As I type this, you've received about a dozen replies.
This message from me speaks to the question of whether you should buy a couple more V1 Pro flash units, or a couple of AD200 flash units, or some other flash units, to provide additional fill, background light, big room coverage, etc.
BUDGET: My comments below are based on mid-range budgets. No Profoto. No cheap Chinese nameless flashes or Amazon specials.
GUIDE NUMBERS: Thses are complicated and confusing, because there are many different guide numbers for each flash, depending on ISO and angle of the flash. So to compare guide numbers supplied by manufacturers, You need to know what parameters they used to calculate what they say. i.e. one number may be based on ISO 100 and 50mm coverage (the old standard) and another flash unit based on ISO 400 at 200mm coverage.
The guide numbers are calculated for distance in feet, and distance in meters. The difference in numbers is simply multiplying or dividing by 3. A 110 feet guide number is a 40 meter guide number. (3 x 40 is 120, which is close enough to 110 to work)
AN ASIDE: To use a guide number when the flash is pointed toward the subject, divide the guide number by the distance to the subject and set the result as your aperture.
An Imperial guide number of 110 divided by a 10 foot distance is f/11.
POWER REQUIRED: It is very rare that a photographer "needs" maximum power. You can move the flash closer, or open the aperture or increase the ISO or wait a second or two longer between shots to allow fuller recharging. Or change a light modifyer; replace a whie umbrells with a silver one, for instance.
That said, more power means smaller aperures and lower ISOs mean (maybe, but it is hard to tell) better picture quality. Smaller apertures meaaan greater depth of field, as long as you have enough lighting units to evenly illuminate the whold scene.
FLASH UNIT SHAPE: There are currently tow main styles. The speedlight, which fits easily on top of the camera or on a lightstand, and has a head that bends and twists. The V1Pro in your case. Most speedlights are battery-power, and lithium batteries are great/
And the monolight, which may be powered from a wall or by, in some cases battery, and does not fit easily on top of the camera. The AD100 Tug mentioned is a great, small, powerful enough usually, battery powered monolight that usually needs a stand.
YOU DECIDE: There are advantages to both styles. The AD200 is sort of a hybrid.
ME: I use ol;d wall-powered Dynalite pack-and-head systems, and to Godox speedlights. Next purchase will probably be a Godox AD100.
BAK