Setting White Balance from a Target

I can’t recall Lightroom Classic ever setting the saturation numbers as high as you are reporting, either automatically on import or when using the auto button.

what camera, what camera settings are using, and what kind of subjects, and what is the lighting like?
 
I am not a beginner, but this seems like an appropriate place for this topic. I have been pretty confused trying to get a good white balance by using a white balance target, either using a white balance dropper tool in processing or setting a manual white balance in camera using a target. It has very consistently given me results that are much warmer than it should.
Actually, it's giving you much warmer (custon) white balance in outdoor shots, which are likely to be subject to a strong blue color cast from the blue sky. Thus, it's to be expected that in conditions where a general blue color cast is present, applying a white balance correction on a neutral subject such as a colorchecker gray patch, will cause the image colors to shift to the warmer colors.
I've gone out and specifically tested this several times over the years to the same results each time, but here I will present only a few examples of photos I still have easily accessible.

First, I would say that on the rare occasion it does seem to work decently.

Here is a photo I took to test at one point, this one with the white balance adjusted by me so the photo looks accurate to life:

21d8fe872dce4f16809df0ead20cb2bf.jpg

Here is the white balance set using the dropper tool on the target. It is very, very close to what Lightroom's Auto WB comes up with:

1634c8c2aef74cc7ae931903d1599579.jpg

This is perhaps slightly off from reality to my eye, but it's okay.
That's because the scenic lighting was not biased toward the blue. It was fairly neutral to begin with.

[snip]
Another attempt during one of my testing efforts:

c527ea83e8914a7caf9e46e286f339d5.jpg

5908b0ee7c0a4b22833ea1d1d2d4994f.jpg

This is the most egregious example. The others are at least... close in SOME way, maybe they would work for a given style, for instance. Here we just get something completely orange.
Let's take a closer look at the girl and the colorchecker without being biased by our perceptual expectations for what she should look like when photographed outside:

Left=Your uncorrected rendering; Middle=Your custom WB rendering using the colorchecker; Right=my correction to your custom WB rendering
Left=Your uncorrected rendering; Middle=Your custom WB rendering using the colorchecker; Right=my correction to your custom WB rendering

With the scenic context missing, I think that most viewers would consider the Left rendering above to be to cold, the Middle rendering to be to warm and the Right rendering to be about right. Note that the blue circles inside the Middle and Right renderings are from the corresponding positions in the colorchecker of the Left rendering. Since the RGB values for the Middle and Right colorcheckers are very close to neutral, you can clearly see now that the colorchecker in the Left rendering is subject to a relatively blue color cast (as is the girl). In the context of an outdoor shot, the blue color cast is acceptable because we mentally adjust for it and perceive the colorchecker as gray when, objectively, it's far from it. Likewise with the girl's skintone and the perceived color of the shirt. By correcting WB based on the colorchecker, the WB is warmed considerably to achieve the corrected white balance, but we now perceive the girl's skintone, etc. to be too warm. That's just the inherent challenge of white balance and any effort to "correct" it.

What about the difference between the Middle and Right rendering? I checked the file info for your renderings and saw that you applied a quite a bit of positive vibrance and saturation adjustments (in addition to other adjustments to punch up contrast). When you do that, any pre-existing color conditions will be exaggerated toward a warmer color balance. The Right rendering has unwound that exaggeration by an applied negative adjustment of vibrance and saturation to yield a rendering that's presumably closer to what would have been generated in ACR/LR without the push you added in the first place. The lesson here is to be careful with vibrance and especially with saturation if you're dealing with overall color balance problems.
I would have to check when I am at the computer with this photo again, but I don't believe I really did anything with vibrance or saturation with these and I almost never push the contrast about 5 at an absolute maximum. I don't quite remember but it is possible that when exporting these examples specifically for my post I added some because of some other discussion about this where people asked to see a more saturated version.
When I import photos Lr does set the saturation at +10 based on the camera settings, where I have the saturation pushed up by about the smallest amount it is possible to do so because otherwise I find things looking extremely, extremely flat and even to the point that even as a starting point for editing the RAW it's too lifeless. Lr's auto button, if I were to press it, will on as far as I can tell every photo set vibrance to +20 and saturation to +5, which I consider much too strong the vast majority of the time. I don't always use auto but I do usually press it at least once just to see what it looks like and in those cases where I generally like it or like it as a starting point I will almost always drop the vibrance back to 0 and put the saturation at +10, which looks just about right to me most of the time. If I do think a particular photo needs more color, I will usually wind up at saturation +15 and vibrance at +5 or something. In other words, I like to keep vibrance/saturation fairly reasonable 99% of the time.
Went back and checked file info again. The shot of the girl wearing the hat has a Vibrance setting of +20 and a Saturation setting of +21. That's the one I was thinking about when I described the push as "quite a bit". The images of the girl holding the colorchecker have Vibrance and Saturation settings of +5, so "quite a bit" was an overstatement with respect to those particular images. Apologies for that. I believe I reduced those settings to -7 in my "Right" rendering above, so that's probably reasonably close to what the vibrance/saturation would have been at Lightroom's default settings.

Since I haven't shot with Nikon cameras for many years and I usually don't use Lightroom (I'm an ACR/Photoshop guy), plus I don't know your specific workflow and presets, I won't speculate further about the other file info tags I'm seeing regarding the "Light" settings in your shots. Suffice it to say that none of them are by any means drastic or inappropriate. I frequently have pretty similar adjustments to my shots as well. Just bear in mind that "Color" panel adjustments (primarily "Saturation") in LR or ACR can quickly reveal/exaggerate unwanted color imbalances introduced in whatever WB setting is being used, and the more extreme your "Light" adjustments are, the more likely WB problems will become apparent as well.
 
I can’t recall Lightroom Classic ever setting the saturation numbers as high as you are reporting, either automatically on import or when using the auto button.

what camera, what camera settings are using, and what kind of subjects, and what is the lighting like?
I shoot a Z8 and Z9 in overcast outdoor lighting, sunny lighting, backlit lighting, shaded lighting, blue hour lighting. I shoot a lot of outdoor stuff with off camera flash. I shoot indoor with natural window lighting, LED lighting, CFL and standard fluorescent lighting, bounced speedlight, and off camera flash. I shoot thousands of shots per month. In all of this lighting and any I have forgotten Lightroom Classic's auto button invariably and without exception sets the vibrance to +20 and the saturation to +5 or it sets them to very similar numbers.

When I shot with a Z7ii it did the same. When I shot with a D500 it did the same. It did the same to my D5600 shots as far as I recall.

I have in the past month also reset my Lightroom preferences as well as completely uninstalled and reinstalled it and the behavior has not changed. Occasionally I will have a job which is time sensitive and I will download the RAWs to my phone and edit with Lightroom mobile and the auto on my phone also sets vibrance and saturation to these values.

I just pulled up a few unedited photos on my phone and did hit auto in LR, nothing else.

I did some checking and with all of these photos I found that if I leave them in Lr in the "Adobe Color" profile the auto will go to Vibrance +15 and Saturation +2 or something close, whereas if I put them in the Camera Matching Standard Profile (these are all using my old, NON modified "Standard") they go to Vibrance +20 and Saturation +5 or +6 or similar.

Adobe Color. Bounce Flash.
Adobe Color. Bounce Flash.



Camera Matching Standard
Camera Matching Standard



Adobe Color. Natural Light.  Sunny Winter day in open shade.
Adobe Color. Natural Light. Sunny Winter day in open shade.



Camera Matching Standard
Camera Matching Standard





Adobe Color. Bright day under a tent.
Adobe Color. Bright day under a tent.



Camera Matching Standard.
Camera Matching Standard.



I currently shoot with a slightly modified version of the camera's "Standard" profile on these cameras. Up until a couple of months ago I shot with the normal, out-of-the-box "Standard" profile. I have in the past used the camera's "Neutral" and "flat" profile, but I have always found those to look far, far too desaturated. The "Vivid" profile is oversaturated to me. The "Landscape" profile is too hit or miss for me. Standard I always found the most pleasing, but after experimenting I did increase the saturation value in the camera's standard profile by a very small amount (I forget exactly how much) because it yields results that to me most closely approximate what I am actually looking at with my eyes. Importing into Lr with the option to honor camera settings, Lr sets the texture, clarity, saturation, sharpening, contrast, and noise reduction sliders to different things depending on the camera profile, and it chooses the appropriate camera matching color profile. I do not use Active D-Lighting, but if I do turn it on then Lr will import with the exposure, highlights, and shadow sliders also adjusted to produce results that are as close as possible to what Nikon's Active D-Lighting algorithm writes to the EXIF in the NEF files.

With the out-of-the box "Standard" profile, Lr sets Texture to +8 and Clarity to +4 on import. Having adjusted the profile's saturation up by a small amount (I think it is something like 7.5% of the maximum possible adjustment) LrC also sets saturation to +10 on import.
 
Just bear in mind that "Color" panel adjustments (primarily "Saturation") in LR or ACR can quickly reveal/exaggerate unwanted color imbalances introduced in whatever WB setting is being used, and the more extreme your "Light" adjustments are, the more likely WB problems will become apparent as well.
Dehaze is another LrC setting that, beyond +5 or thereabouts, will shift an image's hue noticeably toward the red.

When I had a go with a couple of the OP's photos, I found that using the subject's eye as a reference for the eye dropper tool gave a pleasing result...white sclera and just a touch of warmth in the flesh tones.

--
Bill Ferris Photography
Flagstaff, AZ
 
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Just bear in mind that "Color" panel adjustments (primarily "Saturation") in LR or ACR can quickly reveal/exaggerate unwanted color imbalances introduced in whatever WB setting is being used, and the more extreme your "Light" adjustments are, the more likely WB problems will become apparent as well.
Dehaze is another LrC setting that, beyond +5 or thereabouts, will shift an image's hue noticeably toward the red.

When I had a go with a couple of the OP's photos, I found that using the subject's eye as a reference for the eye dropper tool gave a pleasing result...white sclera and just a touch of warmth in the flesh tones.
I have tried using the eyes for this in the past and it is one of the things I try if I'm having trouble finding a pleasing white balance as it works sometimes, but even though it's one of the more reliable things to try, "reliable" is quite relative here and so most of the time it gives results which are not really great. For instance, I was just working on some stuff now and taking WB from the eyes was yielding very, very green results.
 

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