too many situations where faster glass wouldn’t be of much use, like backlit subjects or simply insufficient ambient light. My solution almost came too late as GAS reared its ugly head and I went window-shopping. Then I found and picked up a used FL-LM3 flash for the equivalent of $35 USD.

It's a lot smaller than it appears, and only 52g to boot.
It's a lot smaller than it appears, and only 52g to boot.

White card is exactly credit card-sized.
White card is exactly credit card-sized.

Controllable light source with bouncing at my whim, check. Tiny and lightweight at 52 grams, check. Doesn’t need any batteries or recharging, check. Weather-sealed on top of all that, oh yes. I also rigged up a small bounce card (random white card and hairband I had lying around) and a black foam snoot (courtesy of Neil van Niekerk) for the low cost of nothing but 5 minutes of digging around my boxes of random junk. Simple and elegant, and a whole lot more practical than continuing the search for infinitely fast glass made of lightweight unobtainium.

A crude but simple example showing a typical usage for the tiny bugger:

Exposing for the background without flash.
Exposing for the background without flash.

Exposing for the subject without flash.
Exposing for the subject without flash.

Best of both worlds with flash.
Best of both worlds with flash.

There are of course limitations to using a flash, namely in situations where sudden flashes of light isn’t appropriate (eg. candid street photography) or where using flash is pointless (eg. landscapes, birding). Fast telephoto lenses like the 35-100/2.8 and 40-150/2.8 still serve a very valuable purpose at gathering as much light as possible at long ranges, but it seems to me the tiny FL-LM3 is perfect for working with lenses up to 45mm (perhaps a bit longer too, but I haven’t tried using it beyond 45mm). The 12-45/4 becomes significantly less disadvantaged in low light situations, and I can keep my kit lightweight without being burdened by heavier fast glass.


Enough of my overly long tangent. Keeping in mind that fast glass and flash usage aren’t mutually exclusive (eg. blurring out the background while overpowering the sun), how do users here balance between chasing after faster glass and finally submitting to using flash?
 
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The FL-LM3 is a handy wee gadget , I have two the one that came with my E-M5III and one I bought for my OM-1 . It is not the most powerful flash in the world but it is so tiny it just lives in the bottom of the smallest bag just in case you need it

I even did the old Dremel adjustment :-) so that I can use it on my GX8
 
I have the same flash. It helps when the subject matter is close. I still prefer my fast primes for shooting indoors … museums, church's, old houses, etc. where the space is larger and often flashes are not allowed.

I have been considering trying this flash with my recent interest in macro photography while hiking. Typically mushrooms, rocks, moss, etc. The benefits of the flash previously mentioned make it an easy decision to always bring

Could you post a pic of the scoop you created? Thx
 
For me, there aren't many reasons to have faster glass if an f/4 version is available for less money and smaller mass. I do have an excellent f/1.4 lens in case I want that capability, but mostly I have to force myself to use it just to justify having bought it. I also have several flashes and use them occasionally when the situation calls for it, especially macro and close-up. The little FL-LM3 is a marvel but the others are much less convenient to set up and use. Based on many years of experience, most of the time for all genres I'm good with f/4 or narrower in ambient light including interiors and night scenes.

However, I understand why someone may use wider apertures to get the shutter speed or the background blur they need or want and flash may not be the option that they choose.
 
I have the same flash. It helps when the subject matter is close. I still prefer my fast primes for shooting indoors … museums, church's, old houses, etc. where the space is larger and often flashes are not allowed.

I have been considering trying this flash with my recent interest in macro photography while hiking. Typically mushrooms, rocks, moss, etc. The benefits of the flash previously mentioned make it an easy decision to always bring

Could you post a pic of the scoop you created? Thx
It's a crude and somewhat ugly setup, but it works well enough for me. I like to think it adds a certain retro clobbered-together charm to the OM-3.



The bounce card makes it disproportionately tall!
The bounce card makes it disproportionately tall!



 Closer look of the bounce card. The flash can still swivel and tilt in all directions.
Closer look of the bounce card. The flash can still swivel and tilt in all directions.



Black foam snoot, mounted in front of the flash head instead of behind.
Black foam snoot, mounted in front of the flash head instead of behind.



 Rear view of the half snoot.
Rear view of the half snoot.



Can also be unfolded into a full snoot for directional lighting!
Can also be unfolded into a full snoot for directional lighting!
 
The FL-LM3 is a handy wee gadget , I have two the one that came with my E-M5III and one I bought for my OM-1 . It is not the most powerful flash in the world but it is so tiny it just lives in the bottom of the smallest bag just in case you need it

I even did the old Dremel adjustment :-) so that I can use it on my GX8
I too have thought about preemptively sanding down the lip of the FL-LM3, just in case I ever get to use it on a Pana body. Haven't had the courage for permanent modifications yet though.

On the other hand, maybe I'd rather get a compatible flash cord for off-camera flash capabilities instead.
 
For me, there aren't many reasons to have faster glass if an f/4 version is available for less money and smaller mass. I do have an excellent f/1.4 lens in case I want that capability, but mostly I have to force myself to use it just to justify having bought it. I also have several flashes and use them occasionally when the situation calls for it, especially macro and close-up. The little FL-LM3 is a marvel but the others are much less convenient to set up and use. Based on many years of experience, most of the time for all genres I'm good with f/4 or narrower in ambient light including interiors and night scenes.

However, I understand why someone may use wider apertures to get the shutter speed or the background blur they need or want and flash may not be the option that they choose.
For me, I mainly use my fast primes for their size and weight advantages. As compact as the 12-45mm F4 may be, it still weighs a good 100g more than each of my primes and sticks out much farther.

That being said, I still find use for the 12-45mm F4 as a specialty lens primarily for its weather-sealing. Throw in the FL-LM3 and I figure I'm all set for all-weather shooting.
 
I’m pretty attached to my FL-LM3 too, but I sense from your example that you are a jpeg shooter?

A
 
At the moment yes, I mainly shoot JPEG to take advantage of the SOOC color profiles without having to tinker around in Workspace. I do keep RAW files as well in case I get some really good keepers worthy of going through DXO, but by and large I'm usually satisfied with SOOC results.

I learned quickly that friends and family these days just couldn't be arsed to wait a day or two for me to PP my RAW files to perfection. They see me taking photos and they will want the instant gratification of getting copies right there and then in the middle of the street. SOOC is another convenience that grew on me, the color profiles available on the E-P7 and OM-3 are definitely enabling me on that front.
 
At the moment yes, I mainly shoot JPEG to take advantage of the SOOC color profiles without having to tinker around in Workspace. I do keep RAW files as well in case I get some really good keepers worthy of going through DXO, but by and large I'm usually satisfied with SOOC results.

I learned quickly that friends and family these days just couldn't be arsed to wait a day or two for me to PP my RAW files to perfection. They see me taking photos and they will want the instant gratification of getting copies right there and then in the middle of the street. SOOC is another convenience that grew on me, the color profiles available on the E-P7 and OM-3 are definitely enabling me on that front.
As a result of shooting landscape on multiple cameras, I can't be bothered to worry about jpeg settings across cameras and having to guesstimate highlight headroom left by jpeg metering.

It takes a trivial time to process for me, and I use the same workflow for every body. I guess it's where you put the effort.

I do sometimes process to jpegs in camera when a quick result is required but actually sending a batch from the day all at once seems to work for my family. They all use phones for instant results, so I'm more the photographer of record - no pressure! My older daughter is now interested in adding a "real camera" for travel memories etc. I can see this being a learning curve for both of us.

With the constraints jpeg shooting causes, you do need a flash more often, or you can adjust the tone curve in detail in camera for every shot.

Andrew
 
Enough of my overly long tangent. Keeping in mind that fast glass and flash usage aren’t mutually exclusive (eg. blurring out the background while overpowering the sun), how do users here balance between chasing after faster glass and finally submitting to using flash?
I pretty much exclusively use flash in a studio setting, where I’m typically using it to “bend space and time” for my conceptual nude photography - extreme light falloff (which is impractical using hot lights), freezing motion, etc. I do love shallow DoF, so ironically that means I sometimes will use ND’s to get in the right setting envelope. I’m typically fighting having too much power, even with my AD200’s.
My take with on-camera flash for casual photography is that it’s usually not worth the trouble. I think this primarily because I’m often photographing indoors, I prefer to balance ambient and flash exposures and so flash manufacturers steadfast insistence to keep using 5600K strobes instead of offering something in the tungsten realm means I’m not just worried about balancing exposures, I’m (even more) worried about balancing color temps. That means having my flashes setup to use gels, etc which is just, ultimately, too much trouble most of the time. I really wish Godox would take a tip from smartphone manufacturers and have dual-temp flashes, at a minimum.

That said, I am picking up the Godox iT30Pro since it comes in Silver to match vintage style bodies (lame, I know) and has wireless control over the rest of my Godox flashes. At $75, it’s kind of a no brainer even if I’m just using it as a transmitter. I’ll try a little on-camera flash in a stylized way, but I can’t imagine my opinion will be swayed in terms of the fussiness.

--
Sam Bennett
Instagram: @swiftbennett
 
The FL-LM3 is a handy wee gadget , I have two the one that came with my E-M5III and one I bought for my OM-1 . It is not the most powerful flash in the world but it is so tiny it just lives in the bottom of the smallest bag just in case you need it

I even did the old Dremel adjustment :-) so that I can use it on my GX8
I really like the FL-LM3 and have two of them as well. I never used either one in real life. I should have used it more often.

I keep coffee filters and a rubber band in my bag for diffusing.
 
I pretty much exclusively use flash in a studio setting, where I’m typically using it to “bend space and time” for my conceptual nude photography - extreme light falloff (which is impractical using hot lights), freezing motion, etc. I do love shallow DoF, so ironically that means I sometimes will use ND’s to get in the right setting envelope. I’m typically fighting having too much power, even with my AD200’s.
"Conceptual nude photography" ?
 
I pretty much exclusively use flash in a studio setting, where I’m typically using it to “bend space and time” for my conceptual nude photography - extreme light falloff (which is impractical using hot lights), freezing motion, etc. I do love shallow DoF, so ironically that means I sometimes will use ND’s to get in the right setting envelope. I’m typically fighting having too much power, even with my AD200’s.
"Conceptual nude photography" ?
Weird artsy nudes vs pornographic, thoughtless nudes?
 
I very, very rarely use flash, and then only for macro when it's unavoidable; I do have a couple of small flashes for that. On the other hand, I use fast lenses very frequently, mainly for live music in often quite dimly-lit spaces where flash is totally unacceptable. Sometimes one needs 6400 ISO to get a barely usable shutter speed at f1.8 or better, but usually 3200 ISO at f2.8 will do the job. Apart from aggravating everyone else, flashes annoy me too so I prefer to avoid their use, and for non-moving objects dual IS with the 12-100 f4 usually does the trick; I dislike carrying tripods too. That "anti-M4/3" PL 25-50 f1.7 is on my list to acquire eventually...
 

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