Lets stop the arguments and probe what is said...

[Daniella68313]

that freaked me out for a while..

I though that I was stupid enough to use Tv and then complain about the exposure! but hey...everyone makes mistake LOL!

That must be a bug in pbase? not sure why it report shutter priority..

hehe..

but they all came out either overexposed or underexposed with the
300d...all 76 of them!

in fact..this one was my best:

http://www.pbase.com/image/23374967

and mostly very overexposed or underexposed like this one,
depending if I was focusing on the light or dark area....yes
focusing.

http://www.pbase.com/image/23374969

I never had any problem to take those lemurs with my C700uz 300$
point and shoot and my Dimage 7.

Can anyone post samples of pictures taken with a "PRO" camera that
the 300D could not take?

By the same token, if someone has Pictures that can defeat the ones
posted please do so.

Lets demonstrate with results where the 300D stands...

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

Thanks Daniella.

Were the light conditions low? What lens did you use?

do you think that this is a camera issue?

--
I have nothing to say I never have and I never will
-Johnny Rotten

vmartinez67

--
Doug Walker
Check my profile for equipment list.

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

 

[Daniella68313]

Generally, with a high contrast subject the 300D will vary in
exposure more wildly IF you have used a setting in where its
evaluative light-metering is linked to the used AF-spot!!! (..which
is all settings except for "M" manual)

duh...yes exactly my point! and then in M mode, you only get center weighted! so where is the freaking evaluative mode? I still need to try the 7 points focusing but I have had no luck yet with it either.

(The manual should always be consulted, and in the case of the
over/underexposure you almost said it yourself...)

now that is a wise comment...how is that going to help? i read the darn thing 4 times..

In those settings the exposure system is set for the evaluative
metering using a lot of separate metering sections, which also are
linked to the used AF-sensor.
So, the camera simply "have to" give such exposure problems as
you´ve shown.

yes and that suck very much...why I said it is NOT a PRO camera.

IF you want more correct exposures you might set the metering mode
on "M", where the camera will meter the whole image with ONE
metering section covering the whole of the image BUT with gradually
more emphasis towards the center.

huh? have you read the manual yourself? it sais that in M mode it uses center weighted..or did I missed somethign..what page of the manual are you on?

This is possibly not very "sophisticated" but far more predictable,
after some time of experience using this type of metering.
The pros have used this metering method (the center-weighted) since
it came to existence about the early 1970´s, and it´s much better
in that it can be used predicting (...knowing...) what the outcome
will be.

center weigth is NOT evaluative.

Try this and learn when to set "over" or "under"-exposure if
needed, then results will be more reliable.

the meetering mode of the 300d still suck.

By the way:
A dark subject or/and background = set a minus(-) compensation
generally.
A light subject or/and background = set a plus (+) compensation
generally.

duh! but I like to use the central focusing point and the Av mode...what's wrong with that??? it should be working in ALL modes!

great tutorial..but that was not the point of my message in any ways...my point was that the camera is way too crippled to be considered a PRO camera.

 

[Daniella68313]

my 300$ point and shoot did a wonderful job at this situation..it's not the first time that I have been there you know

You have an extreme contrast subject in very extreme lighting. This
is where we seperate the amatuers from the pros not pro cameras
from consumer cameras. Meter for the black and bump exposure bias
+1/3 to +1.

yeah,...lots of trial and error here when my cheapo c700uz could do this no problem.

You may blow the white but that isn't much of a problem

because it is white.

now tha's a silly comment (sorry) but you should expose for the highlight no?..since it is easier to get back detail in the dark area than in the blown out highlight.

If it is more stops of light than the sensor

will handle you have two choices. Shoot RAW and make two
conversions and then blend. That is the easy one and the way I
would go.

even in RAW you still have to have proper exposure. you can only gain that much. I just wished that the camera could to a real evaluative like my 300$ camera and make an exposure in between..without trial and error and without me loosing good photo opportunity in the process.

Or two exposures one for the white and one for the black

and blend. Simple

yes very simple..simply IMPOSSIBLE to do with a moving lemur!!!!

are we talking about a static subject here? my main subject was a lemur, not a landscape.

This is the kind of place where are old Minolta D7 had a real
advantage. Just put it in manual and adjust till it looked good in
the preview. With the rebel it will take some real understanding of
what works.

yes exactly..so the 300d is not a PRO camera because of it's lack of control..and it is not an amateur camera either because you do required a lot of knowledge in those situations.

eventualy I will know the camera well enough to by pass those limitations..but there should not be such anoyance with the 10D.

I know it's a difficult subject very contrasty..but that is the beauty of evaluative meetering.

BIG HINT.... set the image review to always show the

info. Take the pic look at the histogram and adjust the bias. It is
simple and you won't have so many bad shots.

but they all came out either overexposed or underexposed with the
300d...all 76 of them!

in fact..this one was my best:

http://www.pbase.com/image/23374967

and mostly very overexposed or underexposed like this one,
depending if I was focusing on the light or dark area....yes
focusing.

http://www.pbase.com/image/23374969

I never had any problem to take those lemurs with my C700uz 300$
point and shoot and my Dimage 7.

Can anyone post samples of pictures taken with a "PRO" camera that
the 300D could not take?

By the same token, if someone has Pictures that can defeat the ones
posted please do so.

Lets demonstrate with results where the 300D stands...

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

--
Bill
http://www.pbase.com/slowpokebill
'Sometime the magic works. Sometimes it doesn't'

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

 

[Daniella68313]

I consistantly get under or over exposed images. I never had this
problem with my Nikons with matrix metering. I think with a good
metering system, the need for FEC would be rare.

I think this is a meetering issue. Because I was using central
focusing point..the meetering is linked to that and the camera
simply does not use evaluative meetering to take into consideration
other areas where I am not focusing. I should have done an
exposure lock on the neutral gray branches maybe? I have no idea
but all I know is that it is not a lens issue..it is the way the
stupid meetering works.

I coudl have used the 7 points focus and that might have helped not
sure. I will try that next time but it's a real bummer.

I don,t have the camera right now..it is at Canon for service for
shutter problem.

Thanks Daniella.

Were the light conditions low? What lens did you use?

do you think that this is a camera issue?

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

 

[Max Fun]

If you set the aperture, the shutter speed and the ISO in the M mode, what is the purpose of the centre weighted metering? I would have thought that it would be for the flash only, but there isn't any flash used here, is there?

Generally, with a high contrast subject the 300D will vary in
exposure more wildly IF you have used a setting in where its
evaluative light-metering is linked to the used AF-spot!!! (..which
is all settings except for "M" manual)

duh...yes exactly my point! and then in M mode, you only get
center weighted! so where is the freaking evaluative mode? I
still need to try the 7 points focusing but I have had no luck yet
with it either.

(The manual should always be consulted, and in the case of the
over/underexposure you almost said it yourself...)

now that is a wise comment...how is that going to help? i read the
darn thing 4 times..

In those settings the exposure system is set for the evaluative
metering using a lot of separate metering sections, which also are
linked to the used AF-sensor.
So, the camera simply "have to" give such exposure problems as
you´ve shown.

yes and that suck very much...why I said it is NOT a PRO camera.

IF you want more correct exposures you might set the metering mode
on "M", where the camera will meter the whole image with ONE
metering section covering the whole of the image BUT with gradually
more emphasis towards the center.

huh? have you read the manual yourself? it sais that in M mode it
uses center weighted..or did I missed somethign..what page of the
manual are you on?

This is possibly not very "sophisticated" but far more predictable,
after some time of experience using this type of metering.
The pros have used this metering method (the center-weighted) since
it came to existence about the early 1970´s, and it´s much better
in that it can be used predicting (...knowing...) what the outcome
will be.

center weigth is NOT evaluative.

Try this and learn when to set "over" or "under"-exposure if
needed, then results will be more reliable.

the meetering mode of the 300d still suck.

By the way:
A dark subject or/and background = set a minus(-) compensation
generally.
A light subject or/and background = set a plus (+) compensation
generally.

duh! but I like to use the central focusing point and the Av
mode...what's wrong with that??? it should be working in ALL modes!

great tutorial..but that was not the point of my message in any
ways...my point was that the camera is way too crippled to be
considered a PRO camera.

--
The Secret to Life is... Calcium!!
http://max-fun.fotopic.net

 

[Daniella68313]

my main complain is that it is way too much weighted on the focusing point...there seem to be no real evaluative mode at all!

I think this is a meetering issue. Because I was using central
focusing point..the meetering is linked to that and the camera
simply does not use evaluative meetering to take into consideration
other areas where I am not focusing. I should have done an
exposure lock on the neutral gray branches maybe? I have no idea
but all I know is that it is not a lens issue..it is the way the
stupid meetering works.

I coudl have used the 7 points focus and that might have helped not
sure. I will try that next time but it's a real bummer.

I don,t have the camera right now..it is at Canon for service for
shutter problem.

Thanks Daniella.

Were the light conditions low? What lens did you use?

do you think that this is a camera issue?

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

--
Bill
http://www.pbase.com/slowpokebill
'Sometime the magic works. Sometimes it doesn't'

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

 

[Daniella68313]

I am only blaming the camera for lack of control on the meetering mode.

it is way too weighted when you use central focusing point.

We shouldn't fault the camera for behaving the way a regular SLR
does (at least in this situation).

but they all came out either overexposed or underexposed with the
300d...all 76 of them!

in fact..this one was my best:

http://www.pbase.com/image/23374967

and mostly very overexposed or underexposed like this one,
depending if I was focusing on the light or dark area....yes
focusing.

http://www.pbase.com/image/23374969

I never had any problem to take those lemurs with my C700uz 300$
point and shoot and my Dimage 7.

Can anyone post samples of pictures taken with a "PRO" camera that
the 300D could not take?

By the same token, if someone has Pictures that can defeat the ones
posted please do so.

Lets demonstrate with results where the 300D stands...

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

 

[Daniella68313]

that would have been impossible to do in my case...I was inside in low light..and they were outside in bright light. If I would expose on a gray card beside me..it would have been all wrong for lighting. this is not always possible to do.

But I could have used a gray trunk probably. it is just an anoyance and makes you miss shots that would have been esay with a point and shoot that cost 300$

stop up or down, or use a gray card.

By using a gray card, do you mean holding a gray card out in front
of the camera (where it would be exposed to the same lioght as the
subject) and doing an exposure lock on it?
Carl

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

 

[Daniella68313]

it's only a guidance so that you know if the photo is over or underexposed. but again, it is weighted.. no real evaluative with the 300d?

Generally, with a high contrast subject the 300D will vary in
exposure more wildly IF you have used a setting in where its
evaluative light-metering is linked to the used AF-spot!!! (..which
is all settings except for "M" manual)

duh...yes exactly my point! and then in M mode, you only get
center weighted! so where is the freaking evaluative mode? I
still need to try the 7 points focusing but I have had no luck yet
with it either.

(The manual should always be consulted, and in the case of the
over/underexposure you almost said it yourself...)

now that is a wise comment...how is that going to help? i read the
darn thing 4 times..

In those settings the exposure system is set for the evaluative
metering using a lot of separate metering sections, which also are
linked to the used AF-sensor.
So, the camera simply "have to" give such exposure problems as
you´ve shown.

yes and that suck very much...why I said it is NOT a PRO camera.

IF you want more correct exposures you might set the metering mode
on "M", where the camera will meter the whole image with ONE
metering section covering the whole of the image BUT with gradually
more emphasis towards the center.

huh? have you read the manual yourself? it sais that in M mode it
uses center weighted..or did I missed somethign..what page of the
manual are you on?

This is possibly not very "sophisticated" but far more predictable,
after some time of experience using this type of metering.
The pros have used this metering method (the center-weighted) since
it came to existence about the early 1970´s, and it´s much better
in that it can be used predicting (...knowing...) what the outcome
will be.

center weigth is NOT evaluative.

Try this and learn when to set "over" or "under"-exposure if
needed, then results will be more reliable.

the meetering mode of the 300d still suck.

By the way:
A dark subject or/and background = set a minus(-) compensation
generally.
A light subject or/and background = set a plus (+) compensation
generally.

duh! but I like to use the central focusing point and the Av
mode...what's wrong with that??? it should be working in ALL modes!

great tutorial..but that was not the point of my message in any
ways...my point was that the camera is way too crippled to be
considered a PRO camera.

--
The Secret to Life is... Calcium!!
http://max-fun.fotopic.net

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

 

[DigRblMark]

Generally, with a high contrast subject the 300D will vary in
exposure more wildly IF you have used a setting in where its
evaluative light-metering is linked to the used AF-spot!!! (..which
is all settings except for "M" manual)

duh...yes exactly my point! and then in M mode, you only get
center weighted! so where is the freaking evaluative mode? I
still need to try the 7 points focusing but I have had no luck yet
with it either.

(The manual should always be consulted, and in the case of the
over/underexposure you almost said it yourself...)

now that is a wise comment...how is that going to help? i read the
darn thing 4 times..

In those settings the exposure system is set for the evaluative
metering using a lot of separate metering sections, which also are
linked to the used AF-sensor.
So, the camera simply "have to" give such exposure problems as
you´ve shown.

yes and that suck very much...why I said it is NOT a PRO camera.

Canon considers it an 'Amateur' camera - the 10D a 'Semi-Pro', the 1D or 1DS are considered Pro cameras - at least in Canon's market-speak.

IF you want more correct exposures you might set the metering mode
on "M", where the camera will meter the whole image with ONE
metering section covering the whole of the image BUT with gradually
more emphasis towards the center.

huh? have you read the manual yourself? it sais that in M mode it
uses center weighted..or did I missed somethign..what page of the
manual are you on?

This is possibly not very "sophisticated" but far more predictable,
after some time of experience using this type of metering.
The pros have used this metering method (the center-weighted) since
it came to existence about the early 1970´s, and it´s much better
in that it can be used predicting (...knowing...) what the outcome
will be.

center weigth is NOT evaluative.

Try this and learn when to set "over" or "under"-exposure if
needed, then results will be more reliable.

the meetering mode of the 300d still suck.

But, like he said, and as was said earlier in this thread, all SLRs - film and digital - will have problems with the two extremes (i.e. a black subject or a white subject). You need to make the proper adjustments. That's not just the 300D! You're blaming the camera again.

By the way:
A dark subject or/and background = set a minus(-) compensation
generally.
A light subject or/and background = set a plus (+) compensation
generally.

duh! but I like to use the central focusing point and the Av
mode...what's wrong with that??? it should be working in ALL modes!

BTW, the duh! is kind of rude. That aside, what he just said goes with ANY SLR! You should consider picking up 'Understanding Exposure' by Bryan Peterson - it covers all of this in depth.

It's always easier to blame the camera than the operator ...

great tutorial..but that was not the point of my message in any
ways...my point was that the camera is way too crippled to be
considered a PRO camera.

 

[Wm. Bates]

Seems that Canon's beginner DSLR is a little over your head. I'd go to the new Sony someday when they start to ship. Little bit of noise is easy to deal with. If you do then won't have to be asking about things like 300/f2.8 lenses that are $4000 more than you could afford to take bird pic. You won't need to complain about metering that you don't understand. Won't have to worry about focusing. You won't need to double check a histogram to see if you screwed up the metering you don't understand. And most of all you won't have to switch back and forth from the sony forum.

You have an extreme contrast subject in very extreme lighting. This
is where we seperate the amatuers from the pros not pro cameras
from consumer cameras. Meter for the black and bump exposure bias
+1/3 to +1.

yeah,...lots of trial and error here when my cheapo c700uz could do
this no problem.

You may blow the white but that isn't much of a problem

because it is white.

now tha's a silly comment (sorry) but you should expose for the
highlight no?..since it is easier to get back detail in the dark
area than in the blown out highlight.

If it is more stops of light than the sensor

will handle you have two choices. Shoot RAW and make two
conversions and then blend. That is the easy one and the way I
would go.

even in RAW you still have to have proper exposure. you can only
gain that much. I just wished that the camera could to a real
evaluative like my 300$ camera and make an exposure in
between..without trial and error and without me loosing good photo
opportunity in the process.

Or two exposures one for the white and one for the black

and blend. Simple

yes very simple..simply IMPOSSIBLE to do with a moving lemur!!!!

are we talking about a static subject here? my main subject was a
lemur, not a landscape.

This is the kind of place where are old Minolta D7 had a real
advantage. Just put it in manual and adjust till it looked good in
the preview. With the rebel it will take some real understanding of
what works.

yes exactly..so the 300d is not a PRO camera because of it's lack
of control..and it is not an amateur camera either because you do
required a lot of knowledge in those situations.

eventualy I will know the camera well enough to by pass those
limitations..but there should not be such anoyance with the 10D.

I know it's a difficult subject very contrasty..but that is the
beauty of evaluative meetering.

BIG HINT.... set the image review to always show the

info. Take the pic look at the histogram and adjust the bias. It is
simple and you won't have so many bad shots.

but they all came out either overexposed or underexposed with the
300d...all 76 of them!

in fact..this one was my best:

http://www.pbase.com/image/23374967

and mostly very overexposed or underexposed like this one,
depending if I was focusing on the light or dark area....yes
focusing.

http://www.pbase.com/image/23374969

I never had any problem to take those lemurs with my C700uz 300$
point and shoot and my Dimage 7.

Can anyone post samples of pictures taken with a "PRO" camera that
the 300D could not take?

By the same token, if someone has Pictures that can defeat the ones
posted please do so.

Lets demonstrate with results where the 300D stands...

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

--
Bill
http://www.pbase.com/slowpokebill
'Sometime the magic works. Sometimes it doesn't'

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

--
Bill
http://www.pbase.com/slowpokebill
'Sometime the magic works. Sometimes it doesn't'

 

[DigRblMark]

that would have been impossible to do in my case...I was inside in
low light..and they were outside in bright light. If I would
expose on a gray card beside me..it would have been all wrong for
lighting. this is not always possible to do.

But I could have used a gray trunk probably. it is just an
anoyance and makes you miss shots that would have been esay with a
point and shoot that cost 300$

You're right - a gray card isn't always easy to do. However, you could just adjust the exposure compensation.

stop up or down, or use a gray card.

By using a gray card, do you mean holding a gray card out in front
of the camera (where it would be exposed to the same lioght as the
subject) and doing an exposure lock on it?
Carl

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

 

[Wm. Bates]

Bill
http://www.pbase.com/slowpokebill
'Sometime the magic works. Sometimes it doesn't'

 

[Chillihead]

Isn't this why the camera has auto-bracketing? Not one person has ever mentioned the use of bracketing, so I have to wonder IF anyone does use it?

but they all came out either overexposed or underexposed with the
300d...all 76 of them!

in fact..this one was my best:

http://www.pbase.com/image/23374967

and mostly very overexposed or underexposed like this one,
depending if I was focusing on the light or dark area....yes
focusing.

http://www.pbase.com/image/23374969

I never had any problem to take those lemurs with my C700uz 300$
point and shoot and my Dimage 7.

Can anyone post samples of pictures taken with a "PRO" camera that
the 300D could not take?

By the same token, if someone has Pictures that can defeat the ones
posted please do so.

Lets demonstrate with results where the 300D stands...

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

--
Bill
http://www.pbase.com/slowpokebill
'Sometime the magic works. Sometimes it doesn't'

 

[Simone M. Navarra]

I think that maybe you are getting better results with other cameras because you tested film cameras against the digital 300d. Film has more exposure range than digital, and if you get an underexposed shot the lab might fix it for you and you'll get a better print.

Am I right here?

Simone

but they all came out either overexposed or underexposed with the
300d...all 76 of them!

in fact..this one was my best:

http://www.pbase.com/image/23374967

and mostly very overexposed or underexposed like this one,
depending if I was focusing on the light or dark area....yes
focusing.

http://www.pbase.com/image/23374969

I never had any problem to take those lemurs with my C700uz 300$
point and shoot and my Dimage 7.

Can anyone post samples of pictures taken with a "PRO" camera that
the 300D could not take?

By the same token, if someone has Pictures that can defeat the ones
posted please do so.

Lets demonstrate with results where the 300D stands...

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

 

[Doug Walker]

In your case, where you are in shade shooting into an area that is in sun, you'd want to use the histogram to nail the exposure (hint: use the histogram) and then set the 300D to manual mode and dial in that aperture and shutter. This is done all the time in situations were the lighting is relatively constant. I just shot a stage show today and applied that very concept. Ths first few shots were test shots to determine exposure and the remainder of almost 200 shots were shot in manual. It is not the 300D per se that is giving you trouble with correct exposure as almost all pro type slr bodies will do the same in high contrast situations. Most pros shoot in manual much of the time anyway. In addition, you'll want to expose the hightlights correctly and the shadows fall where they may. Once you blow out the highlights there isn't any data there and you correct it in any image editing program. This is standard practive for DSLRs.

Generally, with a high contrast subject the 300D will vary in
exposure more wildly IF you have used a setting in where its
evaluative light-metering is linked to the used AF-spot!!! (..which
is all settings except for "M" manual)

duh...yes exactly my point! and then in M mode, you only get
center weighted! so where is the freaking evaluative mode? I
still need to try the 7 points focusing but I have had no luck yet
with it either.

(The manual should always be consulted, and in the case of the
over/underexposure you almost said it yourself...)

now that is a wise comment...how is that going to help? i read the
darn thing 4 times..

In those settings the exposure system is set for the evaluative
metering using a lot of separate metering sections, which also are
linked to the used AF-sensor.
So, the camera simply "have to" give such exposure problems as
you´ve shown.

yes and that suck very much...why I said it is NOT a PRO camera.

IF you want more correct exposures you might set the metering mode
on "M", where the camera will meter the whole image with ONE
metering section covering the whole of the image BUT with gradually
more emphasis towards the center.

huh? have you read the manual yourself? it sais that in M mode it
uses center weighted..or did I missed somethign..what page of the
manual are you on?

This is possibly not very "sophisticated" but far more predictable,
after some time of experience using this type of metering.
The pros have used this metering method (the center-weighted) since
it came to existence about the early 1970´s, and it´s much better
in that it can be used predicting (...knowing...) what the outcome
will be.

center weigth is NOT evaluative.

Try this and learn when to set "over" or "under"-exposure if
needed, then results will be more reliable.

the meetering mode of the 300d still suck.

By the way:
A dark subject or/and background = set a minus(-) compensation
generally.
A light subject or/and background = set a plus (+) compensation
generally.

duh! but I like to use the central focusing point and the Av
mode...what's wrong with that??? it should be working in ALL modes!

great tutorial..but that was not the point of my message in any
ways...my point was that the camera is way too crippled to be
considered a PRO camera.

--
Doug Walker
Check my profile for equipment list.

 

[Daniella68313]

I was not really there to learn about the histogram. I was also very FAR from expecting that I would get such results...

but what's your point? does that excuse the lack of proper meetering?

what If I want to use the AUTO mode? will it be my fault if it fails?

Bill
http://www.pbase.com/slowpokebill
'Sometime the magic works. Sometimes it doesn't'

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

 

[Daniella68313]

yes..trial and error = missed shots.

when you're shooting a landscape..it is not a big deal if you wait 5 minutes to set soemthing up..but when you're at the zoo..and you want to capture a nice moment quickly..it is very tricky.

that would have been impossible to do in my case...I was inside in
low light..and they were outside in bright light. If I would
expose on a gray card beside me..it would have been all wrong for
lighting. this is not always possible to do.

But I could have used a gray trunk probably. it is just an
anoyance and makes you miss shots that would have been esay with a
point and shoot that cost 300$

You're right - a gray card isn't always easy to do. However, you
could just adjust the exposure compensation.

stop up or down, or use a gray card.

By using a gray card, do you mean holding a gray card out in front
of the camera (where it would be exposed to the same lioght as the
subject) and doing an exposure lock on it?
Carl

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

 

[Daniella68313]

Seems that Canon's beginner DSLR is a little over your head.

do you have any brain in there??? hello!!!????

however..we can surely compare our photos if you want to judge my photography skills...

here is my gallery: http://www.pbase.com/zylen

where is yours????????????????????

I don,t beleive you're getting my point... my point was that the 300d has not enough control over the meetering and the focusing mode to be considered a PRO camera.

and your freaking insult wont change anything.

PERIOD

I'd go

to the new Sony someday when they start to ship. Little bit of
noise is easy to deal with. If you do then won't have to be asking
about things like 300/f2.8 lenses that are $4000 more than you
could afford to take bird pic. You won't need to complain about
metering that you don't understand. Won't have to worry about
focusing. You won't need to double check a histogram to see if you
screwed up the metering you don't understand. And most of all you
won't have to switch back and forth from the sony forum.

You have an extreme contrast subject in very extreme lighting. This
is where we seperate the amatuers from the pros not pro cameras
from consumer cameras. Meter for the black and bump exposure bias
+1/3 to +1.

yeah,...lots of trial and error here when my cheapo c700uz could do
this no problem.

You may blow the white but that isn't much of a problem

because it is white.

now tha's a silly comment (sorry) but you should expose for the
highlight no?..since it is easier to get back detail in the dark
area than in the blown out highlight.

If it is more stops of light than the sensor

will handle you have two choices. Shoot RAW and make two
conversions and then blend. That is the easy one and the way I
would go.

even in RAW you still have to have proper exposure. you can only
gain that much. I just wished that the camera could to a real
evaluative like my 300$ camera and make an exposure in
between..without trial and error and without me loosing good photo
opportunity in the process.

Or two exposures one for the white and one for the black

and blend. Simple

yes very simple..simply IMPOSSIBLE to do with a moving lemur!!!!

are we talking about a static subject here? my main subject was a
lemur, not a landscape.

This is the kind of place where are old Minolta D7 had a real
advantage. Just put it in manual and adjust till it looked good in
the preview. With the rebel it will take some real understanding of
what works.

yes exactly..so the 300d is not a PRO camera because of it's lack
of control..and it is not an amateur camera either because you do
required a lot of knowledge in those situations.

eventualy I will know the camera well enough to by pass those
limitations..but there should not be such anoyance with the 10D.

I know it's a difficult subject very contrasty..but that is the
beauty of evaluative meetering.

BIG HINT.... set the image review to always show the

info. Take the pic look at the histogram and adjust the bias. It is
simple and you won't have so many bad shots.

but they all came out either overexposed or underexposed with the
300d...all 76 of them!

in fact..this one was my best:

http://www.pbase.com/image/23374967

and mostly very overexposed or underexposed like this one,
depending if I was focusing on the light or dark area....yes
focusing.

http://www.pbase.com/image/23374969

I never had any problem to take those lemurs with my C700uz 300$
point and shoot and my Dimage 7.

Can anyone post samples of pictures taken with a "PRO" camera that
the 300D could not take?

By the same token, if someone has Pictures that can defeat the ones
posted please do so.

Lets demonstrate with results where the 300D stands...

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

--
Bill
http://www.pbase.com/slowpokebill
'Sometime the magic works. Sometimes it doesn't'

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

--
Bill
http://www.pbase.com/slowpokebill
'Sometime the magic works. Sometimes it doesn't'

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

 

[Wild-Mike]

Did you use the air blower inside the camera body prior to the shutter problem with your 300D ? If so, did you use it aggressively or blast the air forcefully?

Just wondering if that may have caused a problem so that I can avoid it with my camera.

Thanks,
Mike