R5... Shouldn't every one of these be tack sharp ?

What no one seems to get is that yes, with high resolutions one should use much higher if not twice or three times the shutter speed as one would use for any focal length as in the days of film. But we also have cameras and lenses that offer 5-8 stops of stabilisation, so effectively one should be safely using much lower speeds for even higher resolutions. So technique does not really come into it, as stabilisation takes over.You can be shaky as you like, but stabilisation will come to your rescue.Perhaps? So where is the technique of developing a steady hand? We did that 50 years ago.

So there could be focussing technique, but now the camera is supposed to take care of that. Does anyone try to manually focus on the eye of a flying bird or even a bird on a perch? Strangely I do, at least try to, a almost redundant vestige of my 50 year old technique.

Why shutter speed matters is because it is needed to mitigate subject movement and again technique cannot really matter as one does not have control of subject movement. At best one can do is to judge when the subject is most still, or spray till a still moment occurs. No technique involved, unless one gets to know a subject very well. Try that with a flower blowing in the wind. There will always be a moment when it is still. Something also learnt 50 years ago, knowledge and timing.

Now there could be a technique, and there always was, when it comes to timing when to press the shutter. This something I always try to do, as I only do single frames. Again something I learnt 50 years ago.How many people actually now do that nowadays, especially as the the technique is to just press the button, take 20 or 30 frames a second and hope that some are good. Where is the technique in that?

The cameras today are most totally automated. I often wonder why they do not start shooting as a soon a a 'correct' focus is obtained. Oh yes of course they do, as some OM cameras do just that and start when the camera is raised. Phone cameras do as well. Still cameras are now movie cameras. Where is the much vaunted technique?

There in now supposed to be a technique in guessing and guessing it is, what AF settings to use. Those settings have been set in optimum and repeatable conditions, something that does not occur in real life.

In the days before automated exposure, one learned a technique of balancing ASA (ISO) shutter speed and aperture, manually. I still use it. How many now actually do, as, as far as I can see from posts most people use auto ISO, and or auto shutter and aperture. The only technique is in using exp comp and that often for contradicting reasons.

There is no modern technique and yet any one who complains, gets the 'improve' your technique nonsense.It is nonsense and actually INSULTING.
 
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The question was why are not all the photos tack sharp.

the answers here are trying to explain why that could be.

you are free to take it in and/or feel insulted.

But that was not the intention.

It was simply the most rational explanation.
 
The problem is I have already explained that they are no help at all.

It is a mantra resorted to..There is no modern technique that one can apply as almost everything is automated.

Auto exposure

Auto focus

Auto timing.

Auto stability

Auto Judgement.
 
Well I doubt that the environment plays much part in a subject distance of 10cm, when doing macro and using AF. My own movement plays the largest part, so I try to use AF. The problem is that I can see that even though there is 'lock'. there is not. It could be the contrast offered by the subject is not sufficient, a problem with the R5.

I use firrmware 1.4, having reverted from 1.5. I am wary of the latest!
Filter on the lens? Vertical versus horizontal detail on a non-cross type focus point? JPEG settings out of camera? Shot priority versus focus priority?

Tough to figure because there are so many things that can be set up wrong. After dealing with the T5i and a poor prime with no setting that could get great focus, I am very happy with the R camera's great on sensor focus. The R5 could only be spectacular with on sensor focus and it's powerful computer processor running the focus.
Apologies, no filter, the R5 does have some priority in one direction, apparently.

It really sometimes does not focus unless manually nudged.

Only shoot RAW, the most conservative settings, focus priority.

Also if I have to crop a lot, I don't bother and I rarely go below 1/640 or above ISO 800 for my 100-400 MK2 zoom.

It is more accurate in single shot no servo,but the whole point of the CPU is to be able to control AF and servo focus, reliably and accurately.

Some users get that and others do not, it seems

How about wide production variability? That would also account for user problems, beyond technique and settings, as well as not being a problem for every owner.

It is all a matter of production tolerances, as in any manufacturing process.

The assumption seems to be that the cameras are 100% perfect and that the users are 100% stupid.
No assumptions. Just a crowd/mob troubleshooting a problem. Racking and stacking possible solutions according to how common their issue would be. That it's the camera is of course a possible issue.

As an aside, I thought my T5i with it's focus sensor in the viewfinder area was fooled by the low contrast EF 50 f1.4 I was using. Seldom in focus unless light was perfect. Then the EOS R railed sharp shot after sharp shot with the same EF 50 f1.4. I'm not sure if low contrast can fool on sensor AF (RF systems) as much.
 
It is the explanation I have had many times on this forum for when my camera will not focus. It is in Auto focus, I press the focus button , the lens is controlled by the camera Auto Focus to lock on to the area I wish to focus on. But it does not, not until I nudge it manually.
 
The obvious problem to me s is lack of samples, which might make any explanation easier to figure out. Id be turning IS off if its on a tripod etc if thats one of my suspicions.

Edit: Mike the only other possibility for having to nudge is being close to the limit of the AF range, I can usually get a bit more manually. Otherwise I agree it sounds wrong. The latest firmware is a lot better than the earlier 1.5 versions if you're feeling brave.
 
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Well it seems that the R5 can detect when on a tripod and adjust.So I have read.

Yes the OP would help by providing some examples.

If I remember it took them quite a lot of time and posts on this forum, before buying the R5, then had a period of everything being amazing and has slowly come down and now possibly distrusts the camera. I could be wrong, I hope I am.
 
Well it seems that the R5 can detect when on a tripod and adjust.So I have read.

Yes the OP would help by providing some examples.

If I remember it took them quite a lot of time and posts on this forum, before buying the R5, then had a period of everything being amazing and has slowly come down and now possibly distrusts the camera. I could be wrong, I hope I am.
Its supposed to yes, but if the camera is suspected then trying to isolate what it is might help.
 
What no one seems to get is that yes, with high resolutions one should use much higher if not twice or three times the shutter speed as one would use for any focal length as in the days of film. But we also have cameras and lenses that offer 5-8 stops of stabilisation, so effectively one should be safely using much lower speeds for even higher resolutions. So technique does not really come into it, as stabilisation takes over.You can be shaky as you like, but stabilisation will come to your rescue.Perhaps? So where is the technique of developing a steady hand? We did that 50 years ago.
Says you but you have been complaining about the R5 for a year now? Some top notch photogs at Fred Miranda did not increase their shutter speeds.
  • When you move to a higher MP sensor your photos will be more susceptible to motion blur. No, this is not the case at all. If you make otherwise identical photographs with a low MP full frame (or other format) digital camera and a higher MP camera using the same format, prints of the same size from both sources will have exactly the same amount of motion blur. (Technically, the higher MP camera will provide a more accurate image of the blur, but that doesn’t change how much blur there is.) In both cases the blur covers the same percentage of frame width. And, if you are tempted to check 100% magnification crops to prove me wrong, don’t forget what we saw above about looking more closely at a smaller area with the higher MP example. (The good news for the higher MP sensor is that when there is less motion blur it has the potential to produce an even higher resolution image of the subject.)
Source.

So there could be focussing technique, but now the camera is supposed to take care of that. Does anyone try to manually focus on the eye of a flying bird or even a bird on a perch? Strangely I do, at least try to, a almost redundant vestige of my 50 year old technique.

Why shutter speed matters is because it is needed to mitigate subject movement and again technique cannot really matter as one does not have control of subject movement. At best one can do is to judge when the subject is most still, or spray till a still moment occurs. No technique involved, unless one gets to know a subject very well. Try that with a flower blowing in the wind. There will always be a moment when it is still. Something also learnt 50 years ago, knowledge and timing.

Now there could be a technique, and there always was, when it comes to timing when to press the shutter. This something I always try to do, as I only do single frames. Again something I learnt 50 years ago.How many people actually now do that nowadays, especially as the the technique is to just press the button, take 20 or 30 frames a second and hope that some are good. Where is the technique in that?

The cameras today are most totally automated. I often wonder why they do not start shooting as a soon a a 'correct' focus is obtained. Oh yes of course they do, as some OM cameras do just that and start when the camera is raised. Phone cameras do as well. Still cameras are now movie cameras. Where is the much vaunted technique?

There in now supposed to be a technique in guessing and guessing it is, what AF settings to use. Those settings have been set in optimum and repeatable conditions, something that does not occur in real life.

In the days before automated exposure, one learned a technique of balancing ASA (ISO) shutter speed and aperture, manually. I still use it. How many now actually do, as, as far as I can see from posts most people use auto ISO, and or auto shutter and aperture. The only technique is in using exp comp and that often for contradicting reasons.

There is no modern technique and yet any one who complains, gets the 'improve' your technique nonsense.It is nonsense and actually INSULTING.
Well wasn't replying to you but if you feel insulted - oh well.
 
Apart from the last bit I am not at all sure what you were trying to say and to whom
 
Apart from the last bit I am not at all sure what you were trying to say and to whom
Thought yon were replying to me. Sorry about that
 
Probably and highly likely user/rookie error. You need to tell us every variable and and show us examples. I have not seen this behavior. Make sure you are on the latest firmware as well. Never heard of someone locking focus once on an animal and turning the focus off, and assuming from then on out all future shots will be tack sharp. Kind of ridiculous to think that, this is user error, a novice mistake. The animal is not a statue, even if you can't see movement, there could be enough to throw off the focus.
 
It has just occurred to me what the problem might be.

The OP says they use a remote shutter. Well it is possible that it refocusses the lens every time the remote is used, as might happen by using the shutter button physically . Does the OP use BBF, which decouples focussing from using the shutter?

This what they say

"But lets look at something a lot more controlled. Lets say I have an Owl perched 30 feet in front of me. I have my camera on a tripod, and I'm using a remote shutter trigger. I first use my Auto Eye Focus, and it puts the tiny box right exactly on the Owls "big, clear eye". I take my hands off of the camera, then start hitting my remote shutter release..."
 
Locked off focussing is very common in the film and TV industry.

If nothing on the set is changed, then nor is focus. At 30 ft and at the DOF at the focal length stated, there should not be a focus change, unless the remote shutter is doing it every time it fires.If BBF is used then that possibility is removed
 
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Good catch, Mike! This seems to be a major factor here.

Unless the owl is a statue securely fastened to a rigid, stone tree in a wind-free, indoor location, and with no trucks rumbling by to cause any type of vibration...

Also: In my experience, the combination of IBIS and lens IS generally works great, but I've learned to always turn off IBIS/IS on a tripod. With a remote release, I imagine the IBIS/IS gears up and sometimes an image is captured just before things can settle down properly.

I hope you are getting out more enjoying photography!
 
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I am not sure about IBIS/IS, as on a R5, it stays on all the time, after some input and only turns off after about 12 secs, with no activity So it would always be on in this scenario. The DOF at 30ft and 840mm at say f9 ( x1.4 on a 100-500) is about 10cm, but I doubt that the owl is rocking back and forth 10cm, or even turning side to side, that much. Owls do not move that much as they don't want to give themselves away. if they are on the hunt.

Personally I think that unless the OP uses BBF so that AF can be left alone, any shutter activity might do a refocus, a bit like in EOS utility, possibly giving the variable results

To your last question, well sort of.

I have taken about 3500 images, in six months, but am not really inspired. Am now doing, well at least re learning Macro, but real sharpness eludes me.

I did buy a EF 100-400mk2 and that is a bit more sharp than the old lens, but I think the results are still soft. AF is fast, but it also goes into focus limbo unless nudged several times or manually.

I was going to get a loan and or take the camera back to Canon for rechecking, but came to the conclusion that the R5 is what it is and I have to get on with it.

Battery use is still not good, but I bought some Hahnel batteries and now for my kind of photography i get about 120 frames as opposed to 90 with Canon batteries They are LPE6NH, so can be charged with the battery in the camera and very much cheaper



I am quite pleased with this MPE65 at !:1

Had to use much too much sharpening

.

All the best

MDE
 

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I haven’t tried doing any wildlife photography using a remote to trigger the shutter, but have definitely experienced some shots..maybe 6 or 7 out of 10 being soft when the eye seemed to be locked on. So definitely not just you and also it doesn’t seem to consistently happen, but a bit frustrating when it does. This is with the R5.
 
I haven’t tried doing any wildlife photography using a remote to trigger the shutter, but have definitely experienced some shots..maybe 6 or 7 out of 10 being soft when the eye seemed to be locked on. So definitely not just you and also it doesn’t seem to consistently happen, but a bit frustrating when it does. This is with the R5.
Please elaborate what was the scene like? Was the wildlife moving, (side to side, coming at you or away from you)? What was your AF mode, shutter speed and Focal Length. Single shot or High Speed continous? On a tripod? IBIS on or off? RF lens or third party?

You and the OP just need more training. Shoot a static test scene and come back with the results, (I bet your focus does not change).

I highly recommend a good wildlife photography book or a course by a competent instructor. (Especially the OP, shooting wildlife by setting focus once and then expecting all future shots to be in focus, this would be hard enough with a human model trying to stay still). I was recommending a wildlife photography book but you guys possibly should just start with a general photography book.
 
This really only happens in scenarios with very small, quick moving birds. On the ground going side to side within a 8 foot radius or so. Using a BBF setup with animal eye AF, high speed continuous, shutter speed minimum 1/500s, iso 400+, f5.6, 600mm.
 
Canon has my R5 for the fourth time since December right now. It does not focus where the box inside the camera says it is. It is almost always in front of or behind the actual focus point. Is this what you are experiencing? They just keep sending it back and saying it's fixed. And since I can't talk to a tech, all I can do is keep sending it back. I have requested a new camera and so far they have refused. It's under warranty and they just keep saying there's nothing wrong with it.
 

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