RAW question

[Erik Baumgartner]

This is just with cranking the Color NR in Lightroom way up (same as ACR) - it got rid of most of the rainbow artifacts too.

Adding some Color NR in Topaz Denoise also cleaned it up pretty well.

Really good results here! Looks like sophisticated tools are working here. I don't have this sort of thing in Photoshop Elements 2020, at least not where I could find it.

And it looks like this sort of sophisticated tooling will be needed regardless of glass:

I went back today and tried my Fuji 50mm F2 WR on the scene. Same rainbow problem. So this problem occurs even with genuine Fuji lenses, and the problem appears in the free Fuji/Silkypix raw developer too.


Comparison of 100% crops. Rainbows seem brightest in Velvia with the free Fuji/Silkypix raw developer. I like the rendering in Iridient better.


5mb download. Iridient-developed shot, from which the crop above was made.

Just some Color NR and the Defringe tool in LIghtroom took care of this image no problem. This isn't as bad as your first images with the other lens. I suspect that C1 must apply significant color NR/defringing by default. I don't know if that's necessarily a good thing for all images, though.


The image above with color NR/defriging in Lightroom.

 

[Tom Schum]

Try it again with no filter at all, seriously. These kinds of problems are precisely why I just use a hood.

I will... Hopefully tomorrow.

I did. I see no difference between the 50mm F2 WR with a clear filter, and the 50mm F2 WR with no filter.




As shown, hardly any difference to be seen.




5.8mb download, this is the version with the filter removed. Only the lens hood was on the lens.



--
Tom Schum
Copper: Mankind's favorite electrical conductor

 

[Tom Schum]

Just some Color NR and the Defringe tool in LIghtroom took care of this image no problem. This isn't as bad as your first images with the other lens. I suspect that C1 must apply significant color NR/defringing by default. I don't know if that's necessarily a good thing for all images, though.


The image above with color NR/defriging in Lightroom.

This is a very good result. So far, I'm resisting that mounting desire to invest in Lightroom...

I tried using color noise reduction in Iridient, could not see much reduction.

I tried using a ND-4 filter on one of my lenses (KamLan 05mm F1.1 II), to slow down the shutter speed. It resulted in a 1/300th second shutter speed at F4 instead of 1/1300th at F4. But, no significant improvement in the rainbows. The theory was that if the water can move a little, the reflections would change and sort of average out. Not so.

I'm just a hobbyist, so this color noise stuff is merely interesting to me and not interesting enough to make me spend $$ on more software. It's nice to know that I have the option though.

Next experiment might be to use a lens that is not crazy sharp, in hopes that this will make a difference. Again, not a high priority but an interesting possibility.

All I really need to do is wait for some light overcast instead of shooting in full sunlight, and this will eliminate the issue entirely.

--
Tom Schum
Copper: Mankind's favorite electrical conductor

 

[Greg7579]

I'm sure someone told you but I can't read the other replies right now.

The Fuji raw file is a raf file. "RAF, " or some say "raf."

I have found that the best way to edit them is in an Adobe program called "LightRoom."

In my opinion, you should shoot raw vs jpeg. That means you will be producing lots of nice raf files.

But of course, there are other fine photographers who might not agree with me and some think that there are advantages to shooting jpeg OOC. I disagree, but respect their opinion. We all have our needs, and sometimes those are actually fetishes.

But that is why DPR has a Fuji camera equipment discussion Board. So that I may offer my opinion to you.

You will not be sorry. Buy the XT-4 and then ask me what three lenses to get.

You are going to be very very happy.

Good move, My friend.

Carry on.

--
Greg Johnson, San Antonio, Texas
https://www.flickr.com/photos/139148982@N02/albums

 

[Erik Baumgartner]

Try it again with no filter at all, seriously. These kinds of problems are precisely why I just use a hood.

I will... Hopefully tomorrow.

I did. I see no difference between the 50mm F2 WR with a clear filter, and the 50mm F2 WR with no filter.


As shown, hardly any difference to be seen.


5.8mb download, this is the version with the filter removed. Only the lens hood was on the lens.

I only see common purple fringing here, no multi-color rainbow effect. Fringing like this is a snap with the Defringiing tool (dropper) in Lightroom (and ACR). Have you tried stopping down some more - like f/8-f/11? It will often minimize this sort of of thing.

 

[Erik Baumgartner]

Just some Color NR and the Defringe tool in LIghtroom took care of this image no problem. This isn't as bad as your first images with the other lens. I suspect that C1 must apply significant color NR/defringing by default. I don't know if that's necessarily a good thing for all images, though.


The image above with color NR/defriging in Lightroom.

This is a very good result. So far, I'm resisting that mounting desire to invest in Lightroom...

I tried using color noise reduction in Iridient, could not see much reduction.

I tried it too, can't say I'm a fan of any of the Iridient NR, I find to be quite subpar, especially for very high ISO images. I always set it to NONE.

I tried using a ND-4 filter on one of my lenses (KamLan 05mm F1.1 II), to slow down the shutter speed. It resulted in a 1/300th second shutter speed at F4 instead of 1/1300th at F4. But, no significant improvement in the rainbows. The theory was that if the water can move a little, the reflections would change and sort of average out. Not so.

Like I mentioned in a reply above, stopping down will minimize the CA in very high contrast areas.

I'm just a hobbyist, so this color noise stuff is merely interesting to me and not interesting enough to make me spend $$ on more software. It's nice to know that I have the option though.

Don't you have ACR? It can do anything Lightroom can do, pretty much the same thing with a different user interface

Next experiment might be to use a lens that is not crazy sharp, in hopes that this will make a difference. Again, not a high priority but an interesting possibility.

All I really need to do is wait for some light overcast instead of shooting in full sunlight, and this will eliminate the issue entirely.

Intense contrast, like in these sunny scenes, can be problematic with any lens.

 

[Erik Baumgartner]

Try it again with no filter at all, seriously. These kinds of problems are precisely why I just use a hood.

I will... Hopefully tomorrow.

I did. I see no difference between the 50mm F2 WR with a clear filter, and the 50mm F2 WR with no filter.


As shown, hardly any difference to be seen.

If you look very closely you will see that there is significantly more rainbow color in the filter shot, the filterless example seems to be primarily just purple fringing.

Here's the image above with one click of the Definging tool in LR. You can see significantly more rainbow color remaining in the clear filter shot. Both of these look MUCH better than your original example with the other lens with the cheap filter. I didn't apply any additional color NR etc. here at all, the original example required a lot.

My opinion:

Inexpensive lens + inexpensive filter + intense contrast = bad rainbow effect, bad fringing.

Better lens + better + intense contrast = milder rainbow effect, bad fringing.

Better lens + no filter + intense contrast = mostly only fringing.


One click with the Defringe dropper in LR

 

[Tom Schum]

Don't you have ACR? It can do anything Lightroom can do, pretty much the same thing with a different user interface
Intense contrast, like in these sunny scenes, can be problematic with any lens.

I have a version of Adobe Camera Raw, version 12.0.0.321. It's probably last year's version or a limited implementation. It was bundled for free with Photoshop Elements 2020.

I don't see any tool to de-fringe. There are a few options to reduce color noise but they don't seem to do anything. I believe I have preview enabled.

Yes you're right, full sun is causing many of these problems.

At this point I'm not willing to spend $$ on more software. The in-camera JPGs do not show the color fringing. I can use them if I want to. It's good enough.

I have to draw a line somewhere so I'll draw it here. No more software.

 

[baobob]

fuji raw File Converter is also worth a look and Raw Therapee as well thoughb theuser interface is not as pleasant as with Adobe CC 2020 (144€/year)

 

[baobob]

Fuji RFC EX3 Raw Therapee 5.7

 

[Mark Hollister]

I'm sure someone told you but I can't read the other replies right now.

The Fuji raw file is a raf file. "RAF, " or some say "raf."

I have found that the best way to edit them is in an Adobe program called "LightRoom."

In my opinion, you should shoot raw vs jpeg. That means you will be producing lots of nice raf files.

But of course, there are other fine photographers who might not agree with me and some think that there are advantages to shooting jpeg OOC. I disagree, but respect their opinion. We all have our needs, and sometimes those are actually fetishes.

But that is why DPR has a Fuji camera equipment discussion Board. So that I may offer my opinion to you.

You will not be sorry. Buy the XT-4 and then ask me what three lenses to get.

You are going to be very very happy.

Good move, My friend.

Carry on.

I agree with what you said, Greg, but there is one other minor thing (for the color blind) that I'd tack on. Shoot raw & jpg, edit the raw to completion but at the end, drag the jpg on top of your final layer and set it to color blend, then merge. Fuji has such great OOC color, perfect to add to the final result, and needless to say no worries about whacked out colors that a colorblind person can't see.

Colorblindness (and blindness) runs in my family, fortunately I've tested repeatedly as having perfect color vision.

 

[jrg]

I'm sure someone told you but I can't read the other replies right now.

The Fuji raw file is a raf file. "RAF, " or some say "raf."

I have found that the best way to edit them is in an Adobe program called "LightRoom."

In my opinion, you should shoot raw vs jpeg. That means you will be producing lots of nice raf files.

But of course, there are other fine photographers who might not agree with me and some think that there are advantages to shooting jpeg OOC. I disagree, but respect their opinion. We all have our needs, and sometimes those are actually fetishes.

But that is why DPR has a Fuji camera equipment discussion Board. So that I may offer my opinion to you.

You will not be sorry. Buy the XT-4 and then ask me what three lenses to get.

You are going to be very very happy.

Good move, My friend.

Carry on.

Just spotted this (am not getting forum update notices for some reason).

Reason I haven't bought the T-4 yet is because I'm still debating whether "to prime or not to prime or to zoom or not to zoom." So I'll take you up on your offer, what three lenses should I get?

 

[Richard Katris]

Super answer there I couldn't add much more! On point.