IS lens...will it solve the problem

[Anesthaesia]

Hi,

I took some photos today indoors (butterfly hothouse) with my D60 and a Canon 75-300 USM III lens. I had to shoot at ISO400 due to the lighting. My average shutter speed was between 1/60 and 1/90. Using the lens at full zoom, I found that I got camera shake on almost all my pictures (left that thing called a "tripod" at home!!)

I have never used an IS lens, and I would like to know if it suits these situations. WouldI have been able to avoid camera shake with a lens with IS ? Also, would I have been able to use ISO100 comfortably ?

Basically, what situations do you benefit in using an IS lens ?

Cheers
Donovan

 

[Mishkin]

Anesthaesia wrote:

Yes, IS will handle 1/60 easily. Even with ISO 100, we're talking about 1/15-1/20, and IS can handle that, too! I have some tuck sharp shots made at 1/10 and even 1/6.

Hi,

I took some photos today indoors (butterfly hothouse) with my D60
and a Canon 75-300 USM III lens. I had to shoot at ISO400 due to
the lighting. My average shutter speed was between 1/60 and 1/90.
Using the lens at full zoom, I found that I got camera shake on
almost all my pictures (left that thing called a "tripod" at home!!)

I have never used an IS lens, and I would like to know if it suits
these situations. WouldI have been able to avoid camera shake with
a lens with IS ? Also, would I have been able to use ISO100
comfortably ?

Basically, what situations do you benefit in using an IS lens ?

Cheers
Donovan

 

[Michael Salzlechner]

IS will help with camera shake but it will not freeze subject movement which can be annoying with bflies. I would use some flash and try to shoot a little faster say 1/125 at least

--
Michael Salzlechner
StarZen Digital Imaging
http://www.starzen.com/imaging

 

[Anesthaesia]

Thanks for the reply

I understand that it will not freeze movement, but in most of the shots I took, the bflies were motionless, so it wouldn't have been a problem.

I just wanted to check that using the 300mm end of the lens, on ISO 100 at 1/10, would avoid camera shake. I take it from the replies that it would...

Would you say that IS is as good as using a tripod at these speeds ? Is it really that good ? I'm still trying to understand how a lens can help a shaky hand...

IS will help with camera shake but it will not freeze subject
movement which can be annoying with bflies. I would use some flash
and try to shoot a little faster say 1/125 at least

--
Michael Salzlechner
StarZen Digital Imaging
http://www.starzen.com/imaging

 

[smehe]

If your shutter speed was 1/60 or 1/90 then an IS lens would have made all the difference. I got the 100-400 IS lens some time ago (my first IS lens) and it made taking long shots a whole different experience. The percentage of usable long shots was increased tremendously thanks to the IS.

An important point though, is that the IS removes uncontrollable camera-shake. It does not remove camera/lens movement.

Hi,

I took some photos today indoors (butterfly hothouse) with my D60
and a Canon 75-300 USM III lens. I had to shoot at ISO400 due to
the lighting. My average shutter speed was between 1/60 and 1/90.
Using the lens at full zoom, I found that I got camera shake on
almost all my pictures (left that thing called a "tripod" at home!!)

I have never used an IS lens, and I would like to know if it suits
these situations. WouldI have been able to avoid camera shake with
a lens with IS ? Also, would I have been able to use ISO100
comfortably ?

Basically, what situations do you benefit in using an IS lens ?

Cheers
Donovan

 

[Paul Irving]

The IS on my 28-135 can't handle anywhere near that without shake. It stays sharp for an absolute maximum of 1 stop under the normal shutter speed = 1/focal length rule.

Don't forget 300 x 1.6 = 480 mm - this at 1/60 to 1/90 is probably asking a little too much

Paul

Hi,

I took some photos today indoors (butterfly hothouse) with my D60
and a Canon 75-300 USM III lens. I had to shoot at ISO400 due to
the lighting. My average shutter speed was between 1/60 and 1/90.
Using the lens at full zoom, I found that I got camera shake on
almost all my pictures (left that thing called a "tripod" at home!!)

I have never used an IS lens, and I would like to know if it suits
these situations. WouldI have been able to avoid camera shake with
a lens with IS ? Also, would I have been able to use ISO100
comfortably ?

Basically, what situations do you benefit in using an IS lens ?

Cheers
Donovan

--
Canon D30 + 28-135IS, Canon A20 + U/W Case.

 

[Michael Salzlechner]

Nothing is as good as a tripod but IS is certainly amazing. I often use a 100-400 to shoot butterflies and you can get sharp pictures hand held at 1/60 so it should be fine with 300mm

--
Michael Salzlechner
StarZen Digital Imaging
http://www.starzen.com/imaging

 

[smehe]

I don't really remember the specifics of the shutter speeds used. All I know is that the IS enabled me to take shots that there is no way I could take without the IS (not using a tripod, that is).

Of course, the IS is no gaurantee. The best thing is a tripod, but I find that more often that not, the time it takes to set up a tripod is roughly the time it takes for the shot to disappear...

The IS on my 28-135 can't handle anywhere near that without shake.
It stays sharp for an absolute maximum of 1 stop under the normal
shutter speed = 1/focal length rule.

Don't forget 300 x 1.6 = 480 mm - this at 1/60 to 1/90 is probably
asking a little too much

 

[Anesthaesia]

Does anyone know of a site showing examples using IS and without ?

I would really like to see a comparison of pics at slower shutter speeds making use of it, to get an idea. I realise it would vary from person to person depending on how good there technique is, but examples would be great.

Cheers
Donovan

Of course, the IS is no gaurantee. The best thing is a tripod, but
I find that more often that not, the time it takes to set up a
tripod is roughly the time it takes for the shot to disappear...

The IS on my 28-135 can't handle anywhere near that without shake.
It stays sharp for an absolute maximum of 1 stop under the normal
shutter speed = 1/focal length rule.

Don't forget 300 x 1.6 = 480 mm - this at 1/60 to 1/90 is probably
asking a little too much

 

[Adam-T]

I just wanted to check that using the 300mm end of the lens, on ISO
100 at 1/10, would avoid camera shake. I take it from the replies
that it would...

It definately cures the jitters but at that end of the zoom you tend to sway a little if you know what I mean and it can't solve that.. I'm very impressed with the results at the 300 end on both my 75-300IS and my C2100UZ

1/10 is pushing it unless you have a very steady hand, easier with the ultra light and tiny UZi but not so easy with a D60 + 75-300IS

--
Olympus C2100UZI +B300, E10, Canon D60.

My Ugly mug and submitted Photos at -------->
http://www.photosig.com/viewuser.php?id=27855

 

[Ken Phillips]

1/15 is usable consistantly with the 100-400L. It takes practice. 1/60 or a little better works for the average person.
Ken

I just wanted to check that using the 300mm end of the lens, on ISO
100 at 1/10, would avoid camera shake. I take it from the replies
that it would...

It definately cures the jitters but at that end of the zoom you
tend to sway a little if you know what I mean and it can't solve
that.. I'm very impressed with the results at the 300 end on both
my 75-300IS and my C2100UZ

1/10 is pushing it unless you have a very steady hand, easier with
the ultra light and tiny UZi but not so easy with a D60 + 75-300IS

--
Olympus C2100UZI +B300, E10, Canon D60.

My Ugly mug and submitted Photos at -------->
http://www.photosig.com/viewuser.php?id=27855

 

[Ken Phillips]

that IS on the longer Canon lenses is good for two to three stops, period. That's over what YOU can hand hold. I have very, very steady hands, and IS has virtually eliminated the need for a monopod while shooting wildlife. I have many shots under 1/60 ... and some at 1/8 ... while most are around 1/250 or so. I rarely shoot under 400mm ... times 1.3 (Canon 1D) or 520 mm effective focal length.

Go to a camera store and try a LONG lens with IS ... turn off IS, point it at a distance object, hold the camera for a few seconds, then switch it on. You will love it!
Ken

I would really like to see a comparison of pics at slower shutter
speeds making use of it, to get an idea. I realise it would vary
from person to person depending on how good there technique is, but
examples would be great.

Cheers
Donovan

Of course, the IS is no gaurantee. The best thing is a tripod, but
I find that more often that not, the time it takes to set up a
tripod is roughly the time it takes for the shot to disappear...

The IS on my 28-135 can't handle anywhere near that without shake.
It stays sharp for an absolute maximum of 1 stop under the normal
shutter speed = 1/focal length rule.

Don't forget 300 x 1.6 = 480 mm - this at 1/60 to 1/90 is probably
asking a little too much

 

[PhilH #111039]

Have been using my 100-400IS on a monopod and have been getting great results.

I would really like to see a comparison of pics at slower shutter
speeds making use of it, to get an idea. I realise it would vary
from person to person depending on how good there technique is, but
examples would be great.

Cheers
Donovan

Of course, the IS is no gaurantee. The best thing is a tripod, but
I find that more often that not, the time it takes to set up a
tripod is roughly the time it takes for the shot to disappear...

The IS on my 28-135 can't handle anywhere near that without shake.
It stays sharp for an absolute maximum of 1 stop under the normal
shutter speed = 1/focal length rule.

Don't forget 300 x 1.6 = 480 mm - this at 1/60 to 1/90 is probably
asking a little too much

 

[Ken Rimple]

Anesthaesia:

With butterfly, as a matter of fact, at ISO 400:



Notes:

1. Used manual focus. After a while you get very used to it, and
those little suckers move waaay too fast to use AF with the
75-300 lens.

2. I suppose I could have gotten a higher F-Stop if I switched to ISO 800 or if I had a more stable platform (MONOPOD), because the depth of field is just a bit too narrow with this lens at 300mm/f/5.6.

[full EXIF info]
File: CRW_3087.tif
File size: 36.0MB
Image Serial Number: 130-3087
Camera Model: Canon EOS D60
Camera serial number: 0420300314
Firmware: Firmware Version 1.0.2
Owner: Ken Rimple
Date/Time: 2002:07:20 15:30:26
Shutter speed: 1/125 sec
Aperture: 5.6
Exposure mode: Program
Flash: Off
Metering mode: Center-weighted average
Drive mode: Single frame shooting
ISO: 100
Lens: 75.0 to 300.0 mm
Focal length: 300.0 mm
AF mode: One-shot AF
Focus point:

Image size: 3072 x 2048
Image quality: Raw
White balance: Preset
Saturation: Normal
Sharpness: Normal
Contrast: Normal
Custom Functions:
CFn 4: Tv/Av and exposure level: 1/3 stop
CFn 8: Shutter curtain sync: 2nd-curtain sync
CFn 9: Lens AF stop button Fn. Switch: AF start
CFn 10: Auto reduction of fill flash: Disabled
CFn 11: Menu button return position: Previous
CFn 12: SET button function when shooting: Change ISO speed

Hi,

I took some photos today indoors (butterfly hothouse) with my D60
and a Canon 75-300 USM III lens. I had to shoot at ISO400 due to
the lighting. My average shutter speed was between 1/60 and 1/90.
Using the lens at full zoom, I found that I got camera shake on
almost all my pictures (left that thing called a "tripod" at home!!)

I have never used an IS lens, and I would like to know if it suits
these situations. WouldI have been able to avoid camera shake with
a lens with IS ? Also, would I have been able to use ISO100
comfortably ?

Basically, what situations do you benefit in using an IS lens ?

Cheers
Donovan

--
Ken Rimple
Newtown Square, PA
Pbase portfolio: http://www.pbase.com/krimple

I want it. I want it. I want it. I want it.

-- Early Adopter (fool)

Ken Rimple
[email protected]
Newtown Square PA, USA
http://www.pbase.com/krimple ​

 

[Ken Rimple]

Whoops. Thought I hit preview and not post, then double-checked my post.

That was an ISO 100 pic. So I guess you can correct me with this statement:

Increase to ISO 400 or smaller f/stop for greater DOF...

ken

With butterfly, as a matter of fact, at ISO 400:



Notes:

1. Used manual focus. After a while you get very used to it, and
those little suckers move waaay too fast to use AF with the
75-300 lens.

2. I suppose I could have gotten a higher F-Stop if I switched to
ISO 800 or if I had a more stable platform (MONOPOD), because the
depth of field is just a bit too narrow with this lens at
300mm/f/5.6.

[full EXIF info]
File: CRW_3087.tif
File size: 36.0MB
Image Serial Number: 130-3087
Camera Model: Canon EOS D60
Camera serial number: 0420300314
Firmware: Firmware Version 1.0.2
Owner: Ken Rimple
Date/Time: 2002:07:20 15:30:26
Shutter speed: 1/125 sec
Aperture: 5.6
Exposure mode: Program
Flash: Off
Metering mode: Center-weighted average
Drive mode: Single frame shooting
ISO: 100
Lens: 75.0 to 300.0 mm
Focal length: 300.0 mm
AF mode: One-shot AF
Focus point:

Image size: 3072 x 2048
Image quality: Raw
White balance: Preset
Saturation: Normal
Sharpness: Normal
Contrast: Normal
Custom Functions:
CFn 4: Tv/Av and exposure level: 1/3 stop
CFn 8: Shutter curtain sync: 2nd-curtain sync
CFn 9: Lens AF stop button Fn. Switch: AF start
CFn 10: Auto reduction of fill flash: Disabled
CFn 11: Menu button return position: Previous
CFn 12: SET button function when shooting: Change ISO speed

Hi,

I took some photos today indoors (butterfly hothouse) with my D60
and a Canon 75-300 USM III lens. I had to shoot at ISO400 due to
the lighting. My average shutter speed was between 1/60 and 1/90.
Using the lens at full zoom, I found that I got camera shake on
almost all my pictures (left that thing called a "tripod" at home!!)

I have never used an IS lens, and I would like to know if it suits
these situations. WouldI have been able to avoid camera shake with
a lens with IS ? Also, would I have been able to use ISO100
comfortably ?

Basically, what situations do you benefit in using an IS lens ?

Cheers
Donovan

--
Ken Rimple
Newtown Square, PA
Pbase portfolio: http://www.pbase.com/krimple

I want it. I want it. I want it. I want it.

-- Early Adopter (fool)

Ken Rimple
[email protected]
Newtown Square PA, USA
http://www.pbase.com/krimple
​

--
Ken Rimple
Newtown Square, PA
Pbase portfolio: http://www.pbase.com/krimple

I want it. I want it. I want it. I want it.

-- Early Adopter (fool)

Ken Rimple
[email protected]
Newtown Square PA, USA
http://www.pbase.com/krimple ​

 

[Joo]

A 300mm lens on your D30/60 would be nearly impossible at 1/10s shutter speed, even with IS (IMO). The 300mm lens is roughly equivalent to a 480mm lens on the D30/60. Standard rule of thumb is 1/focal length for your shutter speed. This would mean you would want a something on the order of 1/500s shutter speed. 1/10s would be roughly 5-6 stops slower than 1/500s. No IS that I know of can get you 5-6 stops. IS generally claims 2 - 3 stops improvement. If you're technique is good, you might get 1 - 2 stops. This would be a total of about 3 - 5 stops.

Basically what I'm trying to say is, don't expect IS to help you if your shutter speed is 1/10s and your focal length is 300mm. You can reasonably expect to get pictures free of camera shake at around 1/100s shutter speed using a 300mm lens.

Joo

I understand that it will not freeze movement, but in most of the
shots I took, the bflies were motionless, so it wouldn't have been
a problem.

I just wanted to check that using the 300mm end of the lens, on ISO
100 at 1/10, would avoid camera shake. I take it from the replies
that it would...

Would you say that IS is as good as using a tripod at these speeds
? Is it really that good ? I'm still trying to understand how a
lens can help a shaky hand...

IS will help with camera shake but it will not freeze subject
movement which can be annoying with bflies. I would use some flash
and try to shoot a little faster say 1/125 at least

--
Michael Salzlechner
StarZen Digital Imaging
http://www.starzen.com/imaging

--

• Canon EOS D-30 & PowerShot S100
• Maybe one day I'll take a decent picture. In the meantime, I'll blame the equipment.

 

[DonCohen]

I've done a moderate amount of shooting of butterflies with the 100-400 IS and it definitely will give you a good 2 stops of latitude. It is quite effective.

At the same time, this type of shooting benefits greatly from stability. For me, the combination of a Monopod with the 100-400 mounted on the Wimberley Sidekick gives me great stability and maneuverability.

I agree with the other comments about using some flash, and getting shutter speeds a bit quicker when needed.

You can see some results here, along with a photo of the set-up:

http://www.dlcphotography.net/BF/BFFrameSet.htm

http://www.dlcphotography.net/BF2/BF2FrameSet.htm

Here's one sample from one of these galleries:



Hope this helps.

Don
http://www.dlcphotography.net

 

[Mike Flaherty]

I regularly shoot butterflies at our local zoo's butterfly house. I typically shoot with my 100-400 IS in Tv mode at 1/125th with 550EX flash. I avoid using FEL (not practical with butterflies) but am successful because i always put the fly in the dead center of the image. If I want to crop later for effect, I just shoot a little wider to allow for it. Bang away and you're good to go.

IS will help with camera shake but it will not freeze subject
movement which can be annoying with bflies. I would use some flash
and try to shoot a little faster say 1/125 at least

--
Michael Salzlechner
StarZen Digital Imaging
http://www.starzen.com/imaging

--
Mike Flaherty
http://imageevent.com/mflaherty/mikesgallery

 

[rge]

What is the effect of keeping IS on even when it is not needed?

I've done a moderate amount of shooting of butterflies with the
100-400 IS and it definitely will give you a good 2 stops of
latitude. It is quite effective.

At the same time, this type of shooting benefits greatly from
stability. For me, the combination of a Monopod with the 100-400
mounted on the Wimberley Sidekick gives me great stability and
maneuverability.

I agree with the other comments about using some flash, and getting
shutter speeds a bit quicker when needed.

You can see some results here, along with a photo of the set-up:

http://www.dlcphotography.net/BF/BFFrameSet.htm

http://www.dlcphotography.net/BF2/BF2FrameSet.htm

Here's one sample from one of these galleries:



Hope this helps.

Don
http://www.dlcphotography.net

 

[John Mason]

I only have their 1st generation IS

a 28-135IS and the 100-400L is (awesome lens)

IS only turns on when shutter button is part way pressed which is a good thing since it sucks battery pretty quickly

IS should not be used with a tripod as then the types of vibrations will try to be compensated for yet are not vibrations that need compensated for and can cause a "swaying" effect.

IS version 2 which I don't have is supposed to be smarter and know if your on a tripod or not. I would suppose you can use version 2 and leave it on all the time.

IS version 1 works great with a monopod and that does not = tripod use in the restrictions.

So on an IS lens version 1 I would leave it on unless I was using a tripod.

IS version 2 you could leave on all the time but I would still probably turn it off.

This is my understanding of it.