Long time Canon and Nikon user here, see my profile if interested.
First off, lets get the annoying things out of the way...
The Manual provided sucks. (I bought the Gary Friedman’s alternative and it’s worth it)
Yep - Sony tradition! Terrible manuals. Though it seems to have really taken root the past 4-5 years - older Sonys actually came with usable manuals (never great, but better than what they give you now). Fortunately, they usually have much more extensive full manuals available online for getting to know camera functions, and the guides like the one you picked up of course are an alternative.
The battery life is MUCH shorter than I’m used to.
Coming from DSLRs, surely it will be. I switch back and forth between A6000 and a DSLR, and can run as many as 2,500 photos easily off one DSLR charge - the A6000 typically does more along the lines of 350-450 in normal shooting, and can be pushed to around 850 or so in rapid shooting. There are some tips that help get the battery life up a bit: turn the 'sleep' to a low setting like 1 minute, turn off image review, turn on Airplane mode when you don't need wifi, switch focus to shutter press only (turning off pre-focus), and so on. Of course, the batteries are very very small, so picking up a few extra to keep in a pocket, bag, or even inside a shoulder strap isn't too bulky. I always have 3 batteries on me when I shoot the A6000 - and I can't recall ever going a day where I used more than 2...the extra is just for insurance.
Many of the on_LCD C2 button help files are short and pointless (e.g.: File Format = Selects the movie file format.) Friedman’s manual gives detailed whys and whens.
I disable the help menus as soon as I get the camera. They are pretty worthless - the camera works more smoothly with them turned off I find.
Ejecting and retrieving the SD card is near impossible with my fingers. I’ve devised a violent alternative: touch and press the SD card down and release immediately, and it will fly across the table or floor or room ;-)
There is a side-pinch method that can work, at least for me. I admit it's a strangely poor design - especially odd since all past e-mount camera bodies had a little more room to get your fingers in there - this is the only one that makes it more challenging. I just grab the SD from the two edges, rather than the two flat surfaces, and 'pinch' it out of the slot. I have shorter, chubby fingers so I definitely don't have the perfect hand build for getting into tight spots - this works well enough for me so far.
This camera will take pictures without a card inserted! (I’ve had a buddy take a day of important pictures with our realizing this.) My work-around is to NOT secure the battery door as a reminder to me that the camera is not ready to shoot yet.
Never noticed that - glad I haven't!
Things I’m amazed by...
(I had to sell my APS-C 7D to finance this and the 55-210)
The files are for most purposes noise free up to and including 1600 ISO
Agreed. And if you nail the exposure, even further - I shoot JPGs with no editing through ISO6400, even ISO8000, and the noise is superbly low while detail remains very strong - I am comfortable pushing the camera to ISO12800 myself.
The metering is very close and usually spot on. I have to Exposure Compensate (EC) my Canon files 60 % of the time whereas with the Sony about 20% of the time.
Agreed...I've never had an issue with metering so far.
The JPG output is very good and most of the time they are used for my viewing pleasure on my MacBook Pro. I do hardly any post processing of them. I shoot RAW + Small JPG for all pictures and am pleased with Standard, +1 Saturation, and +3 Sharpening for those JPGs. The files at small but wider than my 1920 pixel screen and the real winners will be processed from the RAW files if necessary, or if the +1 Saturation is too much for difficult lighting or people’s complexions.
Good approach I think - I do similar. I'm mostly a JPG shooter, but occasionally shoot RAW if I need the insurance, or am shooting very difficult situatiosn - and still end up often using the JPGs and not needing the raw. I'm a bit more conservative on settings, as I keep sharpening to -1 - I am always wary of white halos from oversharpening, so I prefer to do most of my sharpening in post processing if needed.
My Kit Lens is surprisingly good with only a touch of softness right side or top right corner, depending on the focal length and f stop. (Distortion or other defects unnoticeable because of Lightroom 5.) The 55-210 is a jewel and sharp throughout its focal range and image dimensions.
Agreed on the 55-210 - I also have a great copy of it, and it's a favorite lens of mine. I don't have the A6000 kit lens - I am still using the old 18-55mm silver kit lens from my NEX3, as I have a very good copy. I'm not too fond of power zooms, so the old 18-55mm is better handling for me, and some seem to think probably a little better overall in performance...at least if you get a good one.
The 10-18mm UWA lens is a beauty too - definitely a favorite of mine for travel. And as a low-light prime, the 35mm F1.8 OSS is also quite good - I like the wider focal compared to the 50mm, but that lens is also very good.
I’ve taken a thousand pictures in the past month and enjoy the lightness, responsiveness and convenience of this camera. I usually shoot Aperture Priority and like the easy choosing and viewing of the different apertures by the main control dial. I like the easy EC dial-in and the quick way of moving my single focus point around the viewing area, -all three of these adjustments without taking my eye away from the Electronic ViewFinder, which I like and am not spoiled by having used a better one. There appears to be no lag or ghosting here and since I do not review-display my taken shot on the LCD, focusing and repeated shooing is accurate and fast.
In some cases, there are folks who have come from using the higher-res, better-spec viewfinders of previous e-mount cameras, and who STILL prefer the A6000 viewfinder...I'm one. I was very happy with the excellent OLED unit previously, as the resolution was excellent, but contrast was a bit harsh, it was very prone to blow out highlights or crush shadows in very bright light, and to my eye was more grainy in low light - the lower-res unit on the A6000 works all-around more smoothly, more quickly, better refresh, better contrast, and better in extreme lighting conditions (all in my opinion, of course!).
The instant panorama stitching is great. (Although and tough to expect, I wish the output was larger.)
Remember the trick you can do to get larger files is to run your panos from the vertical portrait position - you get a little less width, but a lot more height, and so bigger res photos.
Lovely photos - you have a good eye, and a very interesting place you live too...love some of those remote BC areas! I met a couple years ago who were from one of the even-more remote islands of BC - north of you - Haida Gwaii - they showed photos from their island and it was stunningly beautiful - but they said they were waaaay off the grid - all generator & alternate power, boats in and out, walking trails or ATVs only, etc. I don't know if I could live quite that remotely, but would love to visit.
:-D:-O
