Image Quality Issues

[GARN]

Hi Guys,

I have been a XT-2 guy for a while but after seeing the stellar image quality of the A73, I bit the bullet and purchased one yesterday. I went what I thought was all out to get the best pairing I could so I also purchased the G Master glass in the form of the 24-70 2.8.

That combo set me back a little over 4000.00 big ones compared to the I got everything set up and went to the neighborhood lake and back deck to take some shots. That’s kinda my simple out of the camera testing ground.

Well, I don’t know what’s wrong but I am not getting any improvement with the Sony and VERY expensive lens. The Fuji XT-2 produces as good or better looking pictures which should not be the case. Not even close according to what I have read and seen online.

I know this setup is a truly professional setup and it should be delivering top notch photos with stunning color even in Auto mode. That’s the same Jose I used in the Fuji and it’s better hands down for some reason.

So, What the heck am I doing wrong? I have tried Manual, Auto, Af-C, AF-S, etc...It can’t even take a sharp photo in the bedroom of the TV in moderate light. This thing should be killing that type of situation. My IPhone X handled the scene better.

I am including a couple photos of the back yard. Please read the description. One from the Fuji and one from the Sony. Plus, the Fuji one of the backyard was with a Samyang I was playing with to boot.

Please note..I am not trashing this camera.I know it’s a beast but something isn’t right. It looks washed out comparatively. Also, the image on my yard with the Samyang won’t show true stats as it does not communicate with the camera due to being third party.

Help..


Sony. Focus is pretty bad.


Fuji with Samyang..Look close at focus


Fuji XT-2


Fuji XT-2


Fuji XT-2


Sony A73


Sony A73


Sony A73

 

[Austinian]

Look at the data for each backyard image:

"Sony. Focus is pretty bad.

Camera:SONY ILCE-7M324 mm, 1/320 sec, f/2.8, ISO 125, +0.7 EV

1,616 × 1,080 (1.7 MP)"

"Fuji with Samyang..Look close at focus

Camera:FUJIFILM X-T250 mm, 1/80 sec, ISO 800

6,000 × 4,000 (24 MP)"

 

[BBQue]

Look at the data for each backyard image:

"Sony. Focus is pretty bad.

Camera:SONY ILCE-7M324 mm, 1/320 sec, f/2.8, ISO 125, +0.7 EV

1,616 × 1,080 (1.7 MP)"

"Fuji with Samyang..Look close at focus

Camera:FUJIFILM X-T250 mm, 1/80 sec, ISO 800

6,000 × 4,000 (24 MP)"

Looking just at the first pair of images, I see one (SONY) well exposed with plenty of shadow details (and the highlights easily recoverable from the raws and the other (FUJI) over contrasty with loss of both shadows and highlights. No doubt which is the better one!

FF has much shallower DOF than smaller sensors, which may take some getting used to when comparing sharpness side by side images.

"So, What the heck am I doing wrong? I have tried Manual, Auto, Af-C, AF-S, etc...It can’t even take a sharp photo in the bedroom of the TV in moderate light. This thing should be killing that type of situation. My IPhone X handled the scene better."

If that is really the case, then it's either a severe case of user error, or he really got a non-functional lemon

 

[Clayton1985]

I don't think the problem is your equipment, it is likely your understanding of photography basics and to a lesser degree how to use your specific equipment. Even though you'll get some helpful info here my suggestion is to go to other websites online that offer very detailed training or get a few books and start there.

 

[GARN]

Ha! I do not take any offense to that but in my defense, I’ve been using XT-1 and XT-2’s for years. I understand the basics of a camera. However, I’ve never struggled this much to take clear pictures. I would expect that even on intelligent mode or auto this advanced of a camera would produce a pretty stellar image. My skills and photography are lacking to be sure. LOL, however, Not to this degree.

Now, I I am currently sitting out on the deck and was reviewing the data. I also noticed the resolution and I thought that could be the problem. Currently, I have it set to RAW and Fine .jpg 24..I’m going into change a couple things and will report back.

Thanks!

 

[GARN]

Ok..Here is what I have learned tonight.

1. If you use your iPad and LR CC, your going to only be able to download the sample file. That’s why the image resolution was so small. In LR Classic, I downloaded the FULL FILE and it looks much better when using the “scene” setting.

2. This camera is not nearly as user friendly as an XT-2. It may be more powerful in the hands of an expert but us hobbyist need to be ready for a bit of a learning curve. I am not one to give up so I will study the manual in detail.

3. It may be that the Fuji XT-2 Just has supurb out of camera pics. The color, contrast, focus, etc are just awesome. (It really does) The Sony and this GM lens should definitely be able to match the Fuji but it might be more of a post processing thing. I am not sure which I prefer but after trying “scene” on the Sony with only a tad of light tonight, I am a bit more encouraged. We will see what tomorrow’s testing brings.

thanks!

 

[BBQue]

Ok..Here is what I have learned tonight.

1. If you use your iPad and LR CC, your going to only be able to download the sample file. That’s why the image resolution was so small. In LR Classic, I downloaded the FULL FILE and it looks much better when using the “scene” setting.

Great!

2. This camera is not nearly as user friendly as an XT-2. It may be more powerful in the hands of an expert but us hobbyist need to be ready for a bit of a learning curve. I am not one to give up so I will study the manual in detail.

The manual is pretty useless. Read the Gary Friedman guide instead! Yes, this camera has a bit of a learning curve, but it is very much possible (in an afternoon or so) to get the hang of it. (Probably easier for a hobbyist, cause you don't need the most advanced features and you can take your time. You don't need a flawless performance next weekend for your first wedding ).

3. It may be that the Fuji XT-2 Just has superb out of camera pics. The color, contrast, focus, etc are just awesome.

So does the Sony! Something is seriously wrong with the settings you used. Image #6 in your set of photos is seriously desaturated. Maybe you accidentally changed the CREATIVE STYLE? Set it to Standard or Vivid. Every style can also be further fine tuned according to taste. The Sony JPGs nowadays are just as good as Fuji's (this was not always the case, with the earlier generations Fuji did have an edge here). AF focus performance: the Sony has the clear better performance. If you don't get this in your images, then either you are doing something wrong, or you got a "lemon", like I said before. Therefore you should do some rigorous testing during the 30 day return period, just to make sure it is not you.

(It really does) The Sony and this GM lens should definitely be able to match the Fuji but it might be more of a post processing thing.

Nope, you should get superb JPGs right out of box. Maybe do a camera factory reset, then use all AUTO mode as a starting point.

I am not sure which I prefer but after trying “scene” on the Sony with only a tad of light tonight, I am a bit more encouraged. We will see what tomorrow’s testing brings.

Post processing is one thing, but you should be able to get spectacularly good JPGs right out of camera. Only then should you get into post processing (with its own very steep learning curve) to improve on the results. Otherwise your pp efforts may simply mask errors.

GOOD LUCK! You certainly are on the right path!

PS: Try Capture One instead LR. It's made for Sony and the default profiles are nice! It als is quicker and more powerful. And it is free (for Sony only).

 

[Austinian]

Ok..Here is what I have learned tonight.

1. If you use your iPad and LR CC, your going to only be able to download the sample file. That’s why the image resolution was so small. In LR Classic, I downloaded the FULL FILE and it looks much better when using the “scene” setting.

Right.

2. This camera is not nearly as user friendly as an XT-2. It may be more powerful in the hands of an expert but us hobbyist need to be ready for a bit of a learning curve. I am not one to give up so I will study the manual in detail.

At least on the A7RIII, I think the Sony Help Guide sometimes does a better job of explaining things than the manual.

For the A7III:

RefLib

3. It may be that the Fuji XT-2 Just has supurb out of camera pics. The color, contrast, focus, etc are just awesome. (It really does) The Sony and this GM lens should definitely be able to match the Fuji but it might be more of a post processing thing. I am not sure which I prefer but after trying “scene” on the Sony with only a tad of light tonight, I am a bit more encouraged. We will see what tomorrow’s testing brings.

thanks!

I wouldn't be too quick to judge the Sony's merits until you've taken the time to gain more understanding of how it works and what settings to use.

Also, for some images the full-frame advantages will be less obvious than others. I was happy for years with an APS-C sensor camera.

 

[GARN]

Awesome advice guys...Thanks for the super detailed response and I’m going to go reset the camera and do some Comparison shots. I took a couple on manual mode. Details are in the pictures. I try to make them as close as possible.

I’m going to do a reset and start a new. I guess I am fighting with my expectations. This setup was 2400.00 more dollars and I was expecting a pretty dramatic difference in quality.


Fuji XT-2


Sony A73

 

[mujana]

Look at the data for each backyard image:

"Sony. Focus is pretty bad.

Camera:SONY ILCE-7M324 mm, 1/320 sec, f/2.8, ISO 125, +0.7 EV

1,616 × 1,080 (1.7 MP)"

"Fuji with Samyang..Look close at focus

Camera:FUJIFILM X-T250 mm, 1/80 sec, ISO 800

6,000 × 4,000 (24 MP)"

Looking just at the first pair of images, I see one (SONY) well exposed with plenty of shadow details (and the highlights easily recoverable from the raws and the other (FUJI) over contrasty with loss of both shadows and highlights. No doubt which is the better one!

FF has much shallower DOF than smaller sensors, which may take some getting used to when comparing sharpness side by side images.

"So, What the heck am I doing wrong? I have tried Manual, Auto, Af-C, AF-S, etc...It can’t even take a sharp photo in the bedroom of the TV in moderate light. This thing should be killing that type of situation. My IPhone X handled the scene better."

If that is really the case, then it's either a severe case of user error, or he really got a non-functional lemon

I came from m4/3 (Olympus). Can only agree 100% with this statement:

"FF has much shallower DOF than smaller sensors, which may take some getting used to when comparing sharpness side by side images."

I still find myself using f1.8 or f2.8, where I sould have used f5.6 or even go to something like f8.0. I never even used f8.0 at all with my Olympus gear.

 

[Labe]

Awesome advice guys...Thanks for the super detailed response and I’m going to go reset the camera and do some Comparison shots. I took a couple on manual mode. Details are in the pictures. I try to make them as close as possible.

I’m going to do a reset and start a new. I guess I am fighting with my expectations. This setup was 2400.00 more dollars and I was expecting a pretty dramatic difference in quality.


Fuji XT-2


Sony A73

well as you can see the sony image is much brighter and allowing more detail to show in the shadow area of the room through the doorway.

there is also less glowing from around the light in the ceiling.

But as you have used f2.8 on a full frame you will have a softer image due to shallow depth of field .

try setting f8 1/60 and auto iso . if using jpegs sooc also select vivid and turn auto DRO on see what you get .

you have just got so used to the Fuji way.

I on the other hand have used sony`s for so long my new xt20 is giving me headaches lol.

You just need to have a play around . You can always just hit reset .

 

[Higgins2002]

Awesome advice guys...Thanks for the super detailed response and I’m going to go reset the camera and do some Comparison shots. I took a couple on manual mode. Details are in the pictures. I try to make them as close as possible.

I’m going to do a reset and start a new. I guess I am fighting with my expectations. This setup was 2400.00 more dollars and I was expecting a pretty dramatic difference in quality.


Fuji XT-2


Sony A73

Modern sensors are very good at base iso so you don't get that wow factor you are after when shooting at iso 100 and comparing APS-C and FF.



I use FF for :

1. shallow DOF

2. Use higher iso to get faster shutterspeed with slow lenses like Sigma100-400 and 150-600 f5-6.3 with less noise.

ex. 600mm 1/2000 , F8 , iso 6400 is a lot better on FF than APS-C

 

[W3PYF]

“1. If you use your iPad and LR CC, your going to only be able to download the sample file. That’s why the image resolution was so small. In LR Classic, I downloaded the FULL FILE and it looks much better when using the “scene” setting.”

That’s not correct. I routinely shoot my A7III with raw/jpeg, import the images into Lightroom CC for the iPad into my iPad Pro 9.7, and it handles the raw files just fine:









Lightroom CC iPad even shows which images are “RAW” and which are jpeg only (e.g. those shot HDR).

Check to make sure you have LR iPad set up properly. It surely loads the raw ARW files just fine.

 

[BBQue]

GREAT WORK !!! The horses make you look twice. What lens did you use for all these photos?

 

[engbert]

Awesome advice guys...Thanks for the super detailed response and I’m going to go reset the camera and do some Comparison shots. I took a couple on manual mode. Details are in the pictures. I try to make them as close as possible.

I’m going to do a reset and start a new. I guess I am fighting with my expectations. This setup was 2400.00 more dollars and I was expecting a pretty dramatic difference in quality.


Fuji XT-2


Sony A73

It would be a good idea to download a Depth of Field calculator for your phone or PC. This would let you better understand how shallow DOF can be on a FF camera with a fairly wide aperture. You also get the hyperfocal distance, which is the focus distance at which everything beyond is in focus for that lens at that aperture.

I expect you used a tripod for these pix, but if not you should. Most of the time you do not need a tripod for these cameras, with OSS and IBIS. But if you are trying to find out if there is something wrong with your gear you always should. Just eliminates one issue.

These cameras do presume a bit of knowledge of photography, but it is not rocket science. You will easily learn it, And there are tutorials on YouTube if needed. Check out the Northrups' channel. Buy their book. You will be richly rewarded for the effort.

--

bertrammm

Explore bertrammm’s 542 photos on Flickr!

www.flickr.com

 

[BBQue]

It would be a good idea to download a Depth of Field calculator for your phone or PC. This would let you better understand how shallow DOF can be on a FF camera with a fairly wide aperture. You also get the hyperfocal distance, which is the focus distance at which everything beyond is in focus for that lens at that aperture.

YES!

And it should be pointed out that these DOF calculators are based on film. With today's high-res sensors DOF is even shallower (when viewed critically).

 

[W3PYF]

GREAT WORK !!! The horses make you look twice. What lens did you use for all these photos?

Thanks for the coment!

First landscape: Canon FD 24mm f2 @ f8 on a dumb adapter (Monument Valley, near “Totem”)

Horse: 35mm f1.4 Summilux-M, probably at f5.6 on dumb adapter, on Monument Valley road near “The Muffins”

Long shot: Canon FD 135mm f2.8, probably f5.6-f8 on dumb adapter, Monument Valley, near Totem

Trees/stream: 35mm f1.4 Summilux-M, probably f8-11 (was very bright) on dumb adapter.

Ordinarily I shoot these lenses on my TechArt Pro AF adapter, but when I am shooting landscapes, I usually default to MF because I believe I can focus more precisely.

I adore the Summilux.

If you like horses, here are others with the 55-210mm on my A6000, also from raw on my iPad running Lightroom CC iPad:

 

[jimkohn]

This may be a stupid question, sort of like tech support asking “are you sure it’s plugged in?” But how are you transferring the images from your camera to your iPad? If you’re doing anything other than physically taking the sd card out of the camera and inserting it into your device, try doing that. I (stupidly) had that issue with my first Sony camera when I tried using their app. All my images looked crappy until I realized that the file sizes were really small which led me to realize that by default the app was set to transfer tiny little files. When I reset it to download full resolution files all was well. Just checking the simple stuff to eliminate it. I’m confident that you’ll find an answer and love your new gear.

 

[BBQue]

Great work, thanks for sharing this. I adore the 35mm Summilux, but could not afford one. Do you have any issues with corner smearing? Or was that only with the earliest Sony FF camera bodies?

 

[W3PYF]

Great work, thanks for sharing this. I adore the 35mm Summilux, but could not afford one. Do you have any issues with corner smearing? Or was that only with the earliest Sony FF camera bodies?

In 1984, while on a layover in Frankfurt on my way to Tokyo, I saw a used Summilux in the window of a store just as the owner was pulling down the steel shutter for the night. I quickly figured out the dollar-Deutschmark exchange as $325, and bought it for my 1982 M4P. The first time I used it, I shot it wide open, and was aghast when the prints looked all hazy. I subsequently learned that the haze mostly disappeared by f2 and was 99% gone by f2.8.

As the digital era dawned, the Leica and my 3 M mounts languished until I accidentally saw an ad for an NEX-6 in 2013. I carried the lens to B&H, put it on a dumb adapter, and after a few test shots with the NEX-6 in the store, I was hooked on the camera and Sony’s EVF. A year later, I bought an A7, and that ended my decade with Nikon DSLRs.

I bought an FE 35mm f2.8 for the A7 because shooting MF was too slow for a family wedding I agreed to back-up shoot. When the TechArt Pro came out, I bought one for my A7II, and when I got my A7III, I bought a second TechArt - by that time, I was totally hooked on AF-ing all my M mounts and FD mounts from my pre-Nikon DSLR life (like many Canon users, I was infuriated by Canon going EOS, orphaning my lovely FD lenses).

The Tamron 28-75mm RXD is just the second FE mount lens I’ve bought. And I have to admit, its quality at f2.8 is very, very close to the best of my M mount and FD primes. But the Summilux on a TechArt Pro remains my basic “lens cap.” 37 years later, that Summilux remains stellar. It’s actually smaller on the TechArt than my small FE 35/2.8.

The only negative - I need to keep the Summilux insured for $2000 - the absurd price to which collectors have driven up that old lens.