Scanning Slides...

Perfection Photo series Scanner. I have two and they work great-semi automatically and fast. Excellent results. You can scan slides while watching football/baseball on TV as it requires only sporatic attention. The lowest model Epson Perfection is only about $129 and works great. Well worth it.

--mamallama
 
Of the 30,000 slides I will probably scann less than half of them. As for storage I will save them to my hard drive first then when I get enough to fill a cd I will burn theose, then when I have enough to fill a dvd I will burn those. I am also saving all my pictures to 2 different exterior drives.

Gotta cover all the bases.

Thanks.
 
thanks you for the excellent advice and the sources. I am going to look at a Nikon scanner this weekend.

Captain America
 
A few others suggested that 600dpi is too low to scan a slide. I just used it as a starting point per the instructions that came with the scanner.

Captain America
 
I am thinking per suggestions that the easiest way to scan my slides is to buy a dedicated scanner with an automatic feeder. And setting the dpi above 2500.

Thanks to everyone for the help.

Captain America
 
I have a Microtek S430,not sure if this is the same model as yours,this scans negatives or slides at 4800 ppi,I cannot comment on quality as I have not used it for that purpose yet.It says that this produces a 6meg file. My guess is that if it is supplied with a film carrier then it is capable of at least 2400ppi.I assume that you are using the advanced control panel to set up for scanning.the standard control panel only allows for 600ppi .
--
Frank Perry
 
if you get the nikon v, that's a 131mb a file. that is 5 scans to the cd. the coolscan v is 4000dpi. that accounts for the large file size. the nikon also comes with full digital ice, to remove problems in the slides when you scan. the only post processing i seem to do on the resulting scan file is a very small crop to get rid of the resulting 4 curved corners that were in the original slide.

good luck.
 
I assume the 400 is similar to the 430. I do use the advanced panel to scan my slides. I am going to try to scan the same slides at 2400 to see if it makes a difference.

Thanks
 
Hi Jay,

I am retired with lots of time. Like you I have boxes and boxes of slides, both 35 mm and 2-1/4sq.

A couple of years ago I decided to put these slides on a CD for use by all the much younger family members. The plan is to provide a CD or CD's to each family.

Not having lots of money and a big time tinker at heart I decided to copy these slides with my Oly c-3020z camera. So if you look at my pbase gallery at http://www.pbase.com/paulm2/old_slides_copies you will see some of my work and a picture of my setup.

Now my setup has been critique by others, especialy why did I hack up an antique lunch Box, but it works very well and all my copies are as sharp as the original. With some of the slides that have not aged well, the copies after PP are even better.

Now as I have mentioned, I have been doing this for awhile and here are a couple of observations. The 35mm Kodachrome slides seem to have gone thru the years the best. All the other brands seem to have a redish cast or a blueish cast. Of the 2-1/4 slides, Extrachrome is the winner in the aging process. I process all my copies in PSE2 and have restored some with very ugly casts.

I was a beta tester for Kodak way back when color slides first hit the market, so my slides start back in the 40's. To date after two years, I am up to 1971, so I have a way to go, but I do copies for awhile, fill up a memory card, transfer to the computer and then when the mood stikes me, I do the PP and file name bit. When I think I have enough to fill a CD, I burn a CD, but all are kept as a copy off the computer as a backup. I am in no hurry and this winter I will do a bunch more.

Before you start doing any copy work either with a scan or a digital picture, may I suggest that you put in place your preference for a file naming process. As I mentioned before, my intent is to pass these CDs on to various family members, so all the file names are descriptive by picture content, they are in a descriptive family name folder and sorted by date.

Believe me this is the hardest part of the job. Lucky for me I have a brother who knows all the family members and he is the person I stand next to at family functions like weddings, funerals etc. Not much help with old pictures of friends though.

Be glad to help you in any way I can and if you want, send me an email. The address is in my profile.

Paul
 
Nicely done.
I tried a similar set up.

Your slides, except one example with a few specs of dust, are extremely clean. My old slides have been projected so many times there is just too much dust on them and trying to clean them with anti-static brush or small air sprayer have not been very productive. So I finally gave up and used the Epson 4870 scanner with the Kodak Digital Ice software to clean the dust.
 
Thank you Paul... I like your copy setup. What sort of lighting did you use in the lunch box ?

for my naming procedure I use the same as I do for my digital pictures

2006-09-27 0000 Name of picture

I have found this to be the best naming procedure because it stores the pictures according to date. The 0000 keeps them in order on the date shot.

I figure that it will take me a couple years to scan and PP the slides. Good thing I'm retired.

Captain America
 
The lunch Box has two 40w "daylight" bulbs and is lined with crumpled alum foil . The center opening is a piece of frosted glass and is big enough to expose for the 2-1/4 slides. Slides are positioned by two popsickel sticks held in place with elect. tape. The camera WB is set for Tungsten. The light source needs to be uniform across the slides for a good copy.

Pro's-- Cheap setup and if you look at the exif data on the pictures you will see that there is plenty of light. Works very well even on under exposed original slides.

Con's--- The bulbs get very hot so after 40-50 slides a rest stop is necessary. But thats OK as I am in no hurry.

Next version will have maybe a strobe light source? I have stayed away from a fan as I use a lens dust brush on all my selected to be copied slides . I usualy sort out the slides first from the boxes they were in, dust them and then move them to the table that has the copy/camera. I close the box the slides were in and set the to be copied slides on top. When I have various piles I start the copy process. This way the copied slides can go back to their original boxes.

The c-3020 has a little know feature for doing copy work at about 2". ( a hidden macro feature?) I found this out at the Jay Arraich's Photoshop Elements Tips site. I do not have the uRL handy. I set the focus with a slide in place and a magnifier. Then all the pictures are at the same focus point. No need to re-focus.

I use an el-cheapo line level to level up the box in setup and then with the camera in place, I set its level from the LCD. Simple but very effective.

The picture with the dust specs on it was done in a hurry for a friend who was doing an article of the Ford Tri-Motor airplane. Should have spent a bit of time on the original slide before I took the picture or a bit of time in PP. Oh well.

I have tried another of my cameras, a c-7000z in place of the c-3020z as the c7000z is 7.1mp and the c-3020 is 3.2mp. But keeping in mind that these pictures will be viewed via a monitor and not printed to poster size the 3.2mp was just fine. Besides the setup I have with the c3020z is second nature to me by now.

Good luck with your project.

Paul
 
I recently decided it was time to start scanning the better / more
important slides and burning them to cd / dvd for preservation.

I have a Microtec Scanmaker S400 scanner that came with a slide /
negative attachment.
I put them into the attachment and
used the Microtec software to scan them at 600dpi.
You are in error if you think that digitizing your slides is "preservation". There is no indication that CD's or DVD's will last as long as the color dyes in well processed, dark stored color slides. Rather, scanning and digitization are a convenient way to adjust, retouch and prepare for printing those slides that you wish to make high-quality prints from.

Also, to even remotely get the full detail present in properly focused, well exposed color slides you need a dedicated film scanner with 4000dpi optical resolution.

McCluney Commercial Photography
 
I use that scanner at work and I can vouch for it, however should you happen to have mostly Kodachrome slides, you need to set it to the Kodachrome setting, which still can't deal with under exposed slides barely at all, and automatically turns off the dust and scratch removal.
For E-6 slides though it's great, especially with the 50 slide feeder.
 
However every 5 years or so you could make new copies of those digitized images with no loss whatsoever, you'd probably want to do that at least every 10 yrs anyway since various media will become obsolete, but if you do take that step, in theory you're images will late an eternity.

Also the above mentioned Nikon slide scanner is a 4000 dpi scanner, and I too recommend that sort of resolution.
 
I wouldn't bother scan them unless you need to make a print from a certain trany.

You'll wear yourself out. Kept dry and at the right temperature the slides will last a lifetime. And if they don't, will your ancestors worry as you push up daisies?
Jules

--
Black holes do not destroy information.
 
I have to agree with Petteri. It's extremely laborious and you don't get as crisp of an image as you will get with your camera. I spent many hours post processing each image. UGH. Were I to do it again, I would use my camera with a slide attachment.
Scanning that many slides on any scanner is extremely laborious.
Scanning them on an inexpensive 600 dpi desktop scanner with a
slide back is also a waste of time: even if you get them in focus,
you'll only get a fraction of the density range and very low
resolution.

In other words, if you're ready to invest the hundreds of hours of
work needed to do the job, do it properly.

My suggestion is not to use a scanner at all. Instead, use a
digital camera. I assume you have a dSLR since you post a lot in
the Nikon forums. So, use that. There are a number of ways in which
you can go about it.

(1) Get a dedicated slide copier. I've used one from Soligor that
works rather nicely on a DX sized camera (although it gets pretty
soft in the corners on full-frame). Use either a flash or some
other white, controlled light source for lighting. Then all you
need to do is set up the camera on a tripod, take some test shots
to get the exposure and WB right, and blast away. It's much faster
than using a scanner, you'll be able to digitize more of the
density range, and resolution will only be somewhat lower (and much
higher than with the method you're currently using).

(2) Use a macro lens, copy stand (or tripod in a pinch), lightbox,
and some black cardstock. A dedicated macro lens is of
significantly better quality than, say, the Soligor I mention
above. However, you'll need to be a bit creative about solving the
focusing, positioning, and stability issues. For example, set up
the slides on a lightbox, set up a tripod on top of that, point the
camera down at it, make a funnel out of black cardstock to stop
stray light from polluting the image, and shoot. You'll need to use
much longer exposures than with a slide copier which will slow
things down a bit, but other than that it's just about as fast once
you get going, and the quality will be better.

Petteri
--
[ http://www.prime-junta.net/ ]
[ http://p-on-p.blogspot.com/ ]
--
Theresa K
http://theresak.smugmug.com/
 
The only archival backup that will survive is one that's regularly used. CD's and DVD's will rot, get lost, stepped on, left in the sun, and so on.

Make backups. On a hard disk. That you use daily. And another copy on another, external hard disk that you refresh at least a couple of times a year and store off-site. It's faster, cheaper, and much, much more reliable than juggling optical media.

Petteri
--
[ http://www.prime-junta.net/ ]
[ http://p-on-p.blogspot.com/ ]
 
Jay and Paul,

I also built a thingie to copy pix, But let me go back to the beginning...

I bought an HP4670 w/ slide adapter. Slide adapter produced blurry, OOF pix. The reason is obvious. The slide is located above the focal plane of normal documents! No amount of work will fix this design flaw. I think most of the document scanners with a slide attachment have this same problem. I complained to HP and they sent me a 2nd slide adapter. It worked exactly the same.

So I went to plan C. I modified the 2nd adapter to work as a slide illuminator. It was just an illuminator originally...had a small cold cathode flourescent bulb inside...I turned it over...and mounted an Aluminum guide to locate a slide.

I had an old enlarger mount. It was already setup with a 1/4-20 screw to hold the enlarger head...I just put my Nikon 5700 there. Used a CU lens on the camera to give more working distance and a flatter field. Voila!



The little CCF illuminator stays cool. ;-)
But it requires some long exposure times (like 1/50 sec)...

The real advantage of doing this with a DC, instead of a dedicated slide scanner, is that it's FAST! I can clean, position, and photograph about 4 slides/minute. :-)

I have not yet used my new R1 to copy slides. Doing this is mostly a winter job, so I'll try this winter.
The lunch Box has two 40w "daylight" bulbs and is lined with
crumpled alum foil . The center opening is a piece of frosted glass
and is big enough to expose for the 2-1/4 slides. Slides are
positioned by two popsickel sticks held in place with elect. tape.
The camera WB is set for Tungsten. The light source needs to be
uniform across the slides for a good copy.

Pro's-- Cheap setup and if you look at the exif data on the
pictures you will see that there is plenty of light. Works very
well even on under exposed original slides.

Con's--- The bulbs get very hot so after 40-50 slides a rest stop
is necessary. But thats OK as I am in no hurry.

Next version will have maybe a strobe light source? I have stayed
away from a fan as I use a lens dust brush on all my selected to be
copied slides . I usualy sort out the slides first from the boxes
they were in, dust them and then move them to the table that has
the copy/camera. I close the box the slides were in and set the to
be copied slides on top. When I have various piles I start the copy
process. This way the copied slides can go back to their original
boxes.

The c-3020 has a little know feature for doing copy work at about
2". ( a hidden macro feature?) I found this out at the Jay
Arraich's Photoshop Elements Tips site. I do not have the uRL
handy. I set the focus with a slide in place and a magnifier. Then
all the pictures are at the same focus point. No need to re-focus.

I use an el-cheapo line level to level up the box in setup and then
with the camera in place, I set its level from the LCD. Simple but
very effective.

The picture with the dust specs on it was done in a hurry for a
friend who was doing an article of the Ford Tri-Motor airplane.
Should have spent a bit of time on the original slide before I took
the picture or a bit of time in PP. Oh well.

I have tried another of my cameras, a c-7000z in place of the
c-3020z as the c7000z is 7.1mp and the c-3020 is 3.2mp. But keeping
in mind that these pictures will be viewed via a monitor and not
printed to poster size the 3.2mp was just fine. Besides the setup I
have with the c3020z is second nature to me by now.

Good luck with your project.

Paul
--
Charlie Davis
Nikon 5700 & Sony R1
CATS #25
PAS Scribe @ http://www.here-ugo.com/PAS_List.htm
HomePage: http://www.1derful.info
'I brake for pixels...'
 

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