s602 sharp picture

[ga-ga]

Hi Robin

Good point, what seems to be coming apparent is that the digital format is more sensitive to camera shake than 35mm .........??

we've been talking about making sure to use a shutter speed of between 1 over the focal length or half that..... but until you mentioned it I hadn't realised that the focal length is not easily determined by camera information before shooting - (so far as I know -only had it 2 weeks)
There are two devices to judge by tho........

1. keep an eye out for the shaking hand warning for camera shake on the right hand side of the viewfinder...........

2. work out the min shutter speed at each end of the zoom range (which is displayed in the pre-shot viewfinder info) and estimate a shutter speed between that range...
ie full WA = 35mm FL = min safe shutter speed of 1/70
full TELE = 210 = min safe shutter speed of 1/420
if you say half zoom the estimate 70+420=490 / 2 = 1/250
choosing selectable shutter speeds say
60 125 250 320 & 400 at each quarter mark of the full zoom range (optical)
try that and see how it goes...

I just checked where the shaking hand goes off by flicking though on shutter prio and it allows shutter speeds much slower than this - maybe we're getting over cautious........??
regards greg

Hi Greg
I've asked this a little lower down in this thread but it may have
got lost.

I was asking if you can determine the focal length before taking
the shot. With all the recent talk I've seen of 1/2 x focal
distance, I was trying to be sure of the settings before taking a
shot.

ga-ga wrote:

 

[Jeffrey Knapp]

Good question.

Also, can you give me your tips for taking landscape shots, late
evening to sunset. Mine appear to be very out of focus. What kind
of settings would you have for a wide sunset shot for example.

From my experience, using the special menu's "landscape" mode is VERY helpful. I usually shoot with sharpening on soft, and the built-in sharpening in this mode (or maybe it's something else?) really pulls out the details. Of course, a good tripod is essential. I also try to keep my ISO at 160, to keep the noise down, though shooting at 400 isn't too shabby, as long as you're faster than 1/2 a sec.

So, a sunset at ISO 160, manual focus at infinity(since digicams can get a bit wacky when they try to focus on their own at infinity - depends on the amount of contrast available), tripod, "landscape" and under 1 sec. should look good. (Of course, use review mode to zoom in on the first shot and check that things are sharp.) Hope this helps.

 

[yatho]

Can u tell me how to set the manual focus to infinity? thanks.

Also, can you give me your tips for taking landscape shots, late
evening to sunset. Mine appear to be very out of focus. What kind
of settings would you have for a wide sunset shot for example.

From my experience, using the special menu's "landscape" mode is
VERY helpful. I usually shoot with sharpening on soft, and the
built-in sharpening in this mode (or maybe it's something else?)
really pulls out the details. Of course, a good tripod is
essential. I also try to keep my ISO at 160, to keep the noise
down, though shooting at 400 isn't too shabby, as long as you're
faster than 1/2 a sec.
So, a sunset at ISO 160, manual focus at infinity(since digicams
can get a bit wacky when they try to focus on their own at infinity

• depends on the amount of contrast available), tripod, "landscape"

and under 1 sec. should look good. (Of course, use review mode to
zoom in on the first shot and check that things are sharp.) Hope
this helps.

 

[John Glover]

There are two devices to judge by tho........
1. keep an eye out for the shaking hand warning for camera shake on
the right hand side of the viewfinder...........
2. work out the min shutter speed at each end of the zoom range
(which is displayed in the pre-shot viewfinder info) and estimate a
shutter speed between that range...
ie full WA = 35mm FL = min safe shutter speed of 1/70
full TELE = 210 = min safe shutter speed of 1/420
if you say half zoom the estimate 70+420=490 / 2 = 1/250

Hi Greg,

Working out the approximate focal length is probably the best bet. I've always held to the 1/FL rule as well, but the smaller sensor size in a digital camera as well as the smaller optics and the increased need for sharper optics as well, really make me a believer in the 1/(2xFL) rule of thumb. As far as the camera shake warning goes, at least with my 6900, it seems to appear somewhere around 1/FL so to me it is not that reliable a guide.

The best way to ensure you have a fast enough shutter speed is to work in shutter priority mode, provided you have decent light. It does become difficult in low light situations due to the F/2.8 limitations of the lens. There are times when I dearly miss my Pentax 50mm at f/1.4! LOL

Another good work around when shooting with external flash is set your shutter speed high. since the 6900/602 will sync at any speed, I just crank the shutter up to 1/500th and shoot away with flash.
--
John

Fuji 6900Z, Fuji2600Z,
Pentax PZ-1p, Pentax ZX-M, Pentax MX, Oly Stylus
http://www.pbase.com/jglover

 

[Robin Mannering]

Hi Jeffrey, thanks for those tips, I will put all into practice on my next outing. I second what yatho asked too. How do you set to infity ???

Also, can you give me your tips for taking landscape shots, late
evening to sunset. Mine appear to be very out of focus. What kind
of settings would you have for a wide sunset shot for example.

From my experience, using the special menu's "landscape" mode is
VERY helpful. I usually shoot with sharpening on soft, and the
built-in sharpening in this mode (or maybe it's something else?)
really pulls out the details. Of course, a good tripod is
essential. I also try to keep my ISO at 160, to keep the noise
down, though shooting at 400 isn't too shabby, as long as you're
faster than 1/2 a sec.
So, a sunset at ISO 160, manual focus at infinity(since digicams
can get a bit wacky when they try to focus on their own at infinity

• depends on the amount of contrast available), tripod, "landscape"

and under 1 sec. should look good. (Of course, use review mode to
zoom in on the first shot and check that things are sharp.) Hope
this helps.

 

[ga-ga]

There are two devices to judge by tho........
1. keep an eye out for the shaking hand warning for camera shake on
the right hand side of the viewfinder...........
2. work out the min shutter speed at each end of the zoom range
(which is displayed in the pre-shot viewfinder info) and estimate a
shutter speed between that range...
ie full WA = 35mm FL = min safe shutter speed of 1/70
full TELE = 210 = min safe shutter speed of 1/420
if you say half zoom the estimate 70+420=490 / 2 = 1/250

Hi Greg,

Working out the approximate focal length is probably the best bet.
I've always held to the 1/FL rule as well, but the smaller sensor
size in a digital camera as well as the smaller optics and the
increased need for sharper optics as well, really make me a
believer in the 1/(2xFL) rule of thumb. As far as the camera shake
warning goes, at least with my 6900, it seems to appear somewhere
around 1/FL so to me it is not that reliable a guide.

The best way to ensure you have a fast enough shutter speed is to
work in shutter priority mode, provided you have decent light. It
does become difficult in low light situations due to the F/2.8
limitations of the lens. There are times when I dearly miss my
Pentax 50mm at f/1.4! LOL

Another good work around when shooting with external flash is set
your shutter speed high. since the 6900/602 will sync at any
speed, I just crank the shutter up to 1/500th and shoot away with
flash.
--
John

Fuji 6900Z, Fuji2600Z,
Pentax PZ-1p, Pentax ZX-M, Pentax MX, Oly Stylus
http://www.pbase.com/jglover

Hi John,
I just typed out a reply only to see it float off in the either.........!
so I'll start again.....

I'm undecided on the need for a tighter requirement on the digital format - I could see some argument for the oposite since wider lenses need less shutter to freeze .......!! I did work though the maths when I was doing A level maths and convinced myself of the 1/FL for 35mm but I can't remember the maths or logic now......

I have a feeling that the camera is capable of better sharpness than I'm getting so far but I'm still working on it..... I will be dissapointed if I conclude I need to carry round a hefty tripod to get acceptable results when the portability and instant-ability of digital is a big plus for the format....!!

People seem to moan a lot about the EVF in low light - but I think it fine - you do know you can turn up the brightness don't you....!!
I think your adrift on the last point ......... or maybe I'm out of date ...??

my understanding is that the duration of Electonic Flash is VERY short 1/10,000-20,000 sec. It is often used as a way of freezing motion faster than any camera shutter speeds... note water splash pics balls dropped in water/milk etc are nearly always flash pics - because that gives that necessary freeze....

Effectively it won't matter what shutter speed you use because the flash is so intense the backgound light won't register......unless you're using fill-in mode......

regards greg

 

[Robin Mannering]

Hi Greg,

I had an exhaustive look for the focal length on the camera but it's not there. Your below suggested method should be easy enough to follow and hopefully will lead to some better results in my shots. I'll be checking each time I shoot. Many thanks for the detailed info !

Cheers
RobinM

• maybe we're getting over cautious........??

regards greg

Hi Greg
I've asked this a little lower down in this thread but it may have
got lost.

I was asking if you can determine the focal length before taking
the shot. With all the recent talk I've seen of 1/2 x focal
distance, I was trying to be sure of the settings before taking a
shot.

ga-ga wrote:

 

[Jeffrey Knapp]

Can u tell me how to set the manual focus to infinity? thanks.

(Sorry, I'm at work right now and can't get to the manual for specifics.) What I usually do is first, find something with good contrast that is VERY far away. (side of a building/house, distant mountain, etc.) Then, I turn the ring until that focus indicator dot stays solid. Most important, after the first shot, assuming I have time, I switch to review mode, zoom in and check the focus. If I'm not confident, I'll take another shot after twisting the ring a bit. Then I compare them in review mode and see which is better. Once you figured out which direction you need to twist, you could even try again, just to be sure. I know it's a lot of work, but especially in the evening/at night, the autofocus gets lost easily.

I love my 602, but unfortunately the focus can take time to dial in. (but once you do - wow!)

 

[yatho]

Thanks very much! I will try that next time~~

Can u tell me how to set the manual focus to infinity? thanks.

(Sorry, I'm at work right now and can't get to the manual for
specifics.) What I usually do is first, find something with good
contrast that is VERY far away. (side of a building/house, distant
mountain, etc.) Then, I turn the ring until that focus indicator
dot stays solid. Most important, after the first shot, assuming I
have time, I switch to review mode, zoom in and check the focus. If
I'm not confident, I'll take another shot after twisting the ring a
bit. Then I compare them in review mode and see which is better.
Once you figured out which direction you need to twist, you could
even try again, just to be sure. I know it's a lot of work, but
especially in the evening/at night, the autofocus gets lost easily.
I love my 602, but unfortunately the focus can take time to dial
in. (but once you do - wow!)

 

[ga-ga]

Hi Jeffery,
Can I pick up on something you've mentioned?

From my experience, using the special menu's "landscape" mode is VERY helpful. I usually shoot with sharpening on soft, and the built-in sharpening in this mode (or maybe it's something else?) really pulls out the details. Of course, a good tripod is essential. I also try to keep my ISO at 160, to keep the noise down, though shooting at 400 isn't too shabby, as long as you're faster than 1/2 a sec.

My understanding is that (as photographers) we have control over very few things,
primarily
1. focus
2. aperture
3. shutter speed
4. choice of ISO

also secondary (but still no less important)
5. where we point the camera ( & composition)
6. what we focus on
7. how we hold the camera
8.when we pull the trigger

with digital add to that
9. degree of sharpening...
10. size and compression of file

and so far as I know thats it!.........

Programmed mode was introduced by canon or somebody in the eighties (guessing) and was really just a marketing gimmick that made it look like the camera was doing something more and you were getting something more for your money i.e. it helped them sell cameras! but it caught on and I even seem to remember one manufacturer designing in slots for memory cards (more money) to give different "programmes"- in my book virtually fraudulent behaviour!

So far as I know the best that can be said for it is that it helps a novice user get the right(ish) settings for a given subject.

I don't believe that there is any added value on sharpening or anything else going on - if there is I want to know about it and why isn't it stated in the manual?..

Basically as a reasonably experienced photographer I would expect those programmed modes to be aiming to achieve something like this: -

1.Portrait: expect subject close to, little movement, aim for large aperture to give precise focus and small depth of field to make subject stand out.

2.Landscape: expect little movement subject far middle & near, aim for big depth of field i.e. small aperture as possible
3.Sports: expect fast movement, aim for high shutter speed as possible.
4. night: expect low light and tripod, allow for long exposure.

..........has that put the cat amongst the pigeons?...........

regards greg

 

[jeff-at-work]

Hi Jeffery,
Can I pick up on something you've mentioned?

Please. This is a really good topic.

My understanding is that (as photographers) we have control over
very few things,
primarily
1. focus
2. aperture
3. shutter speed
4. choice of ISO

also secondary (but still no less important)
5. where we point the camera ( & composition)
6. what we focus on
7. how we hold the camera
8.when we pull the trigger

with digital add to that
9. degree of sharpening...
10. size and compression of file

I don't believe that there is any added value on sharpening or
anything else going on - if there is I want to know about it and
why isn't it stated in the manual?..
Basically as a reasonably experienced photographer I would expect
those programmed modes to be aiming to achieve something like this:
1.Portrait: expect subject close to, little movement, aim for large
aperture to give precise focus and small depth of field to make
subject stand out.
2.Landscape: expect little movement subject far middle & near, aim
for big depth of field i.e. small aperture as possible
3.Sports: expect fast movement, aim for high shutter speed as
possible.
4. night: expect low light and tripod, allow for long exposure.

Hmmmmmm, of course ga-ga you're right that these are the main items and I wouldn't be surprised if that was exactly what is going on, BUT when I did some tests a few months ago with my lumix and the 602 of some local scenery (I'm on the 6th floor, so there's a good view), the landscape mode shots looked better at 200% than anything I could do in manual mode. (2nd BUT) I do not, however, remember if I went all the way to f11 in manual. I didn't feel that the landscape mode shot shutter speeds were noticably slower (to compensate for f11) than the standard shots, but I'll check the original shots again to be sure.

I'd love to do this kind of test again this weekend, (3rd BUT) I've just loaned the 602 to my friend for the week. Could anyone else out there try a comparison? Manual, Program and Landscape?

ps funny, the lumix LOOKED better in review mode and on my monitor, but when you zoomed in to 200%, there was actually less detail than the 602 - things were flattened/sharpened too much.

 

[ga-ga]

Jeffrey,
Ok - ya wish is moi command!> .....
I did just that not much light tho -
went through Auto bracketing (3) portrait/landscape/sport/night/mono/S/A/M

same subject - not much light - not much variation - I've annotated resulting parameters - exif didn't show on pbase (pics taken @6mN - reduced to 800x600) for Pbase
haven't had time to analyse it much myself yet........
What do we make of it?..........

regards Greg

Hmmmmmm, of course ga-ga you're right that these are the main items
and I wouldn't be surprised if that was exactly what is going on,
BUT when I did some tests a few months ago with my lumix and the
602 of some local scenery (I'm on the 6th floor, so there's a good
view), the landscape mode shots looked better at 200% than anything
I could do in manual mode. (2nd BUT) I do not, however, remember if
I went all the way to f11 in manual. I didn't feel that the
landscape mode shot shutter speeds were noticably slower (to
compensate for f11) than the standard shots, but I'll check the
original shots again to be sure.
I'd love to do this kind of test again this weekend, (3rd BUT) I've
just loaned the 602 to my friend for the week. Could anyone else
out there try a comparison? Manual, Program and Landscape?
ps funny, the lumix LOOKED better in review mode and on my monitor,
but when you zoomed in to 200%, there was actually less detail than
the 602 - things were flattened/sharpened too much.

 

[ga-ga]

Jeffrey,
Ok - ya wish is moi command!> .....
I did just that not much light tho -
went through Auto bracketing (3) portrait/landscape/sport/night/mono/S/A/M

same subject - not much light - not much variation - I've annotated resulting parameters - exif didn't show on pbase (pics taken @6mN - reduced to 800x600) for Pbase
haven't had time to analyse it much myself yet........
What do we make of it?..........
http://www.pbase.com/johngregson/discussion

regards Greg

Hi Jeffery,
Can I pick up on something you've mentioned?

Please. This is a really good topic.

My understanding is that (as photographers) we have control over
very few things,
primarily
1. focus
2. aperture
3. shutter speed
4. choice of ISO

also secondary (but still no less important)
5. where we point the camera ( & composition)
6. what we focus on
7. how we hold the camera
8.when we pull the trigger

with digital add to that
9. degree of sharpening...
10. size and compression of file

I don't believe that there is any added value on sharpening or
anything else going on - if there is I want to know about it and
why isn't it stated in the manual?..
Basically as a reasonably experienced photographer I would expect
those programmed modes to be aiming to achieve something like this:
1.Portrait: expect subject close to, little movement, aim for large
aperture to give precise focus and small depth of field to make
subject stand out.
2.Landscape: expect little movement subject far middle & near, aim
for big depth of field i.e. small aperture as possible
3.Sports: expect fast movement, aim for high shutter speed as
possible.
4. night: expect low light and tripod, allow for long exposure.

Hmmmmmm, of course ga-ga you're right that these are the main items
and I wouldn't be surprised if that was exactly what is going on,
BUT when I did some tests a few months ago with my lumix and the
602 of some local scenery (I'm on the 6th floor, so there's a good
view), the landscape mode shots looked better at 200% than anything
I could do in manual mode. (2nd BUT) I do not, however, remember if
I went all the way to f11 in manual. I didn't feel that the
landscape mode shot shutter speeds were noticably slower (to
compensate for f11) than the standard shots, but I'll check the
original shots again to be sure.
I'd love to do this kind of test again this weekend, (3rd BUT) I've
just loaned the 602 to my friend for the week. Could anyone else
out there try a comparison? Manual, Program and Landscape?
ps funny, the lumix LOOKED better in review mode and on my monitor,
but when you zoomed in to 200%, there was actually less detail than
the 602 - things were flattened/sharpened too much.

 

[ga-ga]

Whats happened where is everybody?......
I thought this was interesting - but everybodies gone.....??

I posted a set of pics of the same scene taken with the wole range of 602 program options - I just updated the sumary table to include EVs ( I think its right) which shows a variations of 5EV on the same scene (tell me I'm wrong but I think thats a factor of x32 on the same scene......???

also it looks like some programe modes (mostly landscape are changing the white balance - maybe to cut through mist??.......)
I'm amazed.....!!!
what does it all mean?........
r ga-ga......

regards Greg

Hi Jeffery,
Can I pick up on something you've mentioned?

Please. This is a really good topic.

My understanding is that (as photographers) we have control over
very few things,
primarily
1. focus
2. aperture
3. shutter speed
4. choice of ISO

also secondary (but still no less important)
5. where we point the camera ( & composition)
6. what we focus on
7. how we hold the camera
8.when we pull the trigger

with digital add to that
9. degree of sharpening...
10. size and compression of file

I don't believe that there is any added value on sharpening or
anything else going on - if there is I want to know about it and
why isn't it stated in the manual?..
Basically as a reasonably experienced photographer I would expect
those programmed modes to be aiming to achieve something like this:
1.Portrait: expect subject close to, little movement, aim for large
aperture to give precise focus and small depth of field to make
subject stand out.
2.Landscape: expect little movement subject far middle & near, aim
for big depth of field i.e. small aperture as possible
3.Sports: expect fast movement, aim for high shutter speed as
possible.
4. night: expect low light and tripod, allow for long exposure.

Hmmmmmm, of course ga-ga you're right that these are the main items
and I wouldn't be surprised if that was exactly what is going on,
BUT when I did some tests a few months ago with my lumix and the
602 of some local scenery (I'm on the 6th floor, so there's a good
view), the landscape mode shots looked better at 200% than anything
I could do in manual mode. (2nd BUT) I do not, however, remember if
I went all the way to f11 in manual. I didn't feel that the
landscape mode shot shutter speeds were noticably slower (to
compensate for f11) than the standard shots, but I'll check the
original shots again to be sure.
I'd love to do this kind of test again this weekend, (3rd BUT) I've
just loaned the 602 to my friend for the week. Could anyone else
out there try a comparison? Manual, Program and Landscape?
ps funny, the lumix LOOKED better in review mode and on my monitor,
but when you zoomed in to 200%, there was actually less detail than
the 602 - things were flattened/sharpened too much.

 

[MikeBee]

hi !

I think that your efforts have gone un-commented upon as they have departed a little from the title of the thread and there had been similar tests when the camera first came out.!

I suppose it's understandable that newer owners re-visit the topics of old, just a shame though equally understandable, that they are not met with the same interest amongst the majority.



MikeBee

regards Greg

Hi Jeffery,
Can I pick up on something you've mentioned?

Please. This is a really good topic.

My understanding is that (as photographers) we have control over
very few things,
primarily
1. focus
2. aperture
3. shutter speed
4. choice of ISO

also secondary (but still no less important)
5. where we point the camera ( & composition)
6. what we focus on
7. how we hold the camera
8.when we pull the trigger

with digital add to that
9. degree of sharpening...
10. size and compression of file

I don't believe that there is any added value on sharpening or
anything else going on - if there is I want to know about it and
why isn't it stated in the manual?..
Basically as a reasonably experienced photographer I would expect
those programmed modes to be aiming to achieve something like this:
1.Portrait: expect subject close to, little movement, aim for large
aperture to give precise focus and small depth of field to make
subject stand out.
2.Landscape: expect little movement subject far middle & near, aim
for big depth of field i.e. small aperture as possible
3.Sports: expect fast movement, aim for high shutter speed as
possible.
4. night: expect low light and tripod, allow for long exposure.

Hmmmmmm, of course ga-ga you're right that these are the main items
and I wouldn't be surprised if that was exactly what is going on,
BUT when I did some tests a few months ago with my lumix and the
602 of some local scenery (I'm on the 6th floor, so there's a good
view), the landscape mode shots looked better at 200% than anything
I could do in manual mode. (2nd BUT) I do not, however, remember if
I went all the way to f11 in manual. I didn't feel that the
landscape mode shot shutter speeds were noticably slower (to
compensate for f11) than the standard shots, but I'll check the
original shots again to be sure.
I'd love to do this kind of test again this weekend, (3rd BUT) I've
just loaned the 602 to my friend for the week. Could anyone else
out there try a comparison? Manual, Program and Landscape?
ps funny, the lumix LOOKED better in review mode and on my monitor,
but when you zoomed in to 200%, there was actually less detail than
the 602 - things were flattened/sharpened too much.

--
http://www.pbase.com/mikebee

 

[ga-ga]

hi mike
a couple of people had expressed interest earlier........

it wasn't meant to be a camera review - just trying to deduce what added value if any is given by the scene position programs.
thats what got me going - I was surprised by the calculated EV -

but I've since discovered that the formula (borrowed from dpreview) was wrong - I've just uploaded a revised table which has EVs that are much more believable (and I'm confident are right)

which just leaves us with the Landscape mode which does seem to be doing something with white balance which is not "declared" in the manual
I think it might be trying to mimic the effects of a haze filter......??

regards greg

hi !

I think that your efforts have gone un-commented upon as they have
departed a little from the title of the thread and there had been
similar tests when the camera first came out.!

I suppose it's understandable that newer owners re-visit the topics
of old, just a shame though equally understandable, that they are
not met with the same interest amongst the majority.



MikeBee

 

[Jeffrey Knapp]

Hi ga-ga. Sorry about dropping out of sight there - my work got SUPER busy suddenly, then my girlfriend's father passed away... Ahhhh! Anyway, thank you VERY much for doing those test shots. Do you see what I mean? There's something very pleasing about that white balance and also there does seem to be a bit more detail. (my eyes may be fooling me here)

but I've since discovered that the formula (borrowed from dpreview)
was wrong - I've just uploaded a revised table which has EVs that
are much more believable (and I'm confident are right)

Thanks - where is this?

which just leaves us with the Landscape mode which does seem to be
doing something with white balance which is not "declared" in the
manual
I think it might be trying to mimic the effects of a haze
filter......??

Yes, that was my idea - some kind of internal filtering to cut the haze/glare. My g*d DA*ned "friend" still hasn't given me back my 602 yet, so I can't do any testing on my own. (I'm having separation anxiety!) I'll see what other postings you've done to check on your results. Sorry again about the slow response. ;o
Mr. Osaka

 

[ga-ga]

Hi Jeffrey,
nice to see you back - sorry about your troubles.....

I hadn't realised till you revived this thread - how much I seem to be making a career out of it!...

I'd posted some samples for Chris at the start - then the test that you picked up on

I am intrigued by the possibility of Fuji tweaking on the Scene programs - I had hoped for input from "the boys" as to what might be going on, but nobody has bitten.... doesn't anybody from Fuji ever turn up?.....

What I am concerned about is the apparent lack of any documentation whatsoever from Fuji about these added value features......

We're supposed to be "expert photographers" - but we don't even know whats going on........!!
the second table is on the second page..... lol

I worked out the EV formula should be =LOG(POWER(D2(aperture),2) C2(Shutter),2)+E2(ISO) 100 (in Excel)

The formula as given by Big Phil on DPreview was "x" E2(ISO) 100. but the "x" was giving the strange results It works fine with the change to "+" which is logical..... and I'm satisfied its right.
I given feedback to DPr but had no response.
regards greg

but I've since discovered that the formula (borrowed from dpreview)
was wrong - I've just uploaded a revised table which has EVs that
are much more believable (and I'm confident are right)

Thanks - where is this?

which just leaves us with the Landscape mode which does seem to be
doing something with white balance which is not "declared" in the
manual
I think it might be trying to mimic the effects of a haze
filter......??

Yes, that was my idea - some kind of internal filtering to cut the
haze/glare. My g*d DA*ned "friend" still hasn't given me back my
602 yet, so I can't do any testing on my own. (I'm having
separation anxiety!) I'll see what other postings you've done to
check on your results. Sorry again about the slow response. ;o
Mr. Osaka

 

[ga-ga]

heres the modified table - hoping to get some interest

We're supposed to be "expert photographers" - but we don't even
know whats going on........!!
the second table is on the second page..... lol
I worked out the EV formula should be
=LOG(POWER(D2(aperture),2) C2(Shutter),2)+E2(ISO) 100 (in Excel)
The formula as given by Big Phil on DPreview was "x" E2(ISO) 100.
but the "x" was giving the strange results It works fine with the
change to "+" which is logical..... and I'm satisfied its right.
I given feedback to DPr but had no response.
regards greg

but I've since discovered that the formula (borrowed from dpreview)
was wrong - I've just uploaded a revised table which has EVs that
are much more believable (and I'm confident are right)

Thanks - where is this?

which just leaves us with the Landscape mode which does seem to be
doing something with white balance which is not "declared" in the
manual
I think it might be trying to mimic the effects of a haze
filter......??

Yes, that was my idea - some kind of internal filtering to cut the
haze/glare. My g*d DA*ned "friend" still hasn't given me back my
602 yet, so I can't do any testing on my own. (I'm having
separation anxiety!) I'll see what other postings you've done to
check on your results. Sorry again about the slow response. ;o
Mr. Osaka

 

[ga-ga]

Just in case anybody else finds this interesting - I had second thoughts on the formula, the factor for ISO was still wrong and I worked it out again - sure this is right now......(for excel)
EV=LOG(POWER(D2{aperture},2) C2{shutter},2)-LOG(E2{ISO} 100,2)
regards ga-ga

We're supposed to be "expert photographers" - but we don't even
know whats going on........!!
the second table is on the second page..... lol
I worked out the EV formula should be
=LOG(POWER(D2(aperture),2) C2(Shutter),2)+E2(ISO) 100 (in Excel)
The formula as given by Big Phil on DPreview was "x" E2(ISO) 100.
but the "x" was giving the strange results It works fine with the
change to "+" which is logical..... and I'm satisfied its right.
I given feedback to DPr but had no response.
regards greg

but I've since discovered that the formula (borrowed from dpreview)
was wrong - I've just uploaded a revised table which has EVs that
are much more believable (and I'm confident are right)

Thanks - where is this?

which just leaves us with the Landscape mode which does seem to be
doing something with white balance which is not "declared" in the
manual
I think it might be trying to mimic the effects of a haze
filter......??

Yes, that was my idea - some kind of internal filtering to cut the
haze/glare. My g*d DA*ned "friend" still hasn't given me back my
602 yet, so I can't do any testing on my own. (I'm having
separation anxiety!) I'll see what other postings you've done to
check on your results. Sorry again about the slow response. ;o
Mr. Osaka