Dust behind the sensor glass... is replacing the CCD the only way to remove this?

I am sure my MFT cameras have dust on their sensors, but I tend to shoot at apertures wider than f/5.6 and so I rarely see them. If the 14-42 is the only lens you own, you may have to live with the spot. Or, see if a used camera body will be a more economical option versus having the sensor replaced.
How could the apreture affect visibility of dust speckles *on the sensor surface*, (or between glass sheets the sensor is made up of?)

That dust particles on lens surfaces can be variously visible by using various apertures, that I do understand, but not how such particles *on the sensor* coluld change visibility from using larger or smaller apertures.

NOTE:

Various *exposure* ( as in various amount of light reaching the sensor) can affect such visibility, of course, but the literal opening or closure of the lens´s aperture would not, I did suppose...

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Aim & Frame ;-)
 
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I am sure my MFT cameras have dust on their sensors, but I tend to shoot at apertures wider than f/5.6 and so I rarely see them. If the 14-42 is the only lens you own, you may have to live with the spot. Or, see if a used camera body will be a more economical option versus having the sensor replaced.
How could the apreture affect visibility of dust speckles *on the sensor surface*, (or between glass sheets the sensor is made up of?)
Not the same thing: "on the sensor surface" is not the same as any distance above it, wherever that may be, including inside the filter stack. The dust casts a shadow onto the sensor whose size depends on both the distance from the sensor and the effective size of the illumination source - smaller apertures make for sharper, more defined shadows.
That dust particles on lens surfaces can be variously visible by using various apertures, that I do understand, but not how such particles *on the sensor* coluld change visibility from using larger or smaller apertures.
It wouldn't if the dust was "on the sensor" - but it isn't.
 
Sorry for the situation. In terms of mirrorless, most usual mean of repair and maintenance is not applicable. Very often buy an used copy would be cheaper than repair one having no more warranty.

Do you buy used? Could you return it?

If the dust is lying in between the filter stacks & the actual sensor (it is a CMOS, not CCD :-) ), wet clean will do nothing.

It would be better to buy something special for M43. Wet cleaning swab for FF or APSC could be too large to use. Usually the cleaning liquid would be part of the kit set. Google can bring up many recommendations.

The last thing you can do is to accept the fault.
Oops for the CMOS//CCD part, I thought I heard him say CCD. 😅

I have looked for used ones, but other than I haven't found the mark 3 models, I'm not sure about buying a new body. This whole journey was because I thought my sister's EM10 looked too good to be just stuck in the wardrobe for years, and for buying new things I will be focusing on lenses and accessories for my other current gears.

I finally found VSGO's cleaning set for micro four-third, I guess I could try it out.

If the dust turns out to be uncleanable, I guess I'll scrap my plans for dedicated 4k recorder and just use it for photos with filters. Been a really long time I was impressed & had fun with taking photos with in-camera filters.

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Did the service guy actually do a wet cleaning, or did he just look at it and tell you it wouldn't work?

The reason I ask is that those spots look way out in front of the glass, in your photo.

If he didn't do a wet cleaning, pick up a cleaning kit and try yourself.
Good advice but I wouldn't be too optimistic.

The dust in my GM5 sensor stack looked exactly the same, and I couldn't work out why I couldn't clean it (I tried all methods). It was only after a really extreme blower session when I noticed the dust had moved slightly I realised it was not on the outside.

It was probably between the SSF and the rest of the stack so looks just like surface dust - but isn't.

As for "repair", I would imagine any reputable IR conversion service would be happy to dismantle and clean as this is exactly what the do anyway - except they don't need to replace the hot mirror. Or of course it could be converted to IR anyway...
I guess the damage is true then. I think I will be buying the cleaning kit after getting some time but... I think I will completely scrap the plans for using it as my another main cam/video cam.
 
Did the service guy actually do a wet cleaning, or did he just look at it and tell you it wouldn't work?

The reason I ask is that those spots look way out in front of the glass, in your photo.

If he didn't do a wet cleaning, pick up a cleaning kit and try yourself.
Good advice but I wouldn't be too optimistic.

The dust in my GM5 sensor stack looked exactly the same, and I couldn't work out why I couldn't clean it (I tried all methods). It was only after a really extreme blower session when I noticed the dust had moved slightly I realised it was not on the outside.

It was probably between the SSF and the rest of the stack so looks just like surface dust - but isn't.

As for "repair", I would imagine any reputable IR conversion service would be happy to dismantle and clean as this is exactly what the do anyway - except they don't need to replace the hot mirror. Or of course it could be converted to IR anyway...
I guess the damage is true then. I think I will be buying the cleaning kit after getting some time but... I think I will completely scrap the plans for using it as my another main cam/video cam.
Yes, definitely try a wet clean. Years ado I had a E-M5 (the original) that acquired a spot that wouldn't shift with a blower or any other dry method but after two wet cleans it was gone. It must have been something really sticky and dried on but the Eclipse fluid eventually broke the bond.

Yours has been there for quite some time so if the first wet clean doesn't seem to work be sure to try several times with a new swab each time before you give up - you have nothing to lose.
 
After a few busy and awful days I decided to visit the service center for a sensor cleaning service. The repair guy was first surprised by my asking of sensor cleaning, and then got surprised by that it's not just a matter of cleaning. He said that the dust is behind the sensor glass and that it would involve replacing the CCD to solve the issue. With a high expected fee I left the store and came back home with the camera.

Thing is, he first said that the reason the dust got stuck is because 'I' blew into the sensor hard to remove the dust. That was before I explained the whole story about the camera but now I'm blaming myself hard for trying to blow out the dust with my blower for solid minutes. Another thing is that the spot is only visible when 1) zoomed in by the lens 2) with 'moderate' exposure during daytime or in lit room. The more I overexpose the less I can see the spot. It's something I haven't experienced at all so I'm still confused about the seriousness of the issue and what to do, etc. I just hope it's a fixable issue without paying a huge fee (which I cannot dare to pay).
Run, don't walk, away from this repair technician. This person is either completely clueless or trying to scam you.
Just posted above, but yeah the issue is this 'technician' is the only Olympus repairman in this entire nation since Olympus left korea in 2020. I guess I could ask for third party repair shops if they can look for cameras other than Canon, Sony and Nikon...
Just buy a sensor gel stick and see if that removes the dust; they're fairly cheap, very effective, and much easier to use than a wet clean.
 
I can't see the spot on your photos. Could you post one photo with the spot circled so I can figure out what I'm looking for? Thanks!

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Marc
 
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I had the same problem on my GX7. Fortunately, the independent repair shop disassembled the sensor stack and cleaned it for me. The only charged around CAD$200-250 which was far less than the work was worth. He said he only did that because I was referred to him by the manager of a camera store who was his friend. He said it required a lot of work and normally would tell the customer that the sensor module would have to be replaced.
 
I can't see the spot on your photos. Could you post one photo with the spot circled so I can figure out what I'm looking for? Thanks!
Sorry for late reply, I don't have the sd card or camera next to me right now but I have shot the images that clearly show the spots.

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I just find it unlikely that you were able to blow all that dust into the layers of the actual sensor stack. Furthermore, your sample shots at various apertures look very similar to what happens when I’ve gotten dust on the surface of my sensor – dust that I have cleaned off with a $20 sensor cleaning kit. It takes about five minutes to do.

Another way to look at it: if your sensor does have dust inside the sensor stack, a wet cleaning isn’t going to make it worse, or make the repair/replacement more costly. If the dust is not inside the sensor stack, then a cleaning will likely remove it.
 
I just find it unlikely that you were able to blow all that dust into the layers of the actual sensor stack. Furthermore, your sample shots at various apertures look very similar to what happens when I’ve gotten dust on the surface of my sensor – dust that I have cleaned off with a $20 sensor cleaning kit. It takes about five minutes to do.

Another way to look at it: if your sensor does have dust inside the sensor stack, a wet cleaning isn’t going to make it worse, or make the repair/replacement more costly. If the dust is not inside the sensor stack, then a cleaning will likely remove it.
Got my hopes up again, when the cleaning kit arrives in few days I'll see if the 'miracle' happens and make this Olympus my companion.
 
Seems like a poor design if dust etc can get inside the sensor module where it can not be easily removed.
greg
 
Seems like a poor design if dust etc can get inside the sensor module where it can not be easily removed.
greg
The outermost layer is the SSWF which by definition must be able to move, so there is a gap between the SSWF and the rest of the filter stack. From new it should be surrounded by a seal but it's possible that the seal may develop gaps over time due to wear, enough to allow dust to get in. Once inside it is almost certain to be forced further into the image area by the normal action of the SSWF.

Some models like the Panasonic GM1/5 did have a design defect with a gap in the seal from new, but I'm not aware of this in any Olympus cameras.
 
More information in this Micro Four Thirds Talk post from 2015:

 

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