Ordered R4

Can you upload the original files? It's impossible to comment about their technical merits without seeing the EXIF data.

Prog.
 
I did upload the full file.....
hmmmm
any idea where else I could upload so that you all could see the exif data?

can't upload all of them to my personal webspace.will use up all my limited space.
 
I hope someone who uses flickr can answer that. I personally don't know.

Prog.
 
I see

well I hope someone using flickr could help me too regarding the exif data.

anyway here is a comparison for

http://rodneykhor.com/ricoh/iso100.jpg

http://rodneykhor.com/ricoh/iso200.jpg

http://rodneykhor.com/ricoh/iso400.jpg

and another pic I took which I think using wide angle

http://rodneykhor.com/ricoh/4.jpg

Also I was wondering...when I use slow shutter function, sometimes too much light went in that the entire image is totally white.... How do I counter this problem?

http://rodneykhor.com/ricoh/water1.jpg
http://rodneykhor.com/ricoh/water2.jpg

for water 2 I wasnt using tripod but I just wanted to test it. Which other function must I adjust so that the light captured is not so high that my image became ermmm overexposed? or totally white.
 
You can see “More properties” in the right side of the picture, in “Additional information”.
--
Cheers.............. Rui
 
I do not need to activate it right??
I mean any viewer could see it right??
That's right, you don't have to activate it, anyone can see it.

Thanks for sharing.
 
I just downloaded one of the pictures, and the EXIF data was included.
Don't see what the problem with that is.

Rube

PS I use flickr, and the EXIF data seems to be automatically included. Am I missing something?
 
Your problem is camera shake.

ISO100.jpg and ISO200.jpg were both shot at 1/8 at 200mm. This shutter speed is way way too slow to handhold at this focal length. ISO400.jpg is a tiny bit better (at 1/13) but still not very usable, as expected from this combination of high-ISO, low speed and long focal length. Same story with water1.jpg and of course water2.jpg (you can't get usable images with 2 second handheld shots, regardless of focal length).

4.jpg is perfectly fine, though it could use some sharpening in post-processing.

You should get yourself a nice sturdy tripod ;-)

Prog.
 
how do I increase the shutter speed to make it faster?

I do have a tripod but......i don't carry it around with me often.
 
means I should turn on my flash even if it wouldnt be able to reach the subject to increase the shutter speed?

also how do i solve the problem with too much light coming in while i am using slow shutter function?
 
I think you are striking one of the limitations of a P&S camera. I.E. That in low light conditions, like even a cloudy day when you have zoomed a bit and the aperture is maxed out at f4.8 and you dare not use higher iSO than 200 that you are going to suffer from too slow shutter speeds. You have reached the maximum sensitivity of the camera and there is nothing you can do about that if the flash won't reach the subject and you don't have a tripod or brace, except maybe buy a DSLR with a huge and expensive lens.

I think that is why people want Fuji with high ISO, but they have almost no zoom. Oh well, thats life.

Brian
 
Under low light conditions and hand held, no pocket camera will provide nice results, in fact, people with large DSLR outfits will have exactly the same problem.

In anticipation of that low light problem, the typical DSLR user will bring a sturdy tripod.

When your only tool is the pocket camera and you have no tripod, then it is a matter of setting the camera on a post/rock/ground and taking the shot. As long as the camera doesn't move at all the result will be OK. Delayed shutter release helps.

Experience tells you when the shutter speed is too low, and of course the back LCD shows you if the result was rubbish. Then you try to set the camera on a rock etc.

On our last trip we took a mini tripod with bendable legs (about 200mm tall) and that works just fine. We also took a bean bag but didn't seem to use that. The bean bag can be as simple as a plastic bag with about 500 grams of rice in it. Ours was a home made sewn cloth bag about the size of your hand that had 500 grams of plastic beads (type used for filling toy bears) in it.

The advantage of the bean bag is that it sits on that rock or whatever and it can be scrunched to any shape to hold the camera safely at any angle, plus it helps stop the camera getting scratched or dirty.

You can get good shots in low light but you do need to have the camera held by something stable.

Regards............... Guy
 
with a bit of experience u will able to get a good result with 1/8 sec.

with the minolta X1 i could get good pics with 1/4(sometimes even 0.5sec).same with the pana fx09. it's always better to take 1 or 2 shots more.and if it doesn't work then maybe underexposure a bit,so u can get a faster exposure time.a bit of PP will help then.

at the beginning it's hard to handle these tiny cams..but with a bit of experience u will get better results.but a 2sec handheld will be impossible w/o being blurry.
i really don't know how good the antishake inside the R4 works.

all i can say is: the Minolta X1 and Pana's work really fine.but i know..they ain't got such a great zoom range. but even at full zoom u should be able to get a good shot with 1/16 sec(1/8 maybe)....(depends on how shaky ur hands r, i guess:))
let us know if u got some good handhelds made with ur R4.
have fun with ur nice cam
greetings from germany
schrei
--
the meaning of life?...well...go and get some Soulfood
Canon 20D
Pentax Optio 555
many Guitars
 
Can I use a slow shutter of about 2 sec when it isnt low light??
What on earth for?

If using a manually controllable camera in daylight, a 2 sec shutter speed would result in an all white totally blown exposure with no details whatsoever, unless you have a few tricks up your sleeve.

If wanting 2 sec exposure then you need something like f/200 in sunlight at 100 ISO, there's no such camera. For every doubling of the shutter speed (ie 1/100 to 1/200) there is a corresponding 1 stop difference in the aperture needed (more open in this case, say f/5.6 to f/4 as an example) to let more light through to make up for the shorter shutter time, assuming ISO and lighting conditions stay the same.

So all settings in this list provide the exact same exposure to the film or sensor..... (typical sunny conditions at ISO 100)

1/3200 @ f/2.8
1/1600 @ f/4
1/800 @ f/5.6
1/400 @ f/8
1/200 @ f/11
1/100 @ f/16
1/50 @ f/22
1/25 @ f/32
1/12 @ f/45
1/6 @ f/64
1/3 @ f/90
2/3 @ f/128
1.3 sec @ f/180
2.6 sec @ f/256

As there are differing limits on shutter speeds and apertures available to all cameras then some of those alternatives are just not available. The R4 can go from 2 secs to 1/2000 sec but is limited by the aperture range of f/3.3 to f/5.0 at wide angle ranging to f/4.8 to f/9.6 at the tele end. The full list of available apertures for the similar R3 is on my page at....
http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~parsog/photo/r3-01.html

People with SLRs or cameras that can fit filters on the lens sometimes use neutral density filters to lessen the light coming through the lens so they can achieve slow shutter speeds to get those dreamy silky soft water effects on streams and waterfalls.
Hows the other pics I took apart from the ones I posted with
problems I had.
The exposures look OK on those ones and the shutter speeds look to be in a sensible range for the occasions.

Regards............... Guy
 
maybe he likes to take experimental shots
--
the meaning of life?...well...go and get some Soulfood
Canon 20D
Pentax Optio 555
many Guitars
 
well.....yea I wanted to experiment with it. :) which is why I attempted the water stuff and a lot more. today tested taking portraits with a tripod under low light condition with 2 sec exposure. Looks good. too bad the person with the pic taken refuse to publish it on the web.
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top