In-camera focus stacking question for macro

[kodachromed]

I am interested in exploring macro photography and found that only Olympus/OM SYSTEM cameras offer true in-camera focus stacking i.e the camera both brackets and merges the images internally; no need for software after shooting to merge the images.

I don't have much experience with Olympus/OM SYSTEMS and was wondering how well this feature works compared to using software like Helicon. Any advice/opinions much appreciated.

 

[gary0319]

I see you used a TG-7. I had a TG-3 but gave it to my friend before his honeymoon in the Amazon rain forest. I do miss it for swimming & heavy rain, and, judging by your photo, it looks like the IQ has dramatically improved.

Focus stacking was first added to the TG-3.

The TG-4 added RAW support, AF selection, and more macro support.

The TG-5 reduced the picture size from 16 megapixels to 12 megapixels. I believe it was claimed to do this to improve the picture quality. I have the TG-5, but I don't use it much.

The TG-6 added a higher resolution LCD, more macro modes, including focus bracketing, and improvements to reduce ghosting and flare.

Dpreview doesn't say much what the TG-7 adds, except I think one feature is switching to USB C so it can continue to be sold in Europe.

There is also a new Construction scene mode with the TG7, but I’ve not used it. Otherwise the TG7 is basically the same (with the USB C, as you mentioned). I was going to buy the TG6 but then the price of the TG7 dropped on a day I went to my dealer, so I bought it instead. It has pretty much stayed at that $499 price since.

 

[Boo]

I use the in-camera focus stacking routinely in shooting flowers at botanical gardens. I used to use Halicon but once I got the hang of the in-camera version I let Halicon lapse.

In addition to what others have noted, I would add that the in-camera image alignment prior to the stacking, is pretty finicky so keeping the camera still during the shot sequence is paramount. It will adjust for some minor movement in the same focal plane, but any movement for and/or aft of the focal plane gets a ghosted image. This takes some practice and faster shutter speeds are your friend here. Of course I’m talking about handheld.

Even the lowly OM TG7 compact does a decent job of in-camera focus stacking. This is an 8 shot stack from the TG7.

Gary, I'd like to focus stack or bracket more frequently than I do but don't always have a tripod or don't want to bother setting it up.

Is focus stacking reliable [fairly steadily] handheld with ~E-M1 III level IBIS?

Focus bracketing?

I see you used a TG-7. I had a TG-3 but gave it to my friend before his honeymoon in the Amazon rain forest. I do miss it for swimming & heavy rain, and, judging by your photo, it looks like the IQ has dramatically improved.

First off, all my focus stacking is handheld, even with the TG7 which doesn’t have the best image stabilization. So, your E-M1 III should be fine. Just keep the shutter speed up and use good handholding techniques and it works well.

Just to add to that - 2 things that I've found to help me - set a 2 second countdown timer to taking a stack or bracket sequence - gives time to fire the shutter then establish a good firm grip and brace for the sequence. Secondly, where a tripod isn't practical, I've tried a number of techniques to stabilise the camera, from a bean bag, monopod or just a stick you can brace between one thigh and the arch of the other foot, then brace the camera against the stick. My current favourite is the little Manfrotto Pixi tripod - with the legs together it makes a decent handle for the camera and I can often brace it against a nearby body part.

Even with decent shutter speed, for me, it's all too easy to sway, altering the distance from the subject, which can ruin a sequence. I need whole body (mine, not the camera) IS really, the camera can only help so much!

I’ve had my TG7 for about a year and it always amazes me. It’s become an almost permanent side kick camera when out with my “real” cameras….. and of course does a great job on its own. The sensor is still only 12 mpx, but takes readily to uprezing for good size printing. I have entered three 12x16 prints from cropped and uprezed TG7 prints for our annual club exhibition and they are just fine. Uprezed and printed at 300 dpi.

I've now given up on my TG-7 - I just didn't bond with it and found myself picking up other cameras instead. I've traded it towards a Sony RX100VII - which I've had for less than 24 hours and already like significantly better - although different beast, I realise. I will miss the close up capabilities of the TG-7 and the LED ring light was genius.

 

[Art_P]

I have found in camera stacking handy for quick shots in the field on windless days.

It does not work on a breezy day unless you can keep the subject and camera still. (Wind baffle, brace subject)

For extreme macro requiring dozens or hundreds of shots, you'll want a tripod, indoors, lots of light and a photo stacking program.

 

[Sam Bennett]

I use the in-camera focus stacking routinely in shooting flowers at botanical gardens. I used to use Halicon but once I got the hang of the in-camera version I let Halicon lapse.

In addition to what others have noted, I would add that the in-camera image alignment prior to the stacking, is pretty finicky so keeping the camera still during the shot sequence is paramount. It will adjust for some minor movement in the same focal plane, but any movement for and/or aft of the focal plane gets a ghosted image. This takes some practice and faster shutter speeds are your friend here. Of course I’m talking about handheld.

Even the lowly OM TG7 compact does a decent job of in-camera focus stacking. This is an 8 shot stack from the TG7.

Gary, I'd like to focus stack or bracket more frequently than I do but don't always have a tripod or don't want to bother setting it up.

Is focus stacking reliable [fairly steadily] handheld with ~E-M1 III level IBIS?

Focus bracketing?

I see you used a TG-7. I had a TG-3 but gave it to my friend before his honeymoon in the Amazon rain forest. I do miss it for swimming & heavy rain, and, judging by your photo, it looks like the IQ has dramatically improved.

First off, all my focus stacking is handheld, even with the TG7 which doesn’t have the best image stabilization. So, your E-M1 III should be fine. Just keep the shutter speed up and use good handholding techniques and it works well.

Just to add to that - 2 things that I've found to help me - set a 2 second countdown timer to taking a stack or bracket sequence - gives time to fire the shutter then establish a good firm grip and brace for the sequence.

This sounds like a great idea, but I don’t see that option on my OM-3 when I’m in stacking mode. Am I missing something? Haven’t tried the OM-1 yet.

Secondly, where a tripod isn't practical, I've tried a number of techniques to stabilise the camera, from a bean bag, monopod or just a stick you can brace between one thigh and the arch of the other foot, then brace the camera against the stick. My current favourite is the little Manfrotto Pixi tripod - with the legs together it makes a decent handle for the camera and I can often brace it against a nearby body part.

Even with decent shutter speed, for me, it's all too easy to sway, altering the distance from the subject, which can ruin a sequence. I need whole body (mine, not the camera) IS really, the camera can only help so much!

I’ve had my TG7 for about a year and it always amazes me. It’s become an almost permanent side kick camera when out with my “real” cameras….. and of course does a great job on its own. The sensor is still only 12 mpx, but takes readily to uprezing for good size printing. I have entered three 12x16 prints from cropped and uprezed TG7 prints for our annual club exhibition and they are just fine. Uprezed and printed at 300 dpi.

I've now given up on my TG-7 - I just didn't bond with it and found myself picking up other cameras instead. I've traded it towards a Sony RX100VII - which I've had for less than 24 hours and already like significantly better - although different beast, I realise. I will miss the close up capabilities of the TG-7 and the LED ring light was genius.

 

[Boo]

I use the in-camera focus stacking routinely in shooting flowers at botanical gardens. I used to use Halicon but once I got the hang of the in-camera version I let Halicon lapse.

In addition to what others have noted, I would add that the in-camera image alignment prior to the stacking, is pretty finicky so keeping the camera still during the shot sequence is paramount. It will adjust for some minor movement in the same focal plane, but any movement for and/or aft of the focal plane gets a ghosted image. This takes some practice and faster shutter speeds are your friend here. Of course I’m talking about handheld.

Even the lowly OM TG7 compact does a decent job of in-camera focus stacking. This is an 8 shot stack from the TG7.

Gary, I'd like to focus stack or bracket more frequently than I do but don't always have a tripod or don't want to bother setting it up.

Is focus stacking reliable [fairly steadily] handheld with ~E-M1 III level IBIS?

Focus bracketing?

I see you used a TG-7. I had a TG-3 but gave it to my friend before his honeymoon in the Amazon rain forest. I do miss it for swimming & heavy rain, and, judging by your photo, it looks like the IQ has dramatically improved.

First off, all my focus stacking is handheld, even with the TG7 which doesn’t have the best image stabilization. So, your E-M1 III should be fine. Just keep the shutter speed up and use good handholding techniques and it works well.

Just to add to that - 2 things that I've found to help me - set a 2 second countdown timer to taking a stack or bracket sequence - gives time to fire the shutter then establish a good firm grip and brace for the sequence.

This sounds like a great idea, but I don’t see that option on my OM-3 when I’m in stacking mode. Am I missing something? Haven’t tried the OM-1 yet.

Apologies, I was thinking about the TG-7 as I was posting, where I could do that. I just double checked my E-M10 and you can't seemingly set the timer as well as a bracketing sequence, because they're both different drive modes - presumably the OM-1 and 3 will be the same. I do use the delay when I use my single macro frame MySet. Sorry, I should have engaged my brain and been more specific.

 

[Sam Bennett]

I use the in-camera focus stacking routinely in shooting flowers at botanical gardens. I used to use Halicon but once I got the hang of the in-camera version I let Halicon lapse.

In addition to what others have noted, I would add that the in-camera image alignment prior to the stacking, is pretty finicky so keeping the camera still during the shot sequence is paramount. It will adjust for some minor movement in the same focal plane, but any movement for and/or aft of the focal plane gets a ghosted image. This takes some practice and faster shutter speeds are your friend here. Of course I’m talking about handheld.

Even the lowly OM TG7 compact does a decent job of in-camera focus stacking. This is an 8 shot stack from the TG7.

Gary, I'd like to focus stack or bracket more frequently than I do but don't always have a tripod or don't want to bother setting it up.

Is focus stacking reliable [fairly steadily] handheld with ~E-M1 III level IBIS?

Focus bracketing?

I see you used a TG-7. I had a TG-3 but gave it to my friend before his honeymoon in the Amazon rain forest. I do miss it for swimming & heavy rain, and, judging by your photo, it looks like the IQ has dramatically improved.

First off, all my focus stacking is handheld, even with the TG7 which doesn’t have the best image stabilization. So, your E-M1 III should be fine. Just keep the shutter speed up and use good handholding techniques and it works well.

Just to add to that - 2 things that I've found to help me - set a 2 second countdown timer to taking a stack or bracket sequence - gives time to fire the shutter then establish a good firm grip and brace for the sequence.

This sounds like a great idea, but I don’t see that option on my OM-3 when I’m in stacking mode. Am I missing something? Haven’t tried the OM-1 yet.

Apologies, I was thinking about the TG-7 as I was posting, where I could do that. I just double checked my E-M10 and you can't seemingly set the timer as well as a bracketing sequence, because they're both different drive modes - presumably the OM-1 and 3 will be the same. I do use the delay when I use my single macro frame MySet. Sorry, I should have engaged my brain and been more specific.

Darn it! That would have been pretty sweet!

 

[David5833]

I don't have an OM-3, but look for "Silent Settings". You can set "Waiting Time" to give you a delay before the first shot. Be sure to set it back to zero after your stacking so you don't have a delay before normal shooting.

 

[gary0319]

I don't have an OM-3, but look for "Silent Settings". You can set "Waiting Time" to give you a delay before the first shot. Be sure to set it back to zero after your stacking so you don't have a delay before normal shooting.

Wow! That works. Great tip, thanks, David

 

[Sam Bennett]

I don't have an OM-3, but look for "Silent Settings". You can set "Waiting Time" to give you a delay before the first shot. Be sure to set it back to zero after your stacking so you don't have a delay before normal shooting.

Oh nice, that works - it’s on Page 7 of the “Camera 1” menu at the bottom of anyone’s looking. Thankfully I’ve got my macro settings on a Custom Setting so changing it there doesn’t affect anything else!

 

[daddyo]

I use it very often with amazingly good results. As others have said, too much subject or camera movement will cause some 'ghosting' on edges.

Here is a typical example of a successful in-camera focus stack:







--
Blessings,
Greg

Galleries by Greg McCroskery

www.pbase.com

 

[Emerald Slick]

As the others has mentioned, there are only a handful of Olympus lenses are compatible with in-camera stacking. I have two lenses that are compatible, 12-40mm F2.8 and 100-400mm F5-F6.5. Oddly, the 100-400 got used a lot for shooting flowers and bugs due to high magnification and very close focus capabilities.

 

[Michael Meissner]

As the others has mentioned, there are only a handful of Olympus lenses are compatible with in-camera stacking. I have two lenses that are compatible, 12-40mm F2.8 and 100-400mm F5-F6.5. Oddly, the 100-400 got used a lot for shooting flowers and bugs due to high magnification and very close focus capabilities.

If you have certain models of Olympus cameras (E-m10 mark II, E-m1 mark I/II/III, E-m5 mark II/II), there were unofficial firmware modifications that somebody did that removed the 30 minute video record limit, and allowed any micro 4/3rds auto focus lens to do focus stacking.

Unfortunately, the original poster hasn't posted in years. There was a second poster who updated the patches, but that person also hasn't posted in years. I don't know if the modified firmware still exists.

Here is the thread on mu-43.com:

• https://www.mu-43.com/threads/modified-firmware-looking-for-users.99804/

 

[Asherax]

As the others has mentioned, there are only a handful of Olympus lenses are compatible with in-camera stacking. I have two lenses that are compatible, 12-40mm F2.8 and 100-400mm F5-F6.5. Oddly, the 100-400 got used a lot for shooting flowers and bugs due to high magnification and very close focus capabilities.

If you have certain models of Olympus cameras (E-m10 mark II, E-m1 mark I/II/III, E-m5 mark II/II), there were unofficial firmware modifications that somebody did that removed the 30 minute video record limit, and allowed any micro 4/3rds auto focus lens to do focus stacking.

Unfortunately, the original poster hasn't posted in years. There was a second poster who updated the patches, but that person also hasn't posted in years. I don't know if the modified firmware still exists.

Here is the thread on mu-43.com:

• https://www.mu-43.com/threads/modified-firmware-looking-for-users.99804/

This is exactly what I did Michael. I use an E-M1.1 with hacked firmware, that allows me to focus stack with my 45mm f1.8 with extension tubes and MCON-P02 attached... it has been a revelation!







Yes.... that is Pollen!

--
Photography is poetry made visible; it is the art of painting with light!

 

[phenix jc]

Yes it's only a marketing limitation. I've hacked my EM-1.1 and it works flawlessly with all the AF m43 lens for years.

I haven't hacked my EM-1.2 because it was my main m43 body until now. Maybe I'll try, as I've a recent OM-1.

 

[Michael Meissner]

This is exactly what I did Michael. I use an E-M1.1 with hacked firmware, that allows me to focus stack with my 45mm f1.8 with extension tubes and MCON-P02 attached... it has been a revelation!

In 2021, I bought an E-m1 mark II as Olympus was reducing the price to clear the shelves. Before the plaque years, I had been doing a lot of video work to record renaissance faire and theater performers, and at times, I would need more than 30 minute record times. At the time, I used the Panasonic G85 for video.

I figured if I started needing longer record times again, I could use the modified firmware. In fact, I kept two SD cards, one of which had the current official firmware, and the other had the last version of the modified firmware. I could easily switch between the firmware versions. Given the last modified firmware was 3.6 and the official firmware is 3.7, it is fairly easy to check what firmware I have loaded in the camera.

However, I never needed to record long videos after that (the renaissance faire directors burned out and closed the faire in 2019, and the theater group hasn't recovered from COVID enough that they needed me to record their videos). In 2022, I picked up my OM-1 mark I which doesn't have a video record limit, so I don't need to use the firmware modification.

 

[Drew Morris]

I'm just starting to learn in-camera stacking on my OM-1 m2. I typically just take the RAW photos into Helicon Focus. Have shot a few sequences which I stacked in-camera and was pleased with the output. I'll try to run a test later today and post.