RF 85/2, focus stacking, near macro, LED

[drsnoopy]

Does anyone have experience using the RF 85mm f2 for focus bracketing & stacking? This would be with R5 and R7. I’ve done focus bracketing with my EF 100/2.8 L macro with R5 (stacked in post) and my 18-150 on the R7 (stacked in camera), both work well. I understand macro ratios, image size, sensor size, issues with haloes etc, so I’m really only asking about this lens, plus the practicality of using a continuous LED light source, which is new to me.

I’m going to Madagascar and considering the 85/2 rather than the EF 100/2.8L plus adapter to take as I’m severely weight constrained on internal flights. I won’t need 1:1 macro, as I won’t be photographing tiny bugs. Is the slowish AF motor sufficiently fast for focus bracketing? How close is the working distance (front element) when focusing at say 1:2? Due to lack of flash with focus bracketing on these bodies I’m planning to use an LED light source (Smallrig) that I bought. Any relevant experience or tips would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[drsnoopy]

Does anyone have experience using the RF 85mm f2 for focus bracketing & stacking? This would be with R5 and R7. I’ve done focus bracketing with my EF 100/2.8 L macro with R5 (stacked in post) and my 18-150 on the R7 (stacked in camera), both work well. I understand macro ratios, image size, sensor size, issues with haloes etc, so I’m really only asking about this lens, plus the practicality of using a continuous LED light source, which is new to me.

I’m going to Madagascar and considering the 85/2 rather than the EF 100/2.8L plus adapter to take as I’m severely weight constrained on internal flights. I won’t need 1:1 macro, as I won’t be photographing tiny bugs. Is the slowish AF motor sufficiently fast for focus bracketing? How close is the working distance (front element) when focusing at say 1:2? Due to lack of flash with focus bracketing on these bodies I’m planning to use an LED light source (Smallrig) that I bought. Any relevant experience or tips would be appreciated. Thanks!

No takers for focus bracketing / stacking with the RF 85/2 ?

 

[Alastair Norcross]

Does anyone have experience using the RF 85mm f2 for focus bracketing & stacking? This would be with R5 and R7. I’ve done focus bracketing with my EF 100/2.8 L macro with R5 (stacked in post) and my 18-150 on the R7 (stacked in camera), both work well. I understand macro ratios, image size, sensor size, issues with haloes etc, so I’m really only asking about this lens, plus the practicality of using a continuous LED light source, which is new to me.

I’m going to Madagascar and considering the 85/2 rather than the EF 100/2.8L plus adapter to take as I’m severely weight constrained on internal flights. I won’t need 1:1 macro, as I won’t be photographing tiny bugs. Is the slowish AF motor sufficiently fast for focus bracketing? How close is the working distance (front element) when focusing at say 1:2? Due to lack of flash with focus bracketing on these bodies I’m planning to use an LED light source (Smallrig) that I bought. Any relevant experience or tips would be appreciated. Thanks!

No takers for focus bracketing / stacking with the RF 85/2 ?

I have yet to use it for that, but I'm sure the focus speed will be plenty fast enough. The camera only takes the image when the focus adjusts, so you don't have to worry about a moving object being too fast for the focus. Are you worries about handholding the bracket, or are you planning on using a tripod?

--
“When I die, I want to go peacefully in my sleep like my grandfather. Not screaming in terror, like the passengers in his car.” Jack Handey
Alastair
http://anorcross.smugmug.com
Equipment in profile

 

[drsnoopy]

Does anyone have experience using the RF 85mm f2 for focus bracketing & stacking? This would be with R5 and R7. I’ve done focus bracketing with my EF 100/2.8 L macro with R5 (stacked in post) and my 18-150 on the R7 (stacked in camera), both work well. I understand macro ratios, image size, sensor size, issues with haloes etc, so I’m really only asking about this lens, plus the practicality of using a continuous LED light source, which is new to me.

I’m going to Madagascar and considering the 85/2 rather than the EF 100/2.8L plus adapter to take as I’m severely weight constrained on internal flights. I won’t need 1:1 macro, as I won’t be photographing tiny bugs. Is the slowish AF motor sufficiently fast for focus bracketing? How close is the working distance (front element) when focusing at say 1:2? Due to lack of flash with focus bracketing on these bodies I’m planning to use an LED light source (Smallrig) that I bought. Any relevant experience or tips would be appreciated. Thanks!

No takers for focus bracketing / stacking with the RF 85/2 ?

I have yet to use it for that, but I'm sure the focus speed will be plenty fast enough. The camera only takes the image when the focus adjusts, so you don't have to worry about a moving object being too fast for the focus. Are you worries about handholding the bracket, or are you planning on using a tripod?

 

[JustUs7]

If you’re using continuous light LED’s, consider using the high frequency anti flicker mode to set the custom shutter speed, if you have an RF camera with that feature. Automatic focus bracketing is in electronic shutter always. Your cameras maximum fps in e-shutter and image stabilization will determine how easy it is to hand hold a bracket.


You can see the banding in this one taken with the RP and RF 35 f/1.8 in one of my earliest attempts at focus bracketing. Granted, the RP has a slow reading electronic shutter.

The 85 f/2 does just fine. It’s what I use for most of my focusing bracketing these days. In terms of distance from the end of the lens, just look up the minimum focus distance (35 cm), maximum length (12 cm because the front element extends when close focusing) plus the flange distance (2 cm). And there you go. 21 cm at minimum focus distance. A bit over 8 inches to your subject from the end of the front element for 0.5x magnification.

The 85 f/2 does suffer from a fair bit of focus breathing that needs to be cropped for in the finished stack. Optical Bench says it’s 77.13mm’s at its minimum focus distance and 82.73mm’s at infinity.


This was testing out a hand held stack in camera with the R6II and the 85 f/2. You can see some artifacts of the shallow depth of field that one might clean up if they were using software to stack the images This was at f/2.2 I don’t recall the number of images stacked.

 

[drsnoopy]

If you’re using continuous light LED’s, consider using the high frequency anti flicker mode to set the custom shutter speed, if you have an RF camera with that feature. Automatic focus bracketing is in electronic shutter always. Your cameras maximum fps in e-shutter and image stabilization will determine how easy it is to hand hold a bracket.


You can see the banding in this one taken with the RP and RF 35 f/1.8 in one of my earliest attempts at focus bracketing. Granted, the RP has a slow reading electronic shutter.

The 85 f/2 does just fine. It’s what I use for most of my focusing bracketing these days. In terms of distance from the end of the lens, just look up the minimum focus distance (35 cm), maximum length (12 cm because the front element extends when close focusing) plus the flange distance (2 cm). And there you go. 21 cm at minimum focus distance. A bit over 8 inches to your subject from the end of the front element for 0.5x magnification.

The 85 f/2 does suffer from a fair bit of focus breathing that needs to be cropped for in the finished stack. Optical Bench says it’s 77.13mm’s at its minimum focus distance and 82.73mm’s at infinity.


This was testing out a hand held stack in camera with the R6II and the 85 f/2. You can see some artifacts of the shallow depth of field that one might clean up if they were using software to stack the images This was at f/2.2 I don’t recall the number of images stacked.

Thanks, that’s really useful. I’ll be careful to test for banding with the LED panel, and yes both R7 and R5 have that feature. The working distance info is helpful, I doubt I will often be as close as 1:2, so it should be fine. Your flower image is very similar to results I’ve been getting handheld with the R7 plus 18-150, though I tend to use f5.6.

 

[R2D2]

If you’re using continuous light LED’s, consider using the high frequency anti flicker mode to set the custom shutter speed, if you have an RF camera with that feature. Automatic focus bracketing is in electronic shutter always. Your cameras maximum fps in e-shutter and image stabilization will determine how easy it is to hand hold a bracket.


You can see the banding in this one taken with the RP and RF 35 f/1.8 in one of my earliest attempts at focus bracketing. Granted, the RP has a slow reading electronic shutter.

The 85 f/2 does just fine. It’s what I use for most of my focusing bracketing these days. In terms of distance from the end of the lens, just look up the minimum focus distance (35 cm), maximum length (12 cm because the front element extends when close focusing) plus the flange distance (2 cm). And there you go. 21 cm at minimum focus distance. A bit over 8 inches to your subject from the end of the front element for 0.5x magnification.

The 85 f/2 does suffer from a fair bit of focus breathing that needs to be cropped for in the finished stack. Optical Bench says it’s 77.13mm’s at its minimum focus distance and 82.73mm’s at infinity.


This was testing out a hand held stack in camera with the R6II and the 85 f/2. You can see some artifacts of the shallow depth of field that one might clean up if they were using software to stack the images This was at f/2.2 I don’t recall the number of images stacked.

Thanks, that’s really useful. I’ll be careful to test for banding with the LED panel, and yes both R7 and R5 have that feature. The working distance info is helpful, I doubt I will often be as close as 1:2, so it should be fine. Your flower image is very similar to results I’ve been getting handheld with the R7 plus 18-150, though I tend to use f5.6.

Hi Doc'

+1 to JU7's info.

The RF 85/2 on the R5 takes 3.2 seconds to complete a 40 frame RAW Focus Bracket (default increment of 4). 1/1000 sec @ f/5.6, H+ set to 20 fps, @ MFD (1:2).

By comparison the RF 100/2.8 on the R5 takes 2.7 seconds (set to 1:2). Same camera settings.

With any lights designed for photo/video you shouldn't have to worry about banding, as they don't use PWM. I use a very powerful LED for shooting macros (highly recommend checking it out when you get back from vacation ;-) ).

It's the Comer Radiance found at B&H. It's important to note that its highest output (7540 Lux @ 1 meter) is at 5500K. I've verified this with my Lux Meter. CRI is a super high 97. It uses the standard Sony NP-F batteries, although I have a battery plate that I wear on my belt, with a power cord that plugs into the light (keeps weight down).

BTW you can easily use the deep (recommended ET-77) lens hood while shooting macros, because as JU7 noted, the lens barrel extends significantly when at close focus.

Have fun!

R2

--
Good judgment comes from experience.
Experience comes from bad judgment.
http://www.pbase.com/jekyll_and_hyde/galleries

 

[Marceppy]

Does anyone have experience using the RF 85mm f2 for focus bracketing & stacking? This would be with R5 and R7. I’ve done focus bracketing with my EF 100/2.8 L macro with R5 (stacked in post) and my 18-150 on the R7 (stacked in camera), both work well. I understand macro ratios, image size, sensor size, issues with haloes etc, so I’m really only asking about this lens, plus the practicality of using a continuous LED light source, which is new to me.

I’m going to Madagascar and considering the 85/2 rather than the EF 100/2.8L plus adapter to take as I’m severely weight constrained on internal flights. I won’t need 1:1 macro, as I won’t be photographing tiny bugs. Is the slowish AF motor sufficiently fast for focus bracketing? How close is the working distance (front element) when focusing at say 1:2? Due to lack of flash with focus bracketing on these bodies I’m planning to use an LED light source (Smallrig) that I bought. Any relevant experience or tips would be appreciated. Thanks!

I cannot speak to the use of the 85/2, but you can stack with the R7 and flash, just not using in-camera focus bracketing. Flash is usable in mechanical shutter and electronic first curtain. You mentioned not having a tripod with you, but you can stabilize by holding a walking stick. Lester Lefkowitz recommends gripping a pole (eg., broomstick handle or cane) and resting the lens/body on your hand to help stabilize at a preferred height. He has a post about it in the macro forum but I cant find it at present.

Incremental focus points can be added estimating DOF with autofocus. I’ve done it. Of course, a focus rail would help, or slight turns of the focus ring (if you dare). Interesting thread about the LED lamps. Shameful we can’t use our existing flashes with in-camera focus bracketing.

Good luck and safe travels!

 

[drsnoopy]

Does anyone have experience using the RF 85mm f2 for focus bracketing & stacking? This would be with R5 and R7. I’ve done focus bracketing with my EF 100/2.8 L macro with R5 (stacked in post) and my 18-150 on the R7 (stacked in camera), both work well. I understand macro ratios, image size, sensor size, issues with haloes etc, so I’m really only asking about this lens, plus the practicality of using a continuous LED light source, which is new to me.

I’m going to Madagascar and considering the 85/2 rather than the EF 100/2.8L plus adapter to take as I’m severely weight constrained on internal flights. I won’t need 1:1 macro, as I won’t be photographing tiny bugs. Is the slowish AF motor sufficiently fast for focus bracketing? How close is the working distance (front element) when focusing at say 1:2? Due to lack of flash with focus bracketing on these bodies I’m planning to use an LED light source (Smallrig) that I bought. Any relevant experience or tips would be appreciated. Thanks!

I cannot speak to the use of the 85/2, but you can stack with the R7 and flash, just not using in-camera focus bracketing. Flash is usable in mechanical shutter and electronic first curtain. You mentioned not having a tripod with you, but you can stabilize by holding a walking stick. Lester Lefkowitz recommends gripping a pole (eg., broomstick handle or cane) and resting the lens/body on your hand to help stabilize at a preferred height. He has a post about it in the macro forum but I cant find it at present.

Incremental focus points can be added estimating DOF with autofocus. I’ve done it. Of course, a focus rail would help, or slight turns of the focus ring (if you dare). Interesting thread about the LED lamps. Shameful we can’t use our existing flashes with in-camera focus bracketing.

Good luck and safe travels!

Thanks, but I do know that and have done it with a rail. Not what I’m wanting to do on this trip - I only want to use the auto focus bracketing hand held, with composite in camera or in post.

 

[drsnoopy]

I now have the loan lens at hand and have been trying it for focus bracketing/stacking in-camera.with my R7 and LED light source (Smallrig). It works ok but the speed of taking brackets is noticeably about 50% slower than my EF100L macro with adapter on the same body with same settings. Also the results show a little less sharpness and more longitudinal CA on highlights.

I’m only looking at using it for small reptiles plus flowers etc, not insects so having 1:1 isn’t necessary and in any case the crop sensor gives a useful increase in subject size in the frame compared to FF.

I also found the AF speed in general quite disappointing, despite using the focus range limit switch when appropriate. it doesn’t seem in keeping with other RF lenses, even the cheaper ones. One advantage was that it does acquire initial focus (at close distances) more quickly than the EF lens.

I’m really unsure now whether the 85/2 is a good option for me over the EF L. My aim was to save weight for a trip, but otherwise there is perhaps too much compromise. I’ll spend the rest of my loan period (today) working with it, perhaps also on my R5, and for single images with flash.

PS it’s worth reminding UK members about Canon UK’s free loan service “Try the kit”.