S1: first impressions, a concern and questions

Deltic

Active member
Messages
51
Reaction score
27
Location
Kent, UK
Before I introduce myself I’d first like to say a big thank you to you all for the many interesting and informative threads on this forum and to apologise for my slightly long initial post…

I’m UK based and my photography is mainly railways/trains (hence Deltic), landscape, architecture, nature and travel. I was lucky enough to have a Canon A1 as my first SLR, followed by a T90 (which I pretty much wore out!), then fairly briefly an EOS30V and then a Pentax K20D. After over 14 years of use the Pentax has proved itself to be a very rugged and reliable camera although more recently its metering has become a little variable and with only really a useable ISO 800 limit it can be a little restrictive for capturing fast trains in poor British weather.

So after quite a lot of deliberation and a certain amount of saving I took the plunge and bought an open box S1 and 24-105 lens. And what a camera to behold! From what few photos I have taken image quality is superb with accurate exposures. But why an S1? Well, quite a bit was gut instinct as I was impressed by the camera from launch and wanted something rugged and full frame, plus the useful range of the kit lens which probably covers me 95% of the time. I’m not particularly hung up on the perceived issues of focussing, didn’t fancy anything by Sony or Canon and to be honest sometimes like to be a bit different - I still drive a 31 year old Citroen BX GTi for example.

Some may say why not buy a Pentax K1, but I felt that was a bit dated, nevertheless capable. The main contenders were the Nikon D780 (but lacks IBIS), D850 (ditto and expensive) and Z6 (only 24-70 kit lens) and of course the S5. Ironically I have just ordered a scanner for work which comes with a D850. In truth the lighter S5 might have been a better choice, but only comes with a 20-60 lens and not quite as good an EVF as the S1. The reality is I really wanted the S1…

That said it really is a step up from the K20D, not least because I have zero experience of video and it is very complicated - do we really need all those features?! I just have to learn a different workflow and checks. For my first shot of a train I’d got a lot of the settings wrong yet the S1 was less dim witted than me and nailed the shot.

Concerns! On the first day I got the camera when switched on I noticed a fan like noise (presumably the IBIS), with the camera a getting warm and which continued even when on standby effectively draining the battery in 3 hours. After the first day the noise/heat was only evident when using the camera or but stopping when on standby or switched off. Is this normal behaviour for the S1? It is a bit disconcerting and makes for dreadful battery life.

Apart from that worry my only really gripes are the weight, a lens cap that too easily comes off and the really badly placed video button unless you have enormous thumbs. But I have a number of questions, some of which are along the lines of I can do this with the K20D, how can I do that with the S1?
  1. The K20D has a useful dust alert function which records an image of any dust on sensor if you take a photo of a sheet of white paper, very helpful for cleaning. I guess if one were to take a stopped down image of a clear sky or a sheet of paper that might work similarly on the S1.
  2. On the on/off switch of the K20D there’s a very useful/convenient preview function that records an image with histogram and highlights any very underexposed areas. I can find this information on the S1, but is there any way of doing the same with more simply as one function?
  3. Something that I think is unique to Pentax is the TAV mode which allows one to set both the shutter and the aperture, with ISO automatically selected. On the S1 I guess shooting in manual with auto ISO would replicate this.
  4. This might be due to my ignorance but it’s not clear from the manual when one should or shouldn’t use the electronic or mechanical shutter. Would not always using the electronic shutter cause less vibration and/or wear and tear?
  5. More of an observation but it seems odd that in Intelligent Auto mode that there’s no “action” or “sport” mode. Again I might be missing something here but the S1’s algorithms in various modes always seem be aimed at keeping the ISO low rather than what the user might think is the best shutter speed or aperture. I seem to recall that on the much simpler K20D one could customise the camera to go for higher shutter speeds or smaller apertures.
Again my apologies for the questions and waffle, but I’d be grateful for any advice particular regarding the noise/heat issue.

Jonathan
 
Hi Jonathan. Welcome to the L-mount forum.

I am a relatively new member here, having bought an S5 about 3 months ago. It's a friendly and helpful forum.
I’m UK based and my photography is mainly railways/trains (hence Deltic), landscape, architecture, nature and travel.
I am also a keen railway photographer and also do some landscape and architecture.

FYI there is a recurring trains/trams/planes photo thread over in the Landscape forum that's worth looking at when you get time:

Unofficial Train, Plane, and Tram thread #15: Landscape and Travel Photography Forum: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)
Concerns! On the first day I got the camera when switched on I noticed a fan like noise (presumably the IBIS), with the camera a getting warm and which continued even when on standby effectively draining the battery in 3 hours. After the first day the noise/heat was only evident when using the camera or but stopping when on standby or switched off. Is this normal behaviour for the S1? It is a bit disconcerting and makes for dreadful battery life.
Mirrorless cameras do consume more battery power than a typical DSLR because they have to power the EVF, the LCD screen, the IBIS and the on-board computer chip.

But power use should drop when the camera is in standby. As a long-time mirrorless camera user, I am in the habit of turning my S5 off between shots to conserve power. The camera boots up so fast that I never miss a shot.

While the S5 is a newer model than the S1, it is a lower level camera so I will have a go at answering your questions but hopefully some S1 owners with more experience will respond to clear anything up that I can't answer.
1. The K20D has a useful dust alert function which records an image of any dust on sensor if you take a photo of a sheet of white paper, very helpful for cleaning. I guess if one were to take a stopped down image of a clear sky or a sheet of paper that might work similarly on the S1.
I don't think anything like this exists on Panasonic cameras. There is however a sensor cleaning function.
2. On the on/off switch of the K20D there’s a very useful/convenient preview function that records an image with histogram and highlights any very underexposed areas. I can find this information on the S1, but is there any way of doing the same with more simply as one function?
Can't answer this one, sorry. I assume you've found the zebra function, and there is a histogram, but I don't know if you can record a preview with this info showing.
3. Something that I think is unique to Pentax is the TAV mode which allows one to set both the shutter and the aperture, with ISO automatically selected. On the S1 I guess shooting in manual with auto ISO would replicate this.
Yes, you could shoot in M mode but you could also shoot in A mode and set a minimum shutter speed. I found that the 'auto ISO' setting in the S5 doesn't allow ISO to be pushed higher than 6400. Setting the ISO limit to something higher (e.g. 51200) allows the camera to push the ISO up that high if it needs to.
4. This might be due to my ignorance but it’s not clear from the manual when one should or shouldn’t use the electronic or mechanical shutter. Would not always using the electronic shutter cause less vibration and/or wear and tear?
I mainly use mechanical shutter and have not seen any shutter shock in my images. Some of Panasonic's earlier M4/3 cameras suffered from shutter shock with specific lenses. Current model mechanical shutters don't seem to have this issue.

Electronic shutter will definitely eliminate vibration and wear but you may see rolling shutter effect in some fast moving subjects.
5. More of an observation but it seems odd that in Intelligent Auto mode that there’s no “action” or “sport” mode. Again I might be missing something here but the S1’s algorithms in various modes always seem be aimed at keeping the ISO low rather than what the user might think is the best shutter speed or aperture. I seem to recall that on the much simpler K20D one could customise the camera to go for higher shutter speeds or smaller apertures.
I rarely use iA mode. There is no sports mode.

When taking photos of moving trains, I tend to use A mode and set the aperture for a good depth of field (e.g. F11), I set a minimum shutter speed in the settings (e.g. 1/500) and let ISO float with an upper limit set.

Hope this helps. Post some train shots in the monthly thread in this forum or over in the landscape forum's trains thread when you can!

--
Pete
 
Last edited:
Hi Deltic, and welcome to the forum!

My apologies for the long reply, but, you kinda had it coming! ;) Ha!

My first recommendation for anyone purchasing a used/open-box camera is to do a Reset of the camera to its original factory settings...trust me, this will avoid a lot of possible/likely confusion moving forward should you find yourself questioning the behavior of the camera's function buttons, dials and controls. Best to start fresh.

My second recommendation to any new (to them) camera user is to download the user manual and, um, RTFM. ;)

For you, in the UK, that can be found here via the Support links on the UK/EU S1/24-105mm Kit (DC-S1M) Product page here...

LUMIX S DC-S1M | Full Frame Mirrorless Camera | Panasonic UK & Ireland


...or via direct link here...

DC-S1 Support


...also of top interest for S-Series users would be Panasonic's AF guides...

LUMIX AF Guidebook - Panasonic


:)

_____________________

To your questions...

Re: Fan and Temperature, my S1/24-105mm kit makes zero, um, "fan" noise when turned on, it's silent. Have you tried to reset the camera yet? Keep us posted.

Re: Dust image, my best practice is to take an image of the sky with the lens stopped down (≤f/16) and peruse the resulting image zoomed-in looking for dust bunnies, if found I try the Sensor Clean function in the camera, if that doesn't solve then its to the air bulb and brush until the offender(s) are banished. I do not change lenses in the field, as a practice, but if I do, I always check for the inevitable dust spots.

Re: Histogram display, etc., The S1's function buttons are highly customizable and I recommend that using them to their fullest, it sure beats diving into menus for often-used functions, IMHO. A good Lumix tutorial to get one started here...

Panasonic LUMIX S Series Camera Tutorial : Function Button & Lever - YouTube


...Panasonic has a whole slew of YT tutorials for their cameras, I'd recommend checking them out...

PanasonicLumixVideo - YouTube


Re: Pentax TAV Mode, I'm unfamiliar, sounds like you're on track with Auto-ISO, though, let us know.

Re: Shutter wear and mechanical vs Electronic usage, I shoot almost exclusively mechanical (except on those extremely rare occasions when 1/8000 sec. is not enough)) and with an advertised life-expectancy of 400,000 on the S-Series I don't worry about wear.

Re: iA Mode, I've never used it, perhaps someone who does can jump in with some help.

Regarding your interest in fast-moving subjects (like trains) I'd heartily advise not being bashful with one's ISO settings, the S1 is dual-ISO and comfortably provides clean images above ISO 4000 (my normal starting point to keep my shutters at 1/2000 for birding) and I am quite pleased with the images it provides up to ISO 10,000...your tastes may vary.

Anyhoo, I hope this was helpful and, cough, "welcome aboard!" LOL

:) Jimmy G
 
wow, great list of usefull info! Just added two bits.
Hi Deltic, and welcome to the forum!

My apologies for the long reply, but, you kinda had it coming! ;) Ha!

My first recommendation for anyone purchasing a used/open-box camera is to do a Reset of the camera to its original factory settings...trust me, this will avoid a lot of possible/likely confusion moving forward should you find yourself questioning the behavior of the camera's function buttons, dials and controls. Best to start fresh.

My second recommendation to any new (to them) camera user is to download the user manual and, um, RTFM. ;)

For you, in the UK, that can be found here via the Support links on the UK/EU S1/24-105mm Kit (DC-S1M) Product page here...

LUMIX S DC-S1M | Full Frame Mirrorless Camera | Panasonic UK & Ireland

https://www.panasonic.com/uk/consum...ameras/lumix-s-full-frame-cameras/dc-s1m.html

...or via direct link here...

DC-S1 Support

https://support-uk.panasonic.eu/app/products/detail/p/24871?scroll_id=manuals-and-guides

...also of top interest for S-Series users would be Panasonic's AF guides...

LUMIX AF Guidebook - Panasonic

https://www.panasonic.com/global/consumer/lumix/technologies/af.html

:)

_____________________

To your questions...

Re: Fan and Temperature, my S1/24-105mm kit makes zero, um, "fan" noise when turned on, it's silent. Have you tried to reset the camera yet? Keep us posted.
my S1r makes this sound too and I heard it on other Panasonics too. I guess it normal. Maybe the IBIS or the lens when you have activated „quick AF“.
You could check the settings for the standby mode to save battery.
Re: Dust image, my best practice is to take an image of the sky with the lens stopped down (≤f/16) and peruse the resulting image zoomed-in looking for dust bunnies, if found I try the Sensor Clean function in the camera, if that doesn't solve then its to the air bulb and brush until the offender(s) are banished. I do not change lenses in the field, as a practice, but if I do, I always check for the inevitable dust spots.

Re: Histogram display, etc., The S1's function buttons are highly customizable and I recommend that using them to their fullest, it sure beats diving into menus for often-used functions, IMHO. A good Lumix tutorial to get one started here...
You don‘t need the preview function of the Pentax because on a mirrorless camera you have preview all the time :-)

there is even a function that simulates motion blur with long exposure times.

Panasonic LUMIX S Series Camera Tutorial : Function Button & Lever - YouTube


...Panasonic has a whole slew of YT tutorials for their cameras, I'd recommend checking them out...

PanasonicLumixVideo - YouTube

https://www.youtube.com/c/PanasonicLumixVideo/videos

Re: Pentax TAV Mode, I'm unfamiliar, sounds like you're on track with Auto-ISO, though, let us know.

Re: Shutter wear and mechanical vs Electronic usage, I shoot almost exclusively mechanical (except on those extremely rare occasions when 1/8000 sec. is not enough)) and with an advertised life-expectancy of 400,000 on the S-Series I don't worry about wear.

Re: iA Mode, I've never used it, perhaps someone who does can jump in with some help.

Regarding your interest in fast-moving subjects (like trains) I'd heartily advise not being bashful with one's ISO settings, the S1 is dual-ISO and comfortably provides clean images above ISO 4000 (my normal starting point to keep my shutters at 1/2000 for birding) and I am quite pleased with the images it provides up to ISO 10,000...your tastes may vary.

Anyhoo, I hope this was helpful and, cough, "welcome aboard!" LOL

:) Jimmy G
 
Congrats on the S1, I have one too. I choose it for its superior IBIS, dynamic range of the sensor at high ISO, no lowpass filter, superb viewfinder and excellent handling and balance with lenses without the need of a vertical grip.

You may have set the IBIS to always be on when the camera is on hence the battery drain. Set it to only come on when you half press the shutter button. Thats how I have it set.

I mainly use the electronic shutter as I shoot static subjects, but if you are shooting fast moving subjects, stick to the mechanical shutter.

Hope that helps.
 
Hi Jonathan. Welcome to the L-mount forum.

I am a relatively new member here, having bought an S5 about 3 months ago. It's a friendly and helpful forum.
I’m UK based and my photography is mainly railways/trains (hence Deltic), landscape, architecture, nature and travel.
I am also a keen railway photographer and also do some landscape and architecture.

FYI there is a recurring trains/trams/planes photo thread over in the Landscape forum that's worth looking at when you get time:

Unofficial Train, Plane, and Tram thread #15: Landscape and Travel Photography Forum: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)
Concerns! On the first day I got the camera when switched on I noticed a fan like noise (presumably the IBIS), with the camera a getting warm and which continued even when on standby effectively draining the battery in 3 hours. After the first day the noise/heat was only evident when using the camera or but stopping when on standby or switched off. Is this normal behaviour for the S1? It is a bit disconcerting and makes for dreadful battery life.
Mirrorless cameras do consume more battery power than a typical DSLR because they have to power the EVF, the LCD screen, the IBIS and the on-board computer chip.

But power use should drop when the camera is in standby. As a long-time mirrorless camera user, I am in the habit of turning my S5 off between shots to conserve power. The camera boots up so fast that I never miss a shot.

While the S5 is a newer model than the S1, it is a lower level camera so I will have a go at answering your questions but hopefully some S1 owners with more experience will respond to clear anything up that I can't answer.
1. The K20D has a useful dust alert function which records an image of any dust on sensor if you take a photo of a sheet of white paper, very helpful for cleaning. I guess if one were to take a stopped down image of a clear sky or a sheet of paper that might work similarly on the S1.
I don't think anything like this exists on Panasonic cameras. There is however a sensor cleaning function.
2. On the on/off switch of the K20D there’s a very useful/convenient preview function that records an image with histogram and highlights any very underexposed areas. I can find this information on the S1, but is there any way of doing the same with more simply as one function?
Can't answer this one, sorry. I assume you've found the zebra function, and there is a histogram, but I don't know if you can record a preview with this info showing.
3. Something that I think is unique to Pentax is the TAV mode which allows one to set both the shutter and the aperture, with ISO automatically selected. On the S1 I guess shooting in manual with auto ISO would replicate this.
Yes, you could shoot in M mode but you could also shoot in A mode and set a minimum shutter speed. I found that the 'auto ISO' setting in the S5 doesn't allow ISO to be pushed higher than 6400. Setting the ISO limit to something higher (e.g. 51200) allows the camera to push the ISO up that high if it needs to.
4. This might be due to my ignorance but it’s not clear from the manual when one should or shouldn’t use the electronic or mechanical shutter. Would not always using the electronic shutter cause less vibration and/or wear and tear?
I mainly use mechanical shutter and have not seen any shutter shock in my images. Some of Panasonic's earlier M4/3 cameras suffered from shutter shock with specific lenses. Current model mechanical shutters don't seem to have this issue.

Electronic shutter will definitely eliminate vibration and wear but you may see rolling shutter effect in some fast moving subjects.
5. More of an observation but it seems odd that in Intelligent Auto mode that there’s no “action” or “sport” mode. Again I might be missing something here but the S1’s algorithms in various modes always seem be aimed at keeping the ISO low rather than what the user might think is the best shutter speed or aperture. I seem to recall that on the much simpler K20D one could customise the camera to go for higher shutter speeds or smaller apertures.
I rarely use iA mode. There is no sports mode.

When taking photos of moving trains, I tend to use A mode and set the aperture for a good depth of field (e.g. F11), I set a minimum shutter speed in the settings (e.g. 1/500) and let ISO float with an upper limit set.

Hope this helps. Post some train shots in the monthly thread in this forum or over in the landscape forum's trains thread when you can!
Thanks all for the responses, information and advice. Pete the railways of Australia are certainly very varied and interesting. And some amazing landscapes to shoot in!

I've not seen the train thread, so thank you for the tip.

Like the S5 the S1 on auto ISO doesn't seem to allow it to be pushed beyond 6400, although I couldn't see anything to that effect in the manual.

In terms of AF for moving trains do you use any custom setting? Set 2 seems to be recommended for trains, etc. moving in a constant/direction speed. I guess I will eventually set up a custom setting like this for moving trains.
 
Hi Deltic, and welcome to the forum!

My apologies for the long reply, but, you kinda had it coming! ;) Ha!

My first recommendation for anyone purchasing a used/open-box camera is to do a Reset of the camera to its original factory settings...trust me, this will avoid a lot of possible/likely confusion moving forward should you find yourself questioning the behavior of the camera's function buttons, dials and controls. Best to start fresh.

My second recommendation to any new (to them) camera user is to download the user manual and, um, RTFM. ;)

For you, in the UK, that can be found here via the Support links on the UK/EU S1/24-105mm Kit (DC-S1M) Product page here...

LUMIX S DC-S1M | Full Frame Mirrorless Camera | Panasonic UK & Ireland

https://www.panasonic.com/uk/consum...ameras/lumix-s-full-frame-cameras/dc-s1m.html

...or via direct link here...

DC-S1 Support

https://support-uk.panasonic.eu/app/products/detail/p/24871?scroll_id=manuals-and-guides

...also of top interest for S-Series users would be Panasonic's AF guides...

LUMIX AF Guidebook - Panasonic

https://www.panasonic.com/global/consumer/lumix/technologies/af.html

:)

_____________________

To your questions...

Re: Fan and Temperature, my S1/24-105mm kit makes zero, um, "fan" noise when turned on, it's silent. Have you tried to reset the camera yet? Keep us posted.

Re: Dust image, my best practice is to take an image of the sky with the lens stopped down (≤f/16) and peruse the resulting image zoomed-in looking for dust bunnies, if found I try the Sensor Clean function in the camera, if that doesn't solve then its to the air bulb and brush until the offender(s) are banished. I do not change lenses in the field, as a practice, but if I do, I always check for the inevitable dust spots.

Re: Histogram display, etc., The S1's function buttons are highly customizable and I recommend that using them to their fullest, it sure beats diving into menus for often-used functions, IMHO. A good Lumix tutorial to get one started here...

Panasonic LUMIX S Series Camera Tutorial : Function Button & Lever - YouTube


...Panasonic has a whole slew of YT tutorials for their cameras, I'd recommend checking them out...

PanasonicLumixVideo - YouTube

https://www.youtube.com/c/PanasonicLumixVideo/videos

Re: Pentax TAV Mode, I'm unfamiliar, sounds like you're on track with Auto-ISO, though, let us know.

Re: Shutter wear and mechanical vs Electronic usage, I shoot almost exclusively mechanical (except on those extremely rare occasions when 1/8000 sec. is not enough)) and with an advertised life-expectancy of 400,000 on the S-Series I don't worry about wear.

Re: iA Mode, I've never used it, perhaps someone who does can jump in with some help.

Regarding your interest in fast-moving subjects (like trains) I'd heartily advise not being bashful with one's ISO settings, the S1 is dual-ISO and comfortably provides clean images above ISO 4000 (my normal starting point to keep my shutters at 1/2000 for birding) and I am quite pleased with the images it provides up to ISO 10,000...your tastes may vary.

Anyhoo, I hope this was helpful and, cough, "welcome aboard!" LOL

:) Jimmy G
Jimmy to be honest I've spent more time RTFM that shooting any pictures which in turn has rather led me to over think things rather than just experimenting...

By open box I'm pretty certain that it was literally that, nothing had been removed or used, the shutter count being around 70 and with everything being on the factory settings. Nevertheless the responses on this forum are varied with others reporting the low hum and or warming and others like yourself silence. And it was very disconcerting for me to experience the constant hum and warming on the first day when the camera was on standby. Once I've noted any changes I've made to the settings perhaps I'll try a reset.

iA mode was really an observation and I doubt many of us would use that often, but useful if a less experienced user wanted to borrow the camera.

I agree at ISO 6400 the images are really clean!
 
Thanks all for the responses, information and advice. Pete the railways of Australia are certainly very varied and interesting. And some amazing landscapes to shoot in!
There are some vast distances here so that helps to provide variety! I live in Sydney where it's mostly suburban electric trains and rail corridor access is quite restricted. So I prefer to drive out of the city where the overhead wires stop and shoot the freight trains and intercity passenger sets. That usually means a two-hour drive to get to a nice location.
Like the S5 the S1 on auto ISO doesn't seem to allow it to be pushed beyond 6400, although I couldn't see anything to that effect in the manual.
Yes, I couldn't find anything in the manual either. When I stumbled over this I asked the question here in the forum (link to post). So the simple thing to do is just set your ISO upper limit to a number rather than auto, and it will then float as far as that number.
In terms of AF for moving trains do you use any custom setting? Set 2 seems to be recommended for trains, etc. moving in a constant/direction speed. I guess I will eventually set up a custom setting like this for moving trains.
I have the S5 on custom set 2 for trains, and for AF-mode I have tried both 1-area+ and 225-area. I am not sure which is best but have managed to get sharp photos using both.

Before getting the S5, I was shooting with a Panasonic G95 (M4/3 camera) which did not have and AF settings like the S series models. With the G95, I usually just used a zone focusing approach: aperture priority, AF-S mode, pre-focus the scene and lock the focus, and then just fire away with the shutter button. I found this was very reliable.

The S5's AF-C is much better so I am using it regularly, but for rail photography I think zone focusing takes away any worry about missing a shot. Last month I was shooting an approaching grain train in AF-C mode and there were a lot of birds on the track ahead of the train. As I began to shoot, the birds started to fly off out of the way of the train and the camera's AF got a bit distracted by them. That wouldn't happen with zone focusing.

--
Pete
 
Last edited:
Hi Jonathan,

The BX 'wheel change' suspension setting is very useful in deep snow and deep puddles. Bit bouncy though :)
 
Set the upper limit setting in your custom profile (remember to save!):

737e26d6253a482386cd1b254a57028c.jpg

8932317e004c4681b17eb0588bf3862f.jpg

You can set a pseudo "action" mode by setting a min shutter speed to something high too. This will avoid setting the shutter below the speed you set until the camera reaches the set max ISO, then it will start shooting slower shutter speeds. E.g. if my min shutter is set to 1/500 and my scene is metering 1/1000 at iso 200 on aperture prio but the scene gets darker then it will go to 1/500 first, then iso 400, 800, etc up to my max (lets say 6400) then it will go to 1/250 iso 6400, 1/125 iso 6400, etc. Of course the steps will be smaller than whole stops but you get the idea.



Also concerning previews, be sure to look at what the "constant preview' setting does.
 
Last edited:
Congrats on the S1, I have one too. I choose it for its superior IBIS, dynamic range of the sensor at high ISO, no lowpass filter, superb viewfinder and excellent handling and balance with lenses without the need of a vertical grip.

You may have set the IBIS to always be on when the camera is on hence the battery drain. Set it to only come on when you half press the shutter button. Thats how I have it set.

I mainly use the electronic shutter as I shoot static subjects, but if you are shooting fast moving subjects, stick to the mechanical shutter.

Hope that helps.
Much the same reasons that I bought the camera!

Just as a follow up to this on Friday I contacted Panasonic about my concerns about the humming noise and the camera warming up. To be honest the person I spoke to seemed a little baffled and thought the warming up was normal. As for the (continual) noise he seemed insistent that it was was the dust reduction...

I then rang the company from where I bought the camera and they said other purchasers had contacted them with similar concerns, although nobody had subsequently experienced any failures. He attributed the noise to the S1 having a cooling fan, although for some reason I thought that only the S1H had a fan.

Slightly odd that not everyone is experiencing the same, but I have a two year warranty just in case!
 
Hi Jonathan,

The BX 'wheel change' suspension setting is very useful in deep snow and deep puddles. Bit bouncy though :)
Yes, the hydropneumatic suspension is very useful and gives a most comfortable ride. By 'bouncy' I guess you mean the soft, floating rather than a firm ride - if a Citroen with hydropneumatic suspension bounces it's a sure sign that the suspension spheres need replacing.

I fear we are digressing here, but to head back to photography the BBC used to use Citroens as camera cars due to their smooth ride.
 
Set the upper limit setting in your custom profile (remember to save!):

737e26d6253a482386cd1b254a57028c.jpg

8932317e004c4681b17eb0588bf3862f.jpg

You can set a pseudo "action" mode by setting a min shutter speed to something high too. This will avoid setting the shutter below the speed you set until the camera reaches the set max ISO, then it will start shooting slower shutter speeds. E.g. if my min shutter is set to 1/500 and my scene is metering 1/1000 at iso 200 on aperture prio but the scene gets darker then it will go to 1/500 first, then iso 400, 800, etc up to my max (lets say 6400) then it will go to 1/250 iso 6400, 1/125 iso 6400, etc. Of course the steps will be smaller than whole stops but you get the idea.

Also concerning previews, be sure to look at what the "constant preview' setting does.
Thank you, that's useful!

Just to add to the previous links I've just discovered this https://www.panasonic.com/global/consumer/lumix/technologies/af.html which also links to a video AF guide I've not seen before.
 
cb4021da70d243a6b033f5686e3f63c6.jpg

And just to prove that I haven't just been reading the manual, this is my first train picture with the S1. My settings were all wrong, yet the camera being rather more quick witted than me managed to get the shot! Out of interest the second locomotive is one of the royal train locos.
 
Hi Jonathan,

The BX 'wheel change' suspension setting is very useful in deep snow and deep puddles. Bit bouncy though :)
Yes, the hydropneumatic suspension is very useful and gives a most comfortable ride. By 'bouncy' I guess you mean the soft, floating rather than a firm ride - if a Citroen with hydropneumatic suspension bounces it's a sure sign that the suspension spheres need replacing.

I fear we are digressing here, but to head back to photography the BBC used to use Citroens as camera cars due to their smooth ride.
Only 'bouncy' when jacked up as high as it would go to prevent the car grounding in deep snow. I lived in a cul-de-sac which was never cleared of snow. If it was heavy, I'd often be the only one able to get enough traction drive out :)

Back to photography......
 
Hi Jonathan,

The BX 'wheel change' suspension setting is very useful in deep snow and deep puddles. Bit bouncy though :)
Yes, the hydropneumatic suspension is very useful and gives a most comfortable ride. By 'bouncy' I guess you mean the soft, floating rather than a firm ride - if a Citroen with hydropneumatic suspension bounces it's a sure sign that the suspension spheres need replacing.

I fear we are digressing here, but to head back to photography the BBC used to use Citroens as camera cars due to their smooth ride.
Only 'bouncy' when jacked up as high as it would go to prevent the car grounding in deep snow. I lived in a cul-de-sac which was never cleared of snow. If it was heavy, I'd often be the only one able to get enough traction drive out :)
Back to photography......
Yes you are quite right!
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top