Travis G VanDenBerg
Senior Member
between a TFT and CRT monitor? Thanks
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D70 - How to handle the high ISO noise?
- Thread starter micra
- Start date
TFT = flat sceen/monitors
CRT = the "old" monitors with tube
CRT's produce the best pictures but are very expensive. Most of the graphic art people use the CRT monitors.
But the new TFT monitors are better and better. Most of the TFT's produce more picture noise than the CRT's. Sometimes it's difficult to judge which noise will be shown on the the print.
Many users going from CRT to TFT - myself include - are frustrated over the noise issue, but after a while we/they learn to use the monitor.
Overall the TFT in "good quality" (read: high price) are very good.
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Micra
http://www.pbase.com/ibolesen
F
Frank C.
Guest
...sometimes not an option ( shutter speed too sloooow )
noise handled better in RAW
thnk God for that!
Neat Image is as good as it gets
F
Frank C.
Guest
instamatic
Senior Member
You can no longer download ACR for PS 7 I think. The best way to reduce noise in my opinion is to shoot JPG and don't use custom curves that brighten the image.
In your situation, I would use my workflow which is this:
1) RAW to TIFF in Nikon Capture.
2) Open and manipulate TIFF in Photoshop.
3) Save image as JPG in photoshop.
4) Backup / delete TIFF files.
You may also want to look into Photoshop automation and droplets to streamline this process. I also shoot with Fuji S3 and it's TIFF files are roughly 70 megabytes each, so it takes the computer a long time to work with them.
Good Luck,
Przemek
In your situation, I would use my workflow which is this:
1) RAW to TIFF in Nikon Capture.
2) Open and manipulate TIFF in Photoshop.
3) Save image as JPG in photoshop.
4) Backup / delete TIFF files.
You may also want to look into Photoshop automation and droplets to streamline this process. I also shoot with Fuji S3 and it's TIFF files are roughly 70 megabytes each, so it takes the computer a long time to work with them.
Good Luck,
Przemek
Okay thanks ...
I was thining about buing CS 2, and stille use Neat Image as a plugin for CS 2. Then I can use Neat Image in RAW/NEF from there - or can I ?
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Micra
http://www.pbase.com/ibolesen
F
Frank C.
Guest
save some dough and get Nikon Capture instead,
you can treat noise after RAW conversion using
Neat Image. Put that saved cash towards a new
lens or maybe a romantic dinner with your spouse
life is short =)
you can treat noise after RAW conversion using
Neat Image. Put that saved cash towards a new
lens or maybe a romantic dinner with your spouse
life is short =)
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4) Is there any files to backup, when you open in PS directly from NC 4.4?
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Micra
http://www.pbase.com/ibolesen
)
F
Frank C.
Guest
go out with the spouse!
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M
morris
Guest
In PS CS2 I apply NR at RAW converstion with ACR2 and/or with the built in noise filter.
Morris
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http://qcpages.qc.cuny.edu/~morris/POD
Morris
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http://qcpages.qc.cuny.edu/~morris/POD
instamatic
Senior Member
Micra,
I'm not aware that there's anything to delete in this scenario, but I wouldn't recommend opening files from Capture directly into Photoshop using the "Eye/Photoshop button" as this as far as I know cannot be automated in Capture.
I would just start a batch job in Capture to spit out TIFFs, and then create a droplet in Photoshop onto which you can drag and drop your TIFF folder and it would spit out JPGs, with no intervention on your part.
Good Luck,
Przemek
I'm not aware that there's anything to delete in this scenario, but I wouldn't recommend opening files from Capture directly into Photoshop using the "Eye/Photoshop button" as this as far as I know cannot be automated in Capture.
I would just start a batch job in Capture to spit out TIFFs, and then create a droplet in Photoshop onto which you can drag and drop your TIFF folder and it would spit out JPGs, with no intervention on your part.
Good Luck,
Przemek
How much better (ballpark, percentage-wise) is RAW> tif> Neat Image than jpeg> Neat Image? Thanks
Dirtyharry71
Senior Member
and yes correct exposure is important @ ISO1000+
I have some very low-noise ISO1600 pics to prove it
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http://www.hotshots.be
MAA
I have some very low-noise ISO1600 pics to prove it
-
http://www.hotshots.be
MAA
Hi Everyone,
I absolutely agree, two important things to keep in mind are
1. Correct exposure
2. Use NR software
Although I have to say, point 1 above is difficult to achieve.
Most people use HIGH ISO to compensate for low light conditions in the instance where they don't have a tripod handy. I've done it myself, and unfortunately suffered noise.
My question would be, in low light conditions, can we ever achieve something called 'correct exposure' ?
I have'nt tested this, and I might go try it now, but does setting ISO settings shift the exposure bar in the view finder?
Any ideas ??
Thanks
I absolutely agree, two important things to keep in mind are
1. Correct exposure
2. Use NR software
Although I have to say, point 1 above is difficult to achieve.
Most people use HIGH ISO to compensate for low light conditions in the instance where they don't have a tripod handy. I've done it myself, and unfortunately suffered noise.
My question would be, in low light conditions, can we ever achieve something called 'correct exposure' ?
I have'nt tested this, and I might go try it now, but does setting ISO settings shift the exposure bar in the view finder?
Any ideas ??
Thanks
to all who care about noise that much,
go get any cheap Flim SLR camera (doesn't need to be good, or in good shape), get some ISO 800, ISO 1600 and maybe some BW 3200 and 6400 Film (the later needs to be stored cold & dry)...
go out and take your DSLR along.
take the same shots, with both the film camera and the dslr (at the same iso-setting as the film).
take into account nikon's "conservative" metering (read: expose correctly...).
and scan the film images (or have them scanned) as well as printed ...
print the Digital files at the same size... (4x6, or larger if you prefer).
ok, one will be a bit more "color-noise"-like...
but whatever you say, a printed (no noise reduction) ISO 1600 Shot straight out of the D70 looks less "grainy / noisy" then the equivalent ISO 1600 film shot...
I used to take a lot of concert / band shots back a few years... and used a lot of high-speed film...
my D70 does so, quite as well, if sometimes not better.
and if you shoot raw, take the time to do a bit of neat image or whatever, the noise will be, especially printed or downsized almost completely invisible.
go get any cheap Flim SLR camera (doesn't need to be good, or in good shape), get some ISO 800, ISO 1600 and maybe some BW 3200 and 6400 Film (the later needs to be stored cold & dry)...
go out and take your DSLR along.
take the same shots, with both the film camera and the dslr (at the same iso-setting as the film).
take into account nikon's "conservative" metering (read: expose correctly...).
and scan the film images (or have them scanned) as well as printed ...
print the Digital files at the same size... (4x6, or larger if you prefer).
ok, one will be a bit more "color-noise"-like...
but whatever you say, a printed (no noise reduction) ISO 1600 Shot straight out of the D70 looks less "grainy / noisy" then the equivalent ISO 1600 film shot...
I used to take a lot of concert / band shots back a few years... and used a lot of high-speed film...
my D70 does so, quite as well, if sometimes not better.
and if you shoot raw, take the time to do a bit of neat image or whatever, the noise will be, especially printed or downsized almost completely invisible.
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