R5 LCD display is always on Live View

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resajdak

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Just got the R5 yesterday and I'm happy with everything except the rear LCD is always on Live View.

I want it act act like my 5D4 where the LCD is off while the camera is on and after I take a shot the photo appears on the LCD for a few seconds for review and then the LCD goes off.

Any idea how to change this?
 
That's what I do. I find it every bit as good and convenient as using the LCD. But once use to a certain practice, it's often undesirable to make a change.
 
Oh dear, I forgot the types on dpreview!! Why go on the attack?

I simply don't want my screen on (or to come on when the camera moves close to my body and thinks it's next to my eye). To give you one reason (and there are others), when I'm shooting a theatre production (or any delicate situation) I don't want any light coming from the back of my camera when I don't want it to! OK, I can hear you say well turn the screen around. My answer to that is that when I do gimp at the image I want to do it fast. That alone was enough to justify upgrading to the R5 for me.
i already said you can set a hotkey to sleep the LCD. how is that not enough? why would you get an R5 just for that????
 
Oh dear, I forgot the types on dpreview!! Why go on the attack?

I simply don't want my screen on (or to come on when the camera moves close to my body and thinks it's next to my eye). To give you one reason (and there are others), when I'm shooting a theatre production (or any delicate situation) I don't want any light coming from the back of my camera when I don't want it to! OK, I can hear you say well turn the screen around. My answer to that is that when I do gimp at the image I want to do it fast. That alone was enough to justify upgrading to the R5 for me.
Surely the quickest way to chimp at your last image is through the viewfinder, just press the review button without taking the camera away from your face.
Maybe but that does take some real getting used to. Sometimes I do it when I want to be really inconspicuous but it makes me feel a bit blind to what else is going on and then a little disorientated when I go back to live view because the action/subject generally has changed position by then so I have to lower the camera and find it/them and re-orientate. (I shoot with my left eye so it's hard to use the right eye to keep an eye on the action at the same time). When chimping though I can be half aware of what's going on at the same time as looking at the picture and ready to stop chimping if something is happening and I know exactly where it's happening.
 
Oh dear, I forgot the types on dpreview!! Why go on the attack?

I simply don't want my screen on (or to come on when the camera moves close to my body and thinks it's next to my eye). To give you one reason (and there are others), when I'm shooting a theatre production (or any delicate situation) I don't want any light coming from the back of my camera when I don't want it to! OK, I can hear you say well turn the screen around. My answer to that is that when I do gimp at the image I want to do it fast. That alone was enough to justify upgrading to the R5 for me.
i already said you can set a hotkey to sleep the LCD. how is that not enough? why would you get an R5 just for that????
As I remember, the LCD would then come back on when the sensor next to your EVF passes any part of your body (i.e when just holding the camera next to you) thinking the camera is next to your eye - correct me if I'm wrong or if this has changed with a firmware update.

OK, seeing as the fact that I upgraded to an R5 from an R6 stating the lack of ability to turn off the back screen as 'ONE' of the justifications in my original post (the one you originally accused me of being a troll for) seems to be really painful for you I'll try explaining the other reasons - in no particular order: The R6 does not have the tinny screw socket to attach the tether cable lock gadget that comes with the R5 - I shoot tethered quite a bit and when hiring an R5, before I purchased the R6, I really liked this gadget and wrongly assumed it would be available on the R6. I missed the screen on top of the R5 to view my camera settings by just glancing down rather than having to put the camera to my eye or look at the back of the screen. Although I believe 20 Megapixels is more than sufficient in practice for most of my clients, I shoot the occasional higher budget advertising job and for these, only after purchasing the R6, I felt under pixeled. Also for these, generally shooting in front of art directors I felt the R6 didn't look the part - sort of superficial but can have a real impact on the impression you make. I shoot the occasional interiors job and for these the extra pixels are actually really useful to allow a bit of cropping for perspective corrections. So as i said in my original post, the lack of ability to turn off the back screen was ONE of the reasons to justify the upgrade and these are the others (OK, on the above post I said the screen thing alone was enough but you went straight on the attack saying I was 'hard trolling' after I said it was 'one' reason. Yup, I've dragged this out but want you to now ask yourself was it really necessary to make such an accusation and maybe next time think twice and contribute to making the forums of Dpreview better rather than worse.
 
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You can always review in viewfinder.
 
As I remember, the LCD would then come back on when the sensor next to your EVF passes any part of your body (i.e when just holding the camera next to you) thinking the camera is next to your eye - correct me if I'm wrong or if this has changed with a firmware update.
ok so this is true. however what you can do instead is just set your hotkey to "toggle vf and screen" then set your display to only viewfinder. so now it'll never activate from the sensor and it'll stay in the viewfinder. when you want to view an image on the screen, just press the play button as usual and then hit your hotkey. then press the hotkey again to go back to the viewfinder when you want to shoot again. it's very slightly less convenient but overall it gets the job done. i still don't understand why you can't just lower your lcd brightness and leave settings on with the black background.
The R6 does not have the tinny screw socket to attach the tether cable lock gadget that comes with the R5 - I shoot tethered quite a bit and when hiring an R5, before I purchased the R6, I really liked this gadget and wrongly assumed it would be available on the R6.
why use anything with a cable when you can just use your phone or a remote via bluetooth or wifi?
I missed the screen on top of the R5 to view my camera settings by just glancing down rather than having to put the camera to my eye or look at the back of the screen.
you wouldn't be able to see the top lcd without using the light. why is that light ok but the back of your lcd in black with the brightness turned down not ok?
Although I believe 20 Megapixels is more than sufficient in practice for most of my clients, I shoot the occasional higher budget advertising job and for these, only after purchasing the R6, I felt under pixeled.
how? what does feel under pixeled mean? what are you delivering to the client where they need more than 20mp?
Also for these, generally shooting in front of art directors I felt the R6 didn't look the part - sort of superficial but can have a real impact on the impression you make. I shoot the occasional interiors job and for these the extra pixels are actually really useful to allow a bit of cropping for perspective corrections.
funny how no one with an r3 (only 24mp) or a 1dx mkiii (same sensor) has these problems. the idea that if you have an R6 with L glass, people are thinking you're not up to par is all in your head. it is not reality. perspective corrections you can still make. also you can use super resolution if you need a little bit more resolution. honestly i just don't buy anyone needing more than 20mp unless you need larger prints that also require close up detail. what is the final resolution the client is actually using it in? are they even using over 4k? because 20mp to 7mp (4k) or 20mp to 2mp (1080p) is still plenty good of a downscale.
So as i said in my original post, the lack of ability to turn off the back screen was ONE of the reasons to justify the upgrade and these are the others (OK, on the above post I said the screen thing alone was enough but you went straight on the attack saying I was 'hard trolling' after I said it was 'one' reason. Yup, I've dragged this out but want you to now ask yourself was it really necessary to make such an accusation and maybe next time think twice and contribute to making the forums of Dpreview better rather than worse.
when you first read your original post, it did honestly seem pretty troll. overall it's still pretty poor reasoning though and it just sounds like someone who is unwilling to adapt. seems like all you need to do is get out of liveview and turn down your brightness. at worst, set the hotkey to toggle between vf and lcd. if you need a little extra resolution, just use super resolution or a similar upscaler. shouldn't matter at all unless you're specifically doing a project that requires delivering to your client full resolution files or if you need large prints that also need to look detailed close up. other than that, these things you think are problems are mostly just in your head.
 
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Thanks for confirming - my friend lent me his R5 because he's thinking of selling it and I'm tempted for that feature alone. What game are Canon playing not putting that feature on the R6.

Also, the R6 also doesn't have the ability to use the cable stabiliser thing - the threaded hole is not there on the R6 to mount it. I hired an R5 a while ago for a job that I need to tether and it worked perfectly - disappointed that the R6 can't use it.
Unfortunately, that's the name of the game, whatever brand.

No camera has all the features we want as individuals.

Even if you pay top dollar, you wont get it ALL.

Same with cars, computers or any other commodity.

That's life. It is what it is.

Enjoy what you have and make the most of it.

Take beautiful photos and be a better photographer with what you have. 😊
Ahh, I'm enlightened - I guess you are having a bit of time off from taking beautiful photos browsing dpreview forums (aka 'all about gear' forums) !!!!
Whatevs.
 
As I remember, the LCD would then come back on when the sensor next to your EVF passes any part of your body (i.e when just holding the camera next to you) thinking the camera is next to your eye - correct me if I'm wrong or if this has changed with a firmware update.
ok so this is true. however what you can do instead is just set your hotkey to "toggle vf and screen" then set your display to only viewfinder. so now it'll never activate from the sensor and it'll stay in the viewfinder. when you want to view an image on the screen, just press the play button as usual and then hit your hotkey. then press the hotkey again to go back to the viewfinder when you want to shoot again. it's very slightly less convenient but overall it gets the job done. i still don't understand why you can't just lower your lcd brightness and leave settings on with the black background.
Maybe one could get used to the method you described and I have to admit that when I owned the R6 I didn't set up hotkeys so you might be right on this one. However, I still don't understand why Canon didn't just give the same options as the R5 so you wouldn't have to mess around like this.
The R6 does not have the tinny screw socket to attach the tether cable lock gadget that comes with the R5 - I shoot tethered quite a bit and when hiring an R5, before I purchased the R6, I really liked this gadget and wrongly assumed it would be available on the R6.
why use anything with a cable when you can just use your phone or a remote via bluetooth or wifi?
Using bluetooth or wifi has it's uses (like quickly transmitting an image to your phone for social) but not on a professional studio based shoot with clients and art directors fixated on the screen looking at images as they are being shot - I've found it's not reliable or quick enough.
I missed the screen on top of the R5 to view my camera settings by just glancing down rather than having to put the camera to my eye or look at the back of the screen.
you wouldn't be able to see the top lcd without using the light. why is that light ok but the back of your lcd in black with the brightness turned down not ok?
In a room with normal light (which is 95% of my shooting) I can see the top of screen perfectly without using the light. When shooting in a theatre or such like I don't use it!!
Although I believe 20 Megapixels is more than sufficient in practice for most of my clients, I shoot the occasional higher budget advertising job and for these, only after purchasing the R6, I felt under pixeled.
how? what does feel under pixeled mean? what are you delivering to the client where they need more than 20mp?
On shoots when I need more pixels either billboard advertising or internals - yup, you know what, 20MP probably would still be fine but a common question from the designers and art directors on these shoots is about file sizes being delivered and it's good to be able to say very large if you need them.
Also for these, generally shooting in front of art directors I felt the R6 didn't look the part - sort of superficial but can have a real impact on the impression you make. I shoot the occasional interiors job and for these the extra pixels are actually really useful to allow a bit of cropping for perspective corrections.
funny how no one with an r3 (only 24mp) or a 1dx mkiii (same sensor) has these problems. the idea that if you have an R6 with L glass, people are thinking you're not up to par is all in your head. it is not reality. perspective corrections you can still make. also you can use super resolution if you need a little bit more resolution. honestly i just don't buy anyone needing more than 20mp unless you need larger prints that also require close up detail. what is the final resolution the client is actually using it in? are they even using over 4k? because 20mp to 7mp (4k) or 20mp to 2mp (1080p) is still plenty good of a downscale.
The R3 and 1dx MKiii are more suited to press, sports, PR and light commercial (portraits etc) work. My work is primarily PR and light commercial so yup, as I said 20mp is fine for most of my clients. But as also mentioned, a do a few advertising jobs which is a bit of a different world - these clients generally work with photographers that use Phase One and such cameras (I'm lucky to be in with one particular advertising agency that like me and recommend me so I get the odd job from them). You know what, I don't really know how big they really need the images to be but when the total cost of the shoot is massive (I would guess can easily between 20 to 50K) the bigger the file size and the more expensive the camera the better. The last shoot like this I was on, I came back from the bathroom to see the one of the film guys (they were shooting the TV advert on the same day) with the client representative looking at my camera talking about it. Probably just general conversation of what current DSLRs can do but I'm sure glad it was an R5 and not an R6. Clearly some of this is in my head but it's about confidence and confidence in front of clients is important and over a career equates to money. Anyone that doesn't get the importance of this sort of thing is naive.

Regarding internals, resolution is really important and you can easily lose 30% or so from a perspective crop so the more pixels the better.
So as i said in my original post, the lack of ability to turn off the back screen was ONE of the reasons to justify the upgrade and these are the others (OK, on the above post I said the screen thing alone was enough but you went straight on the attack saying I was 'hard trolling' after I said it was 'one' reason. Yup, I've dragged this out but want you to now ask yourself was it really necessary to make such an accusation and maybe next time think twice and contribute to making the forums of Dpreview better rather than worse.
when you first read your original post, it did honestly seem pretty troll. overall it's still pretty poor reasoning though and it just sounds like someone who is unwilling to adapt. seems like all you need to do is get out of liveview and turn down your brightness. at worst, set the hotkey to toggle between vf and lcd. if you need a little extra resolution, just use super resolution or a similar upscaler. shouldn't matter at all unless you're specifically doing a project that requires delivering to your client full resolution files or if you need large prints that also need to look detailed close up. other than that, these things you think are problems are mostly just in your head.
I rarely post on forums but sometimes if I'm stuck on something (like thinking I might be missing something with the R6 not being able to turn off the back screen) I look to forums and comment and question casually with no intent. Invariably there's always someone that these comments seem to annoy for some reason and they quickly either become abusive (calling me a troll) or condescending or such like - in my opinion un-called for - and it makes for a hostile and unpleasant environment. Everyone uses their equipment in different environments with different pressures so will express ideas and thoughts that are probably not inline with yours but this is not trolling!

I'm tired now of this conversation so will not be responding anymore - enjoy your R6 it's a fantastic camera!
 
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Not sure if this was ever solved in this long thread, but I just got my R5 today and getting the rear screen to behave like on my DSLR was one of the first things I was looking for in the settings. And at least with the current firmware it seems easy enough. Just go in the menu, red #7, Shooting info. disp., Screen info. settings. There enable screen #6 which stands for screen off. Then leave the menu, use the info button to toggle the rear screen till it is in that #6 and goes off. Now just leave it there. As far as I can see it behaves like on the DSLR with that, no live view, if configured it shows the image you just took and if you use the menu or play button it will also act accordingly.
 
You are exactly right and why this just may be the most ridiculous thread I’ve ever seen on DPR.
 
You are exactly right and why this just may be the most ridiculous thread I’ve ever seen on DPR.
Yes, but it seems this option was added only in a later firmware. Just watched the R5 user's guide video from Jared Polin, and there that screen 6 that turns of the rear screen was not yet present in the rear screen customization menu. So I guess at the time the thread was current, this might not have been possible yet ...

--
https://www.the-ninth.com
 
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You are exactly right and why this just may be the most ridiculous thread I’ve ever seen on DPR.
Are you sure it is? Or this is yet another symptom of commenting on a thread without reading it first?

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/64998394

That post is about 8 months into this threads life. You had more than a year since then to read it fully
Thank you ! This very thread might indeed have played a little role and eventually made Canon address this concern. (the coincidence of this new feature via firmware release is enlightening)
 
One of the reasons why the thread went on a bit was the issue was addressed for the R5 by not the R6 (it may have been by now though). Apparently this was not a problem though because we all we had to do, according to some posters, was to learn how to use our cameras how they were designed to be used - and 'go take great pictures and stop worrying about gear' - posted by someone on a gear forum!!!!!
 
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