Depth of field math for macro work

Dak on cam

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Ok, so juggling lens equations has become an annoyingly consistent pastime for recent months for me. The main issue being how to wrap my head around what to expect under which conditions.

The easier concept to get a hold of was "background blur". Here the equations amount to "entrance pupil diameter is f/a where f is (actual) focal length and a is aperture number. Place a disk of that size right in the focus plane, and how large it appears there determines the size of blurriness the background receives, or the size of the bokeh circles around distant light sources.

And for macro work, a lot of stuff is "distant", namely a multiple of the focusing distance away.

So what if it isn't distant? If it's close enough that we worry about where the depth of field ends? Then the blur disk is a percentage of the entrance pupil, and the percentage is given by how much of the focusing distance we are away from the focusing plane.

It turns out that if we mark the circumference of a cylinder placed with its axis in the focus plane, the respective blur circle diameters will correspond to equal angles.



f90bbfa7095546d98a10dd12bd0fe413.jpg

So this tried using dioptres of total strength +16 (Marumi +5, Marumi +3, Raynox +8 hello vignetting) telling the camera to focus at +∞ for an actual distance of 62.5mm. We see that the specular highlights indeed more or less touch with the focus on the axis and keep touching (while getting smaller) as we go around. The angular resolution (measured in radians) turns out to be pretty much m/a with m being the magnification factor which is f/d. The EXIF tells us f is 71.5mm here, and d we calculated as 62.5mm, making for m=1.144. So with a=F4.8 we'd expect there to be a*2pi/m bokeh circles to go around that ear ring. Plugging in the numbers gives us 26. Going with the finger nail over its edge makes it feel more like 32 so numbers are not quite correct but in a similar ballpark. If you trace where the paper is sharp (indicating the focus plane) it would appear that we have slight front focus at the specular ring which would suggest that the bokeh disks should overlap a bit more than they do.

Exact numbers aside, what does it tell us? The larger the magnification, the flatter the scene (or the narrower the aperture) needs to be in order to have the same blur appearance. If we shrink a scene by half and compensate by doubling the focal length or halving the distance, the blurriness of scene parts outside of the focus plane will double even if all the relations within the scene stay the same.

Or: macro scene composition is hard. But then you probably knew before juggling numbers.

--
Dak
 
...all those numbers are useless if you don't know how to take images that people want to save to their phones or PCs as wallpaper. So why get lost in it?

1 frame, F11 @ over 2x., un-cropped in post...



BSPxKBc.jpg


Learn how to make the most out of the depth that's available, and learn how the camera "see" light. The math will take care of itself...

--
Also known as Dalantech
My Book: http://nocroppingzone.blogspot.com/2010/01/extreme-macro-art-of-patience.html
My Blog: http://www.extrememacro.com
My gallery: http://www.johnkimbler.com
Macro Tutorials: http://dalantech.deviantart.com/gallery/4122501/Tutorials
Always minimal post processing and no cropping -unless you count the viewfinder... ;)
 
...all those numbers are useless if you don't know how to take images that people want to save to their phones or PCs as wallpaper. So why get lost in it?
Because knowing what to expect helps you plan?
1 frame, F11 @ over 2x., un-cropped in post...

BSPxKBc.jpg


Learn how to make the most out of the depth that's available, and learn how the camera "see" light. The math will take care of itself...
2× on the sensor? You have a sensor that is several wasps across in size? I am impressed.

--
Dak
 
...all those numbers are useless if you don't know how to take images that people want to save to their phones or PCs as wallpaper. So why get lost in it?
Because knowing what to expect helps you plan?
You can't trust the bare data. Lots of things look important on paper that don't really matter when you get some experience.
1 frame, F11 @ over 2x., un-cropped in post...

BSPxKBc.jpg


Learn how to make the most out of the depth that's available, and learn how the camera "see" light. The math will take care of itself...
2× on the sensor? You have a sensor that is several wasps across in size? I am impressed.
I had the MP-E 65mm lens set to over 2x with an APS-C sensor (Canon 80D).

4x for this next image.

[IMG width="400px" alt="Tech Specs: Canon 80D (F11, 1/250, ISO 100) + a Canon MP-E 65mm macro lens (over 4x) + a diffused MT-26EX-RT with a Kaiser adjustable flash shoe on the "A" head (the key), E-TTL metering, -1/3 FEC). This is a single, uncropped, frame taken hand held. In post I used Topaz Denoise AI, Sharpen AI, and Clarity in that order."] Tech Specs: Canon 80D (F11, 1/250, ISO 100) + a Canon MP-E 65mm macro lens (over 4x) + a diffused MT-26EX-RT with a Kaiser adjustable flash shoe on the "A" head (the key), E-TTL metering, -1/3 FEC). This is a single, uncropped, frame taken hand held. In post I used Topaz Denoise AI, Sharpen AI, and Clarity in that order.

--
Also known as Dalantech
My Book: http://nocroppingzone.blogspot.com/2010/01/extreme-macro-art-of-patience.html
My Blog: http://www.extrememacro.com
My gallery: http://www.johnkimbler.com
Macro Tutorials: http://dalantech.deviantart.com/gallery/4122501/Tutorials
Always minimal post processing and no cropping -unless you count the viewfinder... ;)
 
...all those numbers are useless if you don't know how to take images that people want to save to their phones or PCs as wallpaper. So why get lost in it?
Because knowing what to expect helps you plan?
You can't trust the bare data. Lots of things look important on paper that don't really matter when you get some experience.
1 frame, F11 @ over 2x., un-cropped in post...

BSPxKBc.jpg


Learn how to make the most out of the depth that's available, and learn how the camera "see" light. The math will take care of itself...
2× on the sensor? You have a sensor that is several wasps across in size? I am impressed.
I had the MP-E 65mm lens set to over 2x with an APS-C sensor (Canon 80D).
APS-C being 24mm×16mm, meaning that the above corresponds to a scene size of 12mm×8mm in the focus plane. Meaning that the wasp head has a height of maybe 1.5mm.
4x for this next image.

[IMG width="400px" alt="Tech Specs: Canon 80D (F11, 1/250, ISO 100) + a Canon MP-E 65mm macro lens (over 4x) + a diffused MT-26EX-RT with a Kaiser adjustable flash shoe on the "A" head (the key), E-TTL metering, -1/3 FEC). This is a single, uncropped, frame taken hand held. In post I used Topaz Denoise AI, Sharpen AI, and Clarity in that order."] Tech Specs: Canon 80D (F11, 1/250, ISO 100) + a Canon MP-E 65mm macro lens (over 4x) + a diffused MT-26EX-RT with a Kaiser adjustable flash shoe on the "A" head (the key), E-TTL metering, -1/3 FEC). This is a single, uncropped, frame taken hand held. In post I used Topaz Denoise AI, Sharpen AI, and Clarity in that order.
So here the scene size would be 6mm×4mm. Seems like a fairly large insect, but then the amount of facets in the eye suggest as much. At any rate, the depth of focus you get out of those clearly indicate that something in my math still has to be fishy.

--
Dak
 
...all those numbers are useless if you don't know how to take images that people want to save to their phones or PCs as wallpaper. So why get lost in it?
Because knowing what to expect helps you plan?
You can't trust the bare data. Lots of things look important on paper that don't really matter when you get some experience.
1 frame, F11 @ over 2x., un-cropped in post...

BSPxKBc.jpg


Learn how to make the most out of the depth that's available, and learn how the camera "see" light. The math will take care of itself...
2× on the sensor? You have a sensor that is several wasps across in size? I am impressed.
I had the MP-E 65mm lens set to over 2x with an APS-C sensor (Canon 80D).
APS-C being 24mm×16mm, meaning that the above corresponds to a scene size of 12mm×8mm in the focus plane. Meaning that the wasp head has a height of maybe 1.5mm.
It's a Sweat Bee, and that scene is 11.25mm x 7.5mm (actually a little smaller cause I was shooting over 2x). I do not crop my images in post.
4x for this next image.

[IMG width="400px" alt="Tech Specs: Canon 80D (F11, 1/250, ISO 100) + a Canon MP-E 65mm macro lens (over 4x) + a diffused MT-26EX-RT with a Kaiser adjustable flash shoe on the "A" head (the key), E-TTL metering, -1/3 FEC). This is a single, uncropped, frame taken hand held. In post I used Topaz Denoise AI, Sharpen AI, and Clarity in that order."] Tech Specs: Canon 80D (F11, 1/250, ISO 100) + a Canon MP-E 65mm macro lens (over 4x) + a diffused MT-26EX-RT with a Kaiser adjustable flash shoe on the "A" head (the key), E-TTL metering, -1/3 FEC). This is a single, uncropped, frame taken hand held. In post I used Topaz Denoise AI, Sharpen AI, and Clarity in that order.
So here the scene size would be 6mm×4mm. Seems like a fairly large insect, but then the amount of facets in the eye suggest as much. At any rate, the depth of focus you get out of those clearly indicate that something in my math still has to be fishy.
BINGO. Forget the numbers and get some experience actually shooting...

P.S. That last image above is a Swallowtail Butterfly. Here it is at 1x:



D1r0Miw.jpg


Exact same subject. Here's the video of the "studio" I used to photograph it:







--
Also known as Dalantech
My Book: http://nocroppingzone.blogspot.com/2010/01/extreme-macro-art-of-patience.html
My Blog: http://www.extrememacro.com
My gallery: http://www.johnkimbler.com
Macro Tutorials: http://dalantech.deviantart.com/gallery/4122501/Tutorials
Always minimal post processing and no cropping -unless you count the viewfinder... ;)
 

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