Does temperature affect auto focus fine tuning?

larrywilson

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The temperature has dropped well below freezing here which is unusual to be as cold as it has been for several days now. I practice my long lenses technic in my back yard and noticed that my small birds were slightly out of focus. I thought that I had everything in tune, but I had to adjust the fine tune because of front focus. The focus seems right on at this time.

I did the original fine tuning by using the automated fine tune process on a target shooting 12 times and taking an average throwing out a couple of the out liners.

This time in the cold I just shot my small birds and I like to shoot my wood fence that is just a little off line using the screw heads as a target. I finally came up with an adjusted fine tuning value that eliminated the front focus showing up.

The above statements is the reason I am asking if temperature can change the focus tuning on a camera?

Thanks

Larry
 
Before going further I am going to flag up a D5/500 relative weakness for bird photography.

With a D7200/810 you can use any AF point you want including multi points when focus tracking.

With a D500/5 with a lens like the 500 AF only the central 15 cross type AF points work as distinct from illuminating in the viewfinder :( limiting tracking a moving subject to a form of centre weighted screen coverage.

The limitations are on pages 98-101 of the D500 Manual.

While not directly related to the topic I suggest any "serious" bird photographer should consider this D5/500 limitation as part of an upgrade decision.
You keep saying you must have a good target. I do not think you are right. It helps but there are ways that don't require the ultimate.
I agree in the field "the ultimate" is not always possible.

On the other hand when testing it helps to use a subject where AF is likely to perform well.
instead just wanted to evaluate my AF performance on the D500. I normally shoot birds. Therefore I need a typical bird as a target. I cant find one that will sit still for 2 hours so I get a cardboard box with some good lettering/images and a steel ruler. Most birds are unhappy if you put a ruler next to them. Set up the D500/500mmF4 on a reasonably steady tripod. Take 10 shots focussing on a good contrast area(focussing to infinity in between each shot) and then look at the field in focus on the steel rule at 45 degrees. With spot on focus there should be the same distance on the ruler in focus in front of the focal plane to what is behind. What I am interested in is how much does the center of the focal range move forward or back between each shot.
With a "perfect target in perfect test conditions" (not real world) there should be negligible variation.

A problem with a 45 degree rule coming from infinity is AF locks on the first area of contrast it can read, which may be a little further away than the intended mark on the rule.

What the variation ratio might be could depend on how steady the camera/lens is locked on a tripod.

It could also vary with the camera body. The D500 has more bur smaller AF points than the D800/810. My experience is the D500 can accurately lock on smaller areas of detail than the D810.

The D500 AF could be capable of locking on further out from the intended line than the 810, resulting in more inconsistency with this type of test. A variation like this does not make either camera AF good or bad. It shows they work different with some subjects. Which is best for a particular type of subject is down to experience and to the photographer.
….But when I am shooting birds, I don't get the chance to say 'your not a good target, can you move round a bit'. I am stuck with what I am shooting. I expect the body to give me a good focus at least 90% of the time or more. My experience with Nikon DSLRs over the past 4 years is that their AF is good enough to focus on very low contrast brown birds in bushes providing branches dont get in the way. A cardboard box is much better.
I agree AF is constantly getting better, particularly with low contrast subjects.

Current AF is significantly more capable than with my F100 in 1999.
Leonard, when you shoot birds, what % of shots do you expect in focus – for a static bird at 5-15m ?
How long is a piece of string?

Static birds large in the frame in good light are easy - around 99%.

Large birds which fly slowly, like a stork, often around 90%.

Small acrobatic birds like swallows mobbing a cat - very low - but worth trying.

Swallows feeding young while in flight on a predictable flight path during the half second they hang in the air to put food in a chicks mouth maybe 80%, ignoring perfect timing, framing and is the bird facing the right way :(

Digressing again in the UK it is relatively easy to "change" the odds for around £200 a day.

In July you can get gannets diving for fish from a small boat having paid the boatman to throw fish into the sea nearby. The gannets soon learn which boats bring an easy meal and when.

At one location trout are kept in a pool surrounded by reeds - and a photography platform. The "guide" with a walkie-talkie advises which direction an Osprey is coming from and when, making it relatively easy at 10 fps to capture an otherwise once in 5 years chance of an Osprey taking a fish from water.

There are UK "set-ups" for kingfisher taking fish from water, or a Sparrow Hawk feeding on a goldfinch - with the goldfinch nailed to a photogenic branch!

I appreciate this is not "wildlife photography" as you do it, and it requires relatively little of an AF system. Even so it does take place.
This way of testing however, lets you see just how repeatable your combo is. What I saw today was somewhere in the region of 10% of shots outside of the focal plane I was aiming for (ie the front to back of the field in view was forward of the average centre point for that fine tune setting). That was based on around 100 shots. Last time I did this with the 800E my recollection was that the 800E was better (none out of that range?).
What you are trying to measure is the often very important difference between technical AF efficiency and your "real world" use in less than perfect shooting conditions.
The bottom line however is that the combo must focus quickly and accurately when the next Baird's sandpiper turns up as it is likely to be a lifetime shot. I cannot think – oh, the target isn't on the list that Nikon recommend for this body!!!! (and I don't think a Baird's sandpiper is on that list). Knowing the capability of the body on poor targets is important to me and this test method helps me understand how often I can expect perfect performance.
What you perhaps have not mentioned is knowledge at the basic level of what a Baird's Sandpiper looks like, or at the higher level of where you might see one, in addition to knowing exactly how your equipment works the way you shoot based on regular usage.
Given your experience of these DSLR's – and you have been around the DR forum as long as I have – how do you think the repeatability of getting the target focal plane in the field in focus is - with varying target contrast?
I still have not found an AF system that can detect the bright yellow but lacking any contrast or leaf separation in a globe flower (an uncommon form of UK buttercup). Whether this summer the D500 can do it remains to be seen.
 
Thanks for taking the time Andy. I would love to see a picture of your box setup, and how you attatch the ruler at a 45 degree angle to the side of the box. Thanks again.

--
Ernie Misner
http://www.flickr.com/photos/erniemisner/
Nice flicker page Ernie. I really like the Lenticular cloud one!

Here is the set up I used.

9fcca347ecb84b7ea640d38101fbfb66.jpg

I have shrunk it to 1600*1000 - no cropping. The Box is place so it right angles to the combo both vertically and horizontally (it was a big cardboard box). The steel tape is then laid on the ground at sort of 45 degrees (not critical as long as it is straight). Select AFS - S so we are using only the centre focus point. If you then focus on anywhere on the box - lets call that the target focal plane - and take a shot, if you have good AF fine tune, then the shot should be focussed on that plane and there will be a range of numbers on the tape in focus. (I focussed on the 'heart').

This was one of my first shots and my fine tune was set on 0 and I knew it front focussing slightly.

If you zoom in to this shot you will see the numbers 10 to 17 in sharpest focus. As the dof is 50% in front/behind -the 'tested' focal plane is in front of the box (ie at 13.5) - I am using the inch numbers on the top of the tape.

Take 10 shots like this and record the numbers in focus. It should be fairly repeatable. If it is then you can make decisions on the fine tune position. In this case we are front focussed so change the fine focus to +10 and repeat. I ended up with +8 as my setting to get the tested focal plane the same as the target focal plane.

The interesting point though is that in doing this set up I ended up with 10 out of 100 with the area in focus completely in front of the average tested focal plane viz the next image.

3217f8b89b7147cc8ffcd957f637e835.jpg

In this shot (again at fine tune of 0 so expecting the tested focal plane to be around 13.5) we have the numbers 14-20 in focus ie the 13.5 plane is not in focus therefore I would have missed the focus on what I was shooting at. If this had been a bird I would have missed focus 10% of the time.

Perhaps the light was not good. Perhaps the box had too much gloss - but I remember my 800E was always 100% on this test. I will spend som time checking this over Christmas and post my results. I think this is a great way to understand how your camera is working with a big lens. Keep the ss up at 1/2000 to avoid camera shake softness and then its all down to the AF. Take lots of shots and focus at infinity in between each.

Larry's technique in the OP is very similar using a fence. In my case knew my fine tune with the 1.4 TC was going to be near +20 so I wanted to do it quantitatively, hence the ruler. The benefit of Larry's method is that you can test the AF variation at larger distances ie at more than 40ft the lettering becomes to small to be quantitative.

--
Andy

 
You may want to check your facts before spreading misinformation like this. The only thing that gets limited is the number of cross-sensor focus points.
Apologies for my error - I should of course have referred to cross sensors being extremely limited with some TC combinations.
 
Thanks for taking the time Andy. I would love to see a picture of your box setup, and how you attatch the ruler at a 45 degree angle to the side of the box. Thanks again.

--
Ernie Misner
http://www.flickr.com/photos/erniemisner/
Nice flicker page Ernie. I really like the Lenticular cloud one!

Here is the set up I used.

9fcca347ecb84b7ea640d38101fbfb66.jpg

I have shrunk it to 1600*1000 - no cropping. The Box is place so it right angles to the combo both vertically and horizontally (it was a big cardboard box). The steel tape is then laid on the ground at sort of 45 degrees (not critical as long as it is straight). Select AFS - S so we are using only the centre focus point. If you then focus on anywhere on the box - lets call that the target focal plane - and take a shot, if you have good AF fine tune, then the shot should be focussed on that plane and there will be a range of numbers on the tape in focus. (I focussed on the 'heart').

This was one of my first shots and my fine tune was set on 0 and I knew it front focussing slightly.

If you zoom in to this shot you will see the numbers 10 to 17 in sharpest focus. As the dof is 50% in front/behind -the 'tested' focal plane is in front of the box (ie at 13.5) - I am using the inch numbers on the top of the tape.

Take 10 shots like this and record the numbers in focus. It should be fairly repeatable. If it is then you can make decisions on the fine tune position. In this case we are front focussed so change the fine focus to +10 and repeat. I ended up with +8 as my setting to get the tested focal plane the same as the target focal plane.

The interesting point though is that in doing this set up I ended up with 10 out of 100 with the area in focus completely in front of the average tested focal plane viz the next image.

3217f8b89b7147cc8ffcd957f637e835.jpg

In this shot (again at fine tune of 0 so expecting the tested focal plane to be around 13.5) we have the numbers 14-20 in focus ie the 13.5 plane is not in focus therefore I would have missed the focus on what I was shooting at. If this had been a bird I would have missed focus 10% of the time.

Perhaps the light was not good. Perhaps the box had too much gloss - but I remember my 800E was always 100% on this test. I will spend som time checking this over Christmas and post my results. I think this is a great way to understand how your camera is working with a big lens. Keep the ss up at 1/2000 to avoid camera shake softness and then its all down to the AF. Take lots of shots and focus at infinity in between each.

Larry's technique in the OP is very similar using a fence. In my case knew my fine tune with the 1.4 TC was going to be near +20 so I wanted to do it quantitatively, hence the ruler. The benefit of Larry's method is that you can test the AF variation at larger distances ie at more than 40ft the lettering becomes to small to be quantitative.

--
Andy

http://andyburnsphotography.zenfolio.com/portfolio/h417dcf38#h417dcf38
Thank you very much for the photos of the setup Andy! Just what I wanted to see. Do you actually set the box on the ground when in use? The camera would have to be nearly on the ground too. Also, so you take a shot using LV to verify that your ruler is perfect with the edge of the box or not? Too bad the Auto AF Fine Tune feature isn't up to the task, but this looks pretty foolproof. BTW, your zenfolio images are stunning! Thanks again.



--
Ernie Misner
 
...snip....
Larry's technique in the OP is very similar using a fence. In my case knew my fine tune with the 1.4 TC was going to be near +20 so I wanted to do it quantitatively, hence the ruler. The benefit of Larry's method is that you can test the AF variation at larger distances ie at more than 40ft the lettering becomes to small to be quantitative.
 
The temperature has dropped well below freezing here which is unusual to be as cold as it has been for several days now. I practice my long lenses technic in my back yard and noticed that my small birds were slightly out of focus. I thought that I had everything in tune, but I had to adjust the fine tune because of front focus. The focus seems right on at this time.

I did the original fine tuning by using the automated fine tune process on a target shooting 12 times and taking an average throwing out a couple of the out liners.

This time in the cold I just shot my small birds and I like to shoot my wood fence that is just a little off line using the screw heads as a target. I finally came up with an adjusted fine tuning value that eliminated the front focus showing up.

The above statements is the reason I am asking if temperature can change the focus tuning on a camera?

Thanks

Larry
Thanks for the people who commented to "does temperature differences affect auto focus fine tuning"?

Larry
 
...snip....
Larry's technique in the OP is very similar using a fence. In my case knew my fine tune with the 1.4 TC was going to be near +20 so I wanted to do it quantitatively, hence the ruler. The benefit of Larry's method is that you can test the AF variation at larger distances ie at more than 40ft the lettering becomes to small to be quantitative.
 
Anybody else to comment on the subject of temperature affects on auto focus fine tuning?

Larry
 
Anybody else to comment on the subject of temperature affects on auto focus fine tuning?

Larry
Larry,

My comment isn't specifically about temperature effects, but... I think the list of possible factors could be bigger. I sometimes track a BIF that goes over my head in a 180 degree vertical arc - or - I shoot nearly vertical at birds perched on an overhead tree branch. That causes me to wonder about the effect of gravity on the lens elements that move to perform AF. I.e., I assume the AF system is programmed to know how much electrical energy to apply to the SWM in order to move a lens element (of differing but known mass) a certain distance. Most of us perform AF Fine Tune testing with the camera in a (more or less) horizontal position. Physics tells me that it takes more energy to move a lens element in the vertical upward direction a given distance - than it does horizontal (and certainly more than when the lens is pointed downward). Friction also could be a factor - how consistently does the internal lubricant work- and does viscosity change with temperature? How good is the voltage regulation of the camera's SWM circuitry - as the battery is used and the voltage drops, is voltage regulation performed to ensure a stable power supply to the SWM? If I perform AFFT 100 times in a row - I get a sort of bell curve in terms of where the focus lands: front of target, dead on, and behind target. Resigning myself to the inherent inconsistency of AF, I just pick a +- fine tune value at the top of the curve. Since my head starts to hurt around this time, I quit worrying about it. :-) But, yes - it would be good to know definitively whether temperature makes a significant enough difference.

Aloha,

Roy
 
Anybody else to comment on the subject of temperature affects on auto focus fine tuning?

Larry
Larry,

it is interesting that despite nearly 40 replies, there has been no specific evidence that a big change in temp 'shifts' the focus point therefore requires a fine tune change. Lots of evidence of heat effects on images but not a focus change. I cant remember any discussion on this in the last 4 years (since we had this fine tune capability). Maybe temp doesnt affect it or this surely would have surfaced earlier.

As I said earlier, someone needs to put their combo in the freezer!

Have a great Christmas Larry.
 
Anybody else to comment on the subject of temperature affects on auto focus fine tuning?

Larry
Larry,

it is interesting that despite nearly 40 replies, there has been no specific evidence that a big change in temp 'shifts' the focus point therefore requires a fine tune change. Lots of evidence of heat effects on images but not a focus change. I cant remember any discussion on this in the last 4 years (since we had this fine tune capability). Maybe temp doesnt affect it or this surely would have surfaced earlier.

As I said earlier, someone needs to put their combo in the freezer!

Have a great Christmas Larry.
 
Anybody else to comment on the subject of temperature affects on auto focus fine tuning?

Larry
Larry,

My comment isn't specifically about temperature effects, but... I think the list of possible factors could be bigger
I'm pretty sure this is also true. It's quite difficult to isolate all the variables in the real world. Quite a few of these variables include 'us the photographer'
Friction also could be a factor - how consistently does the internal lubricant work- and does viscosity change with temperature?
As a curiosity aside: viscosity of oils can change a great deal with temperature but I believe modern AF lenses are lubricant free because any oil creates more resistance for AF motors. Allegedly, this is part of the reason why AF lenses rattle whereas old MF lenses are so much smoother! Back when lenses were nicely lubricated I remember, from reading mountaineering and exploration books, those tough photographers sending their gear away to be 'winterised' (i.e. change lubricants). Haven't heard this being done for a long time!
If I perform AFFT 100 times in a row - I get a sort of bell curve in terms of where the focus lands: front of target, dead on, and behind target. Resigning myself to the inherent inconsistency of AF, I just pick a +- fine tune value at the top of the curve. Since my head starts to hurt around this time, I quit worrying about it. :-) But, yes - it would be good to know definitively whether temperature makes a significant enough difference.
A bell curve is precisely the result I'd expect to get by doing what you describe. It's what you should always get when undertaking and measuring a physical process. You are absolutely right in selecting the top of the curve as your tuning value. The main issue here is whether the bell curve is nice and tight with a steep curve ad high peak (good) or low and wide (bad).
 
Anybody else to comment on the subject of temperature affects on auto focus fine tuning?

Larry
Larry,

it is interesting that despite nearly 40 replies, there has been no specific evidence that a big change in temp 'shifts' the focus point therefore requires a fine tune change. Lots of evidence of heat effects on images but not a focus change. I cant remember any discussion on this in the last 4 years (since we had this fine tune capability). Maybe temp doesnt affect it or this surely would have surfaced earlier.

As I said earlier, someone needs to put their combo in the freezer!

Have a great Christmas Larry.
 
my conclusion is that I was indeed, as I mentioned as a possibility, having a (self-induced) bad day. Lesson learnt. On the up side, I'm feeling a lot happier about again about the capability of the D500 plus the 200-500.
We all have the occasional "bad day" :(

My perspective is to carefully test equipment, as you have done, to clarify if it was a bad day or if an item of equipment has developed a fault.
 
Anybody else to comment on the subject of temperature affects on auto focus fine tuning?

Larry
Larry,

it is interesting that despite nearly 40 replies, there has been no specific evidence that a big change in temp 'shifts' the focus point therefore requires a fine tune change. Lots of evidence of heat effects on images but not a focus change. I cant remember any discussion on this in the last 4 years (since we had this fine tune capability). Maybe temp doesnt affect it or this surely would have surfaced earlier.

As I said earlier, someone needs to put their combo in the freezer!

Have a great Christmas Larry.
 
Anybody else to comment on the subject of temperature affects on auto focus fine tuning?

Larry
Larry,

it is interesting that despite nearly 40 replies, there has been no specific evidence that a big change in temp 'shifts' the focus point therefore requires a fine tune change. Lots of evidence of heat effects on images but not a focus change. I cant remember any discussion on this in the last 4 years (since we had this fine tune capability). Maybe temp doesnt affect it or this surely would have surfaced earlier.

As I said earlier, someone needs to put their combo in the freezer!

Have a great Christmas Larry.

--
Andy
........snip

So results: well today I'm much happier with the results but why is that:

1) Temperature was 5 deg C higher than last time so today it was only 20 degrees C not 25 degrees lower (last time). BUT, I plagued around with test shots (on sturdy tripod) adjusting AFFT around my calibrated value. Here, adding or subtracting '5' from the AFFT did make a difference and in both cases it was worse than the calibrated value (which is actually -5). So, even though the temp was different by 5 degrees I don't think I can blame it on the temperature variation. If (and they probably are) any temperature effects are linear I really don't think that extra 5 degrees is going to suddenly throw then lens out compared with today where I could see no change from the calibrated value after a 20 degree change.

2) So, had anything else changed? well yes. Last time I was shooting hand held and had VR on. Today, I shot on a tripod with smooth pan/tilt head, no VR. In both cases, shutter speeds speeds were between 1/2000-1/5000. ISO800 - 1600, aperture 5.6 - 8

My usual approach for BIF with the 200-500 is monopod or tripod. So, I think, handheld, usually shooting up at an angle, it was problem with me. Just getting too comfortable with thinking I could reliably handhold at 500mm for several hours.

So my conclusion is that I was indeed, as I mentioned as a possibility, having a (self-induced) bad day. Lesson learnt. On the up side, I'm feeling a lot happier about again about the capability of the D500 plus the 200-500.
.....snip

Richard,

That is an interesting post. Low temps and VR? Is it significant that VR was on when you had the issue and was good when it was off?
Well, I don't know! It was something I'd changed between the two sessions. Normally I don't use VR above 1/800, so I just reverted to that to get back to my standard approach.

I suspect VR wasn't the issue because I've not had an issue with it at high shutter speeds before and its undoubatably valuable at slower.
A few years ago using a D800E and an 80-400g, I had a very off day with very mushy shots coming from using VR on (I always then shot at ss of 1/1600 for birds). The following day, the only change was I replaced the 70% depleted battery with a full one. Perfect results. At the time a number of people were reporting mushy images and no one every pinned it down to anything in particular, and I was never able to reproduce these results - never seeing mushy images again.

I wonder if we are seeing something similar here. In cold weather battery voltage will drop and maybe if battery voltage is at the lower end, could this be causing mushy shots with VR on at high ss? If you think about it, VR will require a fair bit of power and if the voltage is low then is there enough power for everything else?

The lesson I learnt was to keep my battery in the top 50% of charge and not to use VR with high ss. Never had the 'mushy' image problem since.
Curious, might be something in that. I do recall battery was low at the end of the day and wasn't completely fresh at the start. Yesterday's one was freshly charged.
I've only just got my D500 so have been looking at all the past posts on the auto Fine tune, - and not convinced it is that reliable, needing a spot on focus with LV to give anything like repeatable answers.
I've tried it a fair bit and have used it alongside FoCal. They have correlated closely. I find auto tune is reliable so long as 1) you use a very rigid tripod and head, especially with long lenses (seems very susceptible to vibration), and 2) repeat 6-8 times on auto, discard any outliers and see if readings settle to a close range. If they don't, problem it is probably 1!
I think I will stick to the manual method.

Where are you shooting the kites? Up at Gigrin Farm?
No, Thames Valley and the Chiltern's. Red kites have been one of the great conservation successes and in winter, quite large totally wild groups can be seen. No longer need to go to Wales!
 
I find auto tune is reliable so long as 1) you use a very rigid tripod and head, especially with long lenses (seems very susceptible to vibration), and 2) repeat 6-8 times on auto, discard any outliers and see if readings settle to a close range.
It is easy to "cheat" or confuse auto fine tune accuracy :(

It is important to have lines parallel to the short dimension of the frame in the target area.

With a target consisting only of single lines phase detect normally reads them well if horizontal or vertical.

Live view does not read lines well if they are parallel to the long dimension of the frame.

Using a target consisting only of lines in one direction I get nil correction with the lines parallel to the short dimension, and an average of -8 with the lines parallel to the long dimension.
 
I wonder if we are seeing something similar here. In cold weather battery voltage will drop and maybe if battery voltage is at the lower end, could this be causing mushy shots with VR on at high ss? If you think about it, VR will require a fair bit of power and if the voltage is low then is there enough power for everything else?

The lesson I learnt was to keep my battery in the top 50% of charge and not to use VR with high ss. Never had the 'mushy' image problem since.
Curious, might be something in that. I do recall battery was low at the end of the day and wasn't completely fresh at the start. Yesterday's one was freshly charged.
That's interesting. Similar effect to what I saw. I never repeated the problem as I always keep my batteries at the top end so I dont loose any important shots. I wonder if this was a significant variable or just another red herring?
Where are you shooting the kites? Up at Gigrin Farm?
No, Thames Valley and the Chiltern's. Red kites have been one of the great conservation successes and in winter, quite large totally wild groups can be seen. No longer need to go to Wales!
 
I find auto tune is reliable so long as 1) you use a very rigid tripod and head, especially with long lenses (seems very susceptible to vibration), and 2) repeat 6-8 times on auto, discard any outliers and see if readings settle to a close range.
It is easy to "cheat" or confuse auto fine tune accuracy :(

It is important to have lines parallel to the short dimension of the frame in the target area.

With a target consisting only of single lines phase detect normally reads them well if horizontal or vertical.

Live view does not read lines well if they are parallel to the long dimension of the frame.

Using a target consisting only of lines in one direction I get nil correction with the lines parallel to the short dimension, and an average of -8 with the lines parallel to the long dimension.
 
Dr Bob wrote;

whilst I usually use 'any' target for fine tune, I want to check the repeatability of the 500 on the 'best' target and see how the repeatability suffers as the target changes. What do you recommend as the best target. I have printed off Horshack's target and the FoCal target. Either of those 'the best' in your opinion - or what else?
There is no one answer as to what is best.

Auto fine tune first.

I cannot find the Nikon F5 link to the suggested target for using auto fine tune. From memory it was as basic as an approximately 5 inch wide card in a frame similar to the size of an adult.

Auto fine tune works on the assumption that fine tune always gets perfect focus, even though it may not.

My testing is still based on phase detect using a high quality print out with the black square 1 3/8th inch tall in an 3x2 foot frame. I use the target with one printed at half the image size alongside to get read-outs up 200 lpm. I also put targets in the corner of the frame to check what is happening in the frame corners.

Low quality jpeg of target. Focus to left of centre on black square)
Low quality jpeg of target. Focus to left of centre on black square)

This target may not be suitable for what you have in mind :(

It has the limitation of needing to be photographed at 27 x focal length for an accurate readout. This is close to 42 feet focus distance with a 500mm which is greater than most indoor room sizes. I used to have access to a 70 foot concrete floor room. Now I am restricted to about 5 days a year with negligible wind for outdoor testing longer than 300mm.

In optimum conditions (concrete floor, Gitzo Series 5, shutter delay and mirror up for me) with a good for testing target I get 90% repeatability.

Your dilemma is your bird photography is not in optimum conditions.

Have a good Christmas :)

--
Leonard Shepherd
Good photography is usually more about what you do with the equipment you own rather than what equipment you own.
 
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