RX100 VII HDR Bracketing with darktable

mrt3

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Good day,

so I read a bit about bracketing to create HDR photos. I wanted to test this a bit with my RX100 VII, so I took a couple shots with +/- 2 EV just to see how it goes.

Note that I am on Linux, so I don't have Lightroom unfortunately, I use "darktable". I don't know if this is good, but to my knowledge, the only software that can even open the SONY "ARW" files.

Anyways, I took a couple shots with bracketing and tried to merge them into a HDR image. And for some reason I am not happy with the result, in fact I think it looks even worse than the original images. I am sure I do something wrong, cause I am fairly new to this topic.

So below are the 3 bracketed images, -2EV, 0EV and +2EV. I used "Aperture priority" mode of the camera to shoot the pictures, and I used the RAW file format only.

bd8cf9dc65fc435981a3a66356f43ec0.jpg



f4abfdda899e47aaa144c380aa4a90cd.jpg



7055eceaa8ea407dab3bcd75216e8dbf.jpg



Now I have imported the three images into darktable and used the "Create HDR" function.

I also tried "lens correction", "haze removal" and "chromatic aberrations". The resulting image is this:

c28074df1ebe4bbbbf78147dc1a93f5a.jpg

I think it is almost worse than the 0EV image. The colors are somewhat dull and it seems somehow blurry, but does not become better when I try "sharpen". So I am for sure doing something wrong with my RAW files. I know this is not a perfect scene for testing HDR, but I expected, using HDR, to have the sky a bit more crisp and detailed clouds, while the grass in the foreground should still be good. Actually, I like the sky in the -2EV image a lot, and in the +2EV image one can see also a bit better the structures between the trees. But in the HDR image, actually nothing is good, so I think I either do it wrong or my camera is not suitable for this?

I have another example. Here is the sun visible in the scene and therefore some parts are overexposed. This is -2EV:

f52616c71af947f48d3b846b4877f057.jpg

This is 0EV:

d7cbf502654f47ab8485790632c09b2c.jpg

and this +2EV:



c262e4d9f91a4f53a6d04f50ec82d5af.jpg

Clearly, on the +2EV most parts are overexposed, but near the forest, the tree branch structures and so on can be seen much better than in all other images. So I expected I can combine these images together, and have a well visible sky, with the clouds visible, but also the tree branches visible on the forest part in the background. Plus it would have been good if the wood structure on the foreground would be visible. However, this is the result that darktable gives me:



7174f8fa09d14cb19ac9aea990d88e6e.jpg

It is good in that sense that the structures of the clouds in the sky and on the wood in the foreground are visible, but the forest is just one black lump. In fact the HDR is here even much worse than all the other shots.



I am a bit confused, because I watched some tutorials about HDR bracketing in Youtube, but most people of course use Lightroom, and there, you click one button and have an almost perfect HDR image. It seems to me that almost nobody used darktable, so I wonder if it is even possible what I want to do?

Do I need now to purchase a Mac just to be able to run Lightroom? :-)
 
You will certainly get a wide choice of far better products on Windows or a Mac. Using Linux seems to be some kind of penance to prevent yourself from using good software.

if you can share the raw files (using something like Dropbox) we can show you what’s possible using decent software.
 
FWIW, I do HRD all of the time with my little RX100 VII. I carry it as a field action camera because I can't manage a big ILC and a sack of lenses while I am out upland bird hunting. Point and honor on a covey of sharptail grouse in Montana:



306f8de6cb8f402393f4114b633435af.jpg

My wife taking a flush over a nice point in Pennsylvania:



429fda39dba0485e804f83417186d2d1.jpg





Since we go to remote places, east and west, it is not uncommon to come across a pretty scene that I'd like to capture. Often those scenes present with a high dynamic range and I do a 5 shot bracket on the RX100 VII, with 1/3 stop difference between each shot. Joy by an old PA Dutch log farmhouse late in the day:



33b7bd6dfe9143f1a935db50706b19a0.jpg

Old ranch house miles from anywhere on the Montana prairie:



7c6b3a56d04941009cd90e131f6b86df.jpg

I don't know anything about darktable - never heard of it. For some years, I used regular Adobe Photoshop to combine the five files with different exposures. Then I discovered HDR Efex Pro 2, which is an add-on to PS. A world of difference. Easy to use, endless possibilities to get the image you really want, etc. Highly recommended!

Works with other cameras, too:



a4015afb681c4377af2f74b37d9b7664.jpg

Greg



--
Check out my photos at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/137747053@N07/
 
Anyways, I took a couple shots with bracketing and tried to merge them into a HDR image. And for some reason I am not happy with the result, in fact I think it looks even worse than the original images. I am sure I do something wrong, cause I am fairly new to this topic.

c28074df1ebe4bbbbf78147dc1a93f5a.jpg

I think it is almost worse than the 0EV image. The colors are somewhat dull and it seems somehow blurry, but does not become better when I try "sharpen". So I am for sure doing something wrong with my RAW files.
The final image is not properly aligned. You can see this by looking at the grasses in the foreground, where there are many double or triple images.

I don't know if this is because the software doesn't offer alignment, or if it doesn't do it well, or if you didn't activate the alignment option, or if the (presumably hand-held) images were too different to properly align.

UPDATE: Apparently darktable does not align images before blending them, and you have to do that yourself with some other software. See the comments starting at the 42 second mark of this recent video:


The double/triple images might also have affected the appearance of colors, which seem good except in the area of the grasses.

In your second example, the final result is way off from what it should be, and is too dark to analyze. I would expect something similar to this result made from your three JPEGs, although fully featured HDR software offers many different choices for final tone mapping:

One of several possible HDR results
One of several possible HDR results

Apart from the lack of an autoalignement feature, maybe darktable has other issues with HDR in general, but I don't know. Have you checked online reviews of the software to see what others have said about that?
 
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I think HDRmerge is free and well respected. Check it out here: https://jcelaya.github.io/hdrmerge/documentation/2014/05/24/what-is-hdrmerge.html

I have a copy of Aurora HDR 2018 by Skylum that was free at the time but no longer available as far as I know. If you can find a copy it's pretty good. Check out this website for old versions of software: www.OldVersion.com. I didn't see any HDRs listed.

As someone above noted the NIK collection is very good, but again it's owned by DXO now and isn't cheap. Go here: https://nikcollection.dxo.com/nik-hdr-efex/ A free trial is available.

I also use ACDSee Ultimate 2025 which will do HDR, but it's not the greatest. A free trial is available.
 
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Apart from the lack of an autoalignement feature, maybe darktable has other issues with HDR in general, but I don't know. Have you checked online reviews of the software to see what others have said about that?
Watching the rest of the video I reference earlier, it appears that darktable requires you to manually apply tone mapping to the merged image using various adjustments. If you aren't doing that, the result will not be optimal. That process is much more tedious than it is with good HDR software, which can automatically apply a range of tone mapping options that you can choose from, and then quickly tweak for the result you want.
 
Apart from the lack of an autoalignement feature, maybe darktable has other issues with HDR in general, but I don't know. Have you checked online reviews of the software to see what others have said about that?
Watching the rest of the video I reference earlier, it appears that darktable requires you to manually apply tone mapping to the merged image using various adjustments. If you aren't doing that, the result will not be optimal. That process is much more tedious than it is with good HDR software, which can automatically apply a range of tone mapping options that you can choose from, and then quickly tweak for the result you want.
The problem for the OP is that it’s unlikely that any good HDR or raw image processing software runs on Linux. There’s a wealth of good choices on Windows and Mac, but few commercial software vendors bother with Linux, presumably because few Linux users are prepared to pay for software.
 
Welcome to the forum, nice photo, interesting topic, probable lousy software.

Your 0.0 ev photo looks very good, no need for HDR IMO. You are lucky with your camera I think.

+/- 2ev is too large a step I suspect

many of these cameras, my m3 and m6, over-expose skies, and some of us shoot them outdoors -.3ev or -.7 ev, to get sky color and sky detail (like what you got at 0.0ev), and we simply lift shadows in PP, it is surprising how much detail is captured in shadow areas. As you know, trying to cut highlights leads to trouble fast.

When my rx100m1 was new, I tried Exposure bracketing, NEVER liked the over-exposed version, and found a trick, I combine EV Bracketing, say +/- 0.7ev with -.3 or -.7 ev on the EV wheel, thus I get 0.0, -0.7; -1.4ev (rear bottom rocker is default +/- ev compensation)

i.e. start a bit under, the over is your 0.0 and the under is a 2nd under choice.

You can also let the camera make you an alternate HDR of any photo:

JPEG, not RAW, try it just to know:

menu, camera 1, page 9, DRO/Auto HDR, select HDR Auto, or use the right rocker, select the amount of ev steps. Remember to hold the camera steady, and hold the shutter button a bit longer: it will take 3 or 4 shots and produce two photos, one single exposure (use your bottom rocker +/-ev as desired for the single shot) , and it will create an alternate HDR already blended by the processor.

..........................................

Greg is a phenomenal photographer, you should know that he imports skies into his photos if advantageous to his intent.

..............................................

Bill, inactive these days, is a master at HDR, taking Western Landscapes, Panoramas: Tripod, possible 8 frames wide, 5 exposures each, blending 40 photos for something unachievable otherwise.

--
Elliott
 
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The final image is not properly aligned. You can see this by looking at the grasses in the foreground, where there are many double or triple images.

I don't know if this is because the software doesn't offer alignment, or if it doesn't do it well, or if you didn't activate the alignment option, or if the (presumably hand-held) images were too different to properly align.

UPDATE: Apparently darktable does not align i


FWIW, HDR Efex Pro 2 does a great job of aligning images. I cannot carry a tripod except in very rare situations, so all of my HDR sequences are shot handheld. Even as quickly as the great little RX100 VII shoots the 5 images with different exposures and as careful as I try to be, image alignment can still be pretty far off, but the software handles that perfectly.

Also, one can use HDR for subjects that have moving elements. If you don't try to get too crazy, the software can handle that, too - as with these quickly moving waves on Two Medicine Lake:



248f36da2d85400fb18cba031aafd07a.jpg

Greg

--
Check out my photos at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/137747053@N07/
 
found Bill's 40 exposure HDR, the large metal print on his wall is outstanding

e9822a09072445318c9f9c26e986ff78.jpg

once you get your preferences and choices figured out, batch processing, alignments, blends, merges, it is ridiculous how he makes it appear easy.

waterfalls is another category he uses HDR to great advantage, he processed some of mine.

I combine an ND Filter for chosen water speed, with a CPL filter primarily for the sky, take one shot, good enough for me.

Elliott
 
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Apart from the lack of an autoalignement feature, maybe darktable has other issues with HDR in general, but I don't know. Have you checked online reviews of the software to see what others have said about that?
Watching the rest of the video I reference earlier, it appears that darktable requires you to manually apply tone mapping to the merged image using various adjustments. If you aren't doing that, the result will not be optimal. That process is much more tedious than it is with good HDR software, which can automatically apply a range of tone mapping options that you can choose from, and then quickly tweak for the result you want.
The problem for the OP is that it’s unlikely that any good HDR or raw image processing software runs on Linux. There’s a wealth of good choices on Windows and Mac, but few commercial software vendors bother with Linux, presumably because few Linux users are prepared to pay for software.
Yes, I know. I'm just informing him of his current software's limitations, and what he would need to do about them.

If he has $49 to spare, this could make his HDR life much easier:

https://www.hdrsoft.com/download.html#linux-app
 
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The final image is not properly aligned. You can see this by looking at the grasses in the foreground, where there are many double or triple images.

I don't know if this is because the software doesn't offer alignment, or if it doesn't do it well, or if you didn't activate the alignment option, or if the (presumably hand-held) images were too different to properly align.

UPDATE: Apparently darktable does not align images before blending them ...
FWIW, HDR Efex Pro 2 does a great job of aligning images.
That's good, but does it run on Linux, which is the OP's operating system? Apparently not.

I use different HDR software that does autoalignment and presents a wide range of tone mapping options, and a version is available for Linux:

 
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That's good, but does it run on Linux, which is the OP's operating system? Apparently not.
I'm not technically oriented and should have known better than to get involved in a technical discussion here, even though I was trying to help. I care about the image and not so much about how it is made. I won't bother you again.

Greg
 
Good day all

Sorry for my late reply. For some reason, I did not get the email alert that there are responses to my thread!

I will read through the comments and reply. Of course I can also share the RAW files. I uploaded them to my Nextcloud and they can be accessed through the following link:


(link expires in 2 weeks)

I will in the meantime read all responses and comment!

thanks a lot :-)
 
Good day all

Sorry for my late reply. For some reason, I did not get the email alert that there are responses to my thread!

I will read through the comments and reply. Of course I can also share the RAW files. I uploaded them to my Nextcloud and they can be accessed through the following link:

https://nextcloud.hb9fsx.ch/index.php/s/WNzJB9tBH9LMBBC

(link expires in 2 weeks)

I will in the meantime read all responses and comment!

thanks a lot :-)
Sorry, I was away over Christmas. I used DxO PhotoLab 8 to process just the -2EV versions of both scenes (these images don't have a high enough dynamic range to need HDR processing). In both cases, note that these images are wider, sharper, with more detail:





Image 204
Image 204







Image 192
Image 192
 

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