Old files, big files and spring cleaning my hard disks

James O'Neill

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Try to keep a long story short.

I first used a computer at school which was obsolete already and used paper tape. One row of punched holes was one byte and IIRC 1/10th inch so 1MB would be ~100,000 inches 2.54KM / 1.6 miles. When I started using floppy disks they were 100K. The first hard disks I saw were 20MB and took about 20 minutes to back up to tape. So the K1 writing 40MB files is a sign of how far we've come.
I upgraded my laptop earlier in the year and have a bigger drive, I just cleared 120GB of raw files off it. A couple of laptops ago the hard drive wasn't that big. I did a search for duplicate files, which meant reading 220GB from my "my pictures" folder, generating a hash of each, and seeing if that hash had been seen before. It crunched them at 420 MB/Sec. That's 21 of those 20MB disks a second, or paper tape travelling at 1000KM/sec - air friction would cause it to catch fire long before that :-)

Since I had my archive drive out I went back to some old portraits. Some I'm quite sentimental about from the *ist-D, some with my original K5 and some with the K5-IIs a lot used the FA-50 f/1.4 lens. I only have a handful of shots with this lens and the the K1, but I should do an objective comparison (pun intended). I wondered what would happen if I reprocessed some old images - some from 2004 / 2005

The first thing was whether "enhance and super resolution" which is now in Lightroom - make any difference? The answer was a firm NO. It HAS given me amazing results with some shots of the New York Skyline I took with the *ist-D, but portraits don't have enhance noticeably, with the current tech at least.

The shock was the different way I (and I assume everyone) look at pictures.
I've made good A4 prints from 1MP, and have good A3 prints from the *-ist-D.
But the degree of zooming in I've grown used to reveals how little detail there was in an A3-printable image. Blemishes that I might retouch out on some pictures today wouldn't even resolve on the 6MP sensor which (AIUI) made matters worse with an anti-aliasing filter.
That FA-50 is a lens I liked, I was using it with studio flash and quite small apertures (mostly around f/8 or f/11) but for 3/4 portraits the head is towards the edge of the frame where the lens performance drops off, where I now see individual eyebrow hairs is just mush on a *ist-D image - partly the lens but mostly the sensor.

And zooming in I really notice noise. The base iso on the *ist-D was 200, and I was reprocessing some pictures which for reasons unknown used ISO 400 and f/11 instead 200 and f/8 - one of those shots I'm sentimental about was a "save" when the flash didn't fire and instead of reducing exposure by about 1/2 stop I had to increase it by 2 2/3, so net it's about ISO 2500. Pattern noise in the shadows, and intrusive noise is everywhere, needing heavy noise reduction at the cost of more detail and shadows need darkening to black.

Really, if I were doing this properly I'd find some K10D and K7 shots to compare, because there is a night and day difference between 16MP on the K5 and 6 on *istD.
The FA-50 delivers a ton more detail. I couldn't do a proper comparison of noise, but I found some where I'd used ISO 12,800 on the K5-iis to get a grungy look and it's far less than that "save". I took the K5 diving 10 years ago (!) and I needed ISO 6400 and posted https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/50779054 on the amazing performance. 2000-2010 was a period of massive sensor improvement, the improvement was something like <10% efficiency to >50% efficiency and obviously you can't double efficiency once it is over 50%., so the last 10 years couldn't deliver the same progress.

Examining K5 shots with the same critical eye there are "portfolio" shots which don't stand up to a 2023 sharpness benchmark, degrees of mis-focus which were acceptable then would make me unhappy now, and skin blemishes which are only noticeable at 300% I'd now retouch and didn't in 2013/14. I can, just, find details in shots with the K5-iis without the AA filter using the 77ltd which the combination of FA50 and K5 with AA filter didn't capture. If you know the scene from Blade Runner where Deckard zooms in and in and in on a picture, I think there is some detail I worry about now which only shows when given "the full Blade Runner treatment". Yes it would be visible if I made prints the size of tennis courts, and got down on my hands and knee to look, but in normal use... it really doesn't matter.

Editing today doesn't give dramatically different results. 2023 software instead of 2005-2015 software, and with all the extra experience I have doesn't give many improvements, but I will do shots today which I couldn't have made work then.
I worked with softness and a lack of absolute detail before, I seem to demand more now. My (maybe everyone's) idea of good evolves with the tools being used, and pixel peeping at a 36MP DFA* 85 image shows faults which were once invisible - I can't help thinking I'd be happier if I didn't put everything under the microscope at the the edit stage.

Thanks for reading to the end. Didn't intend to ramble so much.
 
James, great post. I found it interesting, and I pretty much share your observations as I've gone along in digital too.

I especially appreciate your last paragraph about how much does all this improvement lead to more enjoyment of photography. I certainly do appreciate the modern sensors, and I much prefer using the newer versions of RAW converters and editing software.

But a good "shooting buddy" is now shooting with a FF 50meg something, and gosh, the images are good. But his stuff was good before too.

Also, I'm no longer viewing images on the 32" BenQ which has been retired, or the amazing 6k 32" Apple Retina monitor I should not have viewed at a trade show. Today I prefer my 15" 4k Pantone validated laptop and I'm enjoying images, my own and my friends, in a kinder, gentler sort of way. No pixel peeping. I enjoy them as rendered.

And even some of my oldest "first try" digital looks nice this way. The image below is from a Kodak DC280, a 2-megapixel CCD, probably taken in early 2003. I have no idea how this would look on that 6k Apple screen. Small I guess. :-) But it's been fun to share some of our older work with each other in our little group. Instructive too. Some of the older images are pretty good.

Again, I enjoyed your thoughtful post. Thanks for submitting it.

2e83ffbe7fab455987f17ed6a8fc532e.jpg
 
How to Enjoy DCU5 Collection Photos: Digital Camera Utility 5 Extra Edition (Kosshi) | PENTAX official ... a web-page explaining the advantages of re-processing old images from Pentax cameras in the current version of Digital Camera Utility, to take advantage of the improvements in the software :)

SATOBI with a *istD … click-click done ;)
I can't find anywhere to download DCU and the CD is the camera box in the loft! I must install it at some point.
Clearly you need to buy a K-3iii. It has DCU stored on ROM so can always install and then apply updates :-)

Doug
 
James, you're not rambling at all. That comparison to paper tape is amazing. We have come so far in a really short time. Next will probably be 100mb images as a basic camera's standard, and even faster PCs with what, a terabyte of RAM, to process them without delays?

For all that -- a picture is still a picture telling a story, and the viewing device is the image size limiter. An image on an iPhone screen can only be so big. But what if the standard for a commercial photographer's image demands razor-sharp on a 6' (2 meter) screen when viewed from 1' away? Break out those credit cards for new cameras!
 
How to Enjoy DCU5 Collection Photos: Digital Camera Utility 5 Extra Edition (Kosshi) | PENTAX official ... a web-page explaining the advantages of re-processing old images from Pentax cameras in the current version of Digital Camera Utility, to take advantage of the improvements in the software :)

SATOBI with a *istD … click-click done ;)
I can't find anywhere to download DCU and the CD is the camera box in the loft! I must install it at some point.
DCU is available here https://www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/english/support/download_digital.html

The download is an "upgrade", so having an initial install from a CD is the easiest option, but an easy by-pass is available to allow installation directly from the download.

The user interface is a little "quirky" and the help/instruction file a little cryptic, but the latest version is quite easy to use now they've added mouse-overs to the various icons and there are some useful hints on other pages of the PentaxOfficial web-site I linked to above. ;)
 
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How to Enjoy DCU5 Collection Photos: Digital Camera Utility 5 Extra Edition (Kosshi) | PENTAX official ... a web-page explaining the advantages of re-processing old images from Pentax cameras in the current version of Digital Camera Utility, to take advantage of the improvements in the software :)

SATOBI with a *istD … click-click done ;)
I can't find anywhere to download DCU and the CD is the camera box in the loft! I must install it at some point.
Clearly you need to buy a K-3iii. It has DCU stored on ROM so can always install and then apply updates :-)
… and an immediate update may well be needed! The CD image originally included within the K-3iii was buggy … some of the sub-menus were only in Japanese! I've not heard if that's changed with newer cameras.
 
How to Enjoy DCU5 Collection Photos: Digital Camera Utility 5 Extra Edition (Kosshi) | PENTAX official ... a web-page explaining the advantages of re-processing old images from Pentax cameras in the current version of Digital Camera Utility, to take advantage of the improvements in the software :)

SATOBI with a *istD … click-click done ;)
I can't find anywhere to download DCU and the CD is the camera box in the loft! I must install it at some point.
Clearly you need to buy a K-3iii. It has DCU stored on ROM so can always install and then apply updates :-)

Doug
Assuming a K1-iii eventually arrives that might form part of the justification for the upgrade. I still need to make good on my promise to dispose of some lenses I don't use anymore. (Anyone want an FA-Soft 85mm ?) , adding another body might not be well received. Most of the software I've ever used is on my archive drive but for some reason the CD was never copied.
 
James, great post. I found it interesting, and I pretty much share your observations as I've gone along in digital too.
Thank you :-)
I especially appreciate your last paragraph about how much does all this improvement lead to more enjoyment of photography. I certainly do appreciate the modern sensors, and I much prefer using the newer versions of RAW converters and editing software.

But a good "shooting buddy" is now shooting with a FF 50meg something, and gosh, the images are good. But his stuff was good before too.
And a second thank you - sensors do improve but the first workable digital cameras were pretty inefficient beasts. Better tech first gave us resolution, then better high ISO performance.

Your picture backs up my observation that there is enough in a few MP to make decent A4 and A3 size prints. The first A4 print I made from the 4MP Optio 430RS was good enough to frame. I exhibited *ist-D pictures at A3 size. Etc.

I've cited this picture several times



This is the Seattle skyline at night and it's between it's part of a 4 shot panorama - with overlap is nearer 1/3 than 1/4 of whole, printed it's 210mm x 700mm / 8 x 27" at about 550 pixels per inch (my printer would take 329mm roll paper and print 13x43" at ~350 PPI).

In the centre of the picture are two taller towers. See the white pixel above the left hand one ? Zoom in and you can see not just that it is a flag, but despite fluttering in the wind, you can see stripes on it. But you need to do the Blade Runner thing interactively to see it. Dow from the flag the white/pale blue line is a Ferris wheel, go left and "Seattle Aquarium is borderline legible,. So if a K1-iii arrives with the 60MP sensor Sony have in the A7R V (and maybe it can only go in a Pentax after that camera has been out for some set time), maybe I could shoot that image next year with the 77 ltd, do the full blade runner and clearly read it. But even printed on 13" wide roll paper it's invisible. Giant images - remember when gigapixel composites first appeared - are really only useful for that interaction, not as a static picture. It needs close examination of something like a 32"x24" (A1 size) print to see all the detail in a K1 frame 50 or 60MP letting me print A0 and still not running out of detail is a technical marvel, but is it truly beneficial ?

I
Also, I'm no longer viewing images on the 32" BenQ which has been retired, or the amazing 6k 32" Apple Retina monitor I should not have viewed at a trade show. Today I prefer my 15" 4k Pantone validated laptop and I'm enjoying images, my own and my friends, in a kinder, gentler sort of way. No pixel peeping. I enjoy them as rendered.

And even some of my oldest "first try" digital looks nice this way. The image below is from a Kodak DC280, a 2-megapixel CCD, probably taken in early 2003. I have no idea how this would look on that 6k Apple screen. Small I guess. :-)
A 15" diagonal - 13x7" is probably about as big as you could print that image, and just as you could interpolate those 2 million pixels out to something like 200 million printer dots, (at 1440dpi). Certainly on my high DPI laptop screen images which are less than 1000 pixels wide scale up to look OK, and on my external screen (few pixels, more inches) I can see the quality dropping of. There's a certain amount of information in a picture, and it's not lines or pixels but "stuff", and it's the combination of the lens and the recording medium, and you might say with this lens, and this film for each square mm of film I can make so many square mm of print before I run out of quality. And for another lens, sensor, encoding method (JPEG in very lossy mode vs, lossless TIFF), this number of bytes/pixels will make this many sq mm of print / screen before the quality goes. Your DC-280 or my Optio 430 RS will look lousy at 30" whether that's your old screen, new screen or a print.

But do I care that picture I have of my parents or mother-in-Law holding their baby grandson was shot on 6MP. My son is 19, my Dad and mother-in-law are long Dead, the pictures matter more than quality. My granddad died before I was born and one of the most treasured things my grandma had was a 3"x3" photo of him.
Do we care that pictures of, say, Marilyn Monroe were shot with imperfect focus, with lenses and film which 25 years ago no-one considered fit for use? Did anyone tell Monet or Van Gogh that their pictures had too few brush strokes? The Idea of one of Monet's huge canvases needing 36 million brush strokes (which if he could do average 1 per second would need 10,000 hours of work), is comic, as is comparing a Van Gogh and Picasso on number of brush strokes. And we don't complain that beside some of Monet's lilies the Mona Lisa is a bit small.

I've copied and pasted the following more than once

In the introduction to his book "Examples: the Making of 40 photographs" Ansel Adams says "Absent from these pages are statements of what the photographs 'mean'. I cannot and will not attempt to describe the creative-emotional motivations of my work or the work of others… … Only the print contains the artists meaning and message"

In the end the picture in front of us matters, we can do some things with some files or negatives that can't do with others, but I think what will outlive us will be marks made on paper, not bytes.

But it's been fun to share some of our older work with each other in our little group. Instructive too. Some of the older images are pretty good.
YES! A 100 times yes.
Again, I enjoyed your thoughtful post. Thanks for submitting it.
And thanks back for joining in and letting me develop the thought
 
How to Enjoy DCU5 Collection Photos: Digital Camera Utility 5 Extra Edition (Kosshi) | PENTAX official ... a web-page explaining the advantages of re-processing old images from Pentax cameras in the current version of Digital Camera Utility, to take advantage of the improvements in the software :)

SATOBI with a *istD … click-click done ;)
I can't find anywhere to download DCU and the CD is the camera box in the loft! I must install it at some point.
DCU is available here https://www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/english/support/download_digital.html

The download is an "upgrade", so having an initial install from a CD is the easiest option, but an easy by-pass is available to allow installation directly from the download.
It is update only - it terminates if the previous version is not found. There's no obvious way to bypass that.
 
How to Enjoy DCU5 Collection Photos: Digital Camera Utility 5 Extra Edition (Kosshi) | PENTAX official ... a web-page explaining the advantages of re-processing old images from Pentax cameras in the current version of Digital Camera Utility, to take advantage of the improvements in the software :)

SATOBI with a *istD … click-click done ;)
I can't find anywhere to download DCU and the CD is the camera box in the loft! I must install it at some point.
DCU is available here https://www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/english/support/download_digital.html

The download is an "upgrade", so having an initial install from a CD is the easiest option, but an easy by-pass is available to allow installation directly from the download.
It is update only - it terminates if the previous version is not found. There's no obvious way to bypass that.
Rubbish … just re-label the installation media as S-SW177 and it'll go. The process has been documented (on the "other" forum) for ages. With the downloaded executable on your Windows desktop, simply temporarily re-label your hard drive and run the installer. If you don't fancy re-labelling your drive, copy the installer to a USB stick or even an SD card in your card reader with that label and it'll work ;)
 
How to Enjoy DCU5 Collection Photos: Digital Camera Utility 5 Extra Edition (Kosshi) | PENTAX official ... a web-page explaining the advantages of re-processing old images from Pentax cameras in the current version of Digital Camera Utility, to take advantage of the improvements in the software :)

SATOBI with a *istD … click-click done ;)
I can't find anywhere to download DCU and the CD is the camera box in the loft! I must install it at some point.
DCU is available here https://www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/english/support/download_digital.html

The download is an "upgrade", so having an initial install from a CD is the easiest option, but an easy by-pass is available to allow installation directly from the download.
It is update only - it terminates if the previous version is not found. There's no obvious way to bypass that.
Rubbish … just re-label the installation media as S-SW177 and it'll go. The process has been documented (on the "other" forum) for ages. With the downloaded executable on your Windows desktop, simply temporarily re-label your hard drive and run the installer. If you don't fancy re-labelling your drive, copy the installer to a USB stick or even an SD card in your card reader with that label and it'll work ;)
Thanks. That worked. And must be worst copy protection in history. I wouldn't call the work round obvious, but the right search would probably have found it. Thanks again
 
How to Enjoy DCU5 Collection Photos: Digital Camera Utility 5 Extra Edition (Kosshi) | PENTAX official ... a web-page explaining the advantages of re-processing old images from Pentax cameras in the current version of Digital Camera Utility, to take advantage of the improvements in the software :)

SATOBI with a *istD … click-click done ;)
I can't find anywhere to download DCU and the CD is the camera box in the loft! I must install it at some point.
DCU is available here https://www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/english/support/download_digital.html

The download is an "upgrade", so having an initial install from a CD is the easiest option, but an easy by-pass is available to allow installation directly from the download.
It is update only - it terminates if the previous version is not found. There's no obvious way to bypass that.
Rubbish … just re-label the installation media as S-SW177 and it'll go. The process has been documented (on the "other" forum) for ages. With the downloaded executable on your Windows desktop, simply temporarily re-label your hard drive and run the installer. If you don't fancy re-labelling your drive, copy the installer to a USB stick or even an SD card in your card reader with that label and it'll work ;)
Filed in the "Minor Unsolved Mysteries" folder within my brain... (there's a whole subfolder for various Pentax moves).

Why does Ricoh/Pentax make it *at all* difficult to acquire DCU software?
 
Filed in the "Minor Unsolved Mysteries" folder within my brain... (there's a whole subfolder for various Pentax moves).

Why does Ricoh/Pentax make it *at all* difficult to acquire DCU software?
I can only imagine it's something to do with the licensing arrangement with SilkyPix, though having arranged things so's the program will only edit Pentax-original images it would seem somewhat superfluous!

It is also weird in that Pentax themselves encourage the use of DCU for re-editing old images, as linked above, but still document the various versions of the software to be camera range specific, first Photo Browser 3, then DCU4 and now DCU5!
 
James, you're not rambling at all. That comparison to paper tape is amazing. We have come so far in a really short time. Next will probably be 100mb images as a basic camera's standard, and even faster PCs with what, a terabyte of RAM, to process them without delays?

For all that -- a picture is still a picture telling a story, and the viewing device is the image size limiter. An image on an iPhone screen can only be so big. But what if the standard for a commercial photographer's image demands razor-sharp on a 6' (2 meter) screen when viewed from 1' away? Break out those credit cards for new cameras!
Thanks Jon.

Over 30 years ago a rather green version of me in my first job said that we wouldn't go on finding uses for more personal computing Power. The awesomely powerful 16MHz 386 was surely going to be enough. A rather wiser old hand told said whatever science came up with we'd find a way of using. Fresh from having time on a Cray-1 super computer at University I scoffed at the the idea of Cray levels of Power for everyone, but for the last 5 years I've carried an iPhone which does the same thing I used that Cray for, and does it faster.

I think we are reaching a plateau with sensors resolution and efficiency. I don't know what the actual numbers are but if early sensors were 5% efficient you can get a 10 fold improvement. If Modern sensors are 50% efficient the best you can possibly get is another doubling

So if you take efficiency and pixel area, you know what the maximum number of counted photons will be, so how many bits per pixel you'll get for a certain level of illumination.

The *ist-D was 12 bits per pixel and 6MP. 10 years later the K3 was 14 bits per pixel (so four times as many photons counted) and four times as many pixels. Which looks like 16 times more efficient. Another 10 years hasn't brought us 16 bits/pixel and 100MP because there isn't another 16 fold improvement to be had.

The 72" monitor as a picture frame... yeah, that could happen. And it's really how we consume the pictures that says how much detail is enough. On a phone if we don't zoom in we can use a lot less than 1MP. On a 10x8 print or a laptop screen a couple of MP is fine - even if interpolated to the laptop's or printers native resolution. Bigger prints and screens we tend to stand further away, but ask "what happens if someone looks from very close" so we want more resolution for bigger sizes. If 64x36" become normal 24MP is only 100 DPI. Would we want it to be a high DPI screen like a giant version of my laptop, that would be 100MP native res, but would probably scale a 50MP image well enough. Then the problem becomes that we're looking at someone's face much bigger than life size, and recorded in very great detail and we'll need to up our airbrushing skills!
 
Saw an example of this -- my stepson was on a film shot in Del Mar. They had a lady bringing warm bathrobes out to wrap around the star, in her bikini out by the pool. Was she cold? No. But even the slightest goosebumps were suddenly showing up on the higher-res digital 'film' they were shooting that day. Stock market tip -- go long on modern makeup companies! Go L'Oréal!
 
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Saw an example of this -- my stepson was on a film shot in Del Mar. They had a lady bringing warm bathrobes out to wrap around the star, in her bikini out by the pool. Was she cold? No. But even the slightest goosebumps were suddenly showing up on the higher-res digital 'film' they were shooting that day. Stock market tip -- go long on modern makeup companies! Go L'Oréal!
I was going to say face cream :-)
 
....

For all that -- a picture is still a picture telling a story, and the viewing device is the image size limiter. An image on an iPhone screen can only be so big. But what if the standard for a commercial photographer's image demands razor-sharp on a 6' (2 meter) screen when viewed from 1' away? Break out those credit cards for new cameras!
Thanks Jon.

.....

The 72" monitor as a picture frame... yeah, that could happen. And it's really how we consume the pictures that says how much detail is enough. On a phone if we don't zoom in we can use a lot less than 1MP. On a 10x8 print or a laptop screen a couple of MP is fine - even if interpolated to the laptop's or printers native resolution. Bigger prints and screens we tend to stand further away, but ask "what happens if someone looks from very close" so we want more resolution for bigger sizes. If 64x36" become normal 24MP is only 100 DPI. Would we want it to be a high DPI screen like a giant version of my laptop, that would be 100MP native res, but would probably scale a 50MP image well enough. Then the problem becomes that we're looking at someone's face much bigger than life size, and recorded in very great detail and we'll need to up our airbrushing skills!
Yes, Jon and James, viewing distance is a major factor, I think.

Back in the film days I was involved for awhile with Cibachrome display transparencies. Our largest roll was 52 inches in width, but in the "field" I found that 40"x60" light boxes were about optimum for anywhere you'd do any volume of displays. Malls. Airports. Hotels. Always exceptions, of course. But most cases, larger than 40x60 meant you had to have a lot of room, or the viewer was too close.

Digital transparencies have changed some of this I know, but the optimum viewer distance I think has remained relatively constant. We can make images larger now, but extreme resolution viewed in a partial image just looks harsh and seems pointless to me.
 
....

For all that -- a picture is still a picture telling a story, and the viewing device is the image size limiter. An image on an iPhone screen can only be so big. But what if the standard for a commercial photographer's image demands razor-sharp on a 6' (2 meter) screen when viewed from 1' away? Break out those credit cards for new cameras!
Thanks Jon.

.....

The 72" monitor as a picture frame... yeah, that could happen. And it's really how we consume the pictures that says how much detail is enough. On a phone if we don't zoom in we can use a lot less than 1MP. On a 10x8 print or a laptop screen a couple of MP is fine - even if interpolated to the laptop's or printers native resolution. Bigger prints and screens we tend to stand further away, but ask "what happens if someone looks from very close" so we want more resolution for bigger sizes. If 64x36" become normal 24MP is only 100 DPI. Would we want it to be a high DPI screen like a giant version of my laptop, that would be 100MP native res, but would probably scale a 50MP image well enough. Then the problem becomes that we're looking at someone's face much bigger than life size, and recorded in very great detail and we'll need to up our airbrushing skills!
Yes, Jon and James, viewing distance is a major factor, I think.

Back in the film days I was involved for awhile with Cibachrome display transparencies. Our largest roll was 52 inches in width, but in the "field" I found that 40"x60" light boxes were about optimum for anywhere you'd do any volume of displays. Malls. Airports. Hotels. Always exceptions, of course. But most cases, larger than 40x60 meant you had to have a lot of room, or the viewer was too close.

Digital transparencies have changed some of this I know, but the optimum viewer distance I think has remained relatively constant. We can make images larger now, but extreme resolution viewed in a partial image just looks harsh and seems pointless to me.
I think optimum viewer distance is basically an angle. A lot of things which we expect to read / view at arms length are similar sizes and as things get bigger we move back to "see them properly", which means taking in the "big picture" and going light on the detail.

"extreme resolution viewed in a partial image just looks harsh and seems pointless to me." Yes! I've told this story a few times but when I had owned the K1 for 3 or 4 months I took some portraits of a nice looking youngish woman. 1/2 length, so her waistband was just in shot at the bottom of a portrait format shot, a little space above her head, so 7360 pixels is covering about 3 feet / 1 meter of subject, and shot from chest level, we see her nostrils... zoom in and nasal hair is quite clearly visible. And I thought then, "too much detail". I've found myself retouching out tiny things which aren't visible in life, which the *ist-D didn't get close to resolving, and the K5 barely does.
 

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