frontal_lobe
Leading Member
I started off with using Jpegs when I bought my D70 about 3 years ago. Since then I gradually transitioned to using RAW, to the point that for about the last year I've adopted an all-RAW workflow.
I ran a comparison of the same files 'developed' in NX, Capture One and Adobe Camera Raw. All three do a fine job, but by a whisker in each case my preference was for the files from NX. NX also boats a bunch of really great tools - the U-point colour/brightness/contrast management is excellent, adequate built-in noise reduction (prob not as good as Noiseware etc, but plenty good enough for the very occasional use I make of it), levelsl/curves, sharpening etc. The only routine tool I miss from Photoshop is the spot healer for dust bunnies - but since I've bought a rocket blower even they are not much of an issue. The U-point tricks pretty much let me get away with local adjustments that I would otherwise have to apply through layer masks in Photoshop - and that usually takes a lot more time.
Once you've got NX set up, it is actually no more effort for well exposed 'normal' RAW images getting to say a 800pixel wide JPG to put up on a web site or to prepare a file for a standard print than using an all-JPG workflow. I now have a bunch of presets that I've developed or taken from Jason Odell's site that with a single click will apply sharpening/colour profile/resizing to my taste. No different than I'd have to do with JPG.
One more thing - about NX being buggy. I run the latest verion (1.2) on a Macbook Pro - I've not had any problems at all.
But the advantage of using RAW really comes out if you either have a picture where you've got the exposure off by anything up to a stop or so, or where you want to bring out the shadow detail, for instance. Whether you use ACR, C1 or NX a RAW file will help you out in a way that a JPG can't. With RAW you have access to pretty much all 12 bits of data recorded by the sensor. JPG uses a standard algorithm to convert those 12 bits to 8 bit - that is fine for many purposes, but if you've messed up the exposure, or just want to recover some detail, you may have lost the 4 bits of information that would help you out.
I strongly recommend getting demo versions of the software you like the look of and giving it a go.
HTH,
Anthony.
--
http://www.pbase.com/anthony
I ran a comparison of the same files 'developed' in NX, Capture One and Adobe Camera Raw. All three do a fine job, but by a whisker in each case my preference was for the files from NX. NX also boats a bunch of really great tools - the U-point colour/brightness/contrast management is excellent, adequate built-in noise reduction (prob not as good as Noiseware etc, but plenty good enough for the very occasional use I make of it), levelsl/curves, sharpening etc. The only routine tool I miss from Photoshop is the spot healer for dust bunnies - but since I've bought a rocket blower even they are not much of an issue. The U-point tricks pretty much let me get away with local adjustments that I would otherwise have to apply through layer masks in Photoshop - and that usually takes a lot more time.
Once you've got NX set up, it is actually no more effort for well exposed 'normal' RAW images getting to say a 800pixel wide JPG to put up on a web site or to prepare a file for a standard print than using an all-JPG workflow. I now have a bunch of presets that I've developed or taken from Jason Odell's site that with a single click will apply sharpening/colour profile/resizing to my taste. No different than I'd have to do with JPG.
One more thing - about NX being buggy. I run the latest verion (1.2) on a Macbook Pro - I've not had any problems at all.
But the advantage of using RAW really comes out if you either have a picture where you've got the exposure off by anything up to a stop or so, or where you want to bring out the shadow detail, for instance. Whether you use ACR, C1 or NX a RAW file will help you out in a way that a JPG can't. With RAW you have access to pretty much all 12 bits of data recorded by the sensor. JPG uses a standard algorithm to convert those 12 bits to 8 bit - that is fine for many purposes, but if you've messed up the exposure, or just want to recover some detail, you may have lost the 4 bits of information that would help you out.
I strongly recommend getting demo versions of the software you like the look of and giving it a go.
HTH,
Anthony.
--
http://www.pbase.com/anthony