Flash settings

Pilotrob56

Leading Member
Messages
901
Reaction score
275
Location
Florida, US
I found a easy way to adjust the power to my flash, tell me if I am doing it the right way please somebody.

When I first got my TT350 I used Manual mode set to around 1/8-1/16 somewhere in there usually. I would have to manual change settings on flash up or down and some pics would be under exposed or over exposed till I got it right. Then I switched to TTL and started shooting like that and really like the output of the results most of the time. Most of the time they would look good but not always.

I set one of my Fn buttons on top left of my G100 for Flash adjust. What a game changer. Now I shoot in TTL and if a picture is off I can push the Fn button change the power output to my flash and go back to shooting. Having that button set that way has made using a flash so much easier.

I usually shoot manual focus most of the time so the focus light dosen`t come on to scare of the subject.

Does this sound like the best way to adjust a flash? Any suggestions if I should do it differently would be appreciated.
 
If it works it works! Thats the only thing that is important 😎
Three considerations might be predictability, i.e. same light-levels per shot, burst shooting/stacking.


The way TTL-flash works, in case you didn't know, is by means of the camera unleashing a pre-flash that allows it to calculcate flash exposure. That is why it can or will even work with diffusers, softboxes, bounced from a ceiling and so forth. But, it creates a short delay so if timing is crucial it's not ideal. Generally it is not the best approach if you shoot bursts either, also the pre-flash uses some power, meaning fewer shots in a row is possible.


Can you be certain the camera will set the same flash exposure/power each time you fire in a burst? As far as I know some/most cameras will lock all exposure settings including flash when you initiate a burst, but there are variables that may come into play. Manual vs auto exposure settings, MF/AF, AF-C, tracing modes and so forth.

On the other hand, setting up everything manually means its easy to forget that you will have a darker lens at max magnification compared to when you're a little furter away at lower magnifications. Hence you need to change ISO, flash power or aperture to compensate. TTL is likely better able to adjust for that on the fly.

Personally I like the certainty of knowing that I can just fire pretty much without a black frame until the buffer fills with my V350 at 1/16 or lower, but I constantly forget changing ISO to account for focus distance/magnification.


LIke I said, if it works with your setup and approach, everything is just fine. There are more than one way to skin a cat 😊
 
Last edited:

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top