Does anyone else wish they had "ISO Priority" or some sort of fully-custom programmable Auto?

[NetMage]

BTW, as far as custom programmable Auto mode goes, the scene modes are pretty much that.

I have wished on more advanced cameras (especially those lacking scene modes like my 7D) that Canon had multiple or use programmable exposure modes for emphasizing shutter speed (high or low) or aperture size (high or low) or middle of the road (which is the only current choice). Perhaps ISO high or low would be an option as well. Combine a couple of these to create what are essentially user defined scene modes for the important exposure variables.

 

[CreeDo]

Your camera supports Auto ISO, and should select the lowest ISO consistent with metering. Unfortunately, Canon doesn't support EC with M mode, and your camera doesn;t support direct access to EC.

I really think you need a two dial camera like a 60D or 70D, which would give you direct access to EC or to aperture and shutter in M mode, and you could leave ISO to the camera at that point.

 

[NetMage]

That is what EC is for - unless you are finding the meter fluctuating wildly from one photo to the next, when you are in a shooting situation, you set the EC to make the meter right for you. When you change lighting, you change the EC.

Then with the meter right you can let it handle auto ISO. Again, unfortunately EC doesn't work in M mode with Canon (dumb decision).

Also, a camera with two dials makes EC handling much easier when you need to change it on the fly.

 

[Osvaldo Cristo]

Maybe some camera already does this.

If there's one setting I'm changing all day constantly, it's ISO.
But my camera noticeably lacks a simple wheel to scroll ISO up and down.
I think nicer cameras have this.

There are many times I'm walking around where shutter speed is who-cares (just the bare minimum to avoid shutter shake, let's say 200). And aperture is mostly-don't-care (would love to be at f8 all day unless forced to open up).

Right now, changing ISO is too much menu navigation.

What I'd love is:

- Moving the wheel controls ISO.

- Aperture is fixed unless I press and hold a button, and then scroll the wheel (just like manual)

- Camera decides shutter speed based on desired exposure.

- Most important (and this is why I can't do this on manual or other modes): shutter speed never ever drops below, say, 200. So shutter shake is no problem. I'd love a programmable auto where I can say "never go below ___ or above ___ on ISO" or "never go below ___ in shutter speed". I also would like to exclude f-stops higher than 11 because you can see everything get soft due to diffraction and using f22 or whatever is sort of a specialty case, not for automatic everyday shooting.

Maybe a smart programmable auto mode that obeys those rules, but also detects for example that the scene is too dark, and at 200 shutter speed it will come out way underexposed, so it automatically bumps ISO even though I forgot to scroll the wheel.

Am I the only one who'd like this?

I am a Nikon user and for years I use that. I guess other manufacturers have something equivalent:

• P mode: you can fix ISO (or not - when using auto ISO) and the camera system decide S and A. For your convenience you can use flexible program to control S and/or A according to your taste
• S mode: you can fix ISO (or not - when using auto ISO) and the camera decide A
• A mode: you can fix ISO (or not - when using auto ISO) and the camera decide S
• M mode: you decide A and S and with auto ISO on the camera decide ISO

For me that is so flexible I cannot see what to add to increase the current flexibility.

All the best,

 

[NetMage]

Assume you are in A mode with Auto ISO - you pick A, and the camera picks S and ISO.

There are a range of S and ISO values that will yield a good image, given the EV of the scene you are photographing. How does the camera select?

With proper customizability, you could tell the camera to prefer faster or slower shutter speeds, based on whether you are photographing fast moving subjects, and whether you want some motion in your shots. In P mode, having a user selectable bias is even more useful.

 

[22codfish]

[No message]

 

[TacticDesigns]

If I'm understanding you correctly . . .

Nikon already has that.

On many models, there is an "ISO" button that you press. Then use the rear e-dial to change ISO setting. If you are on A-priority mode, then your Aperture is fixed, the shutter speed adjusts for exposure with the ISO and aperture you selected. That's what I use on my Nikon D7000. (And D90 and D70s before.)

On entry-level models, you can re-assign the "FN" button to be the ISO button and do the same thing. That's what I do on my Nikon D5100.

All done without lifting your eye away from the OVF.

 

[kalpeshmodi]

Get Pentax

 

[Russian Consortium]

Maybe some camera already does this.

If there's one setting I'm changing all day constantly, it's ISO.
But my camera noticeably lacks a simple wheel to scroll ISO up and down.
I think nicer cameras have this.

There are many times I'm walking around where shutter speed is who-cares (just the bare minimum to avoid shutter shake, let's say 200). And aperture is mostly-don't-care (would love to be at f8 all day unless forced to open up).

Right now, changing ISO is too much menu navigation.

What I'd love is:

- Moving the wheel controls ISO.

- Aperture is fixed unless I press and hold a button, and then scroll the wheel (just like manual)

- Camera decides shutter speed based on desired exposure.

- Most important (and this is why I can't do this on manual or other modes): shutter speed never ever drops below, say, 200. So shutter shake is no problem. I'd love a programmable auto where I can say "never go below ___ or above ___ on ISO" or "never go below ___ in shutter speed". I also would like to exclude f-stops higher than 11 because you can see everything get soft due to diffraction and using f22 or whatever is sort of a specialty case, not for automatic everyday shooting.

Maybe a smart programmable auto mode that obeys those rules, but also detects for example that the scene is too dark, and at 200 shutter speed it will come out way underexposed, so it automatically bumps ISO even though I forgot to scroll the wheel.

Am I the only one who'd like this?

You need a Pentax. TAv mode is a beautiful thing.

 

[Chris Malcolm]

I never did because I've never had a digital camera in which there wasn't an easy way to do that. I guess I must have been lucky in my purchases. Or maybe it's because I read the camera manuals carefully.

 

[Allan Olesen]

There are many times I'm walking around where shutter speed is who-cares (just the bare minimum to avoid shutter shake, let's say 200). And aperture is mostly-don't-care (would love to be at f8 all day unless forced to open up).

... Let me get this straight ... you don't care what the shutter speed is and you don't care what the f-stop is, but for some reason, you care what the ISO is ?

I got what the OP is getting at because I share his concern. Because of this concern, I set very high ISO by default and occasionally upgrade my camera when a higher max ISO model comes around. High ISO is the best thing invented since cheese.

Why? If you and the OP don't care what the shutter speed is, you can just use base ISO and A mode and accept whatever shutter speed you get.

 

[mostlyboringphotog]

There are many times I'm walking around where shutter speed is who-cares (just the bare minimum to avoid shutter shake, let's say 200). And aperture is mostly-don't-care (would love to be at f8 all day unless forced to open up).

... Let me get this straight ... you don't care what the shutter speed is and you don't care what the f-stop is, but for some reason, you care what the ISO is ?

I got what the OP is getting at because I share his concern. Because of this concern, I set very high ISO by default and occasionally upgrade my camera when a higher max ISO model comes around. High ISO is the best thing invented since cheese.

Why? If you and the OP don't care what the shutter speed is, you can just use base ISO and A mode and accept whatever shutter speed you get.

I believe OP wants at least 1/200 shutter speed, shorter than that is also OK...

I think the Nikon minimum shutter speed, auto ISO mode is DX and up; Nikon V/J 1 does not seem to have this ISO auto mode.

 

[AlphaTikal]

You don't care shutter speed and aperture, which are important like framing?! But you care about noise? ... Ok.

I know some higher models have the possibility to set limits for low and high iso, i.e. 100-400. My compact can do it and the Sony A77.
--
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· (All photos are creative common licensed. Check them out.)
· English is not my native language.

 

[AlphaTikal]

Just checked it on my RX100. I can give to the lens ring iso functionality. And with Auto Iso and custom limits, you should have what you searched for. But the lens ring does work as setting the iso to fix value or going back to auto.
--
· http://www.flickr.com/photos/blackhole_eater/
· (All photos are creative common licensed. Check them out.)
· English is not my native language.

 

[Peter Jonas]

Maybe some camera already does this.

If there's one setting I'm changing all day constantly, it's ISO.
But my camera noticeably lacks a simple wheel to scroll ISO up and down.
I think nicer cameras have this.

There are many times I'm walking around where shutter speed is who-cares (just the bare minimum to avoid shutter shake, let's say 200). And aperture is mostly-don't-care (would love to be at f8 all day unless forced to open up).

Right now, changing ISO is too much menu navigation.

What I'd love is:

- Moving the wheel controls ISO.

Nikon DSLRs have this. It's called Easy ISO. Only catch with this, you need two command wheels.

- Aperture is fixed unless I press and hold a button, and then scroll the wheel (just like manual)

Then you put the Nikon in A mode and you select the aperture with the other command wheel.

- Camera decides shutter speed based on desired exposure.

Yes!

Here is what I used to do with Easy ISO (I no longer have a Nikon):

Select my aperture I want to use, then check my meter to see what shutter speed it would select given the ISO setting at the time.

If I want to go higher with the speed I will turn up the ISO of few notches.

Now, if I found that the ISO had gone up too high, then I opend up my aperture a little and reduced the ISO accordingly.

- Most important (and this is why I can't do this on manual or other modes): shutter speed never ever drops below, say, 200. So shutter shake is no problem. I'd love a programmable auto where I can say "never go below ___ or above ___ on ISO" or "never go below ___ in shutter speed"

That is how it can be done with Auto ISO with most cameras. Nikons are especially handy as they will allow you to specify a fixed minimum shutter spead, or one that is tied to your focal length, which can be very handy with zooms.

. I also would like to exclude f-stops higher than 11 because you can see everything get soft due to diffraction and using f22 or whatever is sort of a specialty case, not for automatic everyday shooting.

For this you put your Nikon into Auto ISO, specifying your slowest shutter speed and highest ISO. Then it is up to you never select an aperture that you judge or understand to be inappropriate. Camera will do the rest.

Am I the only one who'd like this?

I think there are lots of people who want this and also lots who have it.

 

[Bruno E]

You can use Auto-ISO and limit it in the settings to a value you're fine with (e.g. go not beyond ISO 800). That's what I do most of the times and I don't have to care about ISO at all. Or you do it the old way and just fix ISO and let camera control the rest.

 

[thebustos]

Your camera's meter is doing exactly what it is supposed to.

If you think of the exposures brightness on a scale of black to white, the mid point is a shade of gray (18% gray). So if for instance you use spot metering and meter off a black card, the camera will make everything brighter so that black turns to gray. If you use white, it will make everything darker so that the white turns to gray. If you use gray, you'll get a "proper"exposure.

The camera has no way to know that you want the exposure of what you've metered to be brighter or darker on its own. You use exposure compensation to take care of that.

You're probably making things harder by shooting in manual. I would just use aperture (TV) priority with your aperture set to f/8 if that's where you want it. Set your ISO to 100. If your shutter speed is dropping below 1/200 then raise your ISO until it's staying above 1/200. If the camera is metering the scene darker or brighter than you want, use exposure compensation.
--
Good luck and happy shooting!

 

[hdr]

There are many times I'm walking around where shutter speed is who-cares (just the bare minimum to avoid shutter shake, let's say 200). And aperture is mostly-don't-care (would love to be at f8 all day unless forced to open up).

... Let me get this straight ... you don't care what the shutter speed is and you don't care what the f-stop is, but for some reason, you care what the ISO is ?

I got what the OP is getting at because I share his concern. Because of this concern, I set very high ISO by default and occasionally upgrade my camera when a higher max ISO model comes around. High ISO is the best thing invented since cheese.

Why? If you and the OP don't care what the shutter speed is, you can just use base ISO and A mode and accept whatever shutter speed you get.

Yes, we are basically talking about the same idea. Particularly for moving subjects, by setting a high base ISO, everything else is taken care of automatically by the camera, which in turn can only operate well 'at the mercy' of the light ambience at any particular time. Thus the higher the ISO capability (sensor sensitivity), the better the camera will be able to handle even in poor light conditions utilizing the best shutter speed/aperture combination as determined by the camera's internal algorithm.

--
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My favourite 3D-pair site:- http://www.singaporegallery.com

 

[Allan Olesen]

There are many times I'm walking around where shutter speed is who-cares (just the bare minimum to avoid shutter shake, let's say 200). And aperture is mostly-don't-care (would love to be at f8 all day unless forced to open up).

... Let me get this straight ... you don't care what the shutter speed is and you don't care what the f-stop is, but for some reason, you care what the ISO is ?

I got what the OP is getting at because I share his concern. Because of this concern, I set very high ISO by default and occasionally upgrade my camera when a higher max ISO model comes around. High ISO is the best thing invented since cheese.

Why? If you and the OP don't care what the shutter speed is, you can just use base ISO and A mode and accept whatever shutter speed you get.

Yes, we are basically talking about the same idea. Particularly for moving subjects, by setting a high base ISO, everything else is taken care of automatically by the camera,

But why not use base ISO? If you don't care about shutter speed (which I really don't understand, but that is another matter), then there is no need to go to a high ISO.

 

[PalmettoFellow]

I can set the limit for max ISO when in auto ISO, but I can't establish limits for shutter speed or aperture.

I'd like a fully customizable mode where I can set a max and min for each element that affects exposure, and I am referring to the triangle here, so you purists can bugger off.

Once I've got the limits set, I then prioritize them in order or importance. For instance, I'd like to keep the ISO at 100 and aperture at F8 until shutter speed falls to 1/160, then change ISO as needed until ISO 800...at which time, aperture can go to F5.6. If F4 is min aperture, then we go back to changing ISO until I hit 3200. Once there, I get some sort of warning that i've exceeded my goals, like a blinking light in viewfinder, but it then starts affecting shutter speed...like in Program mode.

I know it can get complicated writing out all the rules, so it would take some engineering time creating a good working interface to allow the user to really setup what he wants to occur.

My ideal would be adjust shutter speed as primary exposure adjustment until I reach the threshold for freezing motion, or camera shake...then I move to ISO up to a point, then I start playing with aperture, and finally higher ISO as a last ditch to get the exposure. The aperture is important for DoF, so I'd like to adjust that last, but I'd sacrifice some DoF to keep from having to use my highest ISO settings depending on the scene.