D100: Settings for better color

Georg Herbet

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I've done quite a lot of experimenting with D100 to get better skin tones. Here's a setting that seems to work well, assuming correct white balance:

Color Mode III at all times.
Hue Adjustment: +6
Tone Comp: A
Image Sharp: Normal

Virtually every D100 pic needs sharpening. Disappointing in comparison with D1X and 1D and 1Ds.

I may keep this camera a bit longer with these settings.
 
Much of your problem seems to stem from your studio lights, which most of us don't seem to have. Also, I can't see why you'd shoot JPEG--a universally known D100 weakness--in anything that demands the least quality.

You seem to have it in for the D100/Nikon--at least from every post I've seen.

Here is a quickie snapshot I took a few hours ago using the D100 and JPEG on full "Auto" everything (just for you ;-) look at PBase for more information and a description I've included:



Brendan
--
If a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, I'm the world's most dangerous man!
 
D100 set to full "P" mode, all settings on "Auto." Flourescent WB. Handheld at 1/30s. High ISO (800 or 1000). JPEG/L/F.



Brendan
--
If a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, I'm the world's most dangerous man!
 
What is the significance of your statement about JPEG being a known weakness in the D100, in light of these fine images shot in Auto everything? I'm pondering the purchase of a D100.

Paul Linder
Great shot.. just curious if it was the AF-S 17-35 f/2.8 or the
AF-S 28-70 f/2.8. thanks, Ross
--
If a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, I'm the world's most
dangerous man!
 
What is the significance of your statement about JPEG being a known
weakness in the D100, in light of these fine images shot in Auto
everything? I'm pondering the purchase of a D100.
Paul,

"Weakness" is a relative term. The D100 is clearly the most conservative when it comes to in-camera processing of JPEG images of any current dSLR on the market. If you're looking for a dSLR that you can just point and shoot, with little or not post processing--ever--then the D100 is decidedly NOT your bird. Many, many of us can produce more than acceptable results right out of the camera under the majority of circumstances once you have become "one" with your camera and have learned how to optimally adjust the settings to suit your tastes. Many use "custom curves" that produce that processed look that many like from the more consumer cameras, while other prefer to do it all in Photoshop after the fact. The D100 retains as much or more of the original information than any other camera out there, but you sometimes have to tinker and become proficient at post-processing to get those "stunning" results.

That said, those two photos I posted were virtually untouched. Literally a total of about 60 seconds of work went into them before I uploaded them to PBase.

Brendan
--
If a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, I'm the world's most dangerous man!
 
D100 set to full "P" mode, all settings on "Auto." Flourescent WB.
Handheld at 1/30s. High ISO (800 or 1000). JPEG/L/F.



Brendan
--
If a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, I'm the world's most
dangerous man!
--
If a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, I'm the world's most dangerous man!
 
Brendan,

I've noticed the same thing! Always how poor his D100 handles any situation even if you present evidence to the contrary.

Ok, enough about him... I'm kind of confused by your statement below also... A universally known D100 weakness? I get very sharp JPG's from the camera and the one below is fairly sharp as well... If you stopped that lens down a bit his other eye would've been a perfect focus as well and your image would've been totally sharp.

I don't know about you but I rather enjoy the camera!

--
http://www.pbase.com/elterrible
 
Brendan,

I've noticed the same thing! Always how poor his D100 handles any
situation even if you present evidence to the contrary.

Ok, enough about him... I'm kind of confused by your statement
below also... A universally known D100 weakness? I get very sharp
JPG's from the camera and the one below is fairly sharp as well...
If you stopped that lens down a bit his other eye would've been a
perfect focus as well and your image would've been totally sharp.

I don't know about you but I rather enjoy the camera!
You're right on all counts. My wife actually took that shot (although I did say "I" in a previous post), but I had set it in "Aperture" mode at f/5.6 for some other shooting and she's clueless on how to technically operate the camera--but she has an artistic eye and good fundamental skills (better than I).

That JPEG "weakness" thing is a very relative term. I do think the D100 doesn't have the ability to produce those really crisp out-of-camera shots that the S2 and D60 can (and probably the D1x), but if I want more I'm happy to take a quick minute and run it through Photoshop. It's only a potential problem for people who take their CF cards right from the camera to a photo printer somewhere without actually doing anything with them--and in that case they should be sticking with a nice P&S cam like the F717 or 5700.

As far as the D100 is concerned, this thing TOTALLY rocks! I'm a know-nothing newbie amateur with bad taste, but I can get the dang thing to work for me. I just can't see why people would rather complain than do a little legwork and fix their problems--because most of them are user-initiated.

Where are you Pete?

Brendan
--
If a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, I'm the world's most dangerous man!
 
Brendan,

I took the liberty of color correcting your "granny" shot. It appeared way too red on my calibrated monitor and I am sure Granny hadn't been walking the beach and forgot her sunscreen, she looks horribly sun burned! A tell tale sign are lips that are the same color as the rest of the face on the skin! Personally I never use any of the auto WB modes, I always find something between 12 and 18% grey to meter a spot on, however it's possible to recover a perfect white balance (without NC3 and NEF's) by using Photoshops eyedropper in the curves tool to rebalance the image if you can't meter a spot at the scene. Here's how I did it with your shot...

First, the histogram of the original shot.



Fig. 1 Looks okay, distributed pretty well so the exposure was more or less fine, except for the peak of data in the deep shadows which we will deal with later.

First thing is to set a better WB, we do this by entering the Curves tool and selecting the middle eyedropper, then we go over the image and pick something that provides (or should have provided) a middle grey tone, for some reason pupils and the whites of the eyes tend to serve as good targets for this. I clicked in Granny's eye with the eyedropper twice before getting the WB as you see it in the final image. (Took literally 5 seconds)



Fig. 2 Photoshop curves tool with "set grey point" eyedropper (center) selected.

Now that the WB is fine, I wanted to redistribute the chroma a bit to effect some saturation in Granny's midtones. There is another trick you can use to find out where Granny's tones are, you first click a point on the curve and then still in eye dropper mode, click over the image, you'll notice as you move the eyedropper over the image a little circle hops up and down the curve showing where the sampled tonal component is on the curve...this is a great way to know exactly where to make your curve adjustments. I did this and decided I wanted to bring out tones in Granny's face and ornamented blouse but not in her already white hair and sweater. I picked points in the curve near the highlights (as determined by the previous trick) so that when I moved the lower portions of the curve the top portion wouldn't budge, this way the highlights would be kept relatively fixed in comparison to the shadows and midtones. (Took about 15 seconds)



Fig. 3 Finished curve, highlights "pinned" with a bump over the shadow/midtone region to bring that chroma out a bit.

Comparing the final histogram to the first, shows that highlights were indeed controlled and shadow and midtone data redistributed. Note in Fig. 4 how that original tall peak in the shadows has now been eroded some what, hopefully gone to contribute to a more vibrant and life like final image.



Fig. 4 Final histogram after curves tool modifications.

I reduced the image you posted by 55% and combined the unedited and my edited version, I then saved them as jpg with quality 10. I didn't do any sharpening as it seemed sharp enough even after the reduction in size and compression.

Before (Left) and After Images:



Fig. 5 Fini!

I don't know about you, but on my monitor Granny on the right looks a lot more natural, she's even got more detail in her face (maybe Granny wouldn't like that part of it..but at least it's more faithful !) no more lobster effect and you can tell where her lips merge into her face! Don't take this as a critique of your original image, I just want to point out that there is so much more that can be done by the photographer outside of playing with the camera settings even when shooting lowly jpeg shots. Thanks for posting !

Regards,
--

 
great idea.. and maybe the original is too red

but your corrected image..... no offense intended.... is way too GREEN on MY CALIBRATED MONITOR....

all that PS7 mumbo jumbo you pontificated about.... made the redo way too green...

IMHO
greg
 
Your color was fine on my monitor the first time around too! The "corrected" image looks very green.
Your image with a little Neat Image for high ISO noise



--
Imagination Rules The World!
--
Imagination Rules The World!
 
Your not alone, mine looks green too. I was already thinking about recalibrating.

Paul Linder
great idea.. and maybe the original is too red
but your corrected image..... no offense intended.... is way too
GREEN on MY CALIBRATED MONITOR....
all that PS7 mumbo jumbo you pontificated about.... made the redo
way too green...

IMHO
greg
 
...maybe it's time to pull out the old spyder...or maybe get a new one? The image seems perfect on my screen.
Paul Linder
great idea.. and maybe the original is too red
but your corrected image..... no offense intended.... is way too
GREEN on MY CALIBRATED MONITOR....
all that PS7 mumbo jumbo you pontificated about.... made the redo
way too green...

IMHO
greg
--

 

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