S1 Custom Settings

[Tazman02]

Before...

http://www.pbase.com/image/31678114

After...

http://www.pbase.com/image/31678189

Perhaps counter-intuitive to ask the camera to deliver a softer
image, and certainly not an approach for those that do not
post-process. But I continue to believe it positions one for
faster and more effective work at the desktop.

Joe

Before...

http://www.pbase.com/image/31677077

After...

http://www.pbase.com/image/31677039

Hi Joe,

Thanks for the tips. Could you post an original shot at your
suggested low sharpening, contrast, etc. settings and the shot
post-processed? I would be very curious to see a before/after
example of this approach for S1 shots.

Many thanks,

Aron

--
Aron Digumarthi
[email protected]
http://www.pbase.com/gern

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

I'm assuming this is using ur standard atn file?

 

[kakarp]

Hi Joe,

I too am very new to the S1 but really enjoy working in PS. If you would I too would appreciate receiving your PS Action Set. After looking @ your posts I want to give your ideas a try. I especially liked the one with the yellow flowers. I have a shot of the Disney castle that I removed all the people from and that too has yellow flowers in it. I really like how yours come out.

Thanks in advance.
Kakarp

e-mail: [email protected]
================================

Hey folks,

By way of introduction, I've been active on DPReview for two years,
primarily on the Sony Talk Forum and, for the last year, the Canon
10D/D60/D30 forum. I launched the initial Canon DSLR Challenge
last September and I've been active there since. So, not new to
Canon, but new to this forum. Earlier this week, I picked up a
PowerShot S1 as my carry-everywhere camera and I'm having a ball.
Much of what I read here helped me make that decision, so I wanted
to offer something back. Hope it is helpful to some...

A tip I would offer to anyone accustom to post-processing most/all
of their images: Use the Custom Effect (off the Function menu) to
set your Sharpness, Contrast, and Saturation to Low. To be sure,
images come off the camera with less pop, but they are better
positioned for desktop work. Why I think so...

SHARPNESS: In experimenting with over 100 images thus far, I've
found that Low Sharpening yields a cleaner image and one that
better responds to Photoshop sharpening techniques. S1 images
sharpen very nicely via my prefered method, one that cans (into a
Photoshop action) L*A*B conversion, edge masking, variable USM, and
conversion back to RGB. Crisp and clean without crunchies. If
anyone is interested, I can email my Photoshop action set. In
addition, this minimizes image noise at higher ISOs and makes it
easier to remove at the desktop (I use Neat Image).

CONTRAST: In experimenting with excess contrast scenes, the lower
setting seems to reduce the amount of clipping at either end. Be
it a landscape shot (e.g. bright, hazy sky + much darker
foreground) or any other blend of strong darks and brights, the
output usually keeps all image data in usable form. Sure, lower
contrast shots have a slightly compressed histogram, but they seem
to rebound in Photoshop very nicely. In short, this setting seems
to preserve more image data.

SATURATION: Adding saturation at the desktop is easy, while
removing it or changing its distribution is more difficult. In my
brief experience, the S1 saturation boost favors red/orange/yellow
too much. Medium or high saturation settings yielded, in
neighborhood shots at dusk, over-powering reds in brickwork, but
comparatively muted greens and blues elsewhere. At the desktop, I
found it easy (via selective Hue/Sat or a more complex
masking/channel mixing action) to increment colors where desired
and leave others alone. Net: With the low saturation setting, I
found it easier and faster to balance saturation to my tastes.


For all you control-freak/desktop junkies (e.g. me), its worth a
day or two at these "less flattering" settings to see (for
yourself) how the output merges with your post-processing workflow.
I'm thrilled with what the S1 and 30 seconds of post-work generate.
Thrilled.

Thanks,
Joe

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

 

[Joe Reilly129599]

I'm assuming this is using ur standard atn file?

Yep, using those labeled "Standard Workflow" and "L*A*B Smart Sharpen". Everything at the deaults, except Hue/Sat, where Saturation was upped to +10%.

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

 

[Joe Reilly129599]

I too am very new to the S1 but really enjoy working in PS. If you
would I too would appreciate receiving your PS Action Set. After
looking @ your posts I want to give your ideas a try. I especially
liked the one with the yellow flowers. I have a shot of the Disney
castle that I removed all the people from and that too has yellow
flowers in it. I really like how yours come out.

Thanks in advance.
Kakarp

e-mail: [email protected]
================================

Hey folks,

By way of introduction, I've been active on DPReview for two years,
primarily on the Sony Talk Forum and, for the last year, the Canon
10D/D60/D30 forum. I launched the initial Canon DSLR Challenge
last September and I've been active there since. So, not new to
Canon, but new to this forum. Earlier this week, I picked up a
PowerShot S1 as my carry-everywhere camera and I'm having a ball.
Much of what I read here helped me make that decision, so I wanted
to offer something back. Hope it is helpful to some...

A tip I would offer to anyone accustom to post-processing most/all
of their images: Use the Custom Effect (off the Function menu) to
set your Sharpness, Contrast, and Saturation to Low. To be sure,
images come off the camera with less pop, but they are better
positioned for desktop work. Why I think so...

SHARPNESS: In experimenting with over 100 images thus far, I've
found that Low Sharpening yields a cleaner image and one that
better responds to Photoshop sharpening techniques. S1 images
sharpen very nicely via my prefered method, one that cans (into a
Photoshop action) L*A*B conversion, edge masking, variable USM, and
conversion back to RGB. Crisp and clean without crunchies. If
anyone is interested, I can email my Photoshop action set. In
addition, this minimizes image noise at higher ISOs and makes it
easier to remove at the desktop (I use Neat Image).

CONTRAST: In experimenting with excess contrast scenes, the lower
setting seems to reduce the amount of clipping at either end. Be
it a landscape shot (e.g. bright, hazy sky + much darker
foreground) or any other blend of strong darks and brights, the
output usually keeps all image data in usable form. Sure, lower
contrast shots have a slightly compressed histogram, but they seem
to rebound in Photoshop very nicely. In short, this setting seems
to preserve more image data.

SATURATION: Adding saturation at the desktop is easy, while
removing it or changing its distribution is more difficult. In my
brief experience, the S1 saturation boost favors red/orange/yellow
too much. Medium or high saturation settings yielded, in
neighborhood shots at dusk, over-powering reds in brickwork, but
comparatively muted greens and blues elsewhere. At the desktop, I
found it easy (via selective Hue/Sat or a more complex
masking/channel mixing action) to increment colors where desired
and leave others alone. Net: With the low saturation setting, I
found it easier and faster to balance saturation to my tastes.


For all you control-freak/desktop junkies (e.g. me), its worth a
day or two at these "less flattering" settings to see (for
yourself) how the output merges with your post-processing workflow.
I'm thrilled with what the S1 and 30 seconds of post-work generate.
Thrilled.

Thanks,
Joe

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

 

[Edgaress]

I wish I knew enough about histogram distribution to spot a flaw in your logic!! But it seems to me if you had a scene that, on normal contrast setting with the exposure that just nicely filled the histogram - and if you shot the identical scene with contrast set on low, and the histogram shrank in width - then, yes, the dynamic range capture must be enhanced.

Or not?

Stan

I don't get the sense that a low contrast setting actually
increases dynamic range. Rather it seems to simply ask the camera
to do less "exaggeration" in boosting highs and lows post-capture .

That said, you do have me curious. I think I might throw the
camera in manual, get appropriate settings, then compare
middle-tone regions from low, medium, and high setting shots. I
don't think one can compare overall histograms, as higher contrast
settings will expand both ends. But if the same middle-tone image
regions have significantly different distributions (e.g. narrower
on low), this would suggest that overall dynamic range is expanded
on low.

Good point. Is there a flaw in my thinking and/or proposed
experiment?

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

--


I asked Mom if I was a gifted child...she said they certainly wouldn't have paid for me.

 

[Joe Reilly129599]

email winging its way to you!

Got bounce notices on two attempts to send to you. Let me know what I can do...

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

 

[Kief]

Please send your action set to [email protected] if you're still offering. Much appreciated!
-Kief

 

[Joe Reilly129599]

Please send your action set to [email protected] if you're still
offering. Much appreciated!
-Kief

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

 

[itsybitsyspidy]

I think this forum can only benefit from your timely arrival! I'm a relative newbie to the S1 and i can only the assistance you might provide in the future! Welcome! I'm really new to photography but i'm more versed in my photoshop than my S1. funny.

Be grateful if you could mail me the actions @ [email protected]

Thanks a million,
kj

Hey folks,

By way of introduction, I've been active on DPReview for two years,
primarily on the Sony Talk Forum and, for the last year, the Canon
10D/D60/D30 forum. I launched the initial Canon DSLR Challenge
last September and I've been active there since. So, not new to
Canon, but new to this forum. Earlier this week, I picked up a
PowerShot S1 as my carry-everywhere camera and I'm having a ball.
Much of what I read here helped me make that decision, so I wanted
to offer something back. Hope it is helpful to some...

A tip I would offer to anyone accustom to post-processing most/all
of their images: Use the Custom Effect (off the Function menu) to
set your Sharpness, Contrast, and Saturation to Low. To be sure,
images come off the camera with less pop, but they are better
positioned for desktop work. Why I think so...

SHARPNESS: In experimenting with over 100 images thus far, I've
found that Low Sharpening yields a cleaner image and one that
better responds to Photoshop sharpening techniques. S1 images
sharpen very nicely via my prefered method, one that cans (into a
Photoshop action) L*A*B conversion, edge masking, variable USM, and
conversion back to RGB. Crisp and clean without crunchies. If
anyone is interested, I can email my Photoshop action set. In
addition, this minimizes image noise at higher ISOs and makes it
easier to remove at the desktop (I use Neat Image).

CONTRAST: In experimenting with excess contrast scenes, the lower
setting seems to reduce the amount of clipping at either end. Be
it a landscape shot (e.g. bright, hazy sky + much darker
foreground) or any other blend of strong darks and brights, the
output usually keeps all image data in usable form. Sure, lower
contrast shots have a slightly compressed histogram, but they seem
to rebound in Photoshop very nicely. In short, this setting seems
to preserve more image data.

SATURATION: Adding saturation at the desktop is easy, while
removing it or changing its distribution is more difficult. In my
brief experience, the S1 saturation boost favors red/orange/yellow
too much. Medium or high saturation settings yielded, in
neighborhood shots at dusk, over-powering reds in brickwork, but
comparatively muted greens and blues elsewhere. At the desktop, I
found it easy (via selective Hue/Sat or a more complex
masking/channel mixing action) to increment colors where desired
and leave others alone. Net: With the low saturation setting, I
found it easier and faster to balance saturation to my tastes.


For all you control-freak/desktop junkies (e.g. me), its worth a
day or two at these "less flattering" settings to see (for
yourself) how the output merges with your post-processing workflow.
I'm thrilled with what the S1 and 30 seconds of post-work generate.
Thrilled.

Thanks,
Joe

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

--
Apples do not grow on trees.

 

[Joe Reilly129599]

Be grateful if you could mail me the actions @
[email protected]

Thanks a million,
kj

Hey folks,

By way of introduction, I've been active on DPReview for two years,
primarily on the Sony Talk Forum and, for the last year, the Canon
10D/D60/D30 forum. I launched the initial Canon DSLR Challenge
last September and I've been active there since. So, not new to
Canon, but new to this forum. Earlier this week, I picked up a
PowerShot S1 as my carry-everywhere camera and I'm having a ball.
Much of what I read here helped me make that decision, so I wanted
to offer something back. Hope it is helpful to some...

A tip I would offer to anyone accustom to post-processing most/all
of their images: Use the Custom Effect (off the Function menu) to
set your Sharpness, Contrast, and Saturation to Low. To be sure,
images come off the camera with less pop, but they are better
positioned for desktop work. Why I think so...

SHARPNESS: In experimenting with over 100 images thus far, I've
found that Low Sharpening yields a cleaner image and one that
better responds to Photoshop sharpening techniques. S1 images
sharpen very nicely via my prefered method, one that cans (into a
Photoshop action) L*A*B conversion, edge masking, variable USM, and
conversion back to RGB. Crisp and clean without crunchies. If
anyone is interested, I can email my Photoshop action set. In
addition, this minimizes image noise at higher ISOs and makes it
easier to remove at the desktop (I use Neat Image).

CONTRAST: In experimenting with excess contrast scenes, the lower
setting seems to reduce the amount of clipping at either end. Be
it a landscape shot (e.g. bright, hazy sky + much darker
foreground) or any other blend of strong darks and brights, the
output usually keeps all image data in usable form. Sure, lower
contrast shots have a slightly compressed histogram, but they seem
to rebound in Photoshop very nicely. In short, this setting seems
to preserve more image data.

SATURATION: Adding saturation at the desktop is easy, while
removing it or changing its distribution is more difficult. In my
brief experience, the S1 saturation boost favors red/orange/yellow
too much. Medium or high saturation settings yielded, in
neighborhood shots at dusk, over-powering reds in brickwork, but
comparatively muted greens and blues elsewhere. At the desktop, I
found it easy (via selective Hue/Sat or a more complex
masking/channel mixing action) to increment colors where desired
and leave others alone. Net: With the low saturation setting, I
found it easier and faster to balance saturation to my tastes.


For all you control-freak/desktop junkies (e.g. me), its worth a
day or two at these "less flattering" settings to see (for
yourself) how the output merges with your post-processing workflow.
I'm thrilled with what the S1 and 30 seconds of post-work generate.
Thrilled.

Thanks,
Joe

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

--
Apples do not grow on trees.

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

 

[itsybitsyspidy]

Thanks! You're really helpful.

Be grateful if you could mail me the actions @
[email protected]

Thanks a million,
kj

Hey folks,

By way of introduction, I've been active on DPReview for two years,
primarily on the Sony Talk Forum and, for the last year, the Canon
10D/D60/D30 forum. I launched the initial Canon DSLR Challenge
last September and I've been active there since. So, not new to
Canon, but new to this forum. Earlier this week, I picked up a
PowerShot S1 as my carry-everywhere camera and I'm having a ball.
Much of what I read here helped me make that decision, so I wanted
to offer something back. Hope it is helpful to some...

A tip I would offer to anyone accustom to post-processing most/all
of their images: Use the Custom Effect (off the Function menu) to
set your Sharpness, Contrast, and Saturation to Low. To be sure,
images come off the camera with less pop, but they are better
positioned for desktop work. Why I think so...

SHARPNESS: In experimenting with over 100 images thus far, I've
found that Low Sharpening yields a cleaner image and one that
better responds to Photoshop sharpening techniques. S1 images
sharpen very nicely via my prefered method, one that cans (into a
Photoshop action) L*A*B conversion, edge masking, variable USM, and
conversion back to RGB. Crisp and clean without crunchies. If
anyone is interested, I can email my Photoshop action set. In
addition, this minimizes image noise at higher ISOs and makes it
easier to remove at the desktop (I use Neat Image).

CONTRAST: In experimenting with excess contrast scenes, the lower
setting seems to reduce the amount of clipping at either end. Be
it a landscape shot (e.g. bright, hazy sky + much darker
foreground) or any other blend of strong darks and brights, the
output usually keeps all image data in usable form. Sure, lower
contrast shots have a slightly compressed histogram, but they seem
to rebound in Photoshop very nicely. In short, this setting seems
to preserve more image data.

SATURATION: Adding saturation at the desktop is easy, while
removing it or changing its distribution is more difficult. In my
brief experience, the S1 saturation boost favors red/orange/yellow
too much. Medium or high saturation settings yielded, in
neighborhood shots at dusk, over-powering reds in brickwork, but
comparatively muted greens and blues elsewhere. At the desktop, I
found it easy (via selective Hue/Sat or a more complex
masking/channel mixing action) to increment colors where desired
and leave others alone. Net: With the low saturation setting, I
found it easier and faster to balance saturation to my tastes.


For all you control-freak/desktop junkies (e.g. me), its worth a
day or two at these "less flattering" settings to see (for
yourself) how the output merges with your post-processing workflow.
I'm thrilled with what the S1 and 30 seconds of post-work generate.
Thrilled.

Thanks,
Joe

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

--
Apples do not grow on trees.

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

--
Apples do not grow on trees.

 

[akitakan]

Please send me your action list as well.
At [email protected]
Thank you.

Be grateful if you could mail me the actions @
[email protected]

Thanks a million,
kj

Hey folks,

By way of introduction, I've been active on DPReview for two years,
primarily on the Sony Talk Forum and, for the last year, the Canon
10D/D60/D30 forum. I launched the initial Canon DSLR Challenge
last September and I've been active there since. So, not new to
Canon, but new to this forum. Earlier this week, I picked up a
PowerShot S1 as my carry-everywhere camera and I'm having a ball.
Much of what I read here helped me make that decision, so I wanted
to offer something back. Hope it is helpful to some...

A tip I would offer to anyone accustom to post-processing most/all
of their images: Use the Custom Effect (off the Function menu) to
set your Sharpness, Contrast, and Saturation to Low. To be sure,
images come off the camera with less pop, but they are better
positioned for desktop work. Why I think so...

SHARPNESS: In experimenting with over 100 images thus far, I've
found that Low Sharpening yields a cleaner image and one that
better responds to Photoshop sharpening techniques. S1 images
sharpen very nicely via my prefered method, one that cans (into a
Photoshop action) L*A*B conversion, edge masking, variable USM, and
conversion back to RGB. Crisp and clean without crunchies. If
anyone is interested, I can email my Photoshop action set. In
addition, this minimizes image noise at higher ISOs and makes it
easier to remove at the desktop (I use Neat Image).

CONTRAST: In experimenting with excess contrast scenes, the lower
setting seems to reduce the amount of clipping at either end. Be
it a landscape shot (e.g. bright, hazy sky + much darker
foreground) or any other blend of strong darks and brights, the
output usually keeps all image data in usable form. Sure, lower
contrast shots have a slightly compressed histogram, but they seem
to rebound in Photoshop very nicely. In short, this setting seems
to preserve more image data.

SATURATION: Adding saturation at the desktop is easy, while
removing it or changing its distribution is more difficult. In my
brief experience, the S1 saturation boost favors red/orange/yellow
too much. Medium or high saturation settings yielded, in
neighborhood shots at dusk, over-powering reds in brickwork, but
comparatively muted greens and blues elsewhere. At the desktop, I
found it easy (via selective Hue/Sat or a more complex
masking/channel mixing action) to increment colors where desired
and leave others alone. Net: With the low saturation setting, I
found it easier and faster to balance saturation to my tastes.


For all you control-freak/desktop junkies (e.g. me), its worth a
day or two at these "less flattering" settings to see (for
yourself) how the output merges with your post-processing workflow.
I'm thrilled with what the S1 and 30 seconds of post-work generate.
Thrilled.

Thanks,
Joe

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

--
Apples do not grow on trees.

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

 

[thw]

Can you email the action to me at: [email protected]? Thanks a million.

 

[HaplessClick]

Thank you for the examples - I was curious to compare just how "flat" the original shots are with the more neutral settings. While I'm not the avid post-processor that you certainly are, I think I'll set my "C" setting to -1 all settings for shots that I know I'll post-process later.

Thanks for the tips,

Aron

Before...

http://www.pbase.com/image/31678114

After...

http://www.pbase.com/image/31678189

Perhaps counter-intuitive to ask the camera to deliver a softer
image, and certainly not an approach for those that do not
post-process. But I continue to believe it positions one for
faster and more effective work at the desktop.

Joe

Before...

http://www.pbase.com/image/31677077

After...

http://www.pbase.com/image/31677039

Hi Joe,

Thanks for the tips. Could you post an original shot at your
suggested low sharpening, contrast, etc. settings and the shot
post-processed? I would be very curious to see a before/after
example of this approach for S1 shots.

Many thanks,

Aron

--
Aron Digumarthi
[email protected]
http://www.pbase.com/gern

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

--
Aron Digumarthi
[email protected]
http://www.pbase.com/gern

 

[HaplessClick]

By the way, I really enjoyed your 10D shots in your galleries - very nice work.

Aron
--
Aron Digumarthi
[email protected]
http://www.pbase.com/gern

 

[Trent Carb]

Hi,

If're not exhausted emailing the PS Action Set, I would like to ask you mailing me as well...

Best regards,
Trent

 

[Overseer]

...passes Joe a beer !

I see the forums already keeping you busy ...lol

Hee hee, if this keeps up we might need to start a new thread/reach the single thread posting limit.

If it would help / save you from lotsa individual emailing .... i could host the file for you with a direct link, if that might be of assistance ?,
though that tends to lack the personal touch

On a side note did you recieve my request ? - I emailed you direct using your DPreview email - is that email still active ?

Overseer.-Preparing for a holiday!

 

[JM_D]

I am also interested by your photoshop action.
Thanks.

JM_D

tromedlov at netcourrier.com

 

[viP244583]

I am also interested by your photoshop action.
viP
[email protected]

 

[xy11yz]

Can you email your Photoshop action set, please.
My email is: [email protected].
Thank you.

Hey folks,

By way of introduction, I've been active on DPReview for two years,
primarily on the Sony Talk Forum and, for the last year, the Canon
10D/D60/D30 forum. I launched the initial Canon DSLR Challenge
last September and I've been active there since. So, not new to
Canon, but new to this forum. Earlier this week, I picked up a
PowerShot S1 as my carry-everywhere camera and I'm having a ball.
Much of what I read here helped me make that decision, so I wanted
to offer something back. Hope it is helpful to some...

A tip I would offer to anyone accustom to post-processing most/all
of their images: Use the Custom Effect (off the Function menu) to
set your Sharpness, Contrast, and Saturation to Low. To be sure,
images come off the camera with less pop, but they are better
positioned for desktop work. Why I think so...

SHARPNESS: In experimenting with over 100 images thus far, I've
found that Low Sharpening yields a cleaner image and one that
better responds to Photoshop sharpening techniques. S1 images
sharpen very nicely via my prefered method, one that cans (into a
Photoshop action) L*A*B conversion, edge masking, variable USM, and
conversion back to RGB. Crisp and clean without crunchies. If
anyone is interested, I can email my Photoshop action set. In
addition, this minimizes image noise at higher ISOs and makes it
easier to remove at the desktop (I use Neat Image).

CONTRAST: In experimenting with excess contrast scenes, the lower
setting seems to reduce the amount of clipping at either end. Be
it a landscape shot (e.g. bright, hazy sky + much darker
foreground) or any other blend of strong darks and brights, the
output usually keeps all image data in usable form. Sure, lower
contrast shots have a slightly compressed histogram, but they seem
to rebound in Photoshop very nicely. In short, this setting seems
to preserve more image data.

SATURATION: Adding saturation at the desktop is easy, while
removing it or changing its distribution is more difficult. In my
brief experience, the S1 saturation boost favors red/orange/yellow
too much. Medium or high saturation settings yielded, in
neighborhood shots at dusk, over-powering reds in brickwork, but
comparatively muted greens and blues elsewhere. At the desktop, I
found it easy (via selective Hue/Sat or a more complex
masking/channel mixing action) to increment colors where desired
and leave others alone. Net: With the low saturation setting, I
found it easier and faster to balance saturation to my tastes.


For all you control-freak/desktop junkies (e.g. me), its worth a
day or two at these "less flattering" settings to see (for
yourself) how the output merges with your post-processing workflow.
I'm thrilled with what the S1 and 30 seconds of post-work generate.
Thrilled.

Thanks,
Joe

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix