S1 Tips and Hints - Compilation

Thanks everyone! I'm a total newbie at this, so pardon my ignorance! :)
Good luck.
Francisco
Regarding hyperfocal, I tried reducing the MF distance to 2 mt like
the previous poster said, but not much difference. I really think
my problem is hand-shake and not the actual focusing, because the
shutter speed is automatically set to 1 sec. Here's a couple of
tests I just did:

http://pwp.netcabo.pt/0255503101/img_0111.jpg

http://pwp.netcabo.pt/0255503101/img_0112.jpg

What do you think, camera shake or bad focusing?
As written it does not work. Do this to get it to work, but it is
not a very robust method. Hyperfocal is better IMO for dark/low
light focus situations.

I did this in aperture priority mode and tried this in a dark room
and it only [sort of] works on close subjects around 3-5 feet with
horiz/vert lines to help focus lock onto:
assign jump button to AFL
Set flash=on, redeye=on, flash pop-up=on.
focus on a subject preferably one with horiz or vert lines to help
with focus lock and half-press the shutter button - now while
holding the shutter half-pressed hit the jump button to initiate
AFL and repeat pressing of the jump button until you get a focus
lock indicated by a green square in the EVF.

With these settings in place, and the flash up, the red-eye
reduction lamp will light and stay lit to facilitate illuminating
your subject and attaining focus lock but the range is quite short.
It often takes several hits of the jump button to allow focus lock
via AFL.

Regarding hyperfocal - please be aware that manual focus setting
will be lost whenever the power cycles on the camera, and when the
LCD/EVF turns off, ie due to power management. So if you set up
hyperfocal in your Custom settings and lose MF, you can turn the
mode dial out of C to any other mode and then return it to C to
reimplement your saved settings with MF back in place - or you can
just stay in C and set MF again to the desired range. You should be
OK with 7.82 feet or just a bit farther, ie 10 feet as I have read
that hyperfocal settings are best erred on the far side of the
desired focus setting to allow for sharp focus out to infinity.
This will push out you min distance for focus but only by about one
foot with f2.8 and 5.8mm focal length.

HTH
I'm having some difficulties using a couple of tips concerning
low-light focus, more preciselly these 2:

"Low Light: ""Any prosumer digicam is going to have difficulty in
low-light except for sony cameras, and even those cameras have
difficulty. The best thing to do is manual focus on your subject
when it is too dim for autofocus. There is a trick though with the
S1. Basically if you set the custom button on the S1 to Auto focus
lock and then turn on the Red eye reduction, you can have an AF
Assist Illuminator. Just use the custom button to focus and whalla,
your subject is in focus! It works up to about 3-5 feet. I've tried
it in complete darkness and it works amazingly!"""
  • I'm not quite sure if I understood how this works... the red-eye
reduction only fires when you actually shoot the photo, you need to
focus before that, so how exactly does it serve has an AF assist
lamp? confused:

"Use hyperfocal. Use Av, set to f2.8, set manual focus to 10', zoom
out all the way and everything from 4.5' to infinity will be in
focus. No focusing needed so it'll be fast. Try in a completely
dark room. Save as Custom setting and you're all set for
Halloween-type pics. If the subject is closer than 4.5', you should
be able to focus on it the 'regular' way."
  • I've tried this, but all I get is blurry photos. Now, I'm not
sure if the problem is incorrect focus or camera shake... :~

I know these are probably very ridiculous questions, but I'd really
apreciate if someone could help me out on this! :)
--
Canon S1 IS
Keep on Shooting!
 
"Use hyperfocal. Use Av, set to f2.8, set manual focus to 10', zoom
out all the way and everything from 4.5' to infinity will be in
focus. No focusing needed so it'll be fast. Try in a completely
dark room. Save as Custom setting and you're all set for
Halloween-type pics. If the subject is closer than 4.5', you should
be able to focus on it the 'regular' way."
  • I've tried this, but all I get is blurry photos. Now, I'm not
sure if the problem is incorrect focus or camera shake... :~
Make sure when you set it to 10' that you aren't using any zoom at all.

Maybe you did that I'm not sure, but the wording of "zoom all the way out" makes it sound like you zoom out. It probably should just say to make sure your not using any zoom at all, when you set it, and when you use it.
 
"Use hyperfocal. Use Av, set to f2.8, set manual focus to 10', zoom
out all the way and everything from 4.5' to infinity will be in
focus. No focusing needed so it'll be fast. Try in a completely
dark room. Save as Custom setting and you're all set for
Halloween-type pics. If the subject is closer than 4.5', you should
be able to focus on it the 'regular' way."
  • I've tried this, but all I get is blurry photos. Now, I'm not
sure if the problem is incorrect focus or camera shake... :~
Make sure when you set it to 10' that you aren't using any zoom at
all.

Maybe you did that I'm not sure, but the wording of "zoom all the
way out" makes it sound like you zoom out. It probably should just
say to make sure your not using any zoom at all, when you set it,
and when you use it.
Unless of course I've been doing it wrong, but thats how I did it.
 
I was asked to add this to the list:

the full instructions for firmware upgrade are just a long description for non-pc people to copy the firmware to the cf in the camera via the canon usb software as painlessly and error free as possible.

this is all you need to do:

1 format the 32 MB card (just for extra safety - take no risks with firmware upgrades).

2 copy the PS_S1.FIR file in the PowerShotS1IS_f folder to the root of the cf card.

3 put freshly charged or new batteries in the camera with the card.

4 switch to playback, press Menu, scroll to Firmw Update, press SET.

display will show message for 2 minutes then automatically switch off.

easy...
;-)
 
There was thread recently regarding how to put the EVF into "No Info Display" mode. I thought it would be good to add this to the tips and tricks list.

Here are excerpts from that thread. (Sorry original posters -- no attribution, just snippets from many messages. But I did correct some typos!)

Q: What are you guys talking about?
A: There is "no LCD info mode" but there is no "no EVF info mode".

When viewing on the lcd the overlay of information status, flash, iso, metering, mode, number pics left etc can be removed from the lcd by toggling the display button. But when you close the lcd and use the EVF in the viewfinder there is no documented way of removing the overlay information. This is a trick for people who prefer to compose without overlay in the EVF.

Q: How do you get the information to turn off:

A1: Switch on replay in P mode, now switch to record, hold up on the 4 way for a couple of seconds, the info in EVF disappears :-)
A2: To do it anytime, switch to replay, then back to record, then hold up.

Q: It didn't work for me. Why?

A: Here's what one person found: When i had the camera on lcd display with info turned OFF before i used the 'trick' to get the no info EVF, it worked ok; when i had it on lcd with info ON and i tried the same trick, it didnt work.

So to you all that tried to get the "no info EVF" mode to no avail, set your lcd display to no info before you try the trick... good luck.

Enjoy,
David
 
Thanks for sharing! This is exactly what I was missing on S1: SLR-like EVF.

I was experimenting a bit and I have found that pressing "up" has in fact no relevance at all. This is the optimized procedure in two cases:

1) Camera off, LCD closed:
  • Power on.
  • Switch to replay.
  • Switch back to record.
  • EVF overlay info will disappear in 5 sec.
2) Camera on, LCD in use:
  • Make sure you don't see overlay information on the LCD.
  • Close display.
  • Switch to replay.
  • Switch back to record.
  • EVF overlay info will disappear in 5 sec.
Some functions ("FUNC." for example) will put back info icons as usual but they'll get hidden again after 5 sec.

To put back and keep overlay information (besides the obvious off/on):
  • Open LCD.
  • Close LCD while overlay info is still on screen.
(1 second later is just fine. LCD mode is not important since in
both modes overlay info will be shown after opening the LCD.)
  • EVF will keep overlay info.
If you now try replay-> record it might fail. It seems that replay-> record while using EVF is simply putting EVF into the last LCD mode before closing the LCD. So if it was clean LCD, replay-> record will remove overlay. If LCD is in permanent overlay (second mode) it will not. Strange algorithm?!?! Why not simply having "Display" button cycling through four modes instead of three: LCD clean, LCD with overlay, EVF clean, EVF with overlay? (So, repeat steps in case 2 if you want to remove overlay info from EVF again.)

Thus, no "up" button needed.

Cheers,
Ivan
 
Wonderful tip - works for me!

Is there no end to the tweaks we can make on this camera? :-)

Doug
I was experimenting a bit and I have found that pressing "up" has
in fact no relevance at all. This is the optimized procedure in two
cases:

1) Camera off, LCD closed:
  • Power on.
  • Switch to replay.
  • Switch back to record.
  • EVF overlay info will disappear in 5 sec.
Ivan
 
1) does not work for me. It only works if the last time you switched off the overlay was not in the lcd. If the last time you switched off the overlay was on in the lcd 1) does not work.

It's the same with the lcd, if you switched off with the overlay on, it does not work. If you switched off with the overlay off, it does work.

The key seems to be to switch the overlay off in the lcd first whatever.
Thanks for sharing! This is exactly what I was missing on S1:
SLR-like EVF.

I was experimenting a bit and I have found that pressing "up" has
in fact no relevance at all. This is the optimized procedure in two
cases:

1) Camera off, LCD closed:
  • Power on.
  • Switch to replay.
  • Switch back to record.
  • EVF overlay info will disappear in 5 sec.
2) Camera on, LCD in use:
  • Make sure you don't see overlay information on the LCD.
  • Close display.
  • Switch to replay.
  • Switch back to record.
  • EVF overlay info will disappear in 5 sec.
Some functions ("FUNC." for example) will put back info icons as
usual but they'll get hidden again after 5 sec.

To put back and keep overlay information (besides the obvious off/on):
  • Open LCD.
  • Close LCD while overlay info is still on screen.
(1 second later is just fine. LCD mode is not important since in
both modes overlay info will be shown after opening the LCD.)
  • EVF will keep overlay info.
If you now try replay-> record it might fail. It seems that
replay-> record while using EVF is simply putting EVF into the last
LCD mode before closing the LCD. So if it was clean LCD,
replay-> record will remove overlay. If LCD is in permanent overlay
(second mode) it will not. Strange algorithm?!?! Why not simply
having "Display" button cycling through four modes instead of
three: LCD clean, LCD with overlay, EVF clean, EVF with overlay?
(So, repeat steps in case 2 if you want to remove overlay info from
EVF again.)

Thus, no "up" button needed.

Cheers,
Ivan
 
You are right! It was just a coincidence that I left LCD in no overlay mode before turning my camera off. In fact, now with your update things seem to be even simpler (and sure easier to remember):

While on EVF, switching to replay then back to record will remove overlay only if the LCD prior to closing or switching camera off was in no overlay mode.

Could you confirm this?
(BTW I have firmware 1.0.2.0.)

-= Ivan =-
 
yep, I think that's right, just switch on, toggle overlay out of lcd, then it always works afterwards. I have 102 too.

I'm sure on a couple of occasions holding up toggles the display on/off too but I'm blowed if I can repeat it. It looks like the 5 sec delay comes into effect with the right combination of presses and if you happen to be pressing something else it looks like it caused it.
You are right! It was just a coincidence that I left LCD in no
overlay mode before turning my camera off. In fact, now with your
update things seem to be even simpler (and sure easier to remember):

While on EVF, switching to replay then back to record will remove
overlay only if the LCD prior to closing or switching camera off
was in no overlay mode.

Could you confirm this?
(BTW I have firmware 1.0.2.0.)

-= Ivan =-
 
There was a recent thread where a user posted his recommended workflow for sharper pictures from the S1. The results looked pretty good, so I decided to add it to this thread. Here were his recommendations:

heet the camera for increased sharpness and normal saturation and contrast.

Then, here is the basic workflow I followed:
Clean noise with Noise Ninja for ISO 400 pics
Unsharp mask (160, .5, 3)
Crop, Adjust Levels, saturation, etc.
Resize
Unsharp mask (100, .5, 0)

The person who posted the hint was TuMahler.

Here is the thread: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1010&message=10676509

D.
 
heet the camera for increased sharpness and normal saturation and
contrast.
I swear that said "Set the camera" when I wrote it!!! Ok, maybe not.

D.
 
For those who got the S1 for the holidays, you may find this helpful!

David
The S1 Tips and Hints Thread is great but hard to get through, so...

Here is a compilation of ideas from that thread. Hope you like it!

David

[P.S. I am never doing this again... ugh!]

The Tips (In no order other than my arbitrary classification:)
=========================================

Too long to post in one message. Please see next messages...
 
For those who got the S1 for the holidays, you may find this helpful!

David
Thanks a lot, I got mine about a week ago. I will read all the post, maybe I will find the answer there, but anyway: Is there a way to adjust the brightness of the LCD/viewfinder? My biggest complaint with the camera is that photos always look overexposed on the LCD, making it hard to judge the pictures before they are loaded in my computer.
--
http://www.pbase.com/interactive
 
There's some option in the Menu when you're in playback mode that helps to bright the LCD, its kind of a "little" sun and a "bigger" sun on its side, I started using my S1 on the brighter mode because I think it represents the pictures better, with it off I used to take underexposed pictures.
 
I was asked to add this to the list:

the full instructions for firmware upgrade are just a long
description for non-pc people to copy the firmware to the cf in the
camera via the canon usb software as painlessly and error free as
possible.

this is all you need to do:

1 format the 32 MB card (just for extra safety - take no risks with
firmware upgrades).

2 copy the PS_S1.FIR file in the PowerShotS1IS_f folder to the root
of the cf card.

3 put freshly charged or new batteries in the camera with the card.

4 switch to playback, press Menu, scroll to Firmw Update, press SET.

display will show message for 2 minutes then automatically switch off.

easy...
;-)
How do I format the card and how do I copy the fir file in ??? folder to the root ? of the cf card? Sorry for the dumb questions.
 
With a card reader you can use windows explorer to format/copy as your PC should see the card as a removeable disk, or in camera use the camera's menu system to format and the PC to copy via camera's USB cable.

HTH
AndyR
--
http://photobucket.com/albums/v498/AndyVR/
dont worry... they couldn't possibly hit us at this dist........
 
all the camera wants to see is the FIR file in the root of the flash card, formatting first is just an ultra safety measure to remove as many glitches as possible.
With a card reader you can use windows explorer to format/copy as
your PC should see the card as a removeable disk, or in camera use
the camera's menu system to format and the PC to copy via camera's
USB cable.

HTH
AndyR
--
http://photobucket.com/albums/v498/AndyVR/
dont worry... they couldn't possibly hit us at this dist........
 
Many good tips here - worth a bump
Regards,
Max ...
 

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