Lumix DMC-TZ40 shutter speed

[Antoniomcs]

Hi,

I'mt still a rookie, and i'm now discovering the manual settings of my camera (Lumix DMC-TZ40).
Whenever I change the aperture or shutter settings, sometimes the histogram turns to yellow (dependes on what is focusing). What does it mean? Is it because the settings are off mark for that focus?

I'm trying now the shutter priority mode, and I'ma having some difficulties.
In order to take photos of moving airplanes taking off, or waterfalls, to capture some motion, I reduce the shutter to 1/60 or less.
The more I reduce shutter, the more the pictures get brighter. ISO is marked at 100 (can't set less than that), and apperture is around f6.4.
So, I can't reduce ISO or apperture, in order for the pictures to get darker.
I don't know what to do, since decreasing the exposure doesn't affect much the picture.
Now, this happens with or without zooming in the object, and when there's a bright area in the image (the sky as a background, even with no sun, or the water in a waterfall with direct sun).

Has anyone tried to take nice photos with this camera (with objects moving and with a low shutter), using shutter priority?
I've tried changing any default setting that might be compromising the photos, but with no result.

Thanks

 

[Erik Ohlson]

Hi,

I'mt still a rookie, and i'm now discovering the manual settings of my camera (Lumix DMC-TZ40).
Whenever I change the aperture or shutter settings, sometimes the histogram turns to yellow (dependes on what is focusing). What does it mean? Is it because the settings are off mark for that focus?

I'm trying now the shutter priority mode, and I'ma having some difficulties.

It sound like you are complicating things too much.

I'll try to help. Probably you should stick to "iA" or "P" mode until you become more familiar with the camera.

A good, basic photography book from your local library would help to explain what's happening in the camera, or - better - a basic course in photography, such as are offered by most communities, would be an easy way to get questions answered.

This is difficult to put into a few words with no idea of your previous experience, but I'll try:

What you have to do is have the best amount of light on the sensor, and this is controlled by the Aperture (how wide the lens - or "window" is open) and the Shutter speed (how long the window is open), nothing else.

The only other control you have for exposure, is how sensitive the sensor is - this is called "ISO" - the higher the number, the greater the sensetivity.

In order to take photos of moving airplanes taking off, or waterfalls, to capture some motion, I reduce the shutter to 1/60 or less.

To take a picture of an airplane taking off, you need a high (fast) shutter speed, which would require a large aperture), and - depending on the lighting conditions, the camera's maximum ƒ/3.3 aperture may not be large enough, resulting in a dark picture.

Conversely, if you reduce the shutter speed, you let in more light and the picture gets brighter - and may well get TOO bright since the aperture cannot get smaller than ƒ/8.

The aperture range is very limited.

My suggestion for you is this: if you don't want to use "iA" or "P" modes which make the decisions about exposure very well until you feel more comfortable with the camera, forget "Manual" and "Shutter Priority" and stick to "Aperture Priority" - simply put, you are allowing the window to be wide open, and then the camera will choose how fast to make the shutter to get a proper exposure.

There are far more shutter speeds available for this than the limited amout of aperture differences, so the camera can choose an appropriate speed. In normal light, always use ISO 100

For minor lightening & darkening, use the +/- EV (top crescent of the 4-way controller) to adjust.

There are other considerations to what aperture and shutter speed do to your pictures, but it gets far too complicated for a short Forum answer.

I hope this may be of some assistance. Feel free to reply or send me a Personal message if you have more specific queations.

The more I reduce shutter, the more the pictures get brighter. ISO is marked at 100 (can't set less than that), and apperture is around f6.4.
So, I can't reduce ISO or apperture, in order for the pictures to get darker.
I don't know what to do, since decreasing the exposure doesn't affect much the picture.
Now, this happens with or without zooming in the object, and when there's a bright area in the image (the sky as a background, even with no sun, or the water in a waterfall with direct sun).

Has anyone tried to take nice photos with this camera (with objects moving and with a low shutter), using shutter priority?
I've tried changing any default setting that might be compromising the photos, but with no result.

Thanks

--
"Measure wealth not by things you have but by things for which you would not take money"
www.flickr.com/ohlsonmh/ [email protected]

 

[Greynerd]

As a quick fix use the sports mode in the scene modes. This will select a higher shutter speed than P mode.

Hi,

I'mt still a rookie, and i'm now discovering the manual settings of my camera (Lumix DMC-TZ40).
Whenever I change the aperture or shutter settings, sometimes the histogram turns to yellow (dependes on what is focusing). What does it mean? Is it because the settings are off mark for that focus?

I'm trying now the shutter priority mode, and I'ma having some difficulties.
In order to take photos of moving airplanes taking off, or waterfalls, to capture some motion, I reduce the shutter to 1/60 or less.
The more I reduce shutter, the more the pictures get brighter. ISO is marked at 100 (can't set less than that), and apperture is around f6.4.
So, I can't reduce ISO or apperture, in order for the pictures to get darker.
I don't know what to do, since decreasing the exposure doesn't affect much the picture.
Now, this happens with or without zooming in the object, and when there's a bright area in the image (the sky as a background, even with no sun, or the water in a waterfall with direct sun).

Has anyone tried to take nice photos with this camera (with objects moving and with a low shutter), using shutter priority?
I've tried changing any default setting that might be compromising the photos, but with no result.

Thanks

 

[Erik Ohlson]

As a quick fix use the sports mode in the scene modes. This will select a higher shutter speed than P mode.

Thanks for reminding me: I meant to say: "use "A" mode at it's widest, ƒ/3.3" - this will give the fastest shutter speed under any lighting conditions for a good exposure.

That may well be what the "Sports" mode does, come to think of it - just opens up the aperture !! ;-)









--
"Measure wealth not by things you have but by things for which you would not take money"
www.flickr.com/ohlsonmh/ [email protected]

 

[Greynerd]

I did a test shot earlier in the garden and sports mode it upped the ISO to 400 and 1/200 as the P mode was full aperture anyhow at 1/60 and ISO 125. Not good light so I think it would needs a bit of trial and error to see what happens in brighter conditions.

As a quick fix use the sports mode in the scene modes. This will select a higher shutter speed than P mode.

Thanks for reminding me: I meant to say: "use "A" mode at it's widest, ƒ/3.3" - this will give the fastest shutter speed under any lighting conditions for a good exposure.

That may well be what the "Sports" mode does, come to think of it - just opens up the aperture !! ;-)



--
"Measure wealth not by things you have but by things for which you would not take money"
www.flickr.com/ohlsonmh/ [email protected]

 

[kkardster]

Hi,

I'mt still a rookie, and i'm now discovering the manual settings of my camera (Lumix DMC-TZ40).
Whenever I change the aperture or shutter settings, sometimes the histogram turns to yellow (dependes on what is focusing). What does it mean? Is it because the settings are off mark for that focus?

I'm trying now the shutter priority mode, and I'ma having some difficulties.
In order to take photos of moving airplanes taking off, or waterfalls, to capture some motion, I reduce the shutter to 1/60 or less.
The more I reduce shutter, the more the pictures get brighter. ISO is marked at 100 (can't set less than that), and apperture is around f6.4.
So, I can't reduce ISO or apperture, in order for the pictures to get darker.
I don't know what to do, since decreasing the exposure doesn't affect much the picture.
Now, this happens with or without zooming in the object, and when there's a bright area in the image (the sky as a background, even with no sun, or the water in a waterfall with direct sun).

Your problem is that you're against the limits of the camera and your shutter speeds are too long. ISO 100 is the camera's minimum as well as f/6.4, so there's no where else for the camera to go with the exposure triangle. Since you're in Shutter-priority mode, the camera has no choice but to use the requested shutter speed; but since the ISO and aperture are already pegged, the photos get brighter as you slow down the shutter.

The normal solution would be to use a Neutral Density (ND) filter like a pair of sunglasses for your camera to reduce the amount of light reaching the sensor. I don't know if/how to do that for the TZ40.

 

[Greynerd]

Minimum aperture on my TZ40 if f8. My previous reply was nonsense as he is trying to reduce shutter speed so apologies to OP for that. As you say the limits of the camera are being reached as the maximum f numbers on these cameras are so low. That is why built in ND filters are so useful so a change of camera is possibly needed.

Sticking a filter on the TZ40 would be a bit of a bodge. Probably someone has an ingenious solution somewhere.

Hi,

I'mt still a rookie, and i'm now discovering the manual settings of my camera (Lumix DMC-TZ40).
Whenever I change the aperture or shutter settings, sometimes the histogram turns to yellow (dependes on what is focusing). What does it mean? Is it because the settings are off mark for that focus?

I'm trying now the shutter priority mode, and I'ma having some difficulties.
In order to take photos of moving airplanes taking off, or waterfalls, to capture some motion, I reduce the shutter to 1/60 or less.
The more I reduce shutter, the more the pictures get brighter. ISO is marked at 100 (can't set less than that), and apperture is around f6.4.
So, I can't reduce ISO or apperture, in order for the pictures to get darker.
I don't know what to do, since decreasing the exposure doesn't affect much the picture.
Now, this happens with or without zooming in the object, and when there's a bright area in the image (the sky as a background, even with no sun, or the water in a waterfall with direct sun).

Your problem is that you're against the limits of the camera and your shutter speeds are too long. ISO 100 is the camera's minimum as well as f/6.4, so there's no where else for the camera to go with the exposure triangle. Since you're in Shutter-priority mode, the camera has no choice but to use the requested shutter speed; but since the ISO and aperture are already pegged, the photos get brighter as you slow down the shutter.

The normal solution would be to use a Neutral Density (ND) filter like a pair of sunglasses for your camera to reduce the amount of light reaching the sensor. I don't know if/how to do that for the TZ40.

--
Bruce
You learn something new every time you press the shutter

 

[kkardster]

Minimum aperture on my TZ40 if f8.

OK - I checked the DPR specs and their f/6.4 matched what the OP stated so I thought that was the max.

 

[Greynerd]

You may be right because sometimes these compacts fake aperture with a ND filter so there may be a mix of real aperture and filtering.

Minimum aperture on my TZ40 if f8.

OK - I checked the DPR specs and their f/6.4 matched what the OP stated so I thought that was the max.

--
Bruce
You learn something new every time you press the shutter

 

[Erik Ohlson]

Minimum aperture on my TZ40 if f8. My previous reply was nonsense as he is trying to reduce shutter speed so apologies to OP for that. As you say the limits of the camera are being reached as the maximum f numbers on these cameras are so low. That is why built in ND filters are so useful so a change of camera is possibly needed.

Sticking a filter on the TZ40 would be a bit of a bodge. Probably someone has an ingenious solution somewhere.

I actually have perfectly good luck using a polarizer filter om my ZS25 camera by just holding it in loose contact with the front of the lens, although a "Pair of Sunglasses" could introduce all sorts of distortions - not really a practical solution to suggest to a self-identified "rookie" - best not to introduce confusion ;-)

HOWEVER, for anyone who wants to add such a thing to a ZS** camera, Ian Peregian has a solution:

http://www.ianperegian.com/My_FZ35_38_Webpage/ZS30_Adapter.html

Hi,

I'mt still a rookie, and i'm now discovering the manual settings of my camera (Lumix DMC-TZ40).
Whenever I change the aperture or shutter settings, sometimes the histogram turns to yellow (dependes on what is focusing). What does it mean? Is it because the settings are off mark for that focus?

I'm trying now the shutter priority mode, and I'ma having some difficulties.
In order to take photos of moving airplanes taking off, or waterfalls, to capture some motion, I reduce the shutter to 1/60 or less.
The more I reduce shutter, the more the pictures get brighter. ISO is marked at 100 (can't set less than that), and apperture is around f6.4.
So, I can't reduce ISO or apperture, in order for the pictures to get darker.
I don't know what to do, since decreasing the exposure doesn't affect much the picture.
Now, this happens with or without zooming in the object, and when there's a bright area in the image (the sky as a background, even with no sun, or the water in a waterfall with direct sun).

Your problem is that you're against the limits of the camera and your shutter speeds are too long. ISO 100 is the camera's minimum as well as f/6.4, so there's no where else for the camera to go with the exposure triangle. Since you're in Shutter-priority mode, the camera has no choice but to use the requested shutter speed; but since the ISO and aperture are already pegged, the photos get brighter as you slow down the shutter.

The normal solution would be to use a Neutral Density (ND) filter like a pair of sunglasses for your camera to reduce the amount of light reaching the sensor. I don't know if/how to do that for the TZ40.

--
Bruce
You learn something new every time you press the shutter

Unfortunately, the OP seems to have lost interest :-|



--
"Measure wealth not by things you have but by things for which you would not take money"
www.flickr.com/ohlsonmh/ [email protected]

 

[topcat07]

i never even knew what P did until reading through this , good stuff!

 

[kkardster]

I actually have perfectly good luck using a polarizer filter om my ZS25 camera by just holding it in loose contact with the front of the lens, although a "Pair of Sunglasses" could introduce all sorts of distortions - not really a practical solution to suggest to a self-identified "rookie" - best not to introduce confusion ;-)

Yeah, maybe my analogy of an ND filter to sunglasses could be taken the wrong way, but I in no way implied the use of actual sunglasses for this purpose! (Though I bet it's been done thousands of times over the years!)

 

[JahnG]

Hi.

The technical aspects you have got from Erik.

Here I just wish to give a sample what the older TZ 25 could do. Perhaps not so good picture, but reasonably sharp anyway.

best regards

JahnG


Take off from Helsinki Vantaa

 

[Erik Ohlson]

I actually have perfectly good luck using a polarizer filter om my ZS25 camera by just holding it in loose contact with the front of the lens, although a "Pair of Sunglasses" could introduce all sorts of distortions - not really a practical solution to suggest to a self-identified "rookie" - best not to introduce confusion ;-)

Yeah, maybe my analogy of an ND filter to sunglasses could be taken the wrong way, but I in no way implied the use of actual sunglasses for this purpose! (Though I bet it's been done thousands of times over the years!)

--
Bruce
You learn something new every time you press the shutter

Guilty as charged

Back in the early 70's, lacking a polarizer for my Film SLR, I used some "polaroid" (polarized) sunglasses, and the result was fairly bizarre.

So I bought a real filter. Still use it, it's a tad large for my ZS25 so it can be held flat to the front of the camer's lens easily and the center part that the camera sees through is not at risk for scratching.

You can actually tell when I'm in full "Travel Mode" - I carry two accessories - a tiny UltraPod and the polarizing filter. The Clearviewer is not an "accessory" - I consider it a part of the camera which I always have with me anyway.







--
"Measure wealth not by things you have but by things for which you would not take money"
www.flickr.com/ohlsonmh/ [email protected]