Need some help: No signal after installing new video card

[Ab S]

I am new here at the PC forum but active at the Sony Cybershot forum.

Hope someone can help me: A few day ago I purchased a new video card ASUS Dual GeForce RTX 2060 6G EVO for my PC. I am using the Topaz AI family and DxO PureRAW DeepPrime.

The card fits perfectly to the PCIe 3.0 x16 slot and after powering up the led illumination on the videocard is working. Power is supplied by the PCIe slot. I used my existing HDMI cable to connect to the monitor. Changed cables to be sure, still no signal. What I noticed is 4 or so short beeps when powering up the PC . With the old video card (GTX 750Ti) everything works well (and no such beeps at starting up).

What can be wrong or am I doing wrong? In particular: the new RTX 2060 card has an 8-pin external power connector, which I am not using. Could that be the problem? According to the customer service of the shop where I bought the card, power only through the PCIe slot should be okay...

Below some pictures of the RTX 2060 video card installed in the PC.




RTX 2060 videocard installed in its PCIe 3.0 x16 slot and illumination active. Note the external 8-pin power connector at the right side of the card not connected.




HDMI cable at the rear side of the video card connect to the monitor




The result so far :-(

Looking forward to your advice

Many thanks,

--
Ab

 

[NickZ2016]

Are you sure it's not correct? You might need to calibrate your monitor.

 

[Austinian]

It works, thanks to your advice!

There was a bundle of cables with connectors at the backside of the PC coming from the power supply: A PCIe 6-pins connector was tied together with a 2-pins connector. I connected these to the 8-pin connector of the video card and had immediately signal on my monitor. After that I downloaded the applicable drivers. DxO PureRAW is more than a factor 4 faster than with my previous card!

Another problem now seems that the color is not correct, less saturation. I will have a look at the ASUS site.

Do you know that your previous video card was correct; was it calibrated with a hardware colorimeter? If so, rerun the calibration program.

If not, use the money you'd have spent on a new PSU to buy a basic colorimeter. Then you'll know for sure (within the limits of your particular monitor, of course.)

 

[BobKnDP]

What drivers are you using for the card?

I suggest getting them straight from nVidia. (I've been doing that for many years. It's usually the best course for desktop graphics cards.)

In particular, Studio drivers

What operating system are you using? Windows 10 or 11?

 

[Ab S]

It works, thanks to your advice!

There was a bundle of cables with connectors at the backside of the PC coming from the power supply: A PCIe 6-pins connector was tied together with a 2-pins connector. I connected these to the 8-pin connector of the video card and had immediately signal on my monitor. After that I downloaded the applicable drivers. DxO PureRAW is more than a factor 4 faster than with my previous card!

Another problem now seems that the color is not correct, less saturation. I will have a look at the ASUS site.

Do you know that your previous video card was correct; was it calibrated with a hardware colorimeter? If so, rerun the calibration program.

If not, use the money you'd have spent on a new PSU to buy a basic colorimeter. Then you'll know for sure (within the limits of your particular monitor, of course.)

The monitor 32" 4K BenQ was factory calibrated. Same pictures on my PC (with the old GTX 750 Ti) and on my PC looked the same (as far as I can see) when displayed side-by-side on the monitor; what I compared earlier. All to my satisfaction.

Doing the same with the new video card in the PC: the picture dispayed by the PC is a less saturated (not much but clearly visible to me) than the same picture dispayed by the laptop (when viewed side-by-side).

I think there is a option to adjsut the video card. Any experience? (I don't want to change setting of the monitor, for the moment)

Thanks,

 

[Ab S]

What drivers are you using for the card?

I suggest getting them straight from nVidia. (I've been doing that for many years. It's usually the best course for desktop graphics cards.)

In particular, Studio drivers

What operating system are you using? Windows 10 or 11?

Thanks! I am on my (work) laptop now.Will have a look tomorrow. I downloaded the drivers for the PC from GeForce. Windows 10.

 

[BobKnDP]

It works, thanks to your advice!

There was a bundle of cables with connectors at the backside of the PC coming from the power supply: A PCIe 6-pins connector was tied together with a 2-pins connector. I connected these to the 8-pin connector of the video card and had immediately signal on my monitor. After that I downloaded the applicable drivers. DxO PureRAW is more than a factor 4 faster than with my previous card!

Another problem now seems that the color is not correct, less saturation. I will have a look at the ASUS site.

Do you know that your previous video card was correct; was it calibrated with a hardware colorimeter? If so, rerun the calibration program.

If not, use the money you'd have spent on a new PSU to buy a basic colorimeter. Then you'll know for sure (within the limits of your particular monitor, of course.)

The monitor 32" 4K BenQ was factory calibrated. Same pictures on my PC (with the old GTX 750 Ti) and on my PC looked the same (as far as I can see) when displayed side-by-side on the monitor; what I compared earlier. All to my satisfaction.

Doing the same with the new video card in the PC: the picture dispayed by the PC is a less saturated (not much but clearly visible to me) than the same picture dispayed by the laptop (when viewed side-by-side).

I think there is a option to adjsut the video card. Any experience? (I don't want to change setting of the monitor, for the moment)

Thanks,

I don't know how much this will help, but this is a screen from the nVidia Control Panel:



I'm on Windows 11, but I believe 10 is the same. This is what I have in the Color Management control panel:



The ICC profile is one generated with DisplayCal using an X-Rite i1Display Pro Plus colorimeter. (The current version of it is from Calibrite.) You ought to be able to get a pretty good ICC profile from BenQ for you monitor.

I hope this isn't confusing. I assure you that I'm no expert in color management.

 

[Austinian]

It works, thanks to your advice!

There was a bundle of cables with connectors at the backside of the PC coming from the power supply: A PCIe 6-pins connector was tied together with a 2-pins connector. I connected these to the 8-pin connector of the video card and had immediately signal on my monitor. After that I downloaded the applicable drivers. DxO PureRAW is more than a factor 4 faster than with my previous card!

Another problem now seems that the color is not correct, less saturation. I will have a look at the ASUS site.

Do you know that your previous video card was correct; was it calibrated with a hardware colorimeter? If so, rerun the calibration program.

If not, use the money you'd have spent on a new PSU to buy a basic colorimeter. Then you'll know for sure (within the limits of your particular monitor, of course.)

The monitor 32" 4K BenQ was factory calibrated. Same pictures on my PC (with the old GTX 750 Ti) and on my PC looked the same (as far as I can see) when displayed side-by-side on the monitor; what I compared earlier. All to my satisfaction.

Doing the same with the new video card in the PC: the picture dispayed by the PC is a less saturated (not much but clearly visible to me) than the same picture dispayed by the laptop (when viewed side-by-side).

I think there is a option to adjsut the video card. Any experience? (I don't want to change setting of the monitor, for the moment)

The graphics card can be manually adjusted in the Nvidia Control Panel, but I prefer not to do that; rather I adjust my monitor in the calibration phase then let the colorimeter software profile the monitor.

I personally don't trust factory calibrations (my LG monitor was factory-calibrated but needed minor changes when I calibrated it myself) as monitors may change a bit over time. I also don't trust uncalibrated laptop displays.

Color management is not trivial, and depending on what the user requires can go far beyond my modest knowledge, which covers only my personal needs and monitor's settings.

So I will bow out of that discussion. We do have members with much more knowledge than I, and perhaps they will take this farther.

 

[kciuk aka Ken60]

Have you ever calibrated your monitor yourself and written the resultant profile to the monitor LUT ?

Where you using 10 bit or 8 bit colour and which program for processing images ?

30 bit colour is only possible with the Nvidia Studio drivers and Nvidia Control Panel set to allow 10 bit ..... and of course a 30 bit aware program like Photoshop set to 30 bit in preferences.

Remember for accurate colour you need to profile yourself and turn off HD, Night light settings in Windows etc.

 

[LynniePad]

My advice is to be skeptical of what salespersons tell you; I've heard truly ridiculous, unsolicited claims at one of the local Best Buy stores.

There’s plenty of scams about, particularly with HDMI cables etc.

A salesman once tried to sell me an expensive audio cable “because it’s faster”.

 

[Austinian]

My advice is to be skeptical of what salespersons tell you; I've heard truly ridiculous, unsolicited claims at one of the local Best Buy stores.

There’s plenty of scams about, particularly with HDMI cables etc.

A salesman once tried to sell me an expensive audio cable “because it’s faster”.

The audiophile world has been full of bizarre analog audio scam products for a long time, and when digital showed up...

https://hothardware.com/news/10000-...dio-fidelity-if-youre-stupid-enough-to-buy-it

 

[LynniePad]

My advice is to be skeptical of what salespersons tell you; I've heard truly ridiculous, unsolicited claims at one of the local Best Buy stores.

There’s plenty of scams about, particularly with HDMI cables etc.

A salesman once tried to sell me an expensive audio cable “because it’s faster”.

The audiophile world has been full of bizarre analog audio scam products for a long time, and when digital showed up...

https://hothardware.com/news/10000-...dio-fidelity-if-youre-stupid-enough-to-buy-it

An audiophile friend used to have speaker cables of quite extraordinary size, considerably larger than the speaker cables at our local 1000 seat theatre.

I did some volunteer work on the audio desk, and the theatre was known for the quality of the sound. For rock concerts, I used to rig the lighting desk to respond to the sound output and make the speakers glow red, throbbing with the music. Not sure if anyone noticed.

 

[Billiam29]

The audiophile world has been full of bizarre analog audio scam products for a long time, and when digital showed up...

https://hothardware.com/news/10000-...dio-fidelity-if-youre-stupid-enough-to-buy-it

It doesn’t even have to be stupidly expensive to be…well…stupid. My favorite for a while has been gold plated connectors as a marketing point on Toslink optical cables.

 

[BobKnDP]

The audiophile world has been full of bizarre analog audio scam products for a long time, and when digital showed up...

https://hothardware.com/news/10000-...dio-fidelity-if-youre-stupid-enough-to-buy-it

It doesn’t even have to be stupidly expensive to be…well…stupid. My favorite for a while has been gold plated connectors as a marketing point on Toslink optical cables.

An old favorite of mine: CD mass rings.

 

[SecondTimeAround]

The audiophile world has been full of bizarre analog audio scam products for a long time, and when digital showed up...

https://hothardware.com/news/10000-...dio-fidelity-if-youre-stupid-enough-to-buy-it

Since we're already OT, there's an interesting read here:

https://www.hifivision.com/threads/r-i-p-peter-aczel-the-audio-critic.67195/

"Cables - that's one subject I can't discuss calmly. Even after all these years, I still fly into a rage when I read $900 per foot or $5200 the pair. Thats an obscenity, a despicable extortion exploiting the inability of moneyed audiophiles to deal with the laws of physics".

 

[Sean Nelson]

"Cables - that's one subject I can't discuss calmly. Even after all these years, I still fly into a rage when I read $900 per foot or $5200 the pair. Thats an obscenity, a despicable extortion exploiting the inability of moneyed audiophiles to deal with the laws of physics".

Cables which carry modern digital signals do need to be made to exacting standards in order to reliably carry information that's is fighting against a low signal-to-noise ratio at very high speeds. But what a lot of people don't seem to understand is that virtually all digital protocols are protected by ECC information, and once you've built a cable of a given length that reliably carries data, you don't get anything better out of it by spending more money.

There are a few ancillary features such as more rugged or connectors rated for a longer lifetime or a sheathing that better withstands abuse, but in terms of signal integrity, if the data is transmitted error-free then nothing is going to make that signal any "better". And unlike analogue data, a digital signal that has errors is almost always incredibly obvious.

That having been said, cable problems are an ongoing concern, and I believe that it's worth spending a bit more money for well made ones. The really cheap cables eat up whatever money you saved in buying them through the amount of hair you pull out of your head trying to diagnose the problems that they cause.

 

[kciuk aka Ken60]

Try getting 30 bit colour to run on your monitor using some nasty cheep Display Port cable . The combination of 10 bit per channel , and Hi Gamut colour displayed at 2k or 4k requires something with a great bandwidth.

Sometimes audiophile stuff is real in practice. I have a pair of Kelly Transducers , the brand was bought by Musical Fidelity and built to use for their display sessions. I ran these on Bi wired, Bi amped Musical fidelity monobloc amplifiers . At first I used snow track cable so I could hide it easily, and ended up running them on Monster Cable so that I could see the true base emerge. No theory, no hard sell, no bragging rights, just a pair of ears and a love of great sound.

 

[Ho72]

Re analog: I read a cable "review" by a group of beer-o-philes who spent a Saturday afternoon drinking beer and listening to music for the purpose of auditioning various types of speaker wire. They found no discernable differences, regardless of price, and so declared an overall tie—with the possible exception of 12-2 Romex (deemed to be the lone inferior candidate). Scientific? No, but likely accurate enough for real world purposes.

--
Sometimes I look at posts from people I've placed on my IGNORE list. When I do, I'm quickly reminded of why I chose to ignore them in the first place.

 

[Sean Nelson]

Sometimes audiophile stuff is real in practice. I have a pair of Kelly Transducers.... I ran these on Bi wired, Bi amped Musical fidelity monobloc amplifiers.

Those are analogue cables, I'm talking about cables that carry digital signals.

 

[Austinian]

The OP's problem seems to be solved, and we are wandering far OT here. That should be it for this thread.