Gamestheory
Active member
Yes, someone i spoke to over the weekend also suggested just shooting in RAW.
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Don't you always object when you see an outdoor scene in a movie, and it's obvious that just out of shot of the camera, there's a gaffer bouncing a huge arc light against an umbrella? You see it time and tme again. It's obvious how sunlight is modelling the rest of the landscape, but just on the faces of the actors in shot there's this flat warm glow. Horrible - and as bad as actors wearing blanks in their spectacles. You can do both, and they might help the shot, but they don't look convincing, and there's a distinct loss of authenticity. (It's not like I'm with Dogma, but I think authenticity matters.)
I know! Actually I didn't. My G3 got damaged and my insurance company insisted that rather than having it repaired, they supply me with a like-for-like replacement. It cost them three times what the repair would have cost (and they wouldn't tell me how much it would jack up my premium) but their choice was the newly-released G11. Reviews on the web were mixed and I said I'd prefer to hold off until some of the limitations got dealt with in a G12 but in the end I caved in and accepted their offer.
Years before digitals came out, I worked very happily with a Canon AE-1 and loved it, so it's not that I'm averse to making decisions about shutter speed and aperture. It's just that I've been staggered at how well the G3 has done in relieiving me of certain decisions - leaving me, basically, to concentrate on composition - and disappointed at how much less well the G11 emulates the G3's performance.
From all the feedback I've been getting, it looks like if I want to persist with the G11, I'll have to go back to managng a much larger repertoire of decisions before clicking the shutter. Even then, it appears that I'll not be able to fight against the effect of the G11's Digic-4 sensor, which seems to prioritize equal lighting at the expense of contrast, depth, modelling and drama.
When you mention brightening shadows, it sounds like you have iContrast on (set to "auto"). It's kinda weird because it's not in the the...ah, shot menu? It's not in the menu with iso and stuff, it's in the other menu with "AF Frame", "AF Frame Size" etc.Ah-ha! You've now explained for me what the problem is with skin tones on the G11. I've been amazed that time and again, especially in close-up shots, subjects I'm taking look like they're covered in plastic and not skin.Third, don't shoot in full auto unless you have to. Because if you do the dynamic range filter will kick in and try to brighten shadows for you when it detects a scene with a wide dynamic range. Unfortunately there's no way to turn this off and it ruins skin tones.
When you mention brightening shadows, it sounds like you have iContrast on (set to "auto"). It's kinda weird because it's not in the the...ah, shot menu? It's not in the menu with iso and stuff, it's in the other menu with "AF Frame", "AF Frame Size" etc.Ah-ha! You've now explained for me what the problem is with skin tones on the G11. I've been amazed that time and again, especially in close-up shots, subjects I'm taking look like they're covered in plastic and not skin.Third, don't shoot in full auto unless you have to. Because if you do the dynamic range filter will kick in and try to brighten shadows for you when it detects a scene with a wide dynamic range. Unfortunately there's no way to turn this off and it ruins skin tones.
It's effects can be helpful or hurtful, but it can be turned off.
I just tried that out on my s90, and wow - that's super lame.When you mention brightening shadows, it sounds like you have iContrast on (set to "auto"). It's kinda weird because it's not in the the...ah, shot menu? It's not in the menu with iso and stuff, it's in the other menu with "AF Frame", "AF Frame Size" etc.Ah-ha! You've now explained for me what the problem is with skin tones on the G11. I've been amazed that time and again, especially in close-up shots, subjects I'm taking look like they're covered in plastic and not skin.Third, don't shoot in full auto unless you have to. Because if you do the dynamic range filter will kick in and try to brighten shadows for you when it detects a scene with a wide dynamic range. Unfortunately there's no way to turn this off and it ruins skin tones.
It's effects can be helpful or hurtful, but it can be turned off.
I think the "auto-mode" is simply completely automatic mode, where user doesn't have to think, just shoot away.I just tried that out on my s90, and wow - that's super lame.When you mention brightening shadows, it sounds like you have iContrast on (set to "auto"). It's kinda weird because it's not in the the...ah, shot menu? It's not in the menu with iso and stuff, it's in the other menu with "AF Frame", "AF Frame Size" etc.Ah-ha! You've now explained for me what the problem is with skin tones on the G11. I've been amazed that time and again, especially in close-up shots, subjects I'm taking look like they're covered in plastic and not skin.Third, don't shoot in full auto unless you have to. Because if you do the dynamic range filter will kick in and try to brighten shadows for you when it detects a scene with a wide dynamic range. Unfortunately there's no way to turn this off and it ruins skin tones.
It's effects can be helpful or hurtful, but it can be turned off.
Using "P" or one of the custom modes ("C") with everything set to "auto" is pretty much the same as auto mode. But that's not saying it's a rather annoying choice by Canon to not let you turn that off.