R50 Review: Small and capable, but with limitations

Ali

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I have a Canon R5. However, for most of my on-the-go usage, I have a Canon M6II, which is a compact and very capable camera.

Since Canon isn't releasing any new M cameras, I have been eyeing APS-C options on the market. While Sony and Fuji have some tempting options, I was waiting for Canon. R50 is the first Canon R APS-C body that came close to being compact enough to replace the M6II, so I decided to get one.

I did sweat over the decision for a while, since Canon’s primary market for this camera does not seem to include someone like me: A “prosumer,” a non-professional who uses higher-end cameras and has some sophisticated expectations. So I decided to keep an open mind to see if this camera satisfied enough of my needs, and whether the design choices Canon made got in my way. Please do keep in mind that this review is not targeting the primary market Canon seems to have in mind for the R50.

Canon markets the R50 as an entry level camera: “A great camera for those who are looking to lean into interchangeable lenses.” This comes across in the low price, and in many of the hardware specs:
  • small battery
  • small viewfinder
  • small buffer
  • no mechanical shutter
  • no sensor cleaning
  • no in-body image stabilization
  • few physical buttons
  • 24 MP sensor
It also comes thru in some artificial software limitations, such as:
  • You cannot change the ISO increment value, it's fixed at ⅓ stop. So it takes three clicks to go from 100 to 200 ISO. I prefer 1 stop increments. (And frankly I am surprised in absence of a control for this, Canon set the value to ⅓ rather than a more user-friendly 1.)
  • Another setting you can’t change is what the magnify button does when viewing an image; I usually change that to zoom to 100% directly so I can check focus. On the R50 the magnify button just incrementally zooms in. I'm not sure how many clicks it takes to get to actual pixels.
  • When taking 3-shot HDR photos, R50 does not save the individual RAW images. While a beginner user would be content with the single combined JPEG, a more advanced user who has gone out of their way to set their default format to RAW would probably enjoy and expect the RAWs in addition to the JPEG.
The above three are small things that I have enjoyed in my recent Canon cameras, and are things I assumed would be there on the R50 as well. It’s a bit disappointing that Canon decided these features (and likely some other things that I haven’t yet noticed) were not appropriate for the R50. While not including some features does simplify the user interface some, it’s not like these make a big difference - the R50’s menus and settings are not appreciably simpler than the R5, and neither is the user manual. Canon could have easily put settings for these in the advanced “Custom Functions” menu, which the R50 has.

Lack of sensor cleaning is a longer term concern. I do not know whether dirt on the sensor will be a problem over time. I used early DSLRs for many years without any sort of sensor cleaning, and no perceived problems, but R50 has smaller pixels.

These limitations aside, I find the R50 to be a capable enough camera:
  • Auto focus feels as solid as that on the R5, and better than the M6II.
  • Photos look fantastic. Although I was concerned about going from M6II’s 32MP down to 24MP, in practice I haven’t seen this to be an issue. I think only cases requiring heavy cropping will suffer from this deficiency.
  • Camera is very responsive.
  • Burst shot capabilities - fast but limited to a relatively small buffer - are more than good enough for my casual use cases, and I imagine many others.
  • Fully articulating rear touch screen works well.
  • Video specs are very good, and the few videos I shot look great. However, I am not a video person.
  • Creative assist and Advanced A+ modes look interesting, but also not features I reach for since I usually just shoot RAW.
I was concerned about having fewer physical controls on the R50 compared to the M6II. While I am very much a direct control person, I am finding this to be not as serious of an issue as I feared - the things I most frequently change are straightforward enough: Turn a dial for aperture value; click a button then turn the same dial for exposure; same with ISO. You can configure the customizable control ring on RF lenses for immediate control of most settings. The “Q” menu and most controls are also customizable.

The R50 is a small and light camera. It fits well in my hand and I find it comfortable to use. It is and feels lighter than the M6II. Even though it is slightly bulkier, I was happy to find that when equipped with a lens it fits well into the same camera bags my M6II fit into with a similar lens.

For me one use case where the M6II shines is events where “pro cameras” are not allowed. I usually have no problems bringing the M6II + 55-200mm into rock concerts. (Except for one ZZTop concert where a sharp-eyed security guard identified it as an ILC rather than just a point and shoot.) The R50, with its “classic DSLR” styling, is less likely to get past security in such cases. I haven’t had the chance to test this use case yet.

One thing I really enjoy about the R50 that I couldn’t do with the M6II is the ability to use my RF lenses - the 800mm f/11 for instance. The 28-70mm f/2 also works on the R50, but given its size and weight, is a rather awkward experience.

It was also a joy to find that my old EF lenses, including a pretty old Sigma EF-S 18-125mm lens, just work. I was delighted that even with this lens the R50 is able to show the focal length live in the viewfinder - which, by the way, is a feature I do not have on the R5 or M6II.

One downside with lenses for the R50 is the serious gaps in the RF-S lens range. At this point there are no direct equivalents of the EF-M 32mm, 22mm, or 11-22mm. You can approximate them with RF or EF lenses, or third party manual focus RF-S lenses, but you can’t for instance recreate the magic of M6II + EF-M 32mm f/1.4 just yet. I hope it’s just a matter of time.

Do I recommend the R50?
  • It’s the obvious option for anyone looking for the cheapest possible, or the smallest/lightest R camera.
  • It’s a great choice for anyone looking for an capable but inexpensive ILC, and doesn’t require a full line-up of small lenses yet.
  • It’s a good replacement for the M50II, and a good (but slightly less so) one for the M6II. However the question here is more complicated because changing from the M to the R system means you give up the existing lenses, and need to evaluate whether the RF or RF-S lenses can satisfy your needs. And additionally, if size is your most important consideration, the M series cameras have an advantage.
  • Lack of some advanced features - things like the small burst buffer or the 24MP sensor - may be showstoppers for some use cases. They are not for me.
For the time being I personally am keeping both the R50 and the M6II, since I have use cases for both cameras and there are things each can do the other one can’t.

I wish that as Canon introduces more APS-C R cameras, they disassociate “compact” and “beginner / low-priced.” They should look to produce an R camera that is small as possible while not sacrificing advanced features. Small doesn’t need to mean inexpensive or "entry level."

A related wish of course is for capable RF-S lenses.

Some Sample Shots

I haven’t taken as many shots with the R50 as I would have liked to before posting a review, but with DPReview’s upcoming closure I decided to go ahead and post this. First some random shots with a variety of lenses:

Among my first shots, taken with the RF 24-240mm
Among my first shots, taken with the RF 24-240mm

With the Canon EF-S 10-22mm
With the Canon EF-S 10-22mm

With the RF-S 55-210mm, which, while not a bright lens, can still provide nice bokeh
With the RF-S 55-210mm, which, while not a bright lens, can still provide nice bokeh

RF-S 18-45, at f/22 and 1/3 second exposure, handheld
RF-S 18-45, at f/22 and 1/3 second exposure, handheld

RF-S 55-210mm at 201mm, f7.1
RF-S 55-210mm at 201mm, f7.1

Same scene with the RF 24-240 at 240mm, f/6.3
Same scene with the RF 24-240 at 240mm, f/6.3

RF-S 18-150mm, which I am finding to be a versatile choice for the R50
RF-S 18-150mm, which I am finding to be a versatile choice for the R50

This wide angle shot with the RF-S 18-150mm would have been a good one to shoot with the Advanced A+ mode, to see if it did a better job with the sky
This wide angle shot with the RF-S 18-150mm would have been a good one to shoot with the Advanced A+ mode, to see if it did a better job with the sky

Also RF-S 18-150mm
Also RF-S 18-150mm

Cat who pushes the dynamic range capabilities
Cat who pushes the dynamic range capabilities

And Some "Studio" Shots :-)

I was also going to take a bunch of comparison shots of a fixed scene, but then my cat got curious. So I ended taking a few of the cat. You can’t compare the results directly, but I hope they’re useful anyway. The black fur adds to the challenge. The shots are at 35mm, except for the two M6II shots at 32mm; they are also all 1600 ISO except for the one with RF-S 18-45mm.

Included among these are shots with the TTArtisan RF-S 35mm f/1.4, an inexpensive manual focus lens. Sadly the nifty "focus guide" feature does not work with this lens, but focus peaking does. I used magnified view, which proved a challenge with a moving target.

The following shots are as-is, from Lightroom's default RAW conversion. No other processing, so you can evaluate the results for yourself.

TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 at f/2.8, manual focus (the EXIF data will be lacking)
TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 at f/2.8, manual focus (the EXIF data will be lacking)

TTArtisan 35mm at f/2, manual focus
TTArtisan 35mm at f/2, manual focus

This one is with the RF 28-70mm f/2, thankfully with auto-focus!
This one is with the RF 28-70mm f/2, thankfully with auto-focus!

The far less capable but much smaller RF-S 18-45 at 35mm. I bumped the ISO up to 6400 for this shot.
The far less capable but much smaller RF-S 18-45 at 35mm. I bumped the ISO up to 6400 for this shot.

For comparison purposes, I also included two with the M6II + EF-M 32mm, this one at f/2
For comparison purposes, I also included two with the M6II + EF-M 32mm, this one at f/2

And this one with M6II + EF-M 32mm at f/1.4. Note that f/1.4 isn't a great choice for cat photos since eyes in focus normally means much of the rest of the face isn't.
And this one with M6II + EF-M 32mm at f/1.4. Note that f/1.4 isn't a great choice for cat photos since eyes in focus normally means much of the rest of the face isn't.

And finally back to the TTArtisan at f/1.4 to compare with the EF-M 32mm. While manual focus makes this lens harder to use, even with good focus image quality from this lens at f/1.4 is nowhere near what you get with the EF-M 32mm at f/1.4.
And finally back to the TTArtisan at f/1.4 to compare with the EF-M 32mm. While manual focus makes this lens harder to use, even with good focus image quality from this lens at f/1.4 is nowhere near what you get with the EF-M 32mm at f/1.4.

At this point the cat got bored and left, so the session was over.
 
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I want to downgrade from FF to something with 10 bit video for not a lot of money. R50 ticks so many boxes, but the abysmal lens selection is a total deal breaker. No, I'm not going to pay $500 for a FF 24 1.8 when there are APS-C optimized primes on other systems for less money.
The RF 28mm/2.8 is excellent, classic standard focal length for Canon APS-C and not expensive (though not as cheap as the Z mount version).
Yet the Sigma RF-s 30mm f/1.4 was exactly the lens the crop market was waiting for.
Canon's MTF plot for the RF 16mm/2.8 makes it look as if it's optimised for APS-C, though it's 1½× the size and price of the E mount version. There again, I'm not going to pay £400 for any APS-C lens.
On your crop camera a full frame lens doesn't bring you a lot more than an aps-c lens, and finally Canon was so smart to allow for Sigma f/1.4 crop lenses costing less than 400 bucks.
 
I want to downgrade from FF to something with 10 bit video for not a lot of money. R50 ticks so many boxes, but the abysmal lens selection is a total deal breaker. No, I'm not going to pay $500 for a FF 24 1.8 when there are APS-C optimized primes on other systems for less money.
The RF 28mm/2.8 is excellent, classic standard focal length for Canon APS-C and not expensive (though not as cheap as the Z mount version). Canon's MTF plot for the RF 16mm/2.8 makes it look as if it's optimised for APS-C, though it's 1½× the size and price of the E mount version. There again, I'm not going to pay £400 for any APS-C lens.
F/2.8 is too slow for a prime IMO, especially APS-C. And there are 1.4 APS-C primes for less money! Canon needs to open up RF or start filling in the gaps. This is worse than EF-S
Apparently the lens selections for RF-s was so bad even Canon realized something had to be done. :-)

Crop users will sell the RF f/2.8 pancake and finally get f/1.4. Or sell the RF 24mm f/1.8 IS stm and get 2 f/1.4 lenses in return.
 
Ignoring all the comments about lenses and apertures, the R50 simply has too many limitations to accept for the saving of just 50g in weight (375g with card & battery) compared to an R10 (429g with card & battery). For a minimal increase in weight and size, the R10 is a far better package. The lack of sensor cleaning on the R50 is mystifying.
+1 The R10 really is a little gem. I have a co-worker who has one (so have been able to shoot with it) and thanks to DIGIC X it's an extremely capable little body. She has the 18-150 kit lens, but uses FF lenses for events and portraiture.
Get here the Sigma RF-s 30&56mm f/1.4 for those events and portraiture. :-)
 
If I buy R50 and then buy RF24/1.8 FF lens,

- will I have crop of some kind

- will the Focal length change, FoV

- will the len’s IS work on the R50 body
Yes, Yes, and Yes.

1.6x Crop, 38mm equiv, great in-lens stabilization!
Compared to what?? Compared to full frame: then R2 is right.



compared to other aps-c camera, then the answer is:

No, no and yes.

Compared to all other lenses there will not be any difference. 24mm on an aps-c camera body is exactly the same no matter what lens you put on it.

Lens A: 24mm (made for aps-c)

Lens B: 24mm (made for full frame)

These two lenses will look exactly the same when used with the same camera.
 
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I want to downgrade from FF to something with 10 bit video for not a lot of money. R50 ticks so many boxes, but the abysmal lens selection is a total deal breaker. No, I'm not going to pay $500 for a FF 24 1.8 when there are APS-C optimized primes on other systems for less money.
The RF 28mm/2.8 is excellent, classic standard focal length for Canon APS-C and not expensive (though not as cheap as the Z mount version). Canon's MTF plot for the RF 16mm/2.8 makes it look as if it's optimised for APS-C, though it's 1½× the size and price of the E mount version. There again, I'm not going to pay £400 for any APS-C lens.
F/2.8 is too slow for a prime IMO, especially APS-C. And there are 1.4 APS-C primes for less money! Canon needs to open up RF or start filling in the gaps. This is worse than EF-S
Apparently the lens selections for RF-s was so bad even Canon realized something had to be done. :-)

Crop users will sell the RF f/2.8 pancake and finally get f/1.4. Or sell the RF 24mm f/1.8 IS stm and get 2 f/1.4 lenses in return.
You'd be very lucky to manage that. The new price of the RF 24mm is less than twice the price of any of the f/1.4 lenses in E mount and they're not even going to be available in RF-S mount for a month or two, at a higher price than E mount if the Z mount premium is anything to go by.
--
Using f/8.0 or narrower on a 32Mp 1.6 crop sensor will cause noticeable softening due to diffraction. It's nice to have a light weight lens, but there's no free lunch.
 
I want to downgrade from FF to something with 10 bit video for not a lot of money. R50 ticks so many boxes, but the abysmal lens selection is a total deal breaker. No, I'm not going to pay $500 for a FF 24 1.8 when there are APS-C optimized primes on other systems for less money.
The RF 28mm/2.8 is excellent, classic standard focal length for Canon APS-C and not expensive (though not as cheap as the Z mount version). Canon's MTF plot for the RF 16mm/2.8 makes it look as if it's optimised for APS-C, though it's 1½× the size and price of the E mount version. There again, I'm not going to pay £400 for any APS-C lens.
F/2.8 is too slow for a prime IMO, especially APS-C. And there are 1.4 APS-C primes for less money! Canon needs to open up RF or start filling in the gaps. This is worse than EF-S
Apparently the lens selections for RF-s was so bad even Canon realized something had to be done. :-)

Crop users will sell the RF f/2.8 pancake and finally get f/1.4. Or sell the RF 24mm f/1.8 IS stm and get 2 f/1.4 lenses in return.
You'd be very lucky to manage that. The new price of the RF 24mm is less than twice the price of any of the f/1.4 lenses in E mount and they're not even going to be available in RF-S mount for a month or two, at a higher price than E mount if the Z mount premium is anything to go by.
O.k., granted. But folks thinking about the first prime will skip the RF 24mm f/1.8 IS stm.
 
I want to downgrade from FF to something with 10 bit video for not a lot of money. R50 ticks so many boxes, but the abysmal lens selection is a total deal breaker. No, I'm not going to pay $500 for a FF 24 1.8 when there are APS-C optimized primes on other systems for less money.
The RF 28mm/2.8 is excellent, classic standard focal length for Canon APS-C and not expensive (though not as cheap as the Z mount version).
Yet the Sigma RF-s 30mm f/1.4 was exactly the lens the crop market was waiting for.
Sigma’s announcement is fantastic. Four f/1.4 lenses: 16mm, 23mm, 30mm and 56mm! And 10-18, 18-50 f/2.8. All RF-S too.

A worthwhile addendum to this review.

Canon's MTF plot for the RF 16mm/2.8 makes it look as if it's optimised for APS-C, though it's 1½× the size and price of the E mount version. There again, I'm not going to pay £400 for any APS-C lens.
On your crop camera a full frame lens doesn't bring you a lot more than an aps-c lens, and finally Canon was so smart to allow for Sigma f/1.4 crop lenses costing less than 400 bucks.

--
Using f/8.0 or narrower on a 32Mp 1.6 crop sensor will cause noticeable softening due to diffraction. It's nice to have a light weight lens, but there's no free lunch.
 
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Canon-Nikon lens mount directions (and zoom on non-primes) have been opposite each other for eons! (I have a foot in both world, DSLR, though Canon-first, and am thinking of the R50 to get a foot into the mirrorless world. I already have the 100-400 lens.
 
Canon-Nikon lens mount directions (and zoom on non-primes) have been opposite each other for eons! (I have a foot in both world, DSLR, though Canon-first, and am thinking of the R50 to get a foot into the mirrorless world. I already have the 100-400 lens.
The R50 has a lot going for it, being the entry-level DIGIC-X body (DIGIC-X is THE must-have feature IMHO). It does have some ergo limitations tho, such as the BBAF button placement, and no "C" modes, etc etc. Consider the R10 if you'd like that kind of utility.

I don't know where you're located but if you're in the US, Canon Refurb has a screaming deal right now on the R50 kit...

https://www.usa.canon.com/shop/p/re...-is-stm-lens-kit?color=Black&type=Refurbished

I've been seriously asking myself whether or not I could live with the R50's BBAF ( * ) button placement. I'd like a smaller alternative to my FF bodies (mainly for shooting macros). The R7 previously played this role for me, but was too close in size to my bigger bodies so I sold it.

Good luck with your own decisions!

R2
 
I've been seriously asking myself whether or not I could live with the R50's BBAF ( * ) button placement.
I never had a problem with the M50.

Maybe it's just a matter of spending some time to get used to it.
I'd like a smaller alternative to my FF bodies (mainly for shooting macros). The R7 previously played this role for me, but was too close in size to my bigger bodies so I sold it.

Good luck with your own decisions!

R2
 
I've been seriously asking myself whether or not I could live with the R50's BBAF ( * ) button placement.
I never had a problem with the M50.

Maybe it's just a matter of spending some time to get used to it.
That was how the buttons were set up on my M5 and M6 too, and also the ergonomic mess that is my Sony RX100. It's just not a good place for a BBAF button that is used 100% of the time. I much prefer the location of the AF-On button on the rest of my bodies. You can maintain a much better grip.

R2
 
I've been seriously asking myself whether or not I could live with the R50's BBAF ( * ) button placement.
I never had a problem with the M50.

Maybe it's just a matter of spending some time to get used to it.
That was how the buttons were set up on my M5 and M6 too, and also the ergonomic mess that is my Sony RX100. It's just not a good place for a BBAF button that is used 100% of the time. I much prefer the location of the AF-On button on the rest of my bodies. You can maintain a much better grip.

R2
You should adapt the 50-100mm f/1.8 Art so you remember you should use 2 hands. Using 2 hands it's not a problem anyway.
 
I've been seriously asking myself whether or not I could live with the R50's BBAF ( * ) button placement.
I never had a problem with the M50.

Maybe it's just a matter of spending some time to get used to it.
That was how the buttons were set up on my M5 and M6 too, and also the ergonomic mess that is my Sony RX100. It's just not a good place for a BBAF button that is used 100% of the time. I much prefer the location of the AF-On button on the rest of my bodies. You can maintain a much better grip.

R2
You should adapt the 50-100mm f/1.8 Art so you remember you should use 2 hands. Using 2 hands it's not a problem anyway.
??? You make assumptions. I use 2 hands 100% of the time!

Maintaining the best possible grip is especially important with these smaller bodies. I was thrilled when the M6ii moved the BBAF button over to the "ideal" location. Much lower chance of inducing camera shake.

R2
 
I've been seriously asking myself whether or not I could live with the R50's BBAF ( * ) button placement.
I never had a problem with the M50.

Maybe it's just a matter of spending some time to get used to it.
That was how the buttons were set up on my M5 and M6 too, and also the ergonomic mess that is my Sony RX100. It's just not a good place for a BBAF button that is used 100% of the time. I much prefer the location of the AF-On button on the rest of my bodies. You can maintain a much better grip.

R2
You should adapt the 50-100mm f/1.8 Art so you remember you should use 2 hands. Using 2 hands it's not a problem anyway.
??? You make assumptions.
I'm sorry.
I use 2 hands 100% of the time!
O.k.
Maintaining the best possible grip is especially important with these smaller bodies. I was thrilled when the M6ii moved the BBAF button over to the "ideal" location. Much lower chance of inducing camera shake.

R2
Could be the reason I've sold the sigma ef-m 56mm f/1.4 and used the EF 50mm f/1.4 Art in stead. A bigger lens makes your combo bigger which helps to reduce shake.

You want light weight lenses of course. The A7CII has it's BBAF button located very nicely, and there's IBIS to reduce shake. If you want to shoot small primes the lens selection is a candy store.
 
I've been seriously asking myself whether or not I could live with the R50's BBAF ( * ) button placement.
I never had a problem with the M50.

Maybe it's just a matter of spending some time to get used to it.
That was how the buttons were set up on my M5 and M6 too, and also the ergonomic mess that is my Sony RX100. It's just not a good place for a BBAF button that is used 100% of the time. I much prefer the location of the AF-On button on the rest of my bodies. You can maintain a much better grip.

R2
You should adapt the 50-100mm f/1.8 Art so you remember you should use 2 hands. Using 2 hands it's not a problem anyway.
??? You make assumptions.
I'm sorry.
I use 2 hands 100% of the time!
O.k.
Maintaining the best possible grip is especially important with these smaller bodies. I was thrilled when the M6ii moved the BBAF button over to the "ideal" location. Much lower chance of inducing camera shake.

R2
Could be the reason I've sold the sigma ef-m 56mm f/1.4 and used the EF 50mm f/1.4 Art in stead. A bigger lens makes your combo bigger which helps to reduce shake.
Indeed! Inertia is our friend! :-)
You want light weight lenses of course. The A7CII has it's BBAF button located very nicely, and there's IBIS to reduce shake. If you want to shoot small primes the lens selection is a candy store.
But it doesn't have my Tilt Screen! Boo Hoo.

R2
 
I've been seriously asking myself whether or not I could live with the R50's BBAF ( * ) button placement.
I never had a problem with the M50.

Maybe it's just a matter of spending some time to get used to it.
That was how the buttons were set up on my M5 and M6 too, and also the ergonomic mess that is my Sony RX100. It's just not a good place for a BBAF button that is used 100% of the time. I much prefer the location of the AF-On button on the rest of my bodies. You can maintain a much better grip.

R2
You should adapt the 50-100mm f/1.8 Art so you remember you should use 2 hands. Using 2 hands it's not a problem anyway.
??? You make assumptions.
I'm sorry.
I use 2 hands 100% of the time!
O.k.
Maintaining the best possible grip is especially important with these smaller bodies. I was thrilled when the M6ii moved the BBAF button over to the "ideal" location. Much lower chance of inducing camera shake.

R2
Could be the reason I've sold the sigma ef-m 56mm f/1.4 and used the EF 50mm f/1.4 Art in stead. A bigger lens makes your combo bigger which helps to reduce shake.
Indeed! Inertia is our friend! :-)
You want light weight lenses of course. The A7CII has it's BBAF button located very nicely, and there's IBIS to reduce shake. If you want to shoot small primes the lens selection is a candy store.
But it doesn't have my Tilt Screen! Boo Hoo.
Sure, but that's true for RF crop cameras as well.... With the A7CII you get at least a compact body, good BBAF button location and... IBIS.

With a huge collection of RF glass I understand Canon is more attractive, however, I still wouldn't go crop, as the R7 isn't small enough to justify crop IQ. I would go R8. No stabilization at 50mm, but the stm f/2.8 zooms and most stm primes have ILIS. For 16mm you might prefer the 16-28mm IS stm anyway, the 24mm f/1.8 stm is more attractive than the pancake for the wider perspective alone, and the 35&85mm stm lenses are stabilized as well.

R8, 16-28mm f/2.8 stm, 24mm f/1.8 stm, 50mm f/1.4 VCM, 85mm f/2.0 IS stm, and either the 28-70mm f/2.8 stm or a second R8. I think you can do a lot with that stuff.
 
But it doesn't have my Tilt Screen! Boo Hoo.
Sure, but that's true for RF crop cameras as well.... With the A7CII you get at least a compact body, good BBAF button location and... IBIS.
Great features one and all!
With a huge collection of RF glass I understand Canon is more attractive, however, I still wouldn't go crop, as the R7 isn't small enough to justify crop IQ. I would go R8.
Agree 100%.
No stabilization at 50mm
Crazy, isn't it?!
but the stm f/2.8 zooms and most stm primes have ILIS. For 16mm you might prefer the 16-28mm IS stm anyway, the 24mm f/1.8 stm is more attractive than the pancake for the wider perspective alone, and the 35&85mm stm lenses are stabilized as well.
Yeah, I suspect that my whole kit will go topsy turvy after I retire.

I'm just so still in love with the Canon TRIUMVERATE though! :-D
R8, 16-28mm f/2.8 stm, 24mm f/1.8 stm, 50mm f/1.4 VCM, 85mm f/2.0 IS stm, and either the 28-70mm f/2.8 stm or a second R8. I think you can do a lot with that stuff.
I think I'll keep my FF event kit for now (and of course my R5 + RF 100-500 + 1.4x for birding/wildlife), but then add an entire lightweight kit (likely based on the R8) that will replace my M6ii and dozen EF-M lenses.

Thanks for all the suggestions!

R2
 

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