Flash Units Advice

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Hi,

I had a nice home-studio set up with two white shoot-through brollies and a pair of Neewer TT850's. Now the flashes are of no use due to the infamous batteries issue, I wanted to revert to a couple of good AA battery powered units. Something affordable, that can be used on remote triggers.

Presently I was looking at this set up:


Then I noticed it was only GN35 unlike the TT850 GN58. Will the 561's still be as good a replacement for my studio? It looked like a good deal, but a shame you can't change the flash units powers like with the remote add-on for the 850s.

I was hoping for a frequency of around 433mhz.

Thanks for your advice :)
 
I'm not being anti-Neweer, I will be buying a studio kit from Neweer with strobe lights. But I also own Godox, well recommended by folks in dpreview. I have the smaller Godox TT350 f (for fuji) that can act as either master or slave. I also have the 860 with lithium battery. You might want to take a look at the Godox brand.
 
So is there a big difference between GN35 flashes and GN58 flashes?
 
I've just done a copy and past from an old post in 2017 but its a good answer, I'll link at the bottom this thread.

"The guide number is given as a distance; so whether it's in feet or meters matters. And that distance is for the flash at a given combination of zoom setting and ISO setting when used at full power. If you take the guide number and divide it by the f-number of the aperture setting you're using, that's how far away a subject can be and still be properly illuminated by the flash.

Given that they're going with lowest iso, highest zoom, and highest power setting, this is the absolute limit of what your flash can do.

So, the numbers are:

V860II - GN 60m @ISO 100, zoom 200mm.

TT350 - GN 36m @ISO 100, zoom 105mm.

More realistically, it's probably going to be about half to two thirds that number in use, because you won't be zoomed in all the time. Zoom on a flash is basically how far forward/back the flash tube in the head is in order to control the spread of light. Zooming all the way in puts the tube all the way back to give the tightest, most focused beam possible, which looks the most powerful, so a lot of manufactures put the GN spec in that arena. In reality, at 35mm zoom, that V860II's guide number will probably be between 35-40 meters.

So, yes. This is a BIG difference.

The V860II is a full-sized speedlight, that runs off a Li-Ion battery pack with the capacity of roughly 3 sets of 4xAAs in it. The TT350 is a mini-flash for mirrorless that runs off 2xAA batteries. The V860II not only can pump out a lot more light per flash, but can do up to 600+ full power bursts off one pack before needing a new one, while the TT350 can only do about 200+ full power bursts before needing a new set of batteries. It's much less powerful.

And power with a flash is like max. aperture with a lens: the more you have, the more you can do.

Or maybe other propositions for sony A7II? TTL+HSS is a must have.

Question is whether you plan to use the flash on-camera or off-camera and whether you just need it for fill or as your main source of illumination. On-camera, a big full-sized flash is likely to be unwieldy and top-heavy. A smaller unit is likely to balance better."

As I said before, I own both Godox lenses mentioned in this post and I much prefer the smaller TT350. As a review I read and agree with, it will be just fine 95% of the time. Some purchase two TT350's rather than one 860. Or you can purchase all three for studio work.

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4141861
 
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I had a nice home-studio set up with two white shoot-through brollies and a pair of Neewer TT850's. Now the flashes are of no use due to the infamous batteries issue,
First off, Neewer doesn't make flashes, they rebrand them from a half-dozen different Chinese manufacturers. The Neewer TT850 was a rebrand of the Godox V850 I.

Secondly the "infamous battery issue" with the AD180/AD360 and V850 I and V860 I lasted about half a year, until Godox straightened out their supply chain. By the time the AD360 II, V850 II, and V860 II came out, the packs were solid.

Today, the Godox "V" speedlights that run off li-ion packs a pretty universally praised. A lot of folks prefer them to AA-powered flashes, and the packs are replaceable. Granted, the V850 I is a very old model now, manual-only, and doesn't have radio built in, so wanting to upgrade is understandable.
I wanted to revert to a couple of good AA battery powered units. Something affordable, that can be used on remote triggers.
Godox TT600 is the AA analog to the V850 II. It's $65. It's single-pin manual. But as a radio slave to a Godox 2.4 GHz transmitter (other than the FC16 triggers), it can give you remote power, group and HSS control. It's kind of useless on a camera hotshoe, though.

The TT685 is the TTL/HSS-capable speedlight mode ($110) but looks like it may now be discontinued since the TT685 II ($130) came out around December. The TT685 II only swivels 330º, not 360º, and no longer does "smart" optical wireless for Canon, Nikon, and Sony. But it has a slidelock instead of a screwlock, a slight backwards head tilt, and its UI/feature set has been upgraded to match the V860 III/V1 more closely.

All these 2.4 GHz Godox speedlights come with built-in radio transceivers (transmitter/receiver unit) in Godox's X system. You can't leave your receiver behind ever again. :)
Presently I was looking at this set up (Neewer NW561)...

Then I noticed it was only GN35 unlike the TT850 GN58.
You missed the crucial piece of information, the zoom setting at which the guide number was measured.

On the NW561 the guide number is: 35m, at ISO 100, zoomed to 35mm.

It's likely your TT850 was GN 58m, at iso 100, zoomed to 105mm.

The zoom setting is how far back into the head the flash tube is positioned. The farther back, the narrower/more focused the beam (higher zoom) and the more powerful the flash looks.

A Nikon top-of-the-line SB-5000 has a guide number of 35m at 35mm zoom iso 100.

Canon's 580EX, which had a GN of 58m at iso 100, 105mm zoom has identical output to the 60m guide numbered 600EX-RT, at iso 100 and 200mm zoom.

Adorama measure the GN of the Godox V1 at 42m 100 at 105mm zoom. The Godox V860 II is measured at 60mm iso 100 and 200mm zoom.

Most of these speedlights have also had their output measured in identical off-camera lighting setups with a light meter to compare them side-by-side, and they're all pretty much at the same level of light output.

The Nikon looks less powerful because it's measured at a realistic zoom, not the maximum zoom.

The Canon's and Godox fresnel heads look more powerful, because they're measured at maximum zoom.

The V1 looks less powerful, because it zooms less, and its round head has a more even and wider spread/falloff than a traditional fresnel head.

TL;DR, the 561 is probably around the same power output as your TT850.
Will the 561's still be as good a replacement for my studio? It looked like a good deal, but a shame you can't change the flash units powers like with the remote add-on for the 850s.

I was hoping for a frequency of around 433mhz.
Just FYI. Those triggers that come with the NW561 are probably rebranded Godox FC16 triggers. They don't allow for groups, remote power control, or HSS, like say, the Cells II/FT16/FTR16s triggers you were probably using with the V850 I.

Personally, I say go with TT685 or TT685 IIs for your camera system (but okay, TT600 if you have to go dirt cheap). And an Godox X2T, XPro, or Flashpoint R2 Pro II transmitter for your camera system.

The Godox 2.4 GHz X system flashes and transmitters allow for group on/off control, remote power control by group in either TTL or M, with HSS, 2nd curtain, MULTI, etc. etc. You even get remote modeling light control on the studio strobes in the system. And that functional support exist not just for Canon and Nikon, but also Sony, Fuji, Olympus/Panasonic, and Pentax.

You get LCD screens so you can see 3-5 group settings all at once, you don't have to use flipping dip switches to set channels, you get TTL with TTL lights, and you're in the current 2.4 GHz system that has cheap AC manual powered strobes (say, the Godox MS300) as well as li-ion powered TTL/HSS strobes in it. You have ten speedlight models to choose from, and you don't have to clip an FTR16s/XTR16s receiver onto the side of the speedlight to trigger it over radio.

You were using first-gen Godox gear. We're at about the 4th generation, now. Take advantage. :D And ditch the Neewer branding; there's too much mystery-meat stuff out there you have no idea what it is. That NW651 you're looking at is NOT a Godox flash.

I know, you're all manual-only and you've never needed TTL and only losers use TTL, etc. etc. But chances are you've never used it (since your flashes didn't do it) and you're unaware that TTL can make any changes to iso, aperture, and flash placement transparent to the flash exposure. You could shoot at f/5.6 then switch to f/1.4 on the fly and back again to f/5.6 without having to adjust the power on your light.

Godox's "Pro" transmitters also let you use TCM (TTL Convert to Manual) so you can use TTL to set the power level, then switch to M to finesse or lock the level. While TTL sucks for use on all your lights, it can be incredibly convenient for your key, or, if your key/fill are placed at similar distances to your subject, key/fill ratios. And these days, the triggers let you mix TTL and M groups together.

And all the TTL gear also does M. The M-only gear can never do TTL. And in the Godox 2.4 GHz system, the power/group control

Back when David Hobby told people TTL gear was useless for off-camera flash, TTL wireless systems were all OEM, proprietary optical with range/reliability/line of sight issues, and cost about 5x more than manual radio triggering. You couldn't lock the power level in for shot-to-shot consistency, and even in the OEM systems, it was typically only 2 or 3 groups and all-TTL or all-M, not mixed.

But today? The cost difference is minimal (say about $50 between a TT600 and a TT685), it's all radio based, it's five groups (three that can do TTL/M, two that are M only), with mixed TTL/M modes, and TTL-locking (TCM). A lot has changed in 16 years of flash tech. You may want to see what's out there.
 
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Hi,

I had a nice home-studio set up with two white shoot-through brollies and a pair of Neewer TT850's. Now the flashes are of no use due to the infamous batteries issue
Did they swell? When the TT850/V850 was new, there were issues with batteries swelling. Godox improved their manufacturing, and I've heard few reports of this issue since. You can get new VB18 batteries from Adorama for $40. I wouldn't buy VB18s on that auction site, as they could be old stock.

I've got a couple of TT850s whose batteries succumbed after 2-3 years. I'd get new batteries for them, but I've since upgraded to V850IIs (with four V850IIIs and one V860III on the way), mainly for the integrated triggering. Haven't had any issues with those batteries over the three years since I bought 'em. For what it's worth, the MkIII versions of the V850 and V860 have a pass-through compartment for their new batteries, so that a swelled battery can be pushed through. FWIW, Adorama sells a 3-bay charger for these new batteries.
, I wanted to revert to a couple of good AA battery powered units. Something affordable, that can be used on remote triggers.

Presently I was looking at this set up:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-NW-...cs&sprefix=neewer+561,electronics,1044&sr=1-3

Then I noticed it was only GN35 unlike the TT850 GN58. Will the 561's still be as good a replacement for my studio? It looked like a good deal, but a shame you can't change the flash units powers like with the remote add-on for the 850s.

I was hoping for a frequency of around 433mhz.

Thanks for your advice :)
 
Hi,

I had a nice home-studio set up with two white shoot-through brollies and a pair of Neewer TT850's. Now the flashes are of no use due to the infamous batteries issue
Did they swell? When the TT850/V850 was new, there were issues with batteries swelling. Godox improved their manufacturing, and I've heard few reports of this issue since. You can get new VB18 batteries from Adorama for $40. I wouldn't buy VB18s on that auction site, as they could be old stock.
I posted the following a week ago about my Godox lithium battery difficult to get out of the flash head. It was suggested I had a swollen battery. I will provide the link below:

"My Godox V860 ii lithium battery stiffly slides into the battery compartment but when I push the "white" button, nothing happens. I have actually thought about taking a really fine sandpaper to the sides of the battery but then I thought I might ask here if any others have had this problem and come up with a solution."

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/66104110

I would now recommend to others to not get the V860 ii model as I am out a lithium battery, disposed of the swollen one and now have the inconvenience and expense of purchasing a new lithium battery.
 
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Hi,

I had a nice home-studio set up with two white shoot-through brollies and a pair of Neewer TT850's. Now the flashes are of no use due to the infamous batteries issue
Did they swell? When the TT850/V850 was new, there were issues with batteries swelling. Godox improved their manufacturing, and I've heard few reports of this issue since. You can get new VB18 batteries from Adorama for $40. I wouldn't buy VB18s on that auction site, as they could be old stock.
I posted the following a week ago about my Godox lithium battery difficult to get out of the flash head. It was suggested I had a swollen battery. I will provide the link below:

"My Godox V860 ii lithium battery stiffly slides into the battery compartment but when I push the "white" button, nothing happens. I have actually thought about taking a really fine sandpaper to the sides of the battery but then I thought I might ask here if any others have had this problem and come up with a solution."

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/66104110

I would now recommend to others to not get the V860 ii model as I am out a lithium battery, disposed of the swollen one and now have the inconvenience and expense of purchasing a new lithium battery.
I got bad news for you - li-ion batteries are typically good for only 3-5 years. Having to replace batteries once in a while is simply a fact of life. There's nothing special about the V860II: this is going to be true for any flash that uses li-ion batteries. Now, the Neewer TT850 and original Godox V850 are special in the sense that they were the first flashes with li-ion batteries, and the manufacturing technology at release was not yet mature. As I said, Godox made improvements, and I've seen few reports of issues with batteries shipped with the MkII models and have experienced none myself over the past 2-3 years.

So, I see no reason to "recommend to others to not get the V860 ii model" unless you're going to recommend that others not buy any li-ion-powered flashes at all and instead get ones that use AA NiMH batteries.
 
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I'm not being anti-Neweer, I will be buying a studio kit from Neweer with strobe lights. But I also own Godox, well recommended by folks in dpreview. I have the smaller Godox TT350 f (for fuji) that can act as either master or slave. I also have the 860 with lithium battery. You might want to take a look at the Godox brand.
The Neewer TT850 is simply a Godox V850 with a different brand label on it. I own both.
 
Hey! Thanks everyone for your amazing replies :)

That sure was a lot of reading.

So here's the thing - very tight budget. Loved the old flash set up, but reight now the transmitters and flashes are heading to the charity shop becaue of the battery issue.

A new AA battery set up with transmitters, like the one outlined above, looked like a good alternative, and replacing dead rechargeable AAs is a cheaper alternative.

That said - a couple of guaranteed working replacement Li-ons would be cheaper than the outlay of the new aforementioned flash set up.

But there are mixed responses - some say new replacement batteries even now are still failing, others have been 100% fine. I tried to get a replacement back in the day (many years ago) and got sent a DOA battery they wouldnt re-replace :(

Where do you find the right replacements? I prefer Amazon, but like one of you said, a seller could be getting rid of old stock.

The TT units have been in storage a while, and battery #2 went U.S. (that's unservicable, btw - they didn't go on holiday stateside), so I now have 2 unusable flashes. So you sorta see my problem. And I'd like to get the old studo brollies back in action again. I used to bounce the flashes into the brollies, and my old teacher told me et the camera for F11.

The other flashes I own are a Metz 45 CL-1, and a Woctron 2800DSF. I also use a Gossen DigiPro F flash/light meter.

The Woctron made for a good back/hair light on a lw tripod behind the subject, fired on a strobe.

Thanks again for your great support.

PS - sorry for any mised letters. I think this keyboard is slowly giving up the ghost!
 
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Hey! Thanks everyone for your amazing replies :)

That sure was a lot of reading.

So here's the thing - very tight budget. Loved the old flash set up, but reight now the transmitters and flashes are heading to the charity shop becaue of the battery issue.

A new AA battery set up with transmitters, like the one outlined above, looked like a good alternative, and replacing dead rechargeable AAs is a cheaper alternative.

That said - a couple of guaranteed working replacement Li-ons would be cheaper than the outlay of the new aforementioned flash set up.

But there are mixed responses - some say new replacement batteries even now are still failing, others have been 100% fine. I tried to get a replacement back in the day (many years ago) and got sent a DOA battery they wouldnt re-replace :(

Where do you find the right replacements? I prefer Amazon, but like one of you said, a seller could be getting rid of old stock.
Forget about Amazon: most sellers are fly-by-night operations, and I suspect their "warranties" are worthless. As I wrote earlier, you can get new VB18 batteries under the Flashpoint brand from Adorama for $40. These will be covered by Adorama's warranty. I try to get all my Godox stuff as Flashpoint-branded gear from Adorama, and they've been very helpful to me in dealing with firmware updates and compatibility issues. As a 20-year pro living in NYC, I get all my new gear from B&H and Adorama. All the many pros I know here do likewise. These two retailers have good reputations among the pro community for good reasons.
The TT units have been in storage a while, and battery #2 went U.S. (that's unservicable, btw - they didn't go on holiday stateside), so I now have 2 unusable flashes. So you sorta see my problem.
Two VB18s from Adorama for $80. Done. If absolute minimum cost is your top priority, that's the way to go. Alternatively, if you don't need the high capacity and fast recycle of a li-ion battery, Adorama's Flashpoint Zoom R2 Manual Flash (Godox TT600) gets you built-in triggering and uses cheap AA NiMH batteries for just $55.
And I'd like to get the old studo brollies back in action again. I used to bounce the flashes into the brollies, and my old teacher told me et the camera for F11.

The other flashes I own are a Metz 45 CL-1, and a Woctron 2800DSF. I also use a Gossen DigiPro F flash/light meter.

The Woctron made for a good back/hair light on a lw tripod behind the subject, fired on a strobe.

Thanks again for your great support.

PS - sorry for any mised letters. I think this keyboard is slowly giving up the ghost!
 
  • Like
Reactions: kli
I posted the following a week ago about my Godox lithium battery difficult to get out of the flash head. It was suggested I had a swollen battery. I will provide the link below:

"My Godox V860 ii lithium battery stiffly slides into the battery compartment but when I push the "white" button, nothing happens. I have actually thought about taking a really fine sandpaper to the sides of the battery but then I thought I might ask here if any others have had this problem and come up with a solution."

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/66104110

I would now recommend to others to not get the V860 ii model as I am out a lithium battery, disposed of the swollen one and now have the inconvenience and expense of purchasing a new lithium battery.
So, I see no reason to "recommend to others to not get the V860 ii model" unless you're going to recommend that others not buy any li-ion-powered flashes at all and instead get ones that use AA NiMH batteries.
Here's the thing, my 860 Godox flash was new, never used, the battery did sit for a year due to cancer treatments and extreme weakness and shaky hands on my part, translation: I could not hold a camera with a flash on it. All my camera lithium batteries sat for the same length of time and after a charge were fine, no swelling.

The battery was charged then put in the flash when I could finally hold the camera/flash but it either swelled while in storage or it was a defaulty battery as others have reported.
 
I posted the following a week ago about my Godox lithium battery difficult to get out of the flash head. It was suggested I had a swollen battery. I will provide the link below:

"My Godox V860 ii lithium battery stiffly slides into the battery compartment but when I push the "white" button, nothing happens. I have actually thought about taking a really fine sandpaper to the sides of the battery but then I thought I might ask here if any others have had this problem and come up with a solution."

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/66104110

I would now recommend to others to not get the V860 ii model as I am out a lithium battery, disposed of the swollen one and now have the inconvenience and expense of purchasing a new lithium battery.
So, I see no reason to "recommend to others to not get the V860 ii model" unless you're going to recommend that others not buy any li-ion-powered flashes at all and instead get ones that use AA NiMH batteries.
Here's the thing, my 860 Godox flash
Was that an original V860 or a MkII?
was new, never used, the battery did sit for a year due to cancer treatments and extreme weakness and shaky hands on my part, translation: I could not hold a camera with a flash on it. All my camera lithium batteries sat for the same length of time and after a charge were fine, no swelling.

The battery was charged then put in the flash when I could finally hold the camera/flash but it either swelled while in storage or it was a defaulty battery as others have reported.
Li-ion batteries need TLC. They are prone to malfunction if they sit fully depleted or fully charged for long periods. One year with no charge in it (it probably self-discharged within months) is bad for such a battery. I don't think your case is indicative of the quality or reliability of Godox batteries made in the past few years.
 
Was that an original V860 or a MkII?
Li-ion batteries need TLC. They are prone to malfunction if they sit fully depleted or fully charged for long periods. One year with no charge in it (it probably self-discharged within months) is bad for such a battery. I don't think your case is indicative of the quality or reliability of Godox batteries made in the past few years.
The flash is the mk ii version.

I know batteries should be given tender loving care, especially my boat batteries at $3000 for 6 of them, but the reality is that many abuse their batteries (camera gear and the like). I can pretty much guarantee you that minimally 50 % of dpreviewers will leave their gear sit longer than they should - discussing batteries here. I have belonged to dpreview since I believe 2014 (under rsn48) and I don't recall anyone discussing camera lithium batteries swelling with problems.

My own personal take is, I and folks who use their camera gear intensely then let the cameras and other photo gear using lithiums sit for long periods of time, shouldn't use lithium batteries. We don't have much choice with our cameras but we do with flashes. But I notice the manufacturers of flashes are moving towards lithium batteries which for the average user I think is a bad idea.

For example, I'm looking at a Neweer studio monolight studio kit and the price is very good. The strobes in this kit are basic and ac plug ins. I was trying to figure out why the kit was such a deal and of course researched the model of monolight in the kit. What I believe to be happening is Neweer is slowly changing over their plug in models to lithium batteries models and dumping the plug ins. And for some who will only occasionally use the studio strobes, they will end up replacing costly lithium batteries over time, perhaps multiple times. Products that use lithium batteries are the gift that keeps on giving for the companies putting out lithium battery dependent products.
 
Hey! Thanks everyone for your amazing replies :)

That sure was a lot of reading.

So here's the thing - very tight budget. Loved the old flash set up, but reight now the transmitters and flashes are heading to the charity shop becaue of the battery issue.

A new AA battery set up with transmitters, like the one outlined above, looked like a good alternative, and replacing dead rechargeable AAs is a cheaper alternative.

That said - a couple of guaranteed working replacement Li-ons would be cheaper than the outlay of the new aforementioned flash set up.

But there are mixed responses - some say new replacement batteries even now are still failing, others have been 100% fine. I tried to get a replacement back in the day (many years ago) and got sent a DOA battery they wouldnt re-replace :(

Where do you find the right replacements? I prefer Amazon, but like one of you said, a seller could be getting rid of old stock.
Forget about Amazon: most sellers are fly-by-night operations, and I suspect their "warranties" are worthless. As I wrote earlier, you can get new VB18 batteries under the Flashpoint brand from Adorama for $40. These will be covered by Adorama's warranty. I try to get all my Godox stuff as Flashpoint-branded gear from Adorama, and they've been very helpful to me in dealing with firmware updates and compatibility issues. As a 20-year pro living in NYC, I get all my new gear from B&H and Adorama. All the many pros I know here do likewise. These two retailers have good reputations among the pro community for good reasons.
The TT units have been in storage a while, and battery #2 went U.S. (that's unservicable, btw - they didn't go on holiday stateside), so I now have 2 unusable flashes. So you sorta see my problem.
Two VB18s from Adorama for $80. Done. If absolute minimum cost is your top priority, that's the way to go. Alternatively, if you don't need the high capacity and fast recycle of a li-ion battery, Adorama's Flashpoint Zoom R2 Manual Flash (Godox TT600) gets you built-in triggering and uses cheap AA NiMH batteries for just $55.
And I'd like to get the old studo brollies back in action again. I used to bounce the flashes into the brollies, and my old teacher told me et the camera for F11.

The other flashes I own are a Metz 45 CL-1, and a Woctron 2800DSF. I also use a Gossen DigiPro F flash/light meter.

The Woctron made for a good back/hair light on a lw tripod behind the subject, fired on a strobe.

Thanks again for your great support.

PS - sorry for any mised letters. I think this keyboard is slowly giving up the ghost!
I'm in the UK, so I don't know if your Adroma place would sell to UK, plus there's all the duty stuff to pay, and would they even ship batteries? Some postal services here don't like shipping batteries.
 
Was that an original V860 or a MkII?

Li-ion batteries need TLC. They are prone to malfunction if they sit fully depleted or fully charged for long periods. One year with no charge in it (it probably self-discharged within months) is bad for such a battery. I don't think your case is indicative of the quality or reliability of Godox batteries made in the past few years.
The flash is the mk ii version.

I know batteries should be given tender loving care, especially my boat batteries at $3000 for 6 of them, but the reality is that many abuse their batteries (camera gear and the like). I can pretty much guarantee you that minimally 50 % of dpreviewers will leave their gear sit longer than they should - discussing batteries here. I have belonged to dpreview since I believe 2014 (under rsn48) and I don't recall anyone discussing camera lithium batteries swelling with problems.

My own personal take is, I and folks who use their camera gear intensely then let the cameras and other photo gear using lithiums sit for long periods of time, shouldn't use lithium batteries.
Or should simply be in the habit of leaving the batteries partially charged and topping them up before use.
We don't have much choice with our cameras but we do with flashes. But I notice the manufacturers of flashes are moving towards lithium batteries which for the average user I think is a bad idea.
Godox makes an AA version of the li-ion V860 - the TT600.
For example, I'm looking at a Neweer studio monolight studio kit and the price is very good. The strobes in this kit are basic and ac plug ins. I was trying to figure out why the kit was such a deal and of course researched the model of monolight in the kit. What I believe to be happening is Neweer is slowly changing over their plug in models to lithium batteries models and dumping the plug ins. And for some who will only occasionally use the studio strobes, they will end up replacing costly lithium batteries over time, perhaps multiple times. Products that use lithium batteries are the gift that keeps on giving for the companies putting out lithium battery dependent products.
How to Get the Most Out of Rechargeable Lithium-Ion Batteries

Neewer doesn't make anything. They rebrand products made by others, including Godox and Jinbei.
 
Hey! Thanks everyone for your amazing replies :)

That sure was a lot of reading.

So here's the thing - very tight budget. Loved the old flash set up, but reight now the transmitters and flashes are heading to the charity shop becaue of the battery issue.

A new AA battery set up with transmitters, like the one outlined above, looked like a good alternative, and replacing dead rechargeable AAs is a cheaper alternative.

That said - a couple of guaranteed working replacement Li-ons would be cheaper than the outlay of the new aforementioned flash set up.

But there are mixed responses - some say new replacement batteries even now are still failing, others have been 100% fine. I tried to get a replacement back in the day (many years ago) and got sent a DOA battery they wouldnt re-replace :(

Where do you find the right replacements? I prefer Amazon, but like one of you said, a seller could be getting rid of old stock.
Forget about Amazon: most sellers are fly-by-night operations, and I suspect their "warranties" are worthless. As I wrote earlier, you can get new VB18 batteries under the Flashpoint brand from Adorama for $40. These will be covered by Adorama's warranty. I try to get all my Godox stuff as Flashpoint-branded gear from Adorama, and they've been very helpful to me in dealing with firmware updates and compatibility issues. As a 20-year pro living in NYC, I get all my new gear from B&H and Adorama. All the many pros I know here do likewise. These two retailers have good reputations among the pro community for good reasons.
The TT units have been in storage a while, and battery #2 went U.S. (that's unservicable, btw - they didn't go on holiday stateside), so I now have 2 unusable flashes. So you sorta see my problem.
Two VB18s from Adorama for $80. Done. If absolute minimum cost is your top priority, that's the way to go. Alternatively, if you don't need the high capacity and fast recycle of a li-ion battery, Adorama's Flashpoint Zoom R2 Manual Flash (Godox TT600) gets you built-in triggering and uses cheap AA NiMH batteries for just $55.
And I'd like to get the old studo brollies back in action again. I used to bounce the flashes into the brollies, and my old teacher told me et the camera for F11.

The other flashes I own are a Metz 45 CL-1, and a Woctron 2800DSF. I also use a Gossen DigiPro F flash/light meter.

The Woctron made for a good back/hair light on a lw tripod behind the subject, fired on a strobe.

Thanks again for your great support.

PS - sorry for any mised letters. I think this keyboard is slowly giving up the ghost!
I'm in the UK, so I don't know if your Adroma place would sell to UK, plus there's all the duty stuff to pay, and would they even ship batteries? Some postal services here don't like shipping batteries.
Is there a retailer of Godox gear in the UK who provides warranty and support?
 
... I'm in the UK, so I don't know if your Adroma place would sell to UK, plus there's all the duty stuff to pay, and would they even ship batteries? Some postal services here don't like shipping batteries.
You can't shop from Adorama in the UK, VAT/duties/shipping will jack the prices up too high. In the UK, the folks who are cover Godox warranties would include:
Of the three, Lencarta's Pixapro seems to be the most-preferred and equivalent to what Adorama's doing in the US.

Stop looking at Neewer. You often cannot tell who makes their gear. It might be Godox, it might also be Voking, Yongnuo, Triopo, Visico, or Meike. You have no idea what's compatible with what, and often if you mix those brands (all labelled together as Neewer), the most control you get is remote firing (as with the flash/trigger combo you linked to in your top post in this thread). If you want to have remote group/power control, let alone TTL/HSS, then everything has to be in the same triggering system.

Godox has AC-powered manual monolights if that's what you want. The MS300 is a very low cost strobe (US$110) in this series. All the Mk II, Mk III, and MS series monolights all have built-in radio triggering in the Godox system that allow for remote power/group/modeling light control.

They also have li-ion powered TTL/HSS strobes if that's what you want. All the AD Witstro lights have built-in radio triggering in the Godox system that allow for power/group/TTL/HSS/modeling light control.

They're all in the same radio system and work together with Godox's speedlights, which is why they're so popular.
 
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I posted the following a week ago about my Godox lithium battery difficult to get out of the flash head. It was suggested I had a swollen battery. I will provide the link below:

"My Godox V860 ii lithium battery stiffly slides into the battery compartment but when I push the "white" button, nothing happens. I have actually thought about taking a really fine sandpaper to the sides of the battery but then I thought I might ask here if any others have had this problem and come up with a solution."

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/66104110

I would now recommend to others to not get the V860 ii model as I am out a lithium battery, disposed of the swollen one and now have the inconvenience and expense of purchasing a new lithium battery.
So, I see no reason to "recommend to others to not get the V860 ii model" unless you're going to recommend that others not buy any li-ion-powered flashes at all and instead get ones that use AA NiMH batteries.
Here's the thing, my 860 Godox flash was new, never used, the battery did sit for a year due to cancer treatments and extreme weakness and shaky hands on my part, translation: I could not hold a camera with a flash on it. All my camera lithium batteries sat for the same length of time and after a charge were fine, no swelling.

The battery was charged then put in the flash when I could finally hold the camera/flash but it either swelled while in storage or it was a defaulty battery as others have reported.
I sincerely hope you are in full recovery now.

My TTs hadnt been used for long periods - so experienced the same swelling issues etc as previously well covered.

I appreciate everyone's assistance with this - you have all been very supportive, which is good for the DP community :)

I think I will stick with the AA options. The camera is used more than the flashes, and AA rechargeables can be rotated (and cheaper to replace) when not in use - and the price of buying new Li-ions every few years ... it will be cheaper long term (for me) to buy a couple of AA units. Then there's the issue where perhaps at some point the Li-ions might get discontinued, then it's back to the beginning of this thread :)

I think 2 * Godox TT600 sounds good.

The transmitter to control them both also looks like a good option: https://shop.godox.co.uk/godox-xpro-n-series-nikon-transmitter.html

I saw another: https://www.parkcameras.com/shop/godox-x2t-n--transmitter-for-nikon_937934g

I use a Nikon D5500.

So, thanks again for you supports - much appreciated :)
 

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