Life Size Macro & Macro Close-up

[number_5]

I'm running life size macro and close-up (as in macro) challenges, and many missed the life size macro, so I'm leaving some notes here.

Life size macro: google it. The image has to be taken at 1:1; you can't crop to 1:1.

Macro close-up: not life size macro but not just fill the frame. A tightly framed full bird image is not a macro close-up.

LIFE SIZE MACRO

If you have a 1:1 macro lens

1. AF, get the lens as close as you can till it can't focus anymore, and back out a little and take the picture
2. MF, set the focus distance to the minimum, and move the lens toward and away from the subject, take the picture when it's in focus. Don't use the focus ring, you might not hit the 1:1 mark.

If your lens is not 1:1, you can use extension tubes or close-up filters (DCR-250 or NiSi 49mm). Your focal length still needs to be long enough to get close to 1:1.

Check your lens' capabilities - use DPR lens spec page to find the maximum magnification.

Macro is a lot of fun, and it's usually MUCH cheaper than wildlife setups.

If you have any questions, leave a note, and someone, including myself, will help.

Thanks.

 

[Ian Stuart Forsyth]

I'm running life size macro and close-up (as in macro) challenges, and many missed the life size macro, so I'm leaving some notes here.

Life size macro: google it. The image has to be taken at 1:1; you can't crop to 1:1.

Macro close-up: not life size macro but not just fill the frame. A tightly framed full bird image is not a macro close-up.

Sure it can, what happens if I shoot a Blue jay @ 1:1 on my 8x10 camera. It is a tight framed image at 1:1

LIFE SIZE MACRO

If you have a 1:1 macro lens

1. AF, get the lens as close as you can till it can't focus anymore, and back out a little and take the picture
2. MF, set the focus distance to the minimum, and move the lens toward and away from the subject, take the picture when it's in focus. Don't use the focus ring, you might not hit the 1:1 mark.

If your lens is not 1:1, you can use extension tubes or close-up filters (DCR-250 or NiSi 49mm). Your focal length still needs to be long enough to get close to 1:1.

Check your lens' capabilities - use DPR lens spec page to find the maximum magnification.

Macro is a lot of fun, and it's usually MUCH cheaper than wildlife setups.

If you have any questions, leave a note, and someone, including myself, will help.

Thanks.

--
The Camera is only a tool, photography is deciding how to use it.
The hardest part about capturing wildlife is not the photographing portion; it’s getting them to sign a model release

 

[number_5]

I'm running life size macro and close-up (as in macro) challenges, and many missed the life size macro, so I'm leaving some notes here.

Life size macro: google it. The image has to be taken at 1:1; you can't crop to 1:1.

Macro close-up: not life size macro but not just fill the frame. A tightly framed full bird image is not a macro close-up.

Sure it can, what happens if I shoot a Blue jay @ 1:1 on my 8x10 camera. It is a tight framed image at 1:1

I stand corrected. I would like to see your live blue jay 1:1 image taken at the minimum focus distance. FWIW, the tightly framed bird in question was BIF.

Comment like this does not help for people who's trying learn.

 

[JFredrick]

I'm running life size macro and close-up (as in macro) challenges, and many missed the life size macro, so I'm leaving some notes here.

Life size macro: google it. The image has to be taken at 1:1; you can't crop to 1:1.

Macro close-up: not life size macro but not just fill the frame. A tightly framed full bird image is not a macro close-up.

LIFE SIZE MACRO

If you have a 1:1 macro lens

1. AF, get the lens as close as you can till it can't focus anymore, and back out a little and take the picture
2. MF, set the focus distance to the minimum, and move the lens toward and away from the subject, take the picture when it's in focus. Don't use the focus ring, you might not hit the 1:1 mark.

If your lens is not 1:1, you can use extension tubes or close-up filters (DCR-250 or NiSi 49mm). Your focal length still needs to be long enough to get close to 1:1.

Check your lens' capabilities - use DPR lens spec page to find the maximum magnification.

Macro is a lot of fun, and it's usually MUCH cheaper than wildlife setups.

If you have any questions, leave a note, and someone, including myself, will help.

Thanks.

Thanks for hosting these Challenges!

I think the confusion is the rules wording for Challenge #33. The rules state "Close up image". The line item for Life Size, or 1:1 image captured image should have been added for clarity. In Challenge #34 that is listed. It was the likely the intention for the Challenge or Challenges to be using a 1:1 macro lens or extension tubes instead of a close up or cropped image (I misunderstood that as well). All is good and fun Challenges!

 

[Kcleeton]

I am still trying to learn the 1 to 1 concept but I now believe I understand what it means for me as a micro four thirds user. Please correct me if I am wrong. The only lens that I own that can get to 1 to 1 is the 60mm macro olympus. This my only macro lens. If I use this lens and get focus as close as possible to a small subject that would be considered a 1 to 1 photo. To do that with any of my other non macro lenses would require an adaptation such as a diopter. I appreciate your help and enjoy your wonderful challenges.

 

[number_5]

I am still trying to learn the 1 to 1 concept but I now believe I understand what it means for me as a micro four thirds user. Please correct me if I am wrong. The only lens that I own that can get to 1 to 1 is the 60mm macro olympus. This my only macro lens. If I use this lens and get focus as close as possible to a small subject that would be considered a 1 to 1 photo. To do that with any of my other non macro lenses would require an adaptation such as a diopter. I appreciate your help and enjoy your wonderful challenges.

Yup. The key is minimum focus distance (MFD) and it's lens specific. When I want to 1:1, even the lens is AF, I disable the AF and use MF. If you can turn the focus ring to focus, it's not 1:1.

Your 60 macro has a dial on the side. When you turn the dial to 1:1, it set the lens to MFD and I believe also MF (??). The window on top of the lens, the left has the macro scale (1:4 - 1:1) and right is the focus distance. You can add a NiSi 49mm (+9) or DCR-250 (+8), and turn the lens into a 2:1. I think NiSi requires 100mm (FF) to get to 1:1 for a non-macro lens.

Enjoy.

 

[Kcleeton]

Thanks for the information. I need to use the 60mm more and keep in mind the close distance for 1 to 1.

 

[Mathew Anderson]

This looks like fun, good luck everyone!

 

[a_c_skinner]

The 1:1 "boundary" of macro, time honoured, arose when almost all very close up photography was done on 135 film, 24*36 frames. That meant filling the frame with an object about 36mm x 24mm, obviously. The reproduction ratio you need to fill the frame with that sized object is 1:1 on full frame, more than 1:1 on a medium format system and about 0.66:1 on APS-C and 0.5:1 on M4/3. This is one place where equivalence matters as much as for field of view.

Now 24*36 frames are no longer more or less universal the only utile way to define "macro" is by the size of object filling the field.