Need to replace 8 monoblocks. I bought 1 Godox to test before I go all in.

[Bionic963]

I have been using my current 600w/s monoblocks for the last 15 years and it is time start replacing them. I did some research here in the forum, and I decided to try Godox.

So before I go all in, and spend thousands of dollars on replacing everything, I thought it would be best to buy 1 Godox Monoblock and test it out..

Here is what I bought to test out.

$599.95 Adorama KIt (Flashpoint XPLOR 600) that included.

• 1 Flashpoint XPLOR 600 HSS Battery-Powered Monolight - Bowens Mount (AD600)
• 1 Flashpoint 10' C Stand on Turtle Base Kit, 40" Grip Arm & Two 3" Gobo Heads
• 1 Glow EZ Lock Quick Octa Large Softbox With Bowens Mount (36")

$100.00 Godox AD-AC AC Power Source Adapter from Amazon.

$68.00 Godox AD-H600B 600W Flash head Extension from Amazon.

$22.50 LimoStudio Super Clamp with Standard Stud from Amazon.

$59.00 Godox X2T-C E-TTL II 2.4G HSS 1/8000s Wireless Flash Remote from Amazon.

Total for all that was $849.45..

Yesterday I had an in studio shoot in which I used the new AD600 battery powered as the key light, and triggered via the on camera X2T-C. I used 2 of my 15 year old monoblocks for the back lights set in optical slave mode.

Setting the AD600 power to 1/16th provided an even head to toe exposure of F5.6 @ ISO200, 1/160th second. At this power the recycle time was instantaneous. The light was approximately 8 feet 4 inches away from the subject and mounted in a 6 foot diameter umbrella mount SIlver PLM with front diffuser fabric. I was able to set the power of the AD600 remotely with out any issues.



I was curious if the battery powered AD600 would last the entire shoot, in the event it didn't, I had also purchased the AC adapter. I fully charged the AD600 before the shoot and the battery did last the entire shoot! I shot a total of 416 frames during the session. After the session I checked the battery LED's and it still showed full. All 4 charge indicator LED's were still on. According to the tech specs of the ad600, it says it can go 450 full power flashes on a full charge. Since I was using it at 1/16th power, I guess that means it would go for 7200 flashes on a full charge.


Battery power still shows full after 416 frames shot.

During this studio session, out of the new equipment I bought, I have only tested out the XPLOR 600 (AD600) and the X2T-C Wireless Flash Remote and they both worked perfectly!


DPP Conversion Only, AD600 @ 1/16 power as Key light in a 6' SIlver PLM w front diffusion 8 feet away from subject. Produced an even f5.6 @ ISO 200, 1/160th of a second.

I still need to do an outdoor session to test the HSS capability as well as the other goodies I bought.

--
---
Brook

 

[robertfel]

Do you need battery power on all the lights?

If not, you can cut the cost in half.

 

[Bionic963]

Do you need battery power on all the lights?

If not, you can cut the cost in half.

That a good question! Even though the new equipment has battery power, do i really need it? Cause switching everything to battery does add the future expense of servicing and buying replacement batteries.... Heading over to Godox website now, to see what are my options are for packs and ac monoblocks.

 

[Bionic963]

Do you need battery power on all the lights?

If not, you can cut the cost in half.

So the Godox AC Monoblocks that have built in support for remote power setting and are available in 600WS are...

• QTII Series QT600IIM
• QSII Series QS600II
• DPIII Series DP600III
• DPII Series DP600II

Going to look deeper into those models as possible options for some of my replacements..

Thanks..

 

[robertfel]

I wondered what I would do if my 15 year old Profoto Acute 2 2400 pack ever died. I didn't know they make a 1200 mono; 2 of those would suit me well for my art reproduction assignment.

I need lots of light due to cross polarization. Now you've got me looking into them.

 

[JimResnikoff]

Glad you seem to be doing well with them.. I personally find them to be a great value and reasonably priced.

 

[kli]

Do you need battery power on all the lights?

If not, you can cut the cost in half.

So the Godox AC Monoblocks that have built in support for remote power setting and are available in 600WS are...

• QTII Series QT600IIM
• QSII Series QS600II
• DPIII Series DP600III
• DPII Series DP600II

Going to look deeper into those models as possible options for some of my replacements..

Keep in mind only the QTII series is IGBT and can do HSS; Adorama rebrands it as the Flashpoint Rapid 600. I believe the QTII and QSII series are also the only ones that autodump.

But the built-in 2.4 GHz radio receivers in the Godox Mark II (and MS series) strobes do allow for remote group, power, and modeling light control.

 

[Bionic963]

While digging into the specs of each Godox monoblock I did realize that the Flashpoint 600 supports HSS..

Here is the data I compiled when looking into an equivalent AC powered monoblock to the AD600. According to my data below, a few of the DP600III may work just fine for my in-door studio work (NO HSS).

I noticed that some of the strobes don't have tightening screws on the umbrella mount. How does those support heavy 6 foot PLM Umbrella's with out being able to tighten the screw against the rod? Will the "friction only" umbrella mounts hold the weight?

AD600 (non Ettl)

• $549 @ Adorama
• Built In Support for Godox X 2.4GHz remote management
• HSS to 1/8000s
• Flash Duration t.01 1/220s-1/10,000s
• Flash Recycle Time 0.01s - 2.5s
• Min Power setting 1/256th
• Color Temp 5600±200k
• 10 Watt LED Modeling Lamp
• Weight 6.4 pounds
• Size H: 8.6 x W: 4.9 x L: 12"in including battery and flash tube.
• Umbrella mount has thumb screw tightener

Godox DP600III

• $279.00 @ Adorama
• Built In Support for Godox X 2.4GHz remote management
• NO HSS
• Flash Duration t.01 1/800s-1/2,000s
• Flash Recycle Time 0.3 to 1.0 Sec
• Min Power setting 1/64th
• Color Temp 5600±200k
• 150W Tungsten Modeling Lamp
• Weight 5.93lb
• Size H: 8.5 x W: 5.0 x L: 16.5" Including Handle and Modeling Light
• No thumb screw tightener for Umbrella mount

Godox QSII Series QS600II

• $319 @ Adorama
• Built In Support for Godox X 2.4GHz remote management
• NO HSS
• Flash Duration t.01 1/800s-1/2,000s
• Flash Recycle time 0.3 to 1.0 Sec
• Min Power setting 1/32
• Color Temp 5600±200k
• 150W Tungsten Modeling Lamp
• Weight 6.42 lbs
• Size Diameter: 5.5", Height with Handle: 10.23", Length with Lamp Cover: 20.14"
• No thumb screw tightener for Umbrella mount

Flashpoint Rapid 600 HSS Monolight (Godox QTII Series QT600IIM)

• $599 @ Adorama
• Built In Support for Godox X 2.4GHz remote management
• HSS to 1/8000s
• Flash Duration t.01 Stable Color Mode 1/190s - 1/3,766s,
• Flash Duration t.01 High Speed Mode 1/190s - 1/19,606s
• Flash Recycle Time 0.05 - 0.9s
• Min Power setting 1/128 (1/16th in HSS mode)
• Color Temp Stable Color Mode 5600±200k
• Color Temp High Speed Mode 5400 - 9000
• Color Temp HSS Mode 4600 - 5000
• 150W Tungsten Modeling Lamp
• Weight 6.6lb
• Size 5.5in diam, 14.0in length (w/bulb)
• No thumb screw tightener for Umbrella mount

--
---
Brook

 

[tugwilson]

Do you need battery power on all the lights?

If not, you can cut the cost in half.

So the Godox AC Monoblocks that have built in support for remote power setting and are available in 600WS are...

• QTII Series QT600IIM
• QSII Series QS600II
• DPIII Series DP600III
• DPII Series DP600II

I did a post on the DP600III a few days ago https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4464369

 

[tugwilson]

While digging into the specs of each Godox monoblock I did realize that the Flashpoint 600 supports HSS..

Here is the data I compiled when looking into an equivalent AC powered monoblock to the AD600. According to my data below, a few of the DP600III may work just fine for my in-door studio work (NO HSS).

I noticed that some of the strobes don't have tightening screws on the umbrella mount. How does those support heavy 6 foot PLM Umbrella's with out being able to tighten the screw against the rod? Will the "friction only" umbrella mounts hold the weight?

You put a clothes peg (or clothespin if you're in the US, or a C-47 if you're a gaffer) on the shaft to stop it slipping.

 

[Richard Hopkins]

Assuming you need battery power for outdoor use (highly recommended!) consider the AD600Pro version for faster recycle, much better modelling LED, and marginally better colour.

I went for the AD400Pro with Flashpoint Pro2 trigger, mainly for lighter weight at the loss of half a stop brightness. The modelling LED is adequate whereas I'd say on the original AD600 it's marginal; on the AD600Pro it's very good. I like the upgraded Pro2 trigger too, exclusive to Flashpoint

If you're really getting eight heads (and don't use them all flat out at the same time!) you'll have plenty of spare batteries to hand.

ps I wonder if your AD600 actually hit the thermal cut-out rather than running out of battery?

 

[Bionic963]

While digging into the specs of each Godox monoblock I did realize that the Flashpoint 600 supports HSS..

Here is the data I compiled when looking into an equivalent AC powered monoblock to the AD600. According to my data below, a few of the DP600III may work just fine for my in-door studio work (NO HSS).

I noticed that some of the strobes don't have tightening screws on the umbrella mount. How does those support heavy 6 foot PLM Umbrella's with out being able to tighten the screw against the rod? Will the "friction only" umbrella mounts hold the weight?

You put a clothes peg (or clothespin if you're in the US, or a C-47 if you're a gaffer) on the shaft to stop it slipping.

Thanks for sharing the link to your DPIII review. Do you find that it is required to use a clothes pin for umbrellas when using the DP600III?

Also, since the unit does not come with it's own reflector I am assuming the special reflectors that have a hole cut in them to allow the umbrella shaft to pass through it, is not required?

 

[tugwilson]

While digging into the specs of each Godox monoblock I did realize that the Flashpoint 600 supports HSS..

Here is the data I compiled when looking into an equivalent AC powered monoblock to the AD600. According to my data below, a few of the DP600III may work just fine for my in-door studio work (NO HSS).

I noticed that some of the strobes don't have tightening screws on the umbrella mount. How does those support heavy 6 foot PLM Umbrella's with out being able to tighten the screw against the rod? Will the "friction only" umbrella mounts hold the weight?

You put a clothes peg (or clothespin if you're in the US, or a C-47 if you're a gaffer) on the shaft to stop it slipping.

Thanks for sharing the link to your DPIII review. Do you find that it is required to use a clothes pin for umbrellas when using the DP600III?

I haven't used an umbrella with it. However if you don't like the umbrella mount you can always ise an umbrella swivel like the Phottix Varos Pro BG (which will take loads of up to 30Kg. The light mount will fold flat against the body and has a hole which will take a spigot, the spigot then fits into the swivel and you have a non slip umbrella holder.

Also, since the unit does not come with it's own reflector I am assuming the special reflectors that have a hole cut in them to allow the umbrella shaft to pass through it, is not required?

I can't answer that but I'd guess you would need the reflector with a slit in it. They are very inexpensive.

A bit of information on HSS support: To implement HSS the light has to use a high speed switching transistor (IGBT) to regulate the output. It's very unusual to find that in a mains strobe. The Godox QTII is an IGBT device the rest of the mains strobes are VCO (voltage controlled) devices. Most if not all battery powered strobes are IGBT devices. One often overlooked difference between IGBT and VCO strobes is the flash duration. With IGBT devices the shortest flash duration is at the lowest power setting whereas VCO devices has the shortest flash duration at the highest power setting. Things are further confused by the fact that IGBT flash durations are often quoted as t.01 values as opposed to t.05 values for VCO strobes.

 

[Bionic963]

Assuming you need battery power for outdoor use (highly recommended!) consider the AD600Pro version for faster recycle, much better modelling LED, and marginally better colour.

I went for the AD400Pro with Flashpoint Pro2 trigger, mainly for lighter weight at the loss of half a stop brightness. The modelling LED is adequate whereas I'd say on the original AD600 it's marginal; on the AD600Pro it's very good. I like the upgraded Pro2 trigger too, exclusive to Flashpoint

If you're really getting eight heads (and don't use them all flat out at the same time!) you'll have plenty of spare batteries to hand.

ps I wonder if your AD600 actually hit the thermal cut-out rather than running out of battery?

Thanks! will look into that Flashpoint Pro2 Trigger.

In the user manual of the AD600 it states the following regarding battery maintenance.

Page 7

• Do not keep on charger more than 24 hours.
• If the battery had not been used for over 3 months, please make a full recharge.

Page 8

• Battery empty note : Please recharge the battery as soon as possible (within 2 days) or you risk shortening the usage life of the battery.

So for me to avoid the potential maintenance nightmare that having 8 batteries laying around could potentially create. I need to really evaluate how many battery powered strobes I really need.

Also, when I tested the AD600, it did not run out of battery... It lasted the entire shoot! I think you may have misinterpreted what I typed.

--
---
Brook

 

[tugwilson]

• If the battery had not been used for over 3 months, please make a full recharge.

I've been bitten by this problem with my AD600Pros. I left them for too long and they would not charge up. I managed to revive them with a bit of black magic which somebody here very kindly pointed me to on YouTube. I now have a two monthly reminder in my calendar to put them on charge if I've used them or not.

 

[Richard Hopkins]

Assuming you need battery power for outdoor use (highly recommended!) consider the AD600Pro version for faster recycle, much better modelling LED, and marginally better colour.

I went for the AD400Pro with Flashpoint Pro2 trigger, mainly for lighter weight at the loss of half a stop brightness. The modelling LED is adequate whereas I'd say on the original AD600 it's marginal; on the AD600Pro it's very good. I like the upgraded Pro2 trigger too, exclusive to Flashpoint

If you're really getting eight heads (and don't use them all flat out at the same time!) you'll have plenty of spare batteries to hand.

ps I wonder if your AD600 actually hit the thermal cut-out rather than running out of battery?

Thanks! will look into that Flashpoint Pro2 Trigger.

In the user manual of the AD600 it states the following regarding battery maintenance.

Page 7

• Do not keep on charger more than 24 hours.
• If the battery had not been used for over 3 months, please make a full recharge.

Page 8

• Battery empty note : Please recharge the battery as soon as possible (within 2 days) or you risk shortening the usage life of the battery.

So for me to avoid the potential maintenance nightmare that having 8 batteries laying around could potentially create. I need to really evaluate how many battery powered strobes I really need.

Also, when I tested the AD600, it did not run out of battery... It lasted the entire shoot! I think you may have misinterpreted what I typed.

"I was curious if the battery powered AD600 would last the entire shoot, in the event it didn't..." But yes, I see now that's not what you meant. Apologies.

 

[Richard Hopkins]

While digging into the specs of each Godox monoblock I did realize that the Flashpoint 600 supports HSS..

Here is the data I compiled when looking into an equivalent AC powered monoblock to the AD600. According to my data below, a few of the DP600III may work just fine for my in-door studio work (NO HSS).

I noticed that some of the strobes don't have tightening screws on the umbrella mount. How does those support heavy 6 foot PLM Umbrella's with out being able to tighten the screw against the rod? Will the "friction only" umbrella mounts hold the weight?

You put a clothes peg (or clothespin if you're in the US, or a C-47 if you're a gaffer) on the shaft to stop it slipping.

Thanks for sharing the link to your DPIII review. Do you find that it is required to use a clothes pin for umbrellas when using the DP600III?

I haven't used an umbrella with it. However if you don't like the umbrella mount you can always ise an umbrella swivel like the Phottix Varos Pro BG (which will take loads of up to 30Kg. The light mount will fold flat against the body and has a hole which will take a spigot, the spigot then fits into the swivel and you have a non slip umbrella holder.

Also, since the unit does not come with it's own reflector I am assuming the special reflectors that have a hole cut in them to allow the umbrella shaft to pass through it, is not required?

I can't answer that but I'd guess you would need the reflector with a slit in it. They are very inexpensive.

A bit of information on HSS support: To implement HSS the light has to use a high speed switching transistor (IGBT) to regulate the output. It's very unusual to find that in a mains strobe. The Godox QTII is an IGBT device the rest of the mains strobes are VCO (voltage controlled) devices. Most if not all battery powered strobes are IGBT devices. One often overlooked difference between IGBT and VCO strobes is the flash duration. With IGBT devices the shortest flash duration is at the lowest power setting whereas VCO devices has the shortest flash duration at the highest power setting. Things are further confused by the fact that IGBT flash durations are often quoted as t.01 values as opposed to t.05 values for VCO strobes.

And neither t.5 nor t.1 are reliable indicators of the kind of action-stopping potential you get with equivalent shutter speeds. Both can be seriously misleading - t.5 over-states, and t.1 tends to understate. The relatively new feature of 'colour stable' modes adds a further complication as it often includes multiple pulses sampled from different moments in the output that are mixed and matched for consistent colour.

Having said that, I can't think of a better way of trying to indicate action-stopping potential, but if it's critical be sure to check actual images for blurring and adjust if necessary.

 

[Bionic963]

Just wanted to update this thread...

Yesterday I ordered (1) Godox SK400II $139, (2) Godox X1R-C $40 each, & (1) Flashpoint R2 Pro MarkII $69.

I think a 400 strobe maybe enough for me due to the fact that when I had the AD600. I had the power settings at 1/16th 600Ws.. So I should be able to get the same exposure at a power that's a littler lower than 1/8th with 400Ws..

I bought the 2 Godox X1R-C's so that I can at least radio trigger 2 of my existing 15 year old dumb monoblocks while using the SK400II. But in all actuality, if the SK400II can do what I need in studio, I most likely will return the X1R-C's and just buy several of the SK400II's instead. It doesnt make sense to invest $40 each into camera specific transmitters that will be used to only trigger dumb monoblocks.. It would be better just to spend $139 to get new "smart" monoblocks that have built in wireless triggers with complete remote control that is not camera specific.

Man that is cheap! I remember over 10 years ago I spent over $1000 alone on just pocket wizard wireless transmitters (4 Flex TT5's ($230 each) and 1 AC3 Zone Controller ($80).

Will report back once I test the SK400II out..

One thing I am interested in seeing is the recycle time at 1/8th power. My current 15 year old 600ws monoblocks take about 2 seconds at full power. The documentation for the SK400II says that it takes 1 second at full power... We will see...

 

[kli]

It doesn't make sense to invest $40 each into camera specific transmitters that will be used to only trigger dumb monoblocks..

Which is why Adorama came out with their $25 Flashpoint SPT single-pin transceivers .

It would be better just to spend $139 to get new "smart" monoblocks that have built in wireless triggers with complete remote control that is not camera specific.

Yup. BTW, the Godox MS series is newer than the SKII, but only 200 Ws and 300 Ws units, and slower on the recycle. Smaller and go down to 1/32, though, not just 1/16.

 

[tugwilson]

It doesn't make sense to invest $40 each into camera specific transmitters that will be used to only trigger dumb monoblocks..

Which is why Adorama came out with their $25 Flashpoint SPT single-pin transceivers .

It would be better just to spend $139 to get new "smart" monoblocks that have built in wireless triggers with complete remote control that is not camera specific.

Yup. BTW, the Godox MS series is newer than the SKII, but only 200 Ws and 300 Ws units, and slower on the recycle. Smaller and go down to 1/32, though, not just 1/16.

The MS recycle time depends on the mains voltage. In the UK (240V) I'm getting full power recycle time on an MS300 of 1 second. I think the overheat protection is better too. I've fired 60 continuous full power pops before it starts to throttle. I've used but not owned the SK400 remember it throttling well before that.

If I was replacing 8 monoblock on a budget I think I'd get six MS300 and two DP600III.

If I was shooting Canon or Nikon cameras I'd use the XT32 trigger. If you are using up to 8 lights you are probably using more than four groups, as you aren't using TTL or HSS the XT32 is a better fit IMO.