Frustated with D30 and or Lens??

[Wangler56634]

Hi Mike,

Go to photo.net. Register an account. You can immediately upload your image to your portfolio. Paste the URL where the image displays. Done.

BTW, photo.net is a very good site to visit even if you don't want to upload pictures. The speed of upload may be slow, so be patient when uploading..

Good luck!

Wangler

The orginal poster still has posted no samples

(a troll? log doesn't look like it)

I wondered about that too, but not everyone spends all day here
(like me :> ).

Perhaps Mr. Black will visit us tomorrow and report his conclusions
based on our responses.

 

[kelleym]

Hi to you all,
Thank you all for your patience discussing this theme again. I do
apreciate your help and have allways thought this to be a well
meaning and well informed forum.

I think everyone here tries, although sometimes we get a little out of hand .

(2) For a long time I have got the impresion from this forum that
prime lens and L lens seem to give that extra touch which to me
seems to be missing in the some of the pictures.

My wife has the 28-135 on her D30 and I can definiately tell a difference, particularly in low light, between it and my 28-70. I think the 28-135 is a fine overall general purpose lens, but for the finest images you do need to get better glass.

Buying the 50 1.4 (or even the excellent but much cheaper 1.8) will be a good choice for low light work, and should give you much sharper images than your present lens.

(4) I have been checking out my pictures and am noticing that the
softness seems to be more with low light conditions where the
28-135 opens to f4.5 or f5.6 and on the extreme ends, where most
zooms seem to go soft. What do you think?

As someone else noted, the 28-135 is not at its best wide open. But this is true of most lenses (although my L glass does not seem to suffer at all from shooting wide open or at the extreme ranges. That is, however, what you pay the big bucks for with the L glass). Conversely, stopping down even a cheap lens will produce a very good image (it's why a pinhole camera can work at all).

(5) I wonder if we do not put too much enfasis on Photodo results
and do not realize that there is more to a lens than resolution,
like contrast, colors,and saturation?

There are a lot of equations when it comes to Photodo results, not the least of which is variations from lens to lens. I have come to believe in the same exact lens there are good ones and bad ones, and buying from a store with a return policy is a must.

Another poster stated you can recover contrast and color in Photoshop, but that's not strictly true. Why you can improve what you have captured, you cannot achieve the same thing as getting the information in the first place. IOW, Photoshop might very well boost the color sat of a certain hue, but if you don't get the right hue in the first place you can't fix it. Not only that, but fixing each and every one of your shots due to a lens defect is not a pleasant prospect. Luckily most decent lenses will satisfy all but the very fussiest.

(6) Maybe I should send my camera in to be calibrated. It is just
so hard and risky to do from here in Costa Rica. I also hate the
idea of not having it for a time, but I am definately having
trouble with consistent exposure.

Remember the metering on any camera is only as good as the person holding the camera. There is no such thing as automatic metering -- the best the camera can do is assume you want a medium exposure of the subject that is within the zones you have chosen. Much of the time that's not true -- you don't want snow or a night scene to have medium exposure, for example.

The best metering device in the world is something you carry with you on your shoulders throughout the day. Learn the principles of exposure and you'll be producing terrific images you never thought possible by letting the camera make decisions for you (and digital makes it easy to learn by giving you instant feedback).

 

[Bryan29453]

Hi All,

Mike has asked me to post images discussed within the forum, they are shown below:



The image above of a "Spotted Yellow" was taken with his Canon D30 outfit.



The above image "Yellow Flower" was taken with his C3030



The image above "Spotted Yellow" was taken with his C3030.

I hope these show Mike's problem.

Bryan

The orginal poster still has posted no samples

(a troll? log doesn't look like it)

I wondered about that too, but not everyone spends all day here
(like me :> ).

Perhaps Mr. Black will visit us tomorrow and report his conclusions
based on our responses.

 

[Bryan29453]

Sorry, I should have changed the heading. Mikes images are posted at:

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1019&page=1&message=1585589

Oops

Bryan

Mike has asked me to post images discussed within the forum, they
are shown below:



The image above of a "Spotted Yellow" was taken with his Canon D30
outfit.



The above image "Yellow Flower" was taken with his C3030



The image above "Spotted Yellow" was taken with his C3030.

I hope these show Mike's problem.

Bryan

The orginal poster still has posted no samples

(a troll? log doesn't look like it)

I wondered about that too, but not everyone spends all day here
(like me :> ).

Perhaps Mr. Black will visit us tomorrow and report his conclusions
based on our responses.

 

[kelleym]

Mike,

Based on these images, you are correct in complaining. You should be able to get much sharper images from your camera.

I don't have Photoshop on my work computer, but offhand I'd say correctly applied USM will go a long way towards solving this. If it doesn't make it razor sharp then a good lens (like the 100mm macro) will do the trick. I'm sure others can post similar examples of flowers taken with that lens and show you what can be achieved.

If someone doesn't take the time to work with these I'd be glad to do something this evening.

 

[Brian Mottershead]

While the D30 "Yellow Flowers" image is improved by sharpening (I used 255%, .6 radius, 0 threshold), I also think it might be sharper out of the camera. Was there any camera or subject movement? Did you use a tripod? What lens and aperture? Were these auto-focused, or manually focused?

Can you take a picture of a sharply-defined subject on a tripod with a known-good lens (like a 50mm f/1.8) with the focus at infinity and with an aperture around f/8? If that isn't sharp, then I would be thinking about letting Canon take a look at that camera.

Mike,

Based on these images, you are correct in complaining. You
should be able to get much sharper images from your camera.

I don't have Photoshop on my work computer, but offhand I'd say
correctly applied USM will go a long way towards solving this. If
it doesn't make it razor sharp then a good lens (like the 100mm
macro) will do the trick. I'm sure others can post similar
examples of flowers taken with that lens and show you what can be
achieved.

If someone doesn't take the time to work with these I'd be glad to
do something this evening.

 

[Mike Greer]

(5) I wonder if we do not put too much enfasis on Photodo results
and do not realize that there is more to a lens than resolution,
like contrast, colors,and saturation?

I want to make one quick comment here. Many people (and you can witness it in this forum) use Photoshop as a synonym for image editor. While a tremendous image editor, it is not the only tool to use for image editing. I simply say this because people get the mistaken impression that Photoshop and only Photoshop is capable of quality image editing. Then when they see the price, it start getting the impression that digital imaging is too expensive. The fact is that for what 90%+ of what peopoe do, there are many quality options available for less than $100. That's it.

 

[Chris Le]

Mike,

I had EOS-1V 50 F1.4, 17-35 L, 28-70 L, 28-135, 70-200 F2.8 L and D30. My EOS-1V never have this focus problems with any lens that I had until I got my D30 7 months ago. So, I did a test on the D30 Auto Focus system. This is how to did it.

1. set your D30 on tripod
2. use a ruler with a nice sharp number on it (NO clear ruler)

3. set the ruler about 45 degree angles toward you, so that number 0 close to you.
4. set the focus point the middle (NOT all three)
5. Aim the focus point to the middle of the ruler ( I used number 6)

6. set the Aperture to 3.5 (if you used 28-135) and 28mm setup on the lens. This will make your dep of field to minimum and
7. try again with the f5.6 at 135mm.

After done all that, look at the picture and see if the D30 focus dead on number 6 or is it focus in front or behind number 6.

With my it was focus in front of number 6. With these pictures, I contact Canon and explained to them. Canon tech knew the problems right away, I sent my in for calibration and got it back in a week. Now my D30 is in a perfect focus.

About the 28-135 IS, I think it a wonderful lens but only used it if I in situation that flash can not be used and that when I pulled out my 28-135 IS.

This is only my 2 cents opinions, I hope this any senses to you and hope that this help.

Chris.

I have asked this question before, but have not had a straight answer.
Is the D30 image not razor sharp, or is my lens the problem?
I have had my D30 for about three months now and still feel that
the images are not razor sharp, nor are the colors vibrant like my
former Oly c3030. I have asked this question before and almost
always find on this forum that D30 owners try to defend the camera
by saying that the images are processed soft on purpose so as to
leave room for post processing. I have tried sharpening in PS,
Playing with colors etc, but frankly when I compare my pictures
with some of my old Oly C3030 pictures I feel a bit disapointed
especially on macro pictures. I feel that sharpening digitally is
not the same as getting a real sharp picture to begin with.
I also do not get consistent exposure and have to keep compensating
until I get it just right something that a P and S camera did more
consistently. I often wonder what I would do if it was a film
camera??
I have tried diferent DOFs,shutter speeds, triopd, with flash or
natural light. I even made a focus test by taking a pic of my
daughters ABC spelling blocks at slightly different distances to
see if the camera was focusing exactly, and have got to the
conclusion that my images are not razor sharp, nor have vivid
colors. I do notice that the problem is worse at lowish light
conditions with the lens opened up. I have the 28-135 IS and a
Sigma 105mm macro. I have noticed on this forum that people go
either to the prime 50mm f1.4 or 28-70L lens and seem more happy
with image contrast and colors etc.
Could someone please tell me if geting L lens is going to satisfy
me or do I need to sell out before I loose more photos and money.
By the way I have been an amatuer for 40 yrs and have had a SLR
Minolta SRT 101 for 29 years shooting slides and have never had so
much frustration.
Thanks for listening to me.
Mike

 

[wangler50440]

Hi

The magnification of the D30 photo is much bigger than that taken with C3030. There is no exif information I can derive from the picture. But I'd like to say a macro photo with this level of magnification is extremely hard to achive, why?

1) First, any moving(handshake or breeze) will be a disaster. This photo is obviously taken outside. A wind screen is essential even if you use a tripod. You'd better use the mirror lock-up also. Even if you've done all these, you still need luck to get a real sharp one.
2)The DOF is minimumn even if you use f22.
3)Any defection on the glass will be maganified. A decent lens is a must have.

4)The 1.6X multiplier of D30 make the above three even worse. This is the only part that relative to D30 but not to film body. Use the 1:1 lens, you are getting 1.6:1 equivalent to 35mm body, which is beyond lifesize magnification. So Your experience of the lens on film body can not be transfer directly to D30.

Look at some of Mr. Bill's D30 macro photos here: http://bstorage.com/wksphoto/flowers/index.htm
It is a example that one could achieve fine results though it is difficult.

Last thing, I am sure you can easily get much better results than C3030 if the magnification is not that big, at least if it is only up to that of the pictures taken by C3030.

Hope this helps.

Wangler

Mike has asked me to post images discussed within the forum, they
are shown below:



The image above of a "Spotted Yellow" was taken with his Canon D30
outfit.



The above image "Yellow Flower" was taken with his C3030



The image above "Spotted Yellow" was taken with his C3030.

I hope these show Mike's problem.

Bryan

The orginal poster still has posted no samples

(a troll? log doesn't look like it)

I wondered about that too, but not everyone spends all day here
(like me :> ).

Perhaps Mr. Black will visit us tomorrow and report his conclusions
based on our responses.

 

[Bryan29453]

The D30 image put through Ultra Sharpen 5 Pro.

I had EOS-1V 50 F1.4, 17-35 L, 28-70 L, 28-135, 70-200 F2.8 L and
D30. My EOS-1V never have this focus problems with any lens that I
had until I got my D30 7 months ago. So, I did a test on the D30
Auto Focus system. This is how to did it.

1. set your D30 on tripod
2. use a ruler with a nice sharp number on it (NO clear ruler)
3. set the ruler about 45 degree angles toward you, so that number
0 close to you.
4. set the focus point the middle (NOT all three)
5. Aim the focus point to the middle of the ruler ( I used number 6)
6. set the Aperture to 3.5 (if you used 28-135) and 28mm setup on
the lens. This will make your dep of field to minimum and
7. try again with the f5.6 at 135mm.

After done all that, look at the picture and see if the D30 focus
dead on number 6 or is it focus in front or behind number 6.

With my it was focus in front of number 6. With these pictures, I
contact Canon and explained to them. Canon tech knew the problems
right away, I sent my in for calibration and got it back in a week.
Now my D30 is in a perfect focus.

About the 28-135 IS, I think it a wonderful lens but only used it
if I in situation that flash can not be used and that when I pulled
out my 28-135 IS.

This is only my 2 cents opinions, I hope this any senses to you
and hope that this help.

Chris.

I have asked this question before, but have not had a straight answer.
Is the D30 image not razor sharp, or is my lens the problem?
I have had my D30 for about three months now and still feel that
the images are not razor sharp, nor are the colors vibrant like my
former Oly c3030. I have asked this question before and almost
always find on this forum that D30 owners try to defend the camera
by saying that the images are processed soft on purpose so as to
leave room for post processing. I have tried sharpening in PS,
Playing with colors etc, but frankly when I compare my pictures
with some of my old Oly C3030 pictures I feel a bit disapointed
especially on macro pictures. I feel that sharpening digitally is
not the same as getting a real sharp picture to begin with.
I also do not get consistent exposure and have to keep compensating
until I get it just right something that a P and S camera did more
consistently. I often wonder what I would do if it was a film
camera??
I have tried diferent DOFs,shutter speeds, triopd, with flash or
natural light. I even made a focus test by taking a pic of my
daughters ABC spelling blocks at slightly different distances to
see if the camera was focusing exactly, and have got to the
conclusion that my images are not razor sharp, nor have vivid
colors. I do notice that the problem is worse at lowish light
conditions with the lens opened up. I have the 28-135 IS and a
Sigma 105mm macro. I have noticed on this forum that people go
either to the prime 50mm f1.4 or 28-70L lens and seem more happy
with image contrast and colors etc.
Could someone please tell me if geting L lens is going to satisfy
me or do I need to sell out before I loose more photos and money.
By the way I have been an amatuer for 40 yrs and have had a SLR
Minolta SRT 101 for 29 years shooting slides and have never had so
much frustration.
Thanks for listening to me.
Mike

 

[Mike Black]

Hi Wrangler,

Thanks for your suggestions about breeze moving the flowers. I did use a tripod but the movement caused by the breeze does makes sense and I will try some shots with tripod and no breeze, or better still I will shoot a fixed object and see.

The magnification of the D30 photo is much bigger than that taken
with C3030. There is no exif information I can derive from the
picture. But I'd like to say a macro photo with this level of
magnification is extremely hard to achive, why?
1) First, any moving(handshake or breeze) will be a disaster. This
photo is obviously taken outside. A wind screen is essential even
if you use a tripod. You'd better use the mirror lock-up also. Even
if you've done all these, you still need luck to get a real sharp
one.
2)The DOF is minimumn even if you use f22.
3)Any defection on the glass will be maganified. A decent lens is a
must have.
4)The 1.6X multiplier of D30 make the above three even worse. This
is the only part that relative to D30 but not to film body. Use the
1:1 lens, you are getting 1.6:1 equivalent to 35mm body, which is
beyond lifesize magnification. So Your experience of the lens on
film body can not be transfer directly to D30.

Look at some of Mr. Bill's D30 macro photos here:
http://bstorage.com/wksphoto/flowers/index.htm
It is a example that one could achieve fine results though it is
difficult.

Last thing, I am sure you can easily get much better results than
C3030 if the magnification is not that big, at least if it is only
up to that of the pictures taken by C3030.

Hope this helps.

Wangler

Mike has asked me to post images discussed within the forum, they
are shown below:



The image above of a "Spotted Yellow" was taken with his Canon D30
outfit.



The above image "Yellow Flower" was taken with his C3030



The image above "Spotted Yellow" was taken with his C3030.

I hope these show Mike's problem.

Bryan

The orginal poster still has posted no samples

(a troll? log doesn't look like it)

I wondered about that too, but not everyone spends all day here
(like me :> ).

Perhaps Mr. Black will visit us tomorrow and report his conclusions
based on our responses.

 

[Mike Black]

Thanks Bryan for posting the pictures. This one really looks a lot better in ultra sharpen pro. I will take some macro pictures over the week end of some fixed object ( which does not move) with a tripod and different f. stops to get to the bottoem of this and try to post them.
Thanks
Mike

The D30 image put through Ultra Sharpen 5 Pro.

Thanks Chris for your suggestion. Actually after doing the test with the ABC blocks I actualy did a test just like you suggested and found the focus to be in the center like you said.
Thanks,
Mike

Mike,

I had EOS-1V 50 F1.4, 17-35 L, 28-70 L, 28-135, 70-200 F2.8 L and
D30. My EOS-1V never have this focus problems with any lens that I
had until I got my D30 7 months ago. So, I did a test on the D30
Auto Focus system. This is how to did it.

1. set your D30 on tripod
2. use a ruler with a nice sharp number on it (NO clear ruler)
3. set the ruler about 45 degree angles toward you, so that number
0 close to you.
4. set the focus point the middle (NOT all three)
5. Aim the focus point to the middle of the ruler ( I used number 6)
6. set the Aperture to 3.5 (if you used 28-135) and 28mm setup on
the lens. This will make your dep of field to minimum and
7. try again with the f5.6 at 135mm.

After done all that, look at the picture and see if the D30 focus
dead on number 6 or is it focus in front or behind number 6.

With my it was focus in front of number 6. With these pictures, I
contact Canon and explained to them. Canon tech knew the problems
right away, I sent my in for calibration and got it back in a week.
Now my D30 is in a perfect focus.

About the 28-135 IS, I think it a wonderful lens but only used it
if I in situation that flash can not be used and that when I pulled
out my 28-135 IS.

This is only my 2 cents opinions, I hope this any senses to you
and hope that this help.

Chris.

 

[Mike Black]

Here's a pic taken with 28-135IS hand held.
Seems to do better with good light.
what do you think?
Mike.
http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=383666

 

[Wangler56634]

Mike,

It is all about the shutter speed. When the light is dim, remember to use higher ISO.
This one is made before dark. http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=383603

I use ISO 400 but still can only get 1/25s shutter speed. But it looks fine. I may not be able to get it if I use my default ISO 100, because there was always breeze on the lakeside. B.T.w., I used tripod but forget to carry the remote switch, so I used the selftimer.

Have fun..

Wangler

Here's a pic taken with 28-135IS hand held.
Seems to do better with good light.
what do you think?
Mike.
http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=383666

 

[Bryan29453]

Hi All,

I agree with everything said about L lenses and primes but I must be honest - I am happy with what my 28-135mm IS can produce (reduced for spead but can post original) 1/350 @ f9.5 @ ISO100

The last summer flower in my back garden (back yard is US speak)



IMHO

Bryan

Have fun..

Wangler

Here's a pic taken with 28-135IS hand held.
Seems to do better with good light.
what do you think?
Mike.
http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=383666

 

[Bryan29453]

and another, just to make a point

The last rose of summer.

1/350 @ f8.0 ISO100



I am still happy

Bryan

I agree with everything said about L lenses and primes but I must
be honest - I am happy with what my 28-135mm IS can produce
(reduced for spead but can post original) 1/350 @ f9.5 @ ISO100

The last summer flower in my back garden (back yard is US speak)



IMHO

Bryan

Have fun..

Wangler

Here's a pic taken with 28-135IS hand held.
Seems to do better with good light.
what do you think?
Mike.
http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=383666

 

[Mike Black]

Hi Cris,

I decided to check the focus using the method you suggested again, which gave me the following results using AF and MF.
I focused on the 70 in both cases.
http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=387847
http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=387860

What do you think of the results?

I had EOS-1V 50 F1.4, 17-35 L, 28-70 L, 28-135, 70-200 F2.8 L and
D30. My EOS-1V never have this focus problems with any lens that I
had until I got my D30 7 months ago. So, I did a test on the D30
Auto Focus system. This is how to did it.

1. set your D30 on tripod
2. use a ruler with a nice sharp number on it (NO clear ruler)
3. set the ruler about 45 degree angles toward you, so that number
0 close to you.
4. set the focus point the middle (NOT all three)
5. Aim the focus point to the middle of the ruler ( I used number 6)
6. set the Aperture to 3.5 (if you used 28-135) and 28mm setup on
the lens. This will make your dep of field to minimum and
7. try again with the f5.6 at 135mm.

After done all that, look at the picture and see if the D30 focus
dead on number 6 or is it focus in front or behind number 6.

With my it was focus in front of number 6. With these pictures, I
contact Canon and explained to them. Canon tech knew the problems
right away, I sent my in for calibration and got it back in a week.
Now my D30 is in a perfect focus.

About the 28-135 IS, I think it a wonderful lens but only used it
if I in situation that flash can not be used and that when I pulled
out my 28-135 IS.

This is only my 2 cents opinions, I hope this any senses to you
and hope that this help.

Chris.

I have asked this question before, but have not had a straight answer.
Is the D30 image not razor sharp, or is my lens the problem?
I have had my D30 for about three months now and still feel that
the images are not razor sharp, nor are the colors vibrant like my
former Oly c3030. I have asked this question before and almost
always find on this forum that D30 owners try to defend the camera
by saying that the images are processed soft on purpose so as to
leave room for post processing. I have tried sharpening in PS,
Playing with colors etc, but frankly when I compare my pictures
with some of my old Oly C3030 pictures I feel a bit disapointed
especially on macro pictures. I feel that sharpening digitally is
not the same as getting a real sharp picture to begin with.
I also do not get consistent exposure and have to keep compensating
until I get it just right something that a P and S camera did more
consistently. I often wonder what I would do if it was a film
camera??
I have tried diferent DOFs,shutter speeds, triopd, with flash or
natural light. I even made a focus test by taking a pic of my
daughters ABC spelling blocks at slightly different distances to
see if the camera was focusing exactly, and have got to the
conclusion that my images are not razor sharp, nor have vivid
colors. I do notice that the problem is worse at lowish light
conditions with the lens opened up. I have the 28-135 IS and a
Sigma 105mm macro. I have noticed on this forum that people go
either to the prime 50mm f1.4 or 28-70L lens and seem more happy
with image contrast and colors etc.

 

[Steve63297]

I'm with you Mike. I've only had my D-30 for a couple weeks and
don't know exactly what to do.

In Photoshop use unsharp mask to sharpen your photos ,make sure you turn on the preview to see how much sharpening you prefer.It is under the category> Filter> Sharpen> Unsharp Mask I set the radius at 4.0

The Canon D30 gives you a wonderful image but requires some tweaking under some circumstances. The advantage of this camera to me is the file size which is not too large for easier storage and adjustment. I had a Fuji S1 which did not require as much post processing but the file size was larger and more cumbersome to store and edit not to mention the amount of pics I can take with my 1gig microdrive. Also don't forget the D30 is the only full size digital SLR that you don't need to carry around 7 pounds of batteries for. the camera itself is not a brick either which for a hobbyist like myself is what I want. Steve

 

[Mike Black]

Hi Steve,

I made some tests over the week end using the tape measure as was suggested by Cris. As you can see there does seem to be a difference between focusing on the screen and focusing on the CMOS sensor.

This picture below shows what I mean. I manually focused on the flower and the leaf came out very well focused. As a matter of fact this pic shows what the Sigma 105mm macro and D30 is capable of doing and what I was expecting from my D30 and lens.

This confirms my fear that my D30 is not well calibrated, but I now see the full capabilities of the combination, and I think it is what I call razor sharp.

I really apreciate the help you all have given me. I will let you know the out come of all this, but I am just shaking with excitement to see what a fine image the D30 can produce. (When I send it in to Canon)
http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=389355
Thanks
Mike

I'm with you Mike. I've only had my D-30 for a couple weeks and
don't know exactly what to do.

In Photoshop use unsharp mask to sharpen your photos ,make sure you
turn on the preview to see how much sharpening you prefer.It is
under the category> Filter> Sharpen> Unsharp Mask I set the radius at
4.0
The Canon D30 gives you a wonderful image but requires some
tweaking under some circumstances. The advantage of this camera to
me is the file size which is not too large for easier storage and
adjustment. I had a Fuji S1 which did not require as much post
processing but the file size was larger and more cumbersome to
store and edit not to mention the amount of pics I can take with my
1gig microdrive. Also don't forget the D30 is the only full size
digital SLR that you don't need to carry around 7 pounds of
batteries for. the camera itself is not a brick either which for a
hobbyist like myself is what I want. Steve

 

[Chunin Martinez]

Mike, I don't see that the focus is not well calibrated from our sample. If you look at the picture, it is clear that the plane of focus if from the right background to the left foreground. And that is why the background right leaf, the middle intermediate leaf and the tip of the left foreground flower are sharp. I think that when taking macros, you have to take into account the plane of focus carefully. It makes a big difference. Try to make it as parallel to your subject as possible.

Chunin

Hi Steve,
I made some tests over the week end using the tape measure as was
suggested by Cris. As you can see there does seem to be a
difference between focusing on the screen and focusing on the CMOS
sensor.
This picture below shows what I mean. I manually focused on the
flower and the leaf came out very well focused. As a matter of fact
this pic shows what the Sigma 105mm macro and D30 is capable of
doing and what I was expecting from my D30 and lens.
This confirms my fear that my D30 is not well calibrated, but I now
see the full capabilities of the combination, and I think it is
what I call razor sharp.
I really apreciate the help you all have given me. I will let you
know the out come of all this, but I am just shaking with
excitement to see what a fine image the D30 can produce. (When I
send it in to Canon)
http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=389355
Thanks
Mike