Soft focus on S2 - image included

[Stoker98]

Apparently its very common with all the F80 based cameras (including D50, D100, S2 &c.).

Read this thread and you will find the links that explain how to fix it.
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1020&message=20745304

The explanations that accompany the pictures are rather overdone in terms of words and complications. Just download the chart, and experiment. Its not that hard, but you need to be very careful not to drop the allun key onto the sensor.

If you are too scared to do it, I managed to find a third party camera repair company who would do it for £50 (about $90). Its a simple task for a camera repair co, so it doesn't need to go to Fuji, and they tend to charge extra for adding warrenty, etc.

I hope this helps.

S.
--
Wait, watch, listen, then pounce !

 

[pattir7]

Thank you Tim! I printed out the test sheet and photographed the 1s and 0s at about 5 ft. (staight down) in daylight at f2.8 and f4. I can't honestly decide if I think it is out of focus. I think I need to do it at an angle on smaller text to decide. How would I post those images so you can see what I mean? They are large files...

If I need to, open the camera and adjust, how do I get the mirror up and stay up without damaging it? Being so close to the sensor does make me nervous...but my hands are steady and I will of course be exceedingly careful. But any first hand tips would be appreciated.

As an aside, I looked over the specs on the D200 and I do understand how it achieves focus easier and faster... I don't necessarily care about easier or faster... I can live with that... but when the camera says it is in focus (as it did in my image), I darn welll expect to see individual hair! If I can get that with this camera, regardless of speed or ease (preferably at f2.8), I am happy. If it requires another lense, that is fine too... but I am not ready to part ways with my S2 as I have been so darned happy with it until now...

 

[BJN]

My S2 gave me a couple of years of accurate focusing, but it went out of adjustment. I fixed the problem myself by adjusting the mirror-stop cam (lots of trial and error to dial in the adjustment).

--
BJN

 

[John W.]

pattir7 wrote:
I've not had much luck with C-AF though because there is no focus
priority and the camera will 'fire' regardless of focus. Is there
a technique to actually take images this way and achieve focus?

I find that with C-AF if you lock onto the subject and follow it for a few seconds to get the C-AF working, then take a burst of 3 shots, you generally find that at least one is in good focus. However, I use a D2H for motor sport and usually only expect to achieve about 25% in good focus, so with an S2/3 perhaps 10% in focus would be considered good (I must use my S3 at the next meeting and see exactly how it performs).
Good luck.
--
John W
The only normal people are the ones you don't know very well....!!!

 

[MuMinded]

Wow.. I thnk I have this problem and will investigate it immediatly... This could be very good news for me as I am constantly getting images that have missed the focus mark.. I have not be hanging out in the Fuji SLR forum for a while now...I guess I missed this great information. I'm a pretty skilled guy with my fingers so I'm not afraid to take on something like this... I'm only worried that if I break any loc-tight that has been applied to these screws then they may be prone to coming loose in the future...

There is another issue with the S2 that my camera has to a degree....it is that the actual central focus sensor is not actually located under the center focus point. I have mapped this out by focusing on an small object, that is physically and contrast wise seperated from the background. With the camera mounted on a tripod I then move the camera slightly to see when the camera shifts focus to the background...using this techinque I realized that my focus sensor is actually located just a hair above where the center marks are...it's a small difference, but now that I know where it is I can compensate for it..

I have the same lens and have the same problem. This lens just
isn't sharp on the Fuji S2. I also shoot with a Sigma 70-200 2.8
and the images are razor sharp, so I know the Tamron is the
problem. I am hoping to replace it with a Tamron 28-75 2.8 which is
reputed to be a very sharp lens. You may also have to adjust the
focus on your camera. I was able to fix the backfocus on my S2
myself and now have an entirely new camera.
If you take your lens off and look inside the body, behind the
mirror on the right side you will see two allen head screws.The
front one is for focus point and the back one is for auto focus. If
you turn the front screw counter clockwise you move the focus point
forward. It only takes a very very slight adjustment to make a big
difference.
Find a small object and place it about 5 feet away on a level
surface and focus directly on it witha tripod. Photograph it at
about 45 degrees and download the photo to find out where the focus
point is. Do it a couple times to be sure of the focus point. If
the image is sharp at the point you focused on, then nothing is out
of whack. If the image is sharp forward or behind your focus point
then adjust the screw very slightly and take another picture to see
what your results are. It took me about an hour but it made a big
difference in the quality of my shots. I also adjusted the
autofocus a bit because my camera wouldn't focus at infinity, a
1/8th turn clockwise and it worked great.
I hope this helps. Drop me a line if you need more info
Tim

 

[pattir7]

Ok, so yesterday I had awesome sunlight to work with....so grabbed the camera and went to go photograph my subject (same subject as posted earlier). The light was so good, I was able to stop down to f13 and still get 1/500 or faster shutter speed. Same camera (S2), same Tamron 28-105 f2.8 lens.

I did a couple of portrait shots from about 5-7 feet away. Absolutely RAZOR sharp. I could have counted hairs and they are just as clear blown up 100%. Ok, so I am standing in the same place and I have someone chase the horse until he trots past the same place I took the portrait. Dynamic AF on, Closest subject priority back on, mode, Sharpness set to Hard. Same conditions as the portrait. The image is better but it is not as sharp as the portrait. I also tested to see if the camera can focus on just his body (black) while standing still. Again, razor sharp and I was impressed as I did not give the camera an 'edge' to focus on...just aimed at the center and shot.

It can't be the lens at this point, cause at f13, it really took an awesome portrait. Does anyone shoot action with the S2 successfully? If so, what am I doing wrong??

 

[Stoker98]

What focal lengths were you using?

I use a Tamron f2.8 and it revealed the backfocussing issue with my S2, especially at the wide end, and especially at wider apertures. But it was manifest in a minor way at all apertures.

If your lens is OK, and if your focus is locking on the subject, then its either handshake, or the subject moving, or its backfocussing. I would lay a bet its backfocussing.

S.
--
Wait, watch, listen, then pounce !

 

[pattir7]

What focal lengths were you using?

Oh goodness... I don't have access to the image right now. But, it was about midway through. Same position as the portrait that was RAZOR sharp.

I use a Tamron f2.8 and it revealed the backfocussing issue with my
S2, especially at the wide end, and especially at wider apertures.
But it was manifest in a minor way at all apertures.

If your lens is OK, and if your focus is locking on the subject,
then its either handshake, or the subject moving, or its
backfocussing. I would lay a bet its backfocussing.

If it were backfocussing, wouldn't that also show up in the portrait? At 1/500 or faster shutter speed, won't that pretty much eliminate handshake? But yes, the subject was moving...but not towards me or away from me as to effect focus. And at f13, 5-7 feet away I should have pretty darned good DOF....shouldn't I???

 

[Stoker98]

Whatever caused this problem, you need to check for backfocussing. It should not occur at f13, but I don't think you can rule it out completely. The images I was getting at all apertures from my Tamron f2.8 were not optimal until I corrected the backfocussing.

Look, there is no point in discussing this further until you have printed off leon goodman's chart and checked.
http://www.leongoodman.com/d70focus.html

Just print the chart, lay it flat on a window ledge, switch your camera to A metering, open up to f2.8, point your camera at the centre at an angle of roughly 45% and take a shot (as marked). Your picture will show whether your camera is affected or not. Better still, try using a Nikon 50mm f1.8, which will bring out the problem even more.

At least then you will know a bit more about how your camera is performing. Of four DSLRs I have checked using this method, three were backfocussing to a greater or lesser extent. The repair company I use says this is typical ! You cannot use an f2.8 lens properly on a Fuji or any Nikon or Canon DSLR without first making sure that the AF is correctly adjusted.

S.
--
Wait, watch, listen, then pounce !

 

[T Elliott]

Hey That's cool too. I never thought of that and will give that a try. Adjusting the settings on my focus made an awful lot of difference in the quality of my shots and in the number of keepers. I found as well that by shooting in continous mode it made up for camera shake during shutter release.

I don't think there is any lock tite on the adjusting screws. They are quite stiff and only require a very small amount of adjustment to make a big difference. I actually used a very small set of jewellers pliers to adjust the back screw as it was just too tight an area to reach with an allen key.

I was happy with my S2 before fixing the focus but now I love it to pieces. I can take a nice shot of a flower now and get the focus where I wanted it, and even figure skating shots are crisp.
Cool Idea on the view finder focus marks.
Have a good day.
TC

 

[T Elliott]

Hi Patti.

I tried using the number sheets for the test as well and didn't get anywhere so I used a small piece of jewellery on a couch with a rough texture fabric and was able to see more clearly where the focus point was.

As far as the lens goes I was disappointed that it didn't perform better since it was't cheap to buy, but when I compare shots from my Sigma 70-200 2.8 with those from my Tamron 28-105 2.8, taken straight out of the camera the difference is incredible. The colour is better on the Tamron shots but as far as focus speed and sharpness goes the Tamron doesn't hold a candle to the Sigma. The Tamron isn't a total write off by any means but a side by side comparison shows the difference. I know the techies will talk differences in focal length, etc, but in the real world a sharp pic is a sharp pic.
One of those things we find out the hard way I guess.
I think if you post a link for your photos they will be good to go.
Have a good day.
TC

 

[John W.]

pattir7 wrote:
At 1/500 or faster shutter speed, won't that pretty much
eliminate handshake? But yes, the subject was moving...but not
towards me or away from me as to effect focus. And at f13, 5-7
feet away I should have pretty darned good DOF....shouldn't I???

You don't say what F/L the lens is at but assuming 70mm and f12.7 (nearly f13) and 6' from the subject (between 5-7 feet), your DOF is only just over 1 foot. See http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html and do your own calculation.

I suspect it is a combination of subject movement, DOF and even some hand shake (perhaps try tripod or monopod).

--
John W
The only normal people are the ones you don't know very well....!!!

 

[pattir7]

I suspect it is a combination of subject movement, DOF and even
some hand shake (perhaps try tripod or monopod).

I REALLY doubt that 1/500s couldn't stop the forward movement of this subject. He was moving at a SLOW jog....heck, I jog faster than the shot I took yesterday. And yes, DOF is not 10 feet or something crazy like that... however, he was not moving even 1' from where I had taken a RAZOR sharp portrait. Hand shake, I might believe....

I need to do the backfocusing test...however, the fact that the camera/lens takes RAZOR sharp portraits at the same focal length, same aperature, same shutter speed, same everything (except the subject is not moving) leads me to believe it is not a backfocusing issue...

 

[John W.]

pattir7 wrote:
I REALLY doubt that 1/500s couldn't stop the forward movement of
this subject. He was moving at a SLOW jog....heck, I jog faster
than the shot I took yesterday. And yes, DOF is not 10 feet or
something crazy like that... however, he was not moving even 1'
from where I had taken a RAZOR sharp portrait. Hand shake, I might
believe....

I need to do the backfocusing test...however, the fact that the
camera/lens takes RAZOR sharp portraits at the same focal length,
same aperature, same shutter speed, same everything (except the
subject is not moving) leads me to believe it is not a backfocusing
issue...

Given the circumstances you have outlined, I argee that backfocus seems unlikely. Next thing I would try is to up the shutter speed. Perhaps try a number of shots at different shutter speed/aperature combinations and see the different results (up the ISO if necessary). Also try a series with C-AF vs S-AF

I think you are only going to resolve the problem by testing various options and combinations to see what works in this particular situation.
Don't give up
--
John W
The only normal people are the ones you don't know very well....!!!

 

[MuMinded]

I did this proceedure and found my S2 also out of adjustment on the back screw..(AF mirror) It took me about 45 minutes, taking my time to systematically work my way thru the process... I probably would have done it in half if I wasn't so pickey.... I kept doing micro adjustments until I got it spot-on.

Well, this has been a very informative and helpful thread for me... If nothing else it just increases my confidence level that I can now go out and capture tack sharp images..

Brgds,
Kerry

Hey That's cool too. I never thought of that and will give that a
try. Adjusting the settings on my focus made an awful lot of
difference in the quality of my shots and in the number of keepers.
I found as well that by shooting in continous mode it made up for
camera shake during shutter release.
I don't think there is any lock tite on the adjusting screws. They
are quite stiff and only require a very small amount of adjustment
to make a big difference. I actually used a very small set of
jewellers pliers to adjust the back screw as it was just too tight
an area to reach with an allen key.
I was happy with my S2 before fixing the focus but now I love it to
pieces. I can take a nice shot of a flower now and get the focus
where I wanted it, and even figure skating shots are crisp.
Cool Idea on the view finder focus marks.
Have a good day.
TC

 

[Stoker98]

I'm glad you had the nerve to try this. It made me nervous the first time I did it. But I have now adjusted my D100 and a D50 with no problems. Both are now brilliantly sharp, and my opinion of the D100 has gone up even more. What a fantastic camera it is; I am beginning to respect it more than my faithful S2!

I've had a problem with adjusting my S2 is that I could not get the hex key into a useful position to turn the back screw. I could insert it with the handle against the bottom of the lens opening (where I could not turn the key) but I could not insert it with the handle at the top. I've bought a second allun key today, and am hoping to bend it, so that I can get it to fit.

I am very excited at the prospect of tack sharp f2.8 images out of my S2, which is behaving like a poor old softy at present.

S.

--
Wait, watch, listen, then pounce !