Problem with hard to remove sensor dust on GH6 in the UK

IanMaw

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Location
Portsmouth, UK, UK
Hi,

I have a couple of spots that look like dust on my sensor. I tried a blower, sensor swabs and an Arctic Butterfly but they were still there.

My local London Camera Exchange in Reading tried to remove the dust (assuming it is in fact dust) without success (they were kind enough not to charge me any money). Interestingly even with a loupe they could not see the 'dust'. The rear of my lens looks clean by the way.

I did try the self cleaning before anything else but it didn't help.

I am now thinking that I may need to send it to DKAVS which is the official UK service provider for Panasonic.

Can any of you suggest anything else I can try before sending it to DKAVS please?

Thanks in advance.

Ian
 
Hi,

I have a couple of spots that look like dust on my sensor. I tried a blower, sensor swabs and an Arctic Butterfly but they were still there.

My local London Camera Exchange in Reading tried to remove the dust (assuming it is in fact dust) without success (they were kind enough not to charge me any money). Interestingly even with a loupe they could not see the 'dust'. The rear of my lens looks clean by the way.

I did try the self cleaning before anything else but it didn't help.

I am now thinking that I may need to send it to DKAVS which is the official UK service provider for Panasonic.

Can any of you suggest anything else I can try before sending it to DKAVS please?

Thanks in advance.

Ian
I suspect that the dust somehow managed to get inside the sensor. That is something that only Panasonic UK can resolve by either opening it up in a clean room and clean or simply replace the sensor with a new one.

Do you often use a zoom lens to shoot your video production?
 
Ian , do the marks show up in your images or videos ? A lot of the time you need to really stop down lenses to see any impact. Though our varying OCD level may cause the mere knowledge that something is amiss to cause angst :-)

Perhaps you could post a sample image showing the problem . To see if it has been found by others . I would imagine as you have tried all the typical senor cleaning methods that there could be something more than surface dust :-(
 
Hi,

I have a couple of spots that look like dust on my sensor. I tried a blower, sensor swabs and an Arctic Butterfly but they were still there.

My local London Camera Exchange in Reading tried to remove the dust (assuming it is in fact dust) without success (they were kind enough not to charge me any money). Interestingly even with a loupe they could not see the 'dust'. The rear of my lens looks clean by the way.

I did try the self cleaning before anything else but it didn't help.

I am now thinking that I may need to send it to DKAVS which is the official UK service provider for Panasonic.

Can any of you suggest anything else I can try before sending it to DKAVS please?

Thanks in advance.

Ian
I suspect that the dust somehow managed to get inside the sensor. That is something that only Panasonic UK can resolve by either opening it up in a clean room and clean or simply replace the sensor with a new one.

Do you often use a zoom lens to shoot your video production?
Thanks. I do use the PanaLeica 16-60mm. Maybe it has sucked dirt in. I did phone Panasonic and they told me to send my camera to DKAVS.

Ian
 
Ian , do the marks show up in your images or videos ? A lot of the time you need to really stop down lenses to see any impact. Though our varying OCD level may cause the mere knowledge that something is amiss to cause angst :-)

Perhaps you could post a sample image showing the problem . To see if it has been found by others . I would imagine as you have tried all the typical senor cleaning methods that there could be something more than surface dust :-(
They do, and unfortunately due to differing lighting conditions I sometimes end up at small apertures.

I posted an image shown below which shows the dust spots.

This was taken at f14, which I would normally avoid as I would worry about loss of sharpness due to diffraction.

Any more feedback would be much appreciated. Can the photo below be viewed at 100%. If not should I post close ups of the spots?

Thanks,

Ian





Dust spots on photos taken with my GH4. Deliberately underexposed and at f14.
Dust spots on photos taken with my GH4. Deliberately underexposed and at f14.
 
Ian , do the marks show up in your images or videos ? A lot of the time you need to really stop down lenses to see any impact. Though our varying OCD level may cause the mere knowledge that something is amiss to cause angst :-)

Perhaps you could post a sample image showing the problem . To see if it has been found by others . I would imagine as you have tried all the typical senor cleaning methods that there could be something more than surface dust :-(
They do, and unfortunately due to differing lighting conditions I sometimes end up at small apertures.

I posted an image shown below which shows the dust spots.

This was taken at f14, which I would normally avoid as I would worry about loss of sharpness due to diffraction.

Any more feedback would be much appreciated. Can the photo below be viewed at 100%. If not should I post close ups of the spots?

Thanks,

Ian

Dust spots on photos taken with my GH4. Deliberately underexposed and at f14.
Dust spots on photos taken with my GH4. Deliberately underexposed and at f14.
That is a bummer Ian it sounds like you have done everything that most would recommend . I think a trip to Panasonic's repairers is in order

--
Jim Stirling:
"To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason, is like administering medicine to the dead." - Thomas Paine
Feel free to tinker with any photos I post
 
Ian , do the marks show up in your images or videos ? A lot of the time you need to really stop down lenses to see any impact. Though our varying OCD level may cause the mere knowledge that something is amiss to cause angst :-)

Perhaps you could post a sample image showing the problem . To see if it has been found by others . I would imagine as you have tried all the typical senor cleaning methods that there could be something more than surface dust :-(
They do, and unfortunately due to differing lighting conditions I sometimes end up at small apertures.

I posted an image shown below which shows the dust spots.

This was taken at f14, which I would normally avoid as I would worry about loss of sharpness due to diffraction.

Any more feedback would be much appreciated. Can the photo below be viewed at 100%. If not should I post close ups of the spots?

Thanks,

Ian
Ian, another approach to avoid using smaller apertures with video production is to use a Variable Neutral Density filter, if you're haven't done this already.

Since shutter speed or shutter angle in video will eventually define your fixed frame rate, you have very little option to adjust exposures in brighter light conditions. In this case, the only way to reduce the exposure is to stop the lens down further with some undesirable effects, namely you get diffraction, but also you will start seeing dust spots. To reduce this, I use a good quality Variable Neutral Density filter, preferably a 10 stop kind to combat this issue. Well, most video producers will use some form of Neutral Density filters to adjust exposures, while fixing the frame rate and the aperture used. So in your case, you're at f/14. Let's say f/16 and you want to shoot @ f/5.6. That's a 3 stops difference. In this case, you need a 3 stops ND filter to reduce the light exposure, so you can shoot @ f/5.6 with normalized exposure.

Dust spots can be easily cloned out with stills, but can be a pain in the neck in video production and you can avoid seeing the spots once you normalized exposure using a Variable ND filter. If you had already deployed some form of ND filter and need to shoot with such a narrow aperture, then your only option is a visit to the official UK repair depot to have it looked at.
 
Last edited:
Ian , do the marks show up in your images or videos ? A lot of the time you need to really stop down lenses to see any impact. Though our varying OCD level may cause the mere knowledge that something is amiss to cause angst :-)

Perhaps you could post a sample image showing the problem . To see if it has been found by others . I would imagine as you have tried all the typical senor cleaning methods that there could be something more than surface dust :-(
They do, and unfortunately due to differing lighting conditions I sometimes end up at small apertures.

I posted an image shown below which shows the dust spots.

This was taken at f14, which I would normally avoid as I would worry about loss of sharpness due to diffraction.

Any more feedback would be much appreciated. Can the photo below be viewed at 100%. If not should I post close ups of the spots?

Thanks,

Ian
Ian, another approach to avoid using smaller apertures with video production is to use a Variable Neutral Density filter, if you're haven't done this already.

Since shutter speed or shutter angle in video will eventually define your fixed frame rate, you have very little option to adjust exposures in brighter light conditions. In this case, the only way to reduce the exposure is to stop the lens down further with some undesirable effects, namely you get diffraction, but also you will start seeing dust spots. To reduce this, I use a good quality Variable Neutral Density filter, preferably a 10 stop kind to combat this issue. Well, most video producers will use some form of Neutral Density filters to adjust exposures, while fixing the frame rate and the aperture used. So in your case, you're at f/14. Let's say f/16 and you want to shoot @ f/5.6. That's a 3 stops difference. In this case, you need a 3 stops ND filter to reduce the light exposure, so you can shoot @ f/5.6 with normalized exposure.

Dust spots can be easily cloned out with stills, but can be a pain in the neck in video production and you can avoid seeing the spots once you normalized exposure using a Variable ND filter. If you had already deployed some form of ND filter and need to shoot with such a narrow aperture, then your only option is a visit to the official UK repair depot to have it looked at.
Thanks for your kind response.

I wanted to avoid the 'X' artifact that I read could happen with variable ND filters. Instead I use a 2 stop one on bright days. I have a 4 stop one too should I need it. I only occasionally get caught one and have to use a small aperture, normally only for a short clip.

I did try the Resolve dirt removal filter and it did a good job, but the spot has a sky background and so contained little useful data.

I do have an additional concern that when I go to sell the GH6 to buy a GH7, which I plan to in September, I will have to admit the dust spots. Do you think this will significantly reduce the selling price, or is it so common that it is almost expected at really small apertures?

Thanks again,

Ian
 
Ian , do the marks show up in your images or videos ? A lot of the time you need to really stop down lenses to see any impact. Though our varying OCD level may cause the mere knowledge that something is amiss to cause angst :-)

Perhaps you could post a sample image showing the problem . To see if it has been found by others . I would imagine as you have tried all the typical senor cleaning methods that there could be something more than surface dust :-(
They do, and unfortunately due to differing lighting conditions I sometimes end up at small apertures.

I posted an image shown below which shows the dust spots.

This was taken at f14, which I would normally avoid as I would worry about loss of sharpness due to diffraction.

Any more feedback would be much appreciated. Can the photo below be viewed at 100%. If not should I post close ups of the spots?

Thanks,

Ian
Ian, another approach to avoid using smaller apertures with video production is to use a Variable Neutral Density filter, if you're haven't done this already.

Since shutter speed or shutter angle in video will eventually define your fixed frame rate, you have very little option to adjust exposures in brighter light conditions. In this case, the only way to reduce the exposure is to stop the lens down further with some undesirable effects, namely you get diffraction, but also you will start seeing dust spots. To reduce this, I use a good quality Variable Neutral Density filter, preferably a 10 stop kind to combat this issue. Well, most video producers will use some form of Neutral Density filters to adjust exposures, while fixing the frame rate and the aperture used. So in your case, you're at f/14. Let's say f/16 and you want to shoot @ f/5.6. That's a 3 stops difference. In this case, you need a 3 stops ND filter to reduce the light exposure, so you can shoot @ f/5.6 with normalized exposure.

Dust spots can be easily cloned out with stills, but can be a pain in the neck in video production and you can avoid seeing the spots once you normalized exposure using a Variable ND filter. If you had already deployed some form of ND filter and need to shoot with such a narrow aperture, then your only option is a visit to the official UK repair depot to have it looked at.
Thanks for your kind response.

I wanted to avoid the 'X' artifact that I read could happen with variable ND filters. Instead I use a 2 stop one on bright days. I have a 4 stop one too should I need it. I only occasionally get caught one and have to use a small aperture, normally only for a short clip.
Understood.
I did try the Resolve dirt removal filter and it did a good job, but the spot has a sky background and so contained little useful data.
I agree.
I do have an additional concern that when I go to sell the GH6 to buy a GH7, which I plan to in September, I will have to admit the dust spots. Do you think this will significantly reduce the selling price, or is it so common that it is almost expected at really small apertures?

Thanks again,

Ian
I really can't say by how much. Whenever you have issues like this, it is usually the price that motivates the buyer to pay to accept the faults of your camera. So it's better to fix it before you sell it to get your full value. Can you not write if off as a business expense to repair your GH6 or claim it under your business insurance?
 
Last edited:
Ian , do the marks show up in your images or videos ? A lot of the time you need to really stop down lenses to see any impact. Though our varying OCD level may cause the mere knowledge that something is amiss to cause angst :-)

Perhaps you could post a sample image showing the problem . To see if it has been found by others . I would imagine as you have tried all the typical senor cleaning methods that there could be something more than surface dust :-(
They do, and unfortunately due to differing lighting conditions I sometimes end up at small apertures.

I posted an image shown below which shows the dust spots.

This was taken at f14, which I would normally avoid as I would worry about loss of sharpness due to diffraction.

Any more feedback would be much appreciated. Can the photo below be viewed at 100%. If not should I post close ups of the spots?

Thanks,

Ian
Ian, another approach to avoid using smaller apertures with video production is to use a Variable Neutral Density filter, if you're haven't done this already.

Since shutter speed or shutter angle in video will eventually define your fixed frame rate, you have very little option to adjust exposures in brighter light conditions. In this case, the only way to reduce the exposure is to stop the lens down further with some undesirable effects, namely you get diffraction, but also you will start seeing dust spots. To reduce this, I use a good quality Variable Neutral Density filter, preferably a 10 stop kind to combat this issue. Well, most video producers will use some form of Neutral Density filters to adjust exposures, while fixing the frame rate and the aperture used. So in your case, you're at f/14. Let's say f/16 and you want to shoot @ f/5.6. That's a 3 stops difference. In this case, you need a 3 stops ND filter to reduce the light exposure, so you can shoot @ f/5.6 with normalized exposure.

Dust spots can be easily cloned out with stills, but can be a pain in the neck in video production and you can avoid seeing the spots once you normalized exposure using a Variable ND filter. If you had already deployed some form of ND filter and need to shoot with such a narrow aperture, then your only option is a visit to the official UK repair depot to have it looked at.
Thanks for your kind response.

I wanted to avoid the 'X' artifact that I read could happen with variable ND filters. Instead I use a 2 stop one on bright days. I have a 4 stop one too should I need it. I only occasionally get caught one and have to use a small aperture, normally only for a short clip.
Understood.
I did try the Resolve dirt removal filter and it did a good job, but the spot has a sky background and so contained little useful data.
I agree.
I do have an additional concern that when I go to sell the GH6 to buy a GH7, which I plan to in September, I will have to admit the dust spots. Do you think this will significantly reduce the selling price, or is it so common that it is almost expected at really small apertures?

Thanks again,

Ian
I really can't say by how much. Whenever you have issues like this, it is usually the price that motivates the buyer to pay to accept the faults of your camera. So it's better to fix it before you sell it to get your full value. Can you not write if off as a business expense to repair your GH6 or claim it under your business insurance?
Thanks. I am an amateur, although I do have photographic insurance.

I will send the camera off next week for them to look over.

Thanks for your advice.
 

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